Logan Johnson on mon 8 oct 07
Hi Annette,
The best potters wheel for a beginner I can recommend is the one you're using where you take your lessons. You didn't say how long you've been throwing or if you're even in a class. Getting a wheel isn't the only thing you need to throw pottery. Even if you have or plan to get a kiln. The most important thing/tool you need is education.
Please don't make the same mistake a clay enthusiast down the street from me has made. He didn't get the basic education needed to run a studio safely & the man is an accident waiting to happen. He almost burned down his rental house the first time he fired his kiln. He has no concept of studio safety as far as chemicals, fumes during firings or even how to deal with clay dust. He doesn't even know these things are real issues. Not to mention most of what he makes doesn't "work out, " things break or crack during drying , glazes aren't doing what he thought they would ect. My neighbor thought he could just get a wheel & kiln & teach himself "how to do pottery" The man makes me nervous just listening to him.
I can't begin to tell you how many people have come into my little shop asking me if I buy used wheels. They got the wheel or inherited it thinking they would learn to
"do pottery". After a very short time life started getting in the way of the best of intentions & the next thing they knew after a few years they were in my shop asking if I wanted to buy that wheel.
Take classes if you can. Look around & learn what's needed to operate a studio furniture, tools, supplies. ask about wiring & materials safety precautions. Let the teacher know your plans to set up your own studio so he/she can hopefully guide you to the information you need to know. Save all the money you can for these things. (you're going to need it !) Don't forget about the Clayart archives. I may be wrong but it sure seems to me that there's more knowledge there than one teacher could possibly have in one lifetime. It's not a substitute for a real teacher but it sure is the best teachers aide I can think of. Hope this helps.
Good Luck !
Logan
Annette Libby wrote: Hi everyone,I'm just starting to throw and would like to know which Potter's
Wheel any of who could recommend for a beginner? Thanks! Annette Libby.
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Logan Johnson
Yakima Valley Pottery & Supply
719 w. Nob Hill blvd.
Yakima Wa. 98902
(509) 469-6966
www.yakimavalleypottery.net
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Annette Libby on mon 8 oct 07
Hi everyone,I'm just starting to throw and would like to know which Potter's
Wheel any of who could recommend for a beginner? Thanks! Annette Libby.
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John Rodgers on tue 9 oct 07
Annette.
From my perspective, I'm not sure there is such a thing as a
"beginner's " potter's wheel. Potter's Wheel's generally last a very
long time due to the nature of their construction, so they don't
typically just wear out to the point the you replace them, and at that
time get a more "professional" wheel. You are going to have a learning
curve in your clay work, and a wheel is going to see you through many
stages. Therefore, it is best to get a good quality wheel from the
outset, because once you have spent your money, you are stuck with that
wheel for a long time - adequate for your growth needs or not. So my
view is to spend the money and get a high quality machine from the
outset. I did, and I am sure glad I did. Years ago, when I first started
throwing, I bought a Brent CXC wheel, the biggest and most powerful
machine Brent makes. I have worked that machine to death, but it still
runs like a clock, and it has seen me through the many stages of my
growth as a potter. There are a number of Brand names that are good.
Brent, Shimpo, Axner (their own brand - but they also sell others), and
others. Over time - in addition to the basic machine - I have found
splash pan design and convenience to be of significant importance, and
the design and function of the foot pedal. And especially the foot
pedal. It is one of the reasons I chose the Brent at the time. The foot
control is so smooth, and the wheel would start smoothly and accelerate
smoothly, as well as run at extremely low RPM very smoothly - no
jumping. This is really important for control when throwing, and for
trimming and carving. My CXC foot pedal is assembled from two pieces of
heavy duty cast aluminum for strength and durability. Many foot pedals
are made from stamped steel, and they have problems the way they are
assembled. Power feed to the wheel is not smooth. So pedal is important.
Probably not what you wanted to read about, but there it is - my view.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Where I'm getting ready for a little art show at Heardmont Park near
Indian Springs in Pelham, AL
Annette Libby wrote:
> Hi everyone,I'm just starting to throw and would like to know which Potter's
> Wheel any of who could recommend for a beginner? Thanks! Annette Libby.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
Lee Love on tue 9 oct 07
I think it is best to learn on a kick wheel. That way, you avoid
learning many bad habits enabled by an electric wheel. I learned on
Lockerbies.
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
"We are not afraid to entrust the American people with unpleasant
facts, foreign ideas, alien philosophies, and competitive values. For
a nation that is afraid to let its people judge the truth and
falsehood in an open market is a nation that is afraid of its people."
