Lili Krakowski on tue 13 nov 07
Why should your glazes clunk? This is a mystery! If there is little clay
in the mix, add bentonite! About 3% to start. If it tends to clunk a little
Epsom Salt or Calcium Chloride fixes that. There commercial products also
meant to flocculate and deflocculate...why oh why not use them?
If you use glazes that contain stuff bad for your skin get some long rubber
gloves. These would be sold by any place that sells to people who deal with
nasty chemicals, as well as by veterinary supply houses.
As mad as I am about toilet brushes...I do not want to be thought unkind--I
find them of little use in glaze mixing. They just are very weak and do not
last long. If you must stir, Asian markets sell very very long wooden
spoons that work beautifully in 5 gal. buckets. Or you make your self a
large wooden paddle....
Also: EVERYONE would be happier if glaze not used for more than a few days
would be sieved before use. Yes, you cannot do that with a 50 gallon
tub--but if you were in the 50 gal. tub league, you would know what to do.
If you mix about 3K at a time, making the proper amount for a 5 gal. bucket
you most certainly CAN sieve the whole thing....Make a sieve for every
glaze--saves a lot of rinsing. I use a large nailbrush type brush for
scrubbing the glaze through.
As I keep saying in a pitiful, whining, irritating voice: GLAZING IS HARD
WORK! It is not slip slosh and off we go. It takes time, care,
patience....
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
William & Susan Schran User on tue 13 nov 07
On 11/13/07 1:55 PM, "Lili Krakowski" wrote:
> As mad as I am about toilet brushes...I do not want to be thought unkind--I
> find them of little use in glaze mixing. They just are very weak and do not
> last long. If you must stir, Asian markets sell very very long wooden
> spoons that work beautifully in 5 gal. buckets.
Can't imagine why you'd be mad as you am about toilet brushes being used to
stir glazes.
We used to have large wooden spoons, 5 gal. size paint stir sticks and large
commercial whisks for my students to stir glazes mixed in 5 gallon buckets.
Tried toilet bowl brushes - the cheap all plastic type - no metal - and I
find my students do a much better job of stirring up the glazes in a shorter
amount of time.
Have been using some for going on 3 years. Pretty good investment at $1.00
each.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Fred Parker on wed 14 nov 07
Dear Lili Krakowski:
Could you expand on your comment to "make" a sieve for each glaze? I only
know of the bucket sieves that cost upwards of 25 bucks each. Are you
suggesting it is worth it to purchase one for each glaze bucket, or is
there another way?
Many thanks,
Fred Parker
On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 13:55:30 -0500, Lili Krakowski
wrote:
>you most certainly CAN sieve the whole thing....Make a sieve for every
>glaze--saves a lot of rinsing. I use a large nailbrush type brush for
>scrubbing the glaze through.
>
>As I keep saying in a pitiful, whining, irritating voice: GLAZING IS HARD
>WORK! It is not slip slosh and off we go. It takes time, care,
>patience....
Donna Kat on fri 23 nov 07
On Wed, 14 Nov 2007 20:21:09 -0500, Fred Parker wrote:
>Dear Lili Krakowski:
>
>Could you expand on your comment to "make" a sieve for each glaze? I only
>know of the bucket sieves that cost upwards of 25 bucks each. Are you
>suggesting it is worth it to purchase one for each glaze bucket, or is
>there another way?
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Fred Parker
>
I'm not Lili but I can tell you that you can make inexpensive sieves in
many different ways. You can get cheap nylon straining bags ($1-$2) for
5 paint, a 10 -12" embroidery hoop ($1), and a little marine varnish (in
the shed) and make a serviceable sieve (varnish the separate parts of the
hoop, pull the nylon tight within the hoop and then tighten hoop. You can
buy screening that you attach to a 3.5 or 5 gallon plastic buckets that
you cut the bottom out of to make a sieve. There are several ways to do
this =96 1) cut the bottom off the bucket so that the bucket is now open,
cut a 2=94 band off of bottom of bucket =96 the overlapping screen fits on t=
he
bottom of this band which fits inside the top piece of the bucket =96 use
silicon or pipe glue to cement together =96 push in until tight; 2) cut of
the bottom of the bucket to make it open then melt or glue the screen onto
the plastic. It has been recommended that the bucket be cut so that it is
no more than a few inches deep or you risk putting in too much glaze and
tearing off the screen.
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