Taylor Hendrix on sat 13 oct 07
Howdy my brothers and sisters,
I have an update to my banding wheel/turntable adventure.
Because I'm doing a bunch of bowl beating lately, I decided that I
needed a turntable or two on my bench top where I could work on two or
more bowls at the same time. You all know that I have discovered that
bar stool bearings are too stiff to work for that and that I'm too
cheap to buy myself a $100+ shimpo.
I decided that the need was so great, scavenging the bearings from my
never-completed-kick wheel was necessary. So I took the few feet to 1
inch cold rolled steel, a pillow block bearing and a flanged bearing
over to my work bench and attached them to the 2by4 framing. Now the
steel shaft comes up through the top of the work bench and supports a
plywood wheel head several inches thick. It is pretty rock solid so
spanking bowls won't be a problem.
However! These bearings turn freely but not as freely as I would like.
They don't run all day as Mel put it, but quickly lose momentum after
about 5 seconds or so. I got these bearings from Purvis (Faffner) and
they should be good quality. They have grease fittings and I think I
shot some grease into them last night, but it didn't seem to loosen
them up much if at all. Anybody have any ideas?
This won't upset my bowl spanking I don't think, but I would like to
have this double as a banding station.
As soon as M returns with the camera, pictures forthwith.
fruit loops,
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sat 13 oct 07
Hi Taylor,
For doing it this way, you need to get some 'old' wel used, decomissioned
Flange Bearings, or ditto larger Ball Bearings you can mount in something,
which are high HIGH miliage already, or in effect, worn out for more precise
applications. So long as they are not damages or rusty, they will spin
wonderfully in your application with merely some light Oil and protection
from Clay Dusts.
Any new large Ball bearings will be too stiff to 'coast' in this context of
hand turning a small flywheel n a shaft they hold.
Why not drill out the center Nut or rivet of the 'Bar Stool' turn-table
ones, which had seen a lot of use already, and simply remove the Nylon or
other friction material, and re-assemble with a minimum of tension, so they
will coast?
Use a light oil and not 'grease', since grease itself will prevent them from
behaving as you want them to...it will act like a 'brake'.
Have fun...!
Phil
l v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
> Howdy my brothers and sisters,
>
> I have an update to my banding wheel/turntable adventure.
>
> Because I'm doing a bunch of bowl beating lately, I decided that I
> needed a turntable or two on my bench top where I could work on two or
> more bowls at the same time. You all know that I have discovered that
> bar stool bearings are too stiff to work for that and that I'm too
> cheap to buy myself a $100+ shimpo.
>
> I decided that the need was so great, scavenging the bearings from my
> never-completed-kick wheel was necessary. So I took the few feet to 1
> inch cold rolled steel, a pillow block bearing and a flanged bearing
> over to my work bench and attached them to the 2by4 framing. Now the
> steel shaft comes up through the top of the work bench and supports a
> plywood wheel head several inches thick. It is pretty rock solid so
> spanking bowls won't be a problem.
>
> However! These bearings turn freely but not as freely as I would like.
> They don't run all day as Mel put it, but quickly lose momentum after
> about 5 seconds or so. I got these bearings from Purvis (Faffner) and
> they should be good quality. They have grease fittings and I think I
> shot some grease into them last night, but it didn't seem to loosen
> them up much if at all. Anybody have any ideas?
>
> This won't upset my bowl spanking I don't think, but I would like to
> have this double as a banding station.
>
> As soon as M returns with the camera, pictures forthwith.
>
> fruit loops,
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
Patrick Cross on sat 13 oct 07
Ya might getcha some of this Taylor...(it's magic stuff)...and replace the
grease in the bearings...or blend it at some ratio with QMI
http://www.qminet.com/
Patrick Cross
(cone10soda)
On 10/13/07, pdp1@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Hi Taylor,
>
>
>
> For doing it this way, you need to get some 'old' wel used, decomissioned
> Flange Bearings, or ditto larger Ball Bearings you can mount in something,
> which are high HIGH miliage already, or in effect, worn out for more
> precise
> applications. So long as they are not damages or rusty, they will spin
> wonderfully in your application with merely some light Oil and protection
> from Clay Dusts.