--JFK
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
John Post on tue 9 oct 07
When I hear the question about what's a good (fill in the blank) for
beginners I always translate it as
"What's a decent tool that won't cost the most money but still be
adequate for the job".
I had a top of the line Shimpo with the big table. It was a nice wheel
but then I ordered one of the Bailey ST wheels and found that I
preferred it because it lets me sit closer to the clay. I sold the big
Shimpo. It was a great wheel, but the Bailey is smaller, easier to take
with me for demonstrations and great if I want to teach kids who aren't
too big.
Brent also has a nice new wheel (Brent ie) that is around 550 bucks on
Bailey's website. It doesn't have the biggest motor but it is smooth,
quiet, easy to move and dependable. I usually don't throw more than 10#
at a time with most things being considerably less. All that power of a
big motor is great if you're going to make big pots, but if you are
making bowls, plates and cups either of these wheels will work great.
If you were to get either one of these wheels you wouldn't be shooting
yourself in the foot. They both work well and are the two wheels I have
in my studio now. Either one of these wheels will do the job and be
less than $600.
Remember what mel our moderator says. Get a wheel and kiln at the same
time.
John Post
Sterling Heights, Michigan
Larry Kruzan on wed 10 oct 07
Hi Annette,
The best answer is also the answer that does not really answer your question
directly, but will help you find what works for you. Stay with for a couple
minutes and I'll take a stab at it.
The best wheel is the wheel you will use. Early in my adventure with clay I
asked one of my ceramics professors how long it takes to get to the point
where the object visualized in my mind can truly be formed on the wheel -
his answer - 6000 lbs of clay. As I sat there aghast at the weight of his
statement (pun intended) he continued that by the time I had made pottery
from 6000 lbs of clay that my hands and mind would be united and work with
the clay as a team.
Today, five years later, I throw 2000 to 2500 lbs of clay per month and own
a thriving pottery. As much as I needed and greatly respect the teachers I
had along the path to where I am it was clay itself that proved to be the
best teacher. Professors can teach concept, esthetics, art history and the
science of ceramics but only clay spinning on the wheel can teach the hands
and mind the reflexes and millions of small movements required to make a
pot. Color to the blind if you try to really explain it - you have to do it
to fully understand.
So, if you have hung in here this long let me get to my point. Today most
wheels are reliable and are comparable in design and function. That is that
they all have a spinning surface and most have a motor to power them. Most
have a tripod base with one in front, two in the rear. There are some
exceptions to any of this but I am just covering the majority not the
minority. Some have the ability to reverse the direction of rotation - I'd
love to see a pole about how many have tried this switch position - most
these days have electronic controllers.
Wheel head size can be an important consideration and most have 12-14"
heads. In my studio I have two brands of wheels, Bailey and Brent. Because
the wheel heads are different sizes things like Giffen Grips do not
interchange without adjustments. So if you plan to someday have more than
one wheel (very handy) choose wisely.
My Baileys (three) all have a fixed splash pan whereas the Brent wheels
(two) splash pans are removable. I purchased the extension tables and
wareboard supports with my newest two Bailey wheels and think they are an
awesome addition. Turns any good wheel into a real workstation with
everything at your fingertips.
Like so much today service is sometimes more important than the product. I
have had opportunity to call both Bailey and Brent about certain items and
for service. Both have responded politely and quickly to my calls. Bailey
solved the issue in minutes with an unexpected follow up call from the head
man himself.
Brent has not solved the issue after repeated contacts and promises - but I
was informed that if I wanted to pay an additional $140 they would build me
an old style controller to replace the crappy electronic one in a brand new
wheel that is under warranty. If that does NOT make sense to you don't feel
alone. They did tell me that they knew they had a problem and were working
to solve it - that was six months ago and I still have a $1000 wheel that is
unusable - any takers?????
At school we had a mixed bag of wheels, Soldner, Bailey, Brent, Shimpo and a
few so old they were built before names became important. Most were very
tired and way past their prime but they were still used every day to make
beautiful pots. As long as the wheel is comfortable to work at and has
enough power to turn the clay it can be used to make pots. We care about
which wheel we use because the wheel provides us that interface with the
clay but just as nobody today really cares what brand of brushes Piccasso
used to make his masterpieces, nobody will care about your wheel.
It is the clay, the hands, the mind all working in seamless harmony that is
important. When they unite magic happens.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Annette Libby
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 1:54 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: [CLAYART] What's a good Potter's Wheel for Beginners?
Hi everyone,I'm just starting to throw and would like to know which
Potter's
Wheel any of who could recommend for a beginner? Thanks! Annette Libby.
************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
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