Bill Merrill on tue 25 sep 07
I make large platters on plaster bats. I use a large rake tooth from a
windrow maker, cut off the end that has a curly cue shape and stretch a
piano wire across from one side to the other. I leave the clay thicker
in the center, cut off the platter after throwing and then let the
platter set until fairly stiff. I always cover the outside lip of the
platter so the interior stiffens up. I don't allow the lip to dry
first. Platters and plates curl up from the lip. In drying after
trimming the center of the foot ring can touch the underneath of bat.
Check with a straight edge from one side of the foot to the other when
trimming out the interior of the foot. I use a Randall wheel which
allows me to put a bat in the center of the platter and flip it over for
trimming. The lip is low so it acts as a pole like a wire walker in a
circus. The lip area never touches a wheel head or bat and I can feel
the wall thickness up to the foot, I then put a piece of plywood with
finger holes in it to flip the platter. The lip rarely warps and if it
does it seems to just have a rare moment of nonchalance. Just keep in
mind if you are using very plastic clay to expect the rim to move upward
and the interior of the foot to move down when drying.
=20
Bill Merrill
=20
billm@pcadmin.ctc.edu
=20
=20
Fred Parker on wed 26 sep 07
Many thanks, Bill. I'm relatively new to plate making and, as you have
pointed out very well, there is more to it that simple shaping on the
wheel. I'll work on the drying process.
Thanks again,
Fred Parker
On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 16:16:10 -0700, Bill Merrill
wrote:
>I make large platters on plaster bats. I use a large rake tooth from a
>windrow maker, cut off the end that has a curly cue shape and stretch a
>piano wire across from one side to the other. I leave the clay thicker
>in the center, cut off the platter after throwing and then let the
>platter set until fairly stiff. I always cover the outside lip of the
>platter so the interior stiffens up. I don't allow the lip to dry
>first. Platters and plates curl up from the lip. In drying after
>trimming the center of the foot ring can touch the underneath of bat.
>Check with a straight edge from one side of the foot to the other when
>trimming out the interior of the foot. I use a Randall wheel which
>allows me to put a bat in the center of the platter and flip it over for
>trimming. The lip is low so it acts as a pole like a wire walker in a
>circus. The lip area never touches a wheel head or bat and I can feel
>the wall thickness up to the foot, I then put a piece of plywood with
>finger holes in it to flip the platter. The lip rarely warps and if it
>does it seems to just have a rare moment of nonchalance. Just keep in
>mind if you are using very plastic clay to expect the rim to move upward
>and the interior of the foot to move down when drying.
>
>
>
>Bill Merrill
>
>
>
>billm@pcadmin.ctc.edu
>
>
>
>
>
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