>
>
> Any new large Ball bearings will be too stiff to 'coast' in this context
> of
> hand turning a small flywheel n a shaft they hold.
>
>
>
> Why not drill out the center Nut or rivet of the 'Bar Stool' turn-table
> ones, which had seen a lot of use already, and simply remove the Nylon or
> other friction material, and re-assemble with a minimum of tension, so
> they
> will coast?
>
> Use a light oil and not 'grease', since grease itself will prevent them
> from
> behaving as you want them to...it will act like a 'brake'.
>
>
> Have fun...!
>
>
> Phil
> l v
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Taylor Hendrix"
>
>
> > Howdy my brothers and sisters,
> >
> > I have an update to my banding wheel/turntable adventure.
> >
> > Because I'm doing a bunch of bowl beating lately, I decided that I
> > needed a turntable or two on my bench top where I could work on two or
> > more bowls at the same time. You all know that I have discovered that
> > bar stool bearings are too stiff to work for that and that I'm too
> > cheap to buy myself a $100+ shimpo.
> >
> > I decided that the need was so great, scavenging the bearings from my
> > never-completed-kick wheel was necessary. So I took the few feet to 1
> > inch cold rolled steel, a pillow block bearing and a flanged bearing
> > over to my work bench and attached them to the 2by4 framing. Now the
> > steel shaft comes up through the top of the work bench and supports a
> > plywood wheel head several inches thick. It is pretty rock solid so
> > spanking bowls won't be a problem.
> >
> > However! These bearings turn freely but not as freely as I would like.
> > They don't run all day as Mel put it, but quickly lose momentum after
> > about 5 seconds or so. I got these bearings from Purvis (Faffner) and
> > they should be good quality. They have grease fittings and I think I
> > shot some grease into them last night, but it didn't seem to loosen
> > them up much if at all. Anybody have any ideas?
> >
> > This won't upset my bowl spanking I don't think, but I would like to
> > have this double as a banding station.
> >
> > As soon as M returns with the camera, pictures forthwith.
> >
> > fruit loops,
> >
> > --
> > Taylor, in Rockport TX
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
Earl Krueger on sun 14 oct 07
Taylor,
You don't need looser bearings.
You need your good friend Angular Momentum.
Add some mass to your wheel; lead weights,
cast iron, concrete, bricks or such.
The farther from the axle the better.
Oh, and evenly balanced would be
much better than all on one side: :-)
Earl Krueger
Elmira, Oregon, usa
Lee Love on sun 14 oct 07
On 10/13/07, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> cheap to buy myself a $100+ shimpo.
Taylor, the one I have here in the states doesn't cost anymore than
one of Phil's loop tools!
http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/22L-SHIMPO-BANDING-WHEEL-p/sbw22l.htm
You can make an excellent trimming tool, but cannot make anything
like a shimpo banding wheel.
I have a big one in Mashiko that cost me only $75.00 new on
sale. It is the second biggest shimpo banding wheel. It has holes
for a throwing stick and I can throw tea bowls on it.
If you handbuild, it is a good investment!
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
"We are not afraid to entrust the American people with unpleasant
facts, foreign ideas, alien philosophies, and competitive values. For
a nation that is afraid to let its people judge the truth and
falsehood in an open market is a nation that is afraid of its people."
--JFK
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
WJ Seidl on sun 14 oct 07
Earl:
Dive weights are better than bricks. Heavier (lead), and no chance of
brick chips
and dust contaminating the workspace. Plus, you can affix them permanently
with some Liquid Nails construction adhesive, or bolt them on since
they're metal,
or use the (included) nylon belt and fasten them around the perimeter of
the platform
as you suggest.
Can't do that easily with a brick.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
humming Jethro Tull's "Thick as a Brick"
Earl Krueger wrote:
> Taylor,
>
> You don't need looser bearings.
> You need your good friend Angular Momentum.
>
> Add some mass to your wheel; lead weights,
> cast iron, concrete, bricks or such.
> The farther from the axle the better.
