Fred on wed 22 aug 07
I have seen many vases with fluting from top to bottom and the
space between the flluting marks expands to fit the largest portion
of the vase and reduces in size as the vases narrow at the top and bottom.
How is that accompliised? I have tried it but after fluting the vase and with
it still on the wheel head it torques out of shape when I try to push it out
from the inside.
Lee Love on thu 23 aug 07
On 8/23/07, Hank Murrow wrote:
>
> I have more trouble getting an even cut with the roller than without,
> as I facet while the clay is still on the wheel, opening with a dull
> rib to stretch the marks and get the twist.
Hank, I believe the original question was about opening up the
middle to stretch the facets in the middle without twisting/torquing
the lines. From watching what you do and also talking to Lee
Middleman, it seems that throwing off the wheehead increases the twist
and throwing off the hump reduces them.
Using the hump might help him not twist the lines, along with
a metal rib on the inside.
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
discussion on Beauty:
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
Lee Love on thu 23 aug 07
On 8/22/07, Fred wrote:
> I have seen many vases with fluting from top to bottom and the
> space between the flluting marks expands to fit the largest portion
> of the vase and reduces in size as the vases narrow at the top and bottom.
> How is that accompliised? I have tried it but after fluting the vase and with
> it still on the wheel head it torques out of shape when I try to push it out
> from the inside.
If you do it on a tall hump, the hump takes some of the
torque and you get less showing in the body of the pot. Use a
stainless rib on the inside for less friction. Hank used a flat
ended rib to make more friction/torque to make more of a spiral.
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
discussion on Beauty:
http://journals.fotki.com/togeika/beauty/
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
Hank Murrow on thu 23 aug 07
On Aug 23, 2007, at 7:38 AM, Lee Love wrote:
> On 8/22/07, Fred wrote:
>> I have seen many vases with fluting from top to bottom and the
>> space between the flluting marks expands to fit the largest portion
>> of the vase and reduces in size as the vases narrow at the top and
>> bottom.
>> How is that accompliised? I have tried it but after fluting the
>> vase and with
>> it still on the wheel head it torques out of shape when I try to
>> push it out
>> from the inside.
>
> If you do it on a tall hump, the hump takes some of the
> torque and you get less showing in the body of the pot. Use a
> stainless rib on the inside for less friction. Hank used a flat
> ended rib to make more friction/torque to make more of a spiral.
>
> --
> Lee in Minneapolis,
Dear Fred;
I don't know if this will help, but you can see a tutorial on the way
I soft-facet at http://www.murrow.biz/hank/tutorials.htm
As you will see, there is also a tutorial on roller trimming.
Hope there is something there that is helpful to you.
Cheers! Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
Taylor Hendrix on thu 23 aug 07
Fred,
I have seen some examples of fluting tools in a book (can't think of
the one) and an example like you describe. It was fluted at the
leather hard stage and the potter used different sized fluting tools
to accomodate the wide and narrow parts. Looked like a bit more work
that I was willing to put into it. Anyway, another take on a method
for you.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 8/22/07, Fred wrote:
> I have seen many vases with fluting from top to bottom and the
> space between the flluting marks expands to fit the largest portion
> of the vase and reduces in size as the vases narrow at the top and bottom.
> How is that accompliised? I have tried it but after fluting the vase and with
> it still on the wheel head it torques out of shape when I try to push it out
> from the inside.
Veena Raghavan on thu 23 aug 07
Hi Fred,
Maybe this suggestion has already been posted, but if you flute a cylinder,
while it is still attached to the wheel and is still soft enough to form by
throwing, you can make your flutes, and then expand the pot from the inside by
throwing, leaving the bottom alone, and expanding the middle. This will make the
flutes wider in the middle, while they stay narrow at the top and bottom.You
can then shape your lip above the fluting. hope this helps.
Veena
In a message dated 8/23/2007 1:32:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hmurrow@EFN.ORG writes:
> >On 8/22/07, Fred wrote:
> >>I have seen many vases with fluting from top to bottom and the
> >>space between the flluting marks expands to fit the largest portion
> >>of the vase and reduces in size as the vases narrow at the top and
> >>bottom.
> >>How is that accompliised? I have tried it but after fluting the
> >>vase and with
> >>it still on the wheel head it torques out of shape when I try to
> >>push it out
> >>from the inside.
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
Hank Murrow on thu 23 aug 07
On Aug 23, 2007, at 3:18 PM, Tony wrote:
> Saw a demonstration recently where a wire cheese slice with a
> roller was
> used to flute the outside of a pot. The roller runs against the
> body which
> ensures even facets are cut. Wire is held in by 2 screws, so Hank's
> idea
> using twisted wire could replace the original single wire.
>
> have bought the cheese slice from the $2 shop but have yet to try
> it myself.
Dear Tony;
I have more trouble getting an even cut with the roller than without,
as I facet while the clay is still on the wheel, opening with a dull
rib to stretch the marks and get the twist.
However, I hope you will report back on your experiences with the
cheese slicer.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
McDonough James on fri 24 aug 07
If you would like to expand the pot once the fluting lines are made
on the tall wet cylinder, but not twist the lines, you might try
reversing the direction of the wheel as the twist starts to appear.
This straightens the lines or allows an "s" twist as the tall
cylinder expands and gets shorter. If you are not throwing off the
hump leaving a unfluted inch or two at the rim and at the base makes
the process go a little easier.
Vertically compressing the tall cylinder into a hexigon before
fluting allows the flutes to remove clay from the tips of the
hexigon. This is accomplished with an upward sweep of a soft rib
repeated as you turn the cylinder 1/6 of a turn. It takes a half
dozen swipes. This allows deeper flutes without compromising the
thickness of the cylinder wall.
Jim
Jim McDonough
jmmcdonough@bellsouth.net
jmcdonough@avlplasticsurgery.com
5 Livingston Street
Asheville, NC 28801
On Aug 23, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> On 8/23/07, Hank Murrow wrote:
>>
>> I have more trouble getting an even cut with the roller than without,
>> as I facet while the clay is still on the wheel, opening with a dull
>> rib to stretch the marks and get the twist.
>
> Hank, I believe the original question was about opening up the
> middle to stretch the facets in the middle without twisting/torquing
> the lines. From watching what you do and also talking to Lee
> Middleman, it seems that throwing off the wheehead increases the twist
> and throwing off the hump reduces them.
>
> Using the hump might help him not twist the lines, along with
> a metal rib on the inside.
>
> --
> Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
> discussion on Beauty:
>
> "For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
> common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
> --Paolo Soleri
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
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Tony on fri 24 aug 07
Saw a demonstration recently where a wire cheese slice with a roller was
used to flute the outside of a pot. The roller runs against the body which
ensures even facets are cut. Wire is held in by 2 screws, so Hank's idea
using twisted wire could replace the original single wire.
have bought the cheese slice from the $2 shop but have yet to try it myself.
> On 8/22/07, Fred wrote:
> > I have seen many vases with fluting from top to bottom and the
> > space between the flluting marks expands to fit the largest portion
> > of the vase and reduces in size as the vases narrow at the top and
bottom.
> > How is that accompliised? I have tried it but after fluting the vase and
with
> > it still on the wheel head it torques out of shape when I try to push it
out
> > from the inside.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
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