Meg Smeal on fri 19 oct 07
I had this same problem as well UNTIL I fired the decals at a very low
temperature - I put my laser decal on a fired clear cone 10 glaze (over
porcelain) - then refired to cone 04 with beautiful results as the glaze had softened
just enough (even at that low a temperature) to accept the iron but not
bleach it out - try it - also worked on a cone 10 chun glaze...
Meg
www.megsmealpottery.blogspot.com
In a message dated 10/19/2007 12:08:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
LISTSERV@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG writes:
This sounds like the same problem we ran into with iron toner laser
decals. The glaze is bleaching out the red iron oxide to an almost
colorless yellow.
I never found a clear glaze that would not do that.
Maybe you could use a mason stain instead of iron oxide and find it
would not bleach.
Fred Paget
************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
Fredrick Paget on fri 19 oct 07
>I had this same problem as well UNTIL I fired the decals at a very low
>temperature - I put my laser decal on a fired clear cone 10 glaze (over
>porcelain) - then refired to cone 04 with beautiful results as the
>glaze had softened
>just enough (even at that low a temperature) to accept the iron but not
>bleach it out - try it - also worked on a cone 10 chun glaze...
>
>Meg
>www.megsmealpottery.blogspot.com
>
>In a message dated 10/19/2007 12:08:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>LISTSERV@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG writes:
>
>This sounds like the same problem we ran into with iron toner laser
>decals. The glaze is bleaching out the red iron oxide to an almost
>colorless yellow.
>I never found a clear glaze that would not do that.
>Maybe you could use a mason stain instead of iron oxide and find it
>would not bleach.
>Fred Paget
>
Meg:
I was a bit obscure in that post. What I should have said was that
if a clear glaze was applied over the iron image and fired in a
second firing. Then the bleaching occurs.
As John Sankey says in his post:
"This is just a guess, but I suspect that your red iron oxide
Fe2O3 is being converted to FeO during firing and is a light
transparent yellow when it then combines with the silica in your
clear glaze. My results with iron glazes suggest that to get a
red from iron, it has to be on the outside surface.
http://sankey.ws/glazeiron.html"
Fred Paget
--
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
John Sankey on sat 20 oct 07
MSmeal@AOL.COM wrote:
"I had this same problem as well UNTIL I fired the decals at a very low
temperature - I put my laser decal on a fired clear cone 10 glaze (over
porcelain) - then refired to cone 04 with beautiful results as the glaze had softened
just enough (even at that low a temperature) to accept the iron but not
bleach it out - try it - also worked on a cone 10 chun glaze..."
Meg, I think you did two things:
- first you put the iron on the surface so it could stay Fe2O3;
my work indicates that iron below the surface all turns to FeO
which usually becomes FeO.SiO2, a pale yellow;
- second, you kept the temperature low enough that FeO didn't
form even on the surface. (My work and that of Carol Marians
suggests that about 950C is best for this.)
See http://sankey.ws/glazeiron.html for details.
My question: where do you get the iron laser toner you mention?
John
--
Include 'Byrd' in the subject line of your reply
to get through my spam filter.
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