>
> Oh, and evenly balanced would be
> much better than all on one side: :-)
>
> Earl Krueger
> Elmira, Oregon, usa
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
Patrick Cross on sun 14 oct 07
OR...speaking of lead weights....how about those esssercise dealies that you
can strap on you ankles. Nylon straps...come in 5lbs...10lbs...
I guess those are lead?...maybe they're steel shot inside? Anyway I see
those things at thrift store all the time and are probably less expensive
than dive weights?
Patrick Cross
(conne10soda)
(I have another idea (no wait I have TWO) for a banding wheel.....but I'm
too hungry right now to write it out...will later.)
On 10/14/07, WJ Seidl wrote:
>
> Earl:
> Dive weights are better than bricks. Heavier (lead), and no chance of
> brick chips
> and dust contaminating the workspace. Plus, you can affix them
> permanently
> with some Liquid Nails construction adhesive, or bolt them on since
> they're metal,
> or use the (included) nylon belt and fasten them around the perimeter of
> the platform
> as you suggest.
> Can't do that easily with a brick.
> Best,
> Wayne Seidl
> humming Jethro Tull's "Thick as a Brick"
>
> Earl Krueger wrote:
> > Taylor,
> >
> > You don't need looser bearings.
> > You need your good friend Angular Momentum.
> >
> > Add some mass to your wheel; lead weights,
> > cast iron, concrete, bricks or such.
> > The farther from the axle the better.
> >
> > Oh, and evenly balanced would be
> > much better than all on one side: :-)
> >
> > Earl Krueger
> > Elmira, Oregon, usa
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
Patrick Cross on sun 14 oct 07
....or Shot Gun Shell Reload....doesn't that usually come sewn up in canvas
bags?
Patrick Cross
(cone10soda)
On 10/14/07, Patrick Cross wrote:
>
> OR...speaking of lead weights....how about those esssercise dealies that
> you can strap on you ankles. Nylon straps...come in 5lbs...10lbs...
>
> I guess those are lead?...maybe they're steel shot inside? Anyway I see
> those things at thrift store all the time and are probably less expensive
> than dive weights?
>
> Patrick Cross
> (conne10soda)
>
> (I have another idea (no wait I have TWO) for a banding wheel.....but I'm
> too hungry right now to write it out...will later.)
>
> On 10/14/07, WJ Seidl wrote:
> >
> > Earl:
> > Dive weights are better than bricks. Heavier (lead), and no chance of
> > brick chips
> > and dust contaminating the workspace. Plus, you can affix them
> > permanently
> > with some Liquid Nails construction adhesive, or bolt them on since
> > they're metal,
> > or use the (included) nylon belt and fasten them around the perimeter of
> > the platform
> > as you suggest.
> > Can't do that easily with a brick.
> > Best,
> > Wayne Seidl
> > humming Jethro Tull's "Thick as a Brick"
> >
> > Earl Krueger wrote:
> > > Taylor,
> > >
> > > You don't need looser bearings.
> > > You need your good friend Angular Momentum.
> > >
> > > Add some mass to your wheel; lead weights,
> > > cast iron, concrete, bricks or such.
> > > The farther from the axle the better.
> > >
> > > Oh, and evenly balanced would be
> > > much better than all on one side: :-)
> > >
> > > Earl Krueger
> > > Elmira, Oregon, usa
> > >
> > >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change
> > your
> > > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots2@visi.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> >
> > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
> >
> >
>
>
Patrick Cross on mon 15 oct 07
A while back on the way home one day......(and the tale begins)...
I spotted an aluminum alloy wheel with a shredded tire on it just cast aside
on the road edge. I think it's off a Chevy Z71 truck or some other GM
vehicle...Tahoe perhaps? And like about 45.738% of the shiny things I see
on the side of the road I picked it up, drug it home and added it to my pile
of "useful things" Of course this all typically starts with no particular
plan of how to use it...what ever "it" is at the time of
discovery.........yet....but it will come to me in a dream or
some-such.....eventually....I swear.
The wheel just had an aura about it that made me think it might be something
I couldn't live without considering the free-ness of it all, ya see.
