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asheville, nc (long)

updated fri 7 sep 07

 

Fred Parker on thu 6 sep 07


We just returned from an incredible weekend in Asheville, NC. I want to
thank everyone who sent suggestions re what to do and see if I have not
already replied directly. I received many suggestions from Clayart folks =96=

so many I simply could not reply to all of them. But whether I did or
not, THANK YOU for helping us set a wonderful agenda.

To anyone who has never visited Asheville: try your best to do it! It=92s a=

medium/small city in the NC mountains on the banks of the (I am not
kidding) French Broad River. Asheville is one of the best examples I have
ever seen of the fact that =93art sells=94 and is good for a local economy.
We visited some incredible galleries. The town is FULL of them AND most
are really good.

Pottery is everywhere. As most everybody knows Asheville is home to
Highwater Clays (literally on the bank of the French Broad). We felt it
necessary to stop there first to leave a healthy wad of cash with them.
What a fantasy land! Clays, glaze ingredients, tools, books =96 everything
you can imagine to compete for next week=92s lunch money.

Something about the spirit of the town reminded me of New Orleans, but
without the high crime and grime. There are sidewalk restaurants
everywhere; lots of generally well behaved people mellowing out with a
glass of wine at a sidewalk table within earshot of a blues band a couple
of doors down; galleries open after dark; fantastic mountain weather. If
you happen to be one of those politically incorrect types who still savors
a stogie now and then, there are many unapologetic cigar/tobacco shops =96
presumably left over from the days when NC was a major tobacco producer.

The best meal/dining experience we had was at a little =93French comfort
food=94 restaurant called =93Bouchon=94 where we had some great food served =
up
with just the right amount of service in the kind of small, intimate
atmosphere little French restaurants are supposed to be. Of course we
drank far too much wine and then added some of the richest chocolate I
have ever had at dessert time. Then I discovered something on the dessert
menu called a =93chocolate martini=94 =96 and it came in both a dark Godiva =
and
a white Godiva version so we had both.

If you like a laid-back lunch outdoors a little place called =93European
Bistro=94 is really good. We were so relaxed that we both decided we might
just relocate to Asheville =96 and that was without alcohol.

The worst dining experience we had was at =93Caf=E9 on the Square=94 just up=
the
hill from Blue Spiral Gallery. Summing up it was a mediocre, uninspired
food served at a bad table with incredibly bad service. It=92s all
concealed behind the ferny trappings of an attractive restaurant in a
prime location. Caveat emptor=85

If you go don=92t miss the UNC-Asheville campus. They have a considerable
ceramics program and although only a sprinkling of students was there
(during the Labor Day weekend) it=92s worth a visit just to see the kilns --=

something like three or four big gas reduction kilns plus a 20-25 foot-
long anagama.

Then there=92s the River Arts District with studios, galleries, workshops
etc.; Biltmore Village (near the Biltmore mansion) with New Morning
Gallery stuffed with pottery, glass, wood, metal; Arial Gallery downtown
(artists coop) with some of everything. We spent a wonderful hour
imposing on the generosity of Eilene and Marty Black of The Potter=92s Mark
in their studio in the River Arts District.

We hit five or six galleries in the two days we were there. The gallery
guide lists 30 galleries, and it does not include all of them. We only
barely scratched the surface. We didn=92t even get to all the points on our=

Clayart list of recommendations.

I realize this is a bit long for a posting, but I wanted to get it into
the archives in case anybody is planning a trip. Every artist should
visit.

Fred Parker
www.baitpondpottery.com