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excessive carbon buildup on olympic raku 18 kiln

updated wed 3 oct 07

 

Carlee Weston on mon 1 oct 07


I recently purchased Olympic's gas (propane) Raku 18 kiln with thermocouple. I had the gas company hook it up (twice according to Olympic's written and then oral instructions). It was an expensive experience.

I have been able to fire and get desirable results. However, if carbon build-up is an indication of inadequately burned fuel, then I have the Queen of Inefficiency. Before each firing I have to scrape the carbon (apx 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick) off the bottom of the kiln and gas pipe or the kiln won't ignite.

When I first queried Olympic I was told that I would have blue flame when the kiln reached red hot. On subsequent query, I was told that the Olympic kilns never burn with a blue flame.

If I open the pilot airflow port, I get back burn so once the burners are lit, I have to close the pilot airflow.

Has anyone else expereinced these problems and what were your solutions?

Carlee Weston
Lighthouse Bay Pottery
Stuart, FL

Rob Haugen on tue 2 oct 07


Carlee,
You have too much gas entering the pilot bar and not enough primary air.
Open the shutter plate all the way and turn the needle valve that controls
the gas to the pilot down. This should solve the back-burn issue. You need
just enough flame on the pilot bar to keep the thermocouple hot.

Rob Haugen
Olympic Kilns
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carlee Weston"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:24 PM
Subject: Excessive Carbon Buildup on Olympic Raku 18 Kiln


>I recently purchased Olympic's gas (propane) Raku 18 kiln with
>thermocouple. I had the gas company hook it up (twice according to
>Olympic's written and then oral instructions). It was an expensive
>experience.
>
> I have been able to fire and get desirable results. However, if carbon
> build-up is an indication of inadequately burned fuel, then I have the
> Queen of Inefficiency. Before each firing I have to scrape the carbon
> (apx 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick) off the bottom of the kiln and gas pipe or the
> kiln won't ignite.
>
> When I first queried Olympic I was told that I would have blue flame when
> the kiln reached red hot. On subsequent query, I was told that the
> Olympic kilns never burn with a blue flame.
>
> If I open the pilot airflow port, I get back burn so once the burners are
> lit, I have to close the pilot airflow.
>
> Has anyone else expereinced these problems and what were your solutions?
>
> Carlee Weston
> Lighthouse Bay Pottery
> Stuart, FL
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
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> melpots2@visi.com
>

William & Susan Schran User on tue 2 oct 07


On 10/1/07 6:24 PM, "Carlee Weston" wrote:

> I recently purchased Olympic's gas (propane) Raku 18 kiln with thermocouple.
> I had the gas company hook it up (twice according to Olympic's written and
> then oral instructions). It was an expensive experience.
> I have been able to fire and get desirable results. However, if carbon
> build-up is an indication of inadequately burned fuel, then I have the Queen
> of Inefficiency. Before each firing I have to scrape the carbon (apx 1/4 to
> 1/2 inch thick) off the bottom of the kiln and gas pipe or the kiln won't
> ignite.
> Has anyone else expereinced these problems and what were your solutions?

When I got my Olympic 2327, I bought it used and the bottom was covered in
carbon, the guy had fired it only 3 times.

I tried firing with manufacturer's original equipment and gave up after 2
miserable firings.

With a little experience of having fired a few types of gas kilns
previously, some help from members of this forum and a bit of "well, let's
give this a try", I ended up replacing the burners (that kept back-burning)
with Venturi burners, removing the burner tube and replacing the
pilot/thermocouple with equipment from Marc Ward.

Now, no more carbon and the kiln fires well, even with 1/2# or less propane
gas pressure.

Check what I did on my web site listed below.

Bill


--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com

Bear Creek Pottery on tue 2 oct 07


I to had one of the Olympic 2827 which was used, Installed this per the
directions and many calls to the factory and ended up with the same result
as you. The burners are just that come on the Olympic kilns are just pipe
burners. I think I could have come up with this same type of burner with a
trip to Home Depot and a few minutes in my garage. However I replaced them
with Venturi burners and that is where a second mistake on my part took
place. One of my wholesalers carried the venturi burners so I bought them to
save a buck. NOW, If I only give one piece of advice, Call Marc Ward at
Ward Burners http://www.wardburner.com/ This man is the one to know when it
comes to burners. Well after making that last mistake I decided to just get
rid of the Olympic and prepare for a New Geil Kiln.

Also visit Bill website, http://www.creativecreekartisans.com , I will
tell you if I had the advice and products from Marc Ward and the
instructions from Bill, things would have gone so smooth. Bookmark his
site. It is a wealth of Knowledge!!!

Rob Kobus
Bear Creek Pottery



-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of William & Susan
Schran User
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 1:33 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Excessive Carbon Buildup on Olympic Raku 18 Kiln

On 10/1/07 6:24 PM, "Carlee Weston" wrote:

> I recently purchased Olympic's gas (propane) Raku 18 kiln with
thermocouple.
> I had the gas company hook it up (twice according to Olympic's written and
> then oral instructions). It was an expensive experience.
> I have been able to fire and get desirable results. However, if carbon
> build-up is an indication of inadequately burned fuel, then I have the
Queen
> of Inefficiency. Before each firing I have to scrape the carbon (apx 1/4
to
> 1/2 inch thick) off the bottom of the kiln and gas pipe or the kiln won't
> ignite.
> Has anyone else expereinced these problems and what were your solutions?

When I got my Olympic 2327, I bought it used and the bottom was covered in
carbon, the guy had fired it only 3 times.

I tried firing with manufacturer's original equipment and gave up after 2
miserable firings.

With a little experience of having fired a few types of gas kilns
previously, some help from members of this forum and a bit of "well, let's
give this a try", I ended up replacing the burners (that kept back-burning)
with Venturi burners, removing the burner tube and replacing the
pilot/thermocouple with equipment from Marc Ward.

Now, no more carbon and the kiln fires well, even with 1/2# or less propane
gas pressure.

Check what I did on my web site listed below.

Bill


--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com

____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com