Eleanora Eden on sat 3 nov 07
Hi Serge,
Do you mean a crack in the mold or the shape is not what you want?
Cracks and gross breakage are easy. You use white glue, making absolutely sure
not to have any on the surface where the clay slip goes.
If the shape is not what you want that depends. You can carve plaster to your
heart's content. I just added feet to some bowl casts I made years ago. Adding is
a whole lot trickier.
Best,
Eleanora
>Dear all,
>
>
>
>When we make a plaster mold and have a small lack damage (>1mm) in it ; is
>it possible to rectify it ?
>
>If yes with what, bcs plaster don't catch plaster!
>
>Mold is for slip casting.
>
>Thanks to all to be so helpful even if we don't intervene many times on
>Clayart.
>
>
>
>Serge
>
>www.khmerceramics.com
>
>
>
>Serge Rega
>Director
>NCKCR
>+855(0)63 761 519
>www.khmerceramics.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
Veena Raghavan on sat 3 nov 07
Hi Eleanora,
Thanks for posting the information. You have tickled my curiosity. If you
don't mind, could you please tell us how you added the feet to the mold, sounds
really complicated.
Thanks in advance.
Veena
In a message dated 11/3/2007 1:23:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
eeden@VERMONTEL.NET writes:
>
> If the shape is not what you want that depends. You can carve plaster to
> your
> heart's content. I just added feet to some bowl casts I made years ago.
> Adding is
> a whole lot trickier.
>
> Best,
>
> Eleanora
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
Info khmerceramics on sun 4 nov 07
Hi Eleanora,
Thanks for posting the information.
But as said Veena, could you please tell us how you added the feet to the
mold??
Cheers,
Serge
Serge Rega
Director
NCKCR
+855(0)63 761 519
www.khmerceramics.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eleanora Eden"
To: "Clayart"
Cc: "khmerceramics"
Sent: Saturday, 03 November, 2007 22:55
Subject: Re: Casting mold repair
> Hi Serge,
>
> Do you mean a crack in the mold or the shape is not what you want?
>
> Cracks and gross breakage are easy. You use white glue, making
> absolutely sure
> not to have any on the surface where the clay slip goes.
>
> If the shape is not what you want that depends. You can carve plaster to
> your
> heart's content. I just added feet to some bowl casts I made years ago.
> Adding is
> a whole lot trickier.
>
> Best,
>
> Eleanora
>
>
>
>
>>Dear all,
>>
>>
>>
>>When we make a plaster mold and have a small lack damage (>1mm) in it ; is
>>it possible to rectify it ?
>>
>>If yes with what, bcs plaster don't catch plaster!
>>
>>Mold is for slip casting.
>>
>>Thanks to all to be so helpful even if we don't intervene many times on
>>Clayart.
>>
>>
>>
>>Serge
>>
>>www.khmerceramics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>Serge Rega
>>Director
>>NCKCR
>>+855(0)63 761 519
>>www.khmerceramics.com
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>melpots2@visi.com
>
>
> --
> Bellows Falls Vermont
> www.eleanoraeden.com
Eleanora Eden on mon 5 nov 07
Hi Serge, Veena, all,
You're entirely welcome.
Adding the foot, you realize, is simply carving the foot into the bottom
of the mold. This was an old mold for a small round bowl. I centered
it on the wheel with slip to hold it solidly, and carved it.
With a 10 year old mold you just get a whole lot of plaster dust, the
place gotta be cleaned up after.
Now I would point out that a casting with a foot is going to be a whole
different ball game removing from the mold. You want a wider than deep
cut, rounded NOT SQUARE. Think about that casting grabbing onto
the mold and keeping the bowl from un-molding. Some work nicely,
some are a real tug and I have to kind of peel the casting out, but I am
able to do that consistently without distortion so in the end I'd say it works.
Let the casting dry too long in the mold and it will crack around the inside
of the foot.
I usually make a rather muscular foot so the shallow foot isn't my cup of tea,
but it does make stacking the bowls in the kitchen nicer and that is what I
am aiming at.
Oh, and be sure to measure the thickness of the bottom of the mold
before you start carving down!
Eleanora
>Hi Eleanora,
>
>Thanks for posting the information.