Later I thought with a flat surface of some sort attached, it could be the
makings of a killer banding wheel. fancier still if I rigged a intermittent
motor that would swivel down and rub the lower bead or rim edge...then
spring out of the way by some spring-loaded hinge arrangement. A trip down
to the local auto salvage yard for the appropriate spindle and hub and I'd
be good-to-go (mostly). Then there's that whole I'll get around to that
someday, but until then I get to stumble over that wheel and move it from
spot to spot for the next 5 years....
So somebody make what I'm writing about and show me that it can be
done.....perhaps that will shame me into making my own please..
Patrick Cross
(cone10soda)
On 10/14/07, Patrick Cross wrote:
>
> ....or Shot Gun Shell Reload....doesn't that usually come sewn up in
> canvas bags?
>
> Patrick Cross
> (cone10soda)
>
> On 10/14/07, Patrick Cross < cone10soda@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > OR...speaking of lead weights....how about those esssercise dealies that
> > you can strap on you ankles. Nylon straps...come in 5lbs...10lbs...
> >
> > I guess those are lead?...maybe they're steel shot inside? Anyway I see
> > those things at thrift store all the time and are probably less expensive
> > than dive weights?
> >
> > Patrick Cross
> > (conne10soda)
> >
> > (I have another idea (no wait I have TWO) for a banding wheel.....but
> > I'm too hungry right now to write it out...will later.)
> >
> > On 10/14/07, WJ Seidl wrote:
> > >
> > > Earl:
> > > Dive weights are better than bricks. Heavier (lead), and no chance of
> > > brick chips
> > > and dust contaminating the workspace. Plus, you can affix them
> > > permanently
> > > with some Liquid Nails construction adhesive, or bolt them on since
> > > they're metal,
> > > or use the (included) nylon belt and fasten them around the perimeter
> > > of
> > > the platform
> > > as you suggest.
> > > Can't do that easily with a brick.
> > > Best,
> > > Wayne Seidl
> > > humming Jethro Tull's "Thick as a Brick"
> > >
> > > Earl Krueger wrote:
> > > > Taylor,
> > > >
> > > > You don't need looser bearings.
> > > > You need your good friend Angular Momentum.
> > > >
> > > > Add some mass to your wheel; lead weights,
> > > > cast iron, concrete, bricks or such.
> > > > The farther from the axle the better.
> > > >
> > > > Oh, and evenly balanced would be
> > > > much better than all on one side: :-)
> > > >
> > > > Earl Krueger
> > > > Elmira, Oregon, usa
> > > >
> > > >
> > > ______________________________________________________________________________
> > >
> > > > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > > >
> > > > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change
> > > your
> > > > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> > > >
> > > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > > melpots2@visi.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ______________________________________________________________________________
> > > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change
> > > your
> > > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> > >
> > > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
WJ Seidl on mon 15 oct 07
Patrick:
Go online and investigate the various ways (the mechanisms) that
manufacturers use
to electrify kick wheels. That will give you the answer you seek. A
very small 12 or 120 volt motor
should do the trick, since there is not a lot of mass there. Might want
to fill that rim with concrete
once you have it mounted.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Patrick Cross wrote:
> SNIP
> Later I thought with a flat surface of some sort attached, it could be the
> makings of a killer banding wheel. fancier still if I rigged a intermittent
> motor that would swivel down and rub the lower bead or rim edge...then
> spring out of the way by some spring-loaded hinge arrangement. A trip down
> to the local auto salvage yard for the appropriate spindle and hub and I'd
> be good-to-go (mostly). Then there's that whole I'll get around to that
> someday, but until then I get to stumble over that wheel and move it from
> spot to spot for the next 5 years....
>
> So somebody make what I'm writing about and show me that it can be
> done.....perhaps that will shame me into making my own please..
>
> Patrick Cross
> (cone10soda)
>
>
Taylor Hendrix on mon 15 oct 07
Alright, settle down Wayne.
This weekend I was very productive in the home made tool department
and I'll blog stuff later tonight.
Update on banding wheel: I went to my local Ace Hardware and purchased
several pipe nipples and some flanges. A few of those pipe nipples are
already Mayor Mel Specials, but two of the nipples and flanges are
destined to be an inexpensive workable banding wheel/turn table. Here
is what I have so far.
