Duff bogen on thu 23 aug 07
All the references I've seen have been re-hashing the "rules of thumb" from B.L.'s Potter's Book. These were based on massive hard brick kilns. Has anyone done research on sizing stacks for IFB kilns?
A friend followed the reasonning "Hard brick kilns need a lot of BTU's => a lot of fuel => a lot of air => alot of chimney but IFB kilkns need less BTU's less fuel=> less air => less chimney. Following this logic he built his chimney only as high as the top of the arch. "I fired this kiln several times and it was as normal as could be."
As this worked should this be the new rule of thumb for IFB kiln chimnies
Duff
Hank Murrow wrote:
On Aug 16, 2007, at 1:50 PM, Pat Lindemann wrote:
> So I am following Nils Lou's book "The Art of Firing" and building
> a chimney
> for my 45 cu. ft catenary arch kiln. My question is this- is it
> common
> practice to lay the bricks dry and then mortar over the outside of the
> chimney? That is what I see being done in this book, but am
> wondering if
> that makes the chimney air-tight enough. I looked at a couple of
> other
> sites online with people building kilns and some seem to mortar
> each brick,
> and some not- what is best?
Dear Pat;
A brick chimney swells and contracts with each firing; so joints open
up, and cold air can reduce useful draft. I suggest mortaring the
bricks, and additionally sheathing the flue with some heatproof
cladding tied at the corners with angle iron. You can use banding to
pull it all together...... like lumber is banded in the building yard.
The idea is to have a chimney that does not leak gases....... and
thus preserving draft.
Cheers, Hank
www.murrow.biz/hank
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Gordon Ward on thu 23 aug 07
Geil Kilns are constructed this way and seem to have adequate draft.
On Aug 23, 2007, at 12:28 PM, Duff bogen wrote:
> Following this logic he built his chimney only as high as the top
> of the arch. "I fired this kiln several times and it was as normal
> as could be."
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