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wiring plates from bats

updated sun 18 nov 07

 

Michael Wendt on wed 14 nov 07


Melodie, (original question below)
You need to go to the local music store
and buy an "E" string made by Ernie Ball
that is 0.09" in diameter. One end has a
little brass ring called a ferrule that has a hole
in it. Measure the bat for the plate and cut
the guitar string about 6-8" longer than the
diameter of the bat.
I use rubber stoppers we get for the
soap pumps for the ends and pass the wire
through the stopper and then through the
ferrule on the one end and make a loop
to hold it to the stopper. Go to Radio Shack
and get the small assortment of what is
called heat shrink tubing used for electrical
insulation. Place a short piece over the wire
first. Then with the plain end, I go through
the hole in the stopper and then wind the
wire around the cutting length a few times to
make it stay. Last, slide the shrink tube over
the wound pokey wire and heat it with a blow
dryer on high until it shrinks. This keeps you
form being poked.
Now you need a cutting riser.
Find a table or counter that will allow you to
drive two small wire nails about 6" apart near the
edge so that they stick up just lower than the
top edge of the bat. Place the bat on the table
so that it is held by the nails. This now lets you
fully tension the cut off wire below the edges of
the bat and make very clean cuts without any
tendency to buck up.
Most people suggest cutting the plates while
they are rotating on the wheel but I have found
my method works every time and leaves
virtually no clay on the bat if the wire is
stretched tightly.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
Melodie wrote:
Hi, I am getting back into throwing after several years
of sculpting and
can't remember tricks for removing large plates from
bats.
I googled my problem and came up with an old thread on
clayart with your
great videoclip.
Any suggestions? I'm having problems running a wire
through 12 inch platters
without going through my bottom. How thick should I be
keeping my bottom?
I love your technique for rims - I'' ll try that
tomorrow.
Thanks, Melodie Greenblatt

The Goodsons on thu 15 nov 07


Question for Michael Wendt!

Michael,
I always have problems with this so I will definitely try your method.
Thank you.

you wrote:
> This now lets you
> fully tension the cut off wire below the edges of
> the bat and make very clean cuts without any
> tendency to buck up.
Do you pull the wire from front to back/ back to front or a different
way?? And do you do this immediately after throwing while the clay is
very wet or do you wait a while??

Thanks so much,
Linda Goodson

Michael Wendt on fri 16 nov 07


I cut toward myself and do it immediately.
As long as the tension is high, the wire
never leaves more than a thin film of clay
on the bat.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com

Lynne and Bruce Girrell on sat 17 nov 07


I'm getting the impression that I'm not receiving all Calyart messages again
because I don't see the beginning of this thread. Hoepfully I won't be
repeating something already said.

We use plaster bats. It totally eliminates the wiring-off problems. Also,
the plate dries more uniformly and is less likely to warp. I've never
managed to get a wire to cut straight on a large diameter piece like a
plate, no matter how much tension I use, what direction I pull, or whether
or not the piece is rotated. Maybe because I haven't wired off my 100th
plate yet.

Plaster just makes it so easy. I wouldn't use a wire on something that large
unless someone forced me to.

Bruce Girrell