I bought one 8 inch nipple, 1 inch diameter and a flange to go with
it. I also bought one 6 inch nipple, 1 1/4 inch diameter and a flange
for it. As it happens the 1 inch nipple fits just inside the 1 1/4
inch nipple with just a bit of wiggle. The idea is simple -- the
larger of the pipes with it's flange is fastened to the work bench.
The other pipe fits inside it with it's flange pointing up to accept
some sort of wheel head. All that is needed is a pivot of some kind.
Today I am going to Purvis for a possible substitution, but today I
used a marble that fit easily into the 1 1/4 inch pipe but could not
pass through the 1 inch pipe. This is the pivot and it works quite
well when the smaller pipe captures it and rides atop it. A steel
bearing on steel plate will be even better perhaps.
TA DA
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
Edouard Bastarache Inc. on mon 15 oct 07
Hey Texan,
do you need glasses
you use such large fonts?
Gis la revido,
(A la revoyure)
Edouard Bastarache
Spertesperantisto
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
http://perso.orange.fr/smart2000/livres.htm
http://www.pshcanada.com/Toxicology.htm
http://www.ceramique.com/librairie/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://myblogsmesblogs.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: Taylor's latest banding wheel
attempt.
> Alright, settle down Wayne.
>
> This weekend I was very productive in the home
> made tool department
> and I'll blog stuff later tonight.
>
> Update on banding wheel: I went to my local Ace
> Hardware and purchased
> several pipe nipples and some flanges. A few of
> those pipe nipples are
> already Mayor Mel Specials, but two of the
> nipples and flanges are
> destined to be an inexpensive workable banding
> wheel/turn table. Here
> is what I have so far.
>
> I bought one 8 inch nipple, 1 inch diameter and
> a flange to go with
> it. I also bought one 6 inch nipple, 1 1/4 inch
> diameter and a flange
> for it. As it happens the 1 inch nipple fits
> just inside the 1 1/4
> inch nipple with just a bit of wiggle. The idea
> is simple -- the
> larger of the pipes with it's flange is fastened
> to the work bench.
> The other pipe fits inside it with it's flange
> pointing up to accept
> some sort of wheel head. All that is needed is a
> pivot of some kind.
> Today I am going to Purvis for a possible
> substitution, but today I
> used a marble that fit easily into the 1 1/4
> inch pipe but could not
> pass through the 1 inch pipe. This is the pivot
> and it works quite
> well when the smaller pipe captures it and rides
> atop it. A steel
> bearing on steel plate will be even better
> perhaps.
>
> TA DA
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to:
> clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post
> messages, or change your
> subscription settings here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database:
> 269.14.9/1067 - Release Date: 2007-10-12 18:02
>
>
Lee Love on mon 15 oct 07
I was at Willem Gebben's yesterday. It was the Western Wisconsin
Pottery crawl. I got a late start and was only able to go to Mark
Pharis/Wayne Branum's studio and Willems (Really wanted to visit Randy
and Jan Mckechie/Johston too, but ran out of time. Was nice to see
Mark. He taught me how to throw.
Willem built both a Korean mahagony kickwheel and an Okinawan
style hand wheel like the one Hamada used. He has the handwheel
mounted to stand at. You remove a section from the table and can
stand right next to the wheel. Both wheels have good bearings.
If you buy proper bearings, you can make a hand wheel that is just a
supersized hand wheel.
I now have two Leach wheels. I got a student wheel from
NCC. I am guesing there are more Leach wheels per-captia in
Minnesota than any other State in N. America. I think my student one
came from a H.S. If I take anyone on, they can learn on the student
wheel and use mine when I am not using it.
In the meantime, I really like trimming on a Leach wheel so I can
dedicate one for trimming. They are great for decorating on too.
And, of course, throwing on.
--
Lee in Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"For a democracy of excellence, the goal is not to reduce things to a
common denominator but to raise things to a shared worth."
--Paolo Soleri
Russel Fouts on tue 16 oct 07
Taylor,
Keep it simple, just put a round patio stone on it. Works great.