>
>But as said Veena, could you please tell us how you added the feet to the
>mold??
>
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
WJ Seidl on mon 5 nov 07
Ok, dear, now I'm somewhat confusticated. (Nothing new there)
Are you carving a footRING or individual FEET?
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Eleanora Eden wrote:
> Hi Serge, Veena, all,
>
> You're entirely welcome.
>
> Adding the foot, you realize, is simply carving the foot into the bottom
> of the mold. This was an old mold for a small round bowl. I centered
> it on the wheel with slip to hold it solidly, and carved it.
>
> With a 10 year old mold you just get a whole lot of plaster dust, the
> place gotta be cleaned up after.
>
> Now I would point out that a casting with a foot is going to be a whole
> different ball game removing from the mold. You want a wider than deep
> cut, rounded NOT SQUARE. Think about that casting grabbing onto
> the mold and keeping the bowl from un-molding. Some work nicely,
> some are a real tug and I have to kind of peel the casting out, but I am
> able to do that consistently without distortion so in the end I'd say it works.
> Let the casting dry too long in the mold and it will crack around the inside
> of the foot.
>
> I usually make a rather muscular foot so the shallow foot isn't my cup of tea,
> but it does make stacking the bowls in the kitchen nicer and that is what I
> am aiming at.
>
> Oh, and be sure to measure the thickness of the bottom of the mold
> before you start carving down!
>
> Eleanora
>
>
>
>
>
>> Hi Eleanora,
>>
>> Thanks for posting the information.
>>
>> But as said Veena, could you please tell us how you added the feet to the
>> mold??
>>
>>
>
> --
> Bellows Falls Vermont
> www.eleanoraeden.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
Eleanora Eden on mon 5 nov 07
Wayne dear,
Feet are feet. A foot is a foot. Is that any clearer?
Eleanora
>Ok, dear, now I'm somewhat confusticated. (Nothing new there)
>Are you carving a footRING or individual FEET?
>Best,
>Wayne Seidl
>
>Eleanora Eden wrote:
>>Hi Serge, Veena, all,
>>
>>You're entirely welcome.
>>
>>Adding the foot, you realize, is simply carving the foot into the bottom
>>of the mold. This was an old mold for a small round bowl. I centered
>>it on the wheel with slip to hold it solidly, and carved it.
>>
>>With a 10 year old mold you just get a whole lot of plaster dust, the
>>place gotta be cleaned up after.
>>
>>Now I would point out that a casting with a foot is going to be a whole
>>different ball game removing from the mold. You want a wider than deep
>>cut, rounded NOT SQUARE. Think about that casting grabbing onto
>>the mold and keeping the bowl from un-molding. Some work nicely,
>>some are a real tug and I have to kind of peel the casting out, but I am
>>able to do that consistently without distortion so in the end I'd say it works.
>>Let the casting dry too long in the mold and it will crack around the inside
>>of the foot.
>>
>>I usually make a rather muscular foot so the shallow foot isn't my cup of tea,
>>but it does make stacking the bowls in the kitchen nicer and that is what I
>>am aiming at.
>>
>>Oh, and be sure to measure the thickness of the bottom of the mold
>>before you start carving down!
>>
>>Eleanora
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Hi Eleanora,
>>>
>>>Thanks for posting the information.
>>>
>>>But as said Veena, could you please tell us how you added the feet to the
>>>mold??
>>>
>>
>>--
>>Bellows Falls Vermont
>>www.eleanoraeden.com
>>
>>______________________________________________________________________________
>>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>>
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
Veena Raghavan on mon 5 nov 07
Thanks, Eleanora,
I am going to try this with a bisque mold, will carve the feet in when
leatherhard, or using a tip from Bonnie Hellman about making bisque molds for feet,
will press the feet into the thrown mold when soft leatherhard.
Thanks again for sharing.
Veena
In a message dated 11/5/2007 12:29:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
eeden@VERMONTEL.NET writes:
>
> Adding the foot, you realize, is simply carving the foot into the bottom
> of the mold. This was an old mold for a small round bowl. I centered
> it on the wheel with slip to hold it solidly, and carved it.
>
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
| |
|
