mel jacobson on mon 19 nov 07
please post this for ms kellam:
I have made postings to the Clayart group in the past, but it isn't
working right now. I have posted it below if you are able to assist
me or let me know to whom I need to contact to get it posted.
Thank You!
POSTING:
Shivering -- can it be repaired??
I just took a load out of the kiln, and all of the tiles have mild
shivering on the edges (1/4 total depth for all the tiles). To back
it up a bit, I use a Cone 06 Clear glaze that is actually a brush on
glaze. I wanted to start being able to dip so I called the local
company that makes the glaze to find out how to do it. They
suggested just adding water until it is the desired thickness. Of
course, they didn't give me a specific amount so I just used the
Viscosity cup to determine if it was right. Just to let you know, I
never had a problem at all when it was just brushed on. (It just
took longer, and I was trying to speed up the process.)
Anyway, is there a way to salvage the pieces? I was wondering if I
sanded the rough edges then reapplied the regular brush on glaze (no
extra water), if that would help to adhere the glaze properly. The
tiles are pieces that are hung on a wall so they aren't functional --
just art. If you have any insight it would be greatly appreciated
as I really need to salvage them if at all possible. To make them
again may not be possible because they are unique pieces that can't
be reproduced.
Thank You!
Sherri
from: mel/minnetonka.mn.usa
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
Clayart page link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
Ron Roy on tue 20 nov 07
Hi Sherri,
I don't think there is anything you can do - but maybe - if you reglazed
with a crazing glaze - and the two glazes melted together and the mixture
would then have a higher expansion - maybe worth a try.
RR
>Shivering -- can it be repaired??
>
>I just took a load out of the kiln, and all of the tiles have mild
>shivering on the edges (1/4 total depth for all the tiles). To back
>it up a bit, I use a Cone 06 Clear glaze that is actually a brush on
>glaze. I wanted to start being able to dip so I called the local
>company that makes the glaze to find out how to do it. They
>suggested just adding water until it is the desired thickness. Of
>course, they didn't give me a specific amount so I just used the
>Viscosity cup to determine if it was right. Just to let you know, I
>never had a problem at all when it was just brushed on. (It just
>took longer, and I was trying to speed up the process.)
>
>Anyway, is there a way to salvage the pieces? I was wondering if I
>sanded the rough edges then reapplied the regular brush on glaze (no
>extra water), if that would help to adhere the glaze properly. The
>tiles are pieces that are hung on a wall so they aren't functional --
>just art. If you have any insight it would be greatly appreciated
>as I really need to salvage them if at all possible. To make them
>again may not be possible because they are unique pieces that can't
>be reproduced.
>
>Thank You!
>
>Sherri
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Bonnie Staffel on wed 21 nov 07
Sherri, I had a shivering problem with a standard glaze of my own making
after I added some black (iron) beach sand to my clay body. I so wanted =
the
speckling that was so popular in the early 50's reduction fired pots. I
searched everywhere to try to find a remedy. The one that worked came =
from a
fellow potter who suggested that I lower the top firing temperature a =
bit.
That worked. Evidently the addition of the iron sand to the body changed =
the
shrinkage ratio on cooling. =20
I am not saying that your clay body has changed, but it might be worth a =
try
to lower your firing down a bit. If you fire with the cone at 6 o'clock
position, then stop it when it is at 3 o'clock etc., until you achieve a
good final result. I am assuming that you are aware of the =
nomenclature of
the positions of the firing cones? It also sounds like a glaze =
thickness
problem as well for when you thinned the raw glaze with water, that also
affected the thickness that your bisque body absorbed the material. =20
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD Introduction to Wheel Work
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