Russel
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 17 oct 07
Hi Taylor,
Looks good..!
Something like this should last well anyway, really, the use it will get is
not great strain for it's Bearing...and so long as the thing put on it is
centered, should turn with very little friction indeed.
I really like that Chicken Foot mold/impression, very nice...
Wow...very cool...
Phil
l v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
> OOOOOOORRRRRRRR,
>
> You can try this.
>
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com/
>
> Just a few pics to show you what is possible with about 20 bucks,
> maybe less. I lost my Ace receipt.
>
> I'll put it all together this weekend. Someone just gave me a pile of
> 1/2 inch plywood (hurricane shutters just installed). I'll cut me a
> wheel head soon.
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
>
> p.s. Isn't it shinny?
>
> On 10/17/07, Hank Taylor wrote:
> ...
>> Taylor , if you are looking for a banding wheel that will spin until next
>> week, here's an idea.
>>
>> go to your local salvage yard and get two items
Hank Taylor on wed 17 oct 07
Subject: Re: Taylor's latest banding wheel attempt.
>> > > > You don't need looser bearings.
>> > > > You need your good friend Angular Momentum.
>> > > >
>> > > > Add some mass to your wheel; lead weights,
>> > > > cast iron, concrete, bricks or such.
>> > > > The farther from the axle the better.
>> > > >
>> > > > Oh, and evenly balanced would be
>> > > > much better than all on one side: :-)
Another 2 cents worth,
Taylor , if you are looking for a banding wheel that will spin until next
week, here's an idea.
go to your local salvage yard and get two items
1 a flywheel from a small car (standard shift ) as close to the
size of wheel dia. you want .
2 a rear wheel hub from a small front wheel drive general motors
car. it should not have a center bearing cap that can be removed, true you
could use one like that but you would have to make a very
thick wheel surface to cover it up. The kind that has a flat or slightly
raised center would be best.
take a wooden 3/4 plywood disk two inches wider in diameter than you
want to make your wheel head dia. Cut a hole out in the middle to accept the
rear stub
the hub. Some hubs will require a little more depth to contain the stub,
just add more plywood. knock the wheel hub studs out and remove all the
other parts, brake shoes , backing plate , etc. ( try and get a hub
from a car that was wrecked, that way if it is not broken it won't be worn
out , they often are replace them when the sensor ring gets cracked and
messes with the brake brain causing all kind of automotive problems but
doesn't hurt a banding wheel). use the axle mount holes to fasten it to
the plywood disk. then place the clutch side of the fly wheel up onto the
hub. use bushings or spacers to mount it level . if you can use them the
holes might line up between the hub and flywheel ( good luck with that )
other wise center the flywheel on the hub and use epoxpy or some other
strong glue to fasten the two in the proper alignment. then cover it
with a layer of plywood and wa-la you have a heavy duty banding wheel
that will spin forever (almost) and take more thrust pressure than you
will ever create while potting ( 5000 lbs.+ ( 2000 lbs small car wt. x
2-2.5 Gs) in a hard turn.
and sorry Maggie, but FAFNIR and TIMKEN are both major bearing
manufacturers and each have hundreds of styles of bearings in probably a
million different combos. so it would be hard to say for sure what
the floor mount bearing was made for originally , possibly just for a
potters wheel or banding wheel
it probably is some sort of axial/thrust type made as one unit but I am
a poor guesser.
If anything needs further explaining you can contact me off list at
hanktaylor@dtcweb.net.
hope this helps,
Hank T. CVFF,REMT and TINKERER
PS: this wheel will be heavy !!!
Taylor Hendrix on wed 17 oct 07
OOOOOOORRRRRRRR,
You can try this.
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com/
Just a few pics to show you what is possible with about 20 bucks,
maybe less. I lost my Ace receipt.
I'll put it all together this weekend. Someone just gave me a pile of
1/2 inch plywood (hurricane shutters just installed). I'll cut me a
wheel head soon.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
p.s. Isn't it shinny?
On 10/17/07, Hank Taylor wrote:
...
> Taylor , if you are looking for a banding wheel that will spin until next
> week, here's an idea.
>
> go to your local salvage yard and get two items
>
...
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