Charles Hazelaar on thu 29 nov 07
Great news! This does make me wonder about surface treatment. I am using
stains and oxides. Will I get the same results single firing?
Also, I use a Raku clay in hand built sculpture. I get away with thickness
varying from one inch thick down to 1/4 inch in the same piece. Will I be
looking at any additional stress risk doing it this way?
Also Too, I use small amounts of glaze for accent and I use low fire colors.
Should I assume that the colors will burn out? Do I need to switch to cone
6 colors to start with?
This is very good news -- I thought this would be just one question -- but
you know, doors open.
Charles Hazelaar
_cahazelaar@aol.com_ (mailto:cahazelaar@aol.com)
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Donna Kat on thu 29 nov 07
On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:35:40 EST, Charles Hazelaar
wrote:
>Great news! This does make me wonder about surface treatment. I am
using
>stains and oxides. Will I get the same results single firing?
>
>Also, I use a Raku clay in hand built sculpture. I get away with
thickness
>varying from one inch thick down to 1/4 inch in the same piece. Will I
be
>looking at any additional stress risk doing it this way?
>
>Also Too, I use small amounts of glaze for accent and I use low fire
colors.
> Should I assume that the colors will burn out? Do I need to switch to
cone
>6 colors to start with?
>
>This is very good news -- I thought this would be just one question -- but
>you know, doors open.
>
>Charles Hazelaar
>_cahazelaar@aol.com_ (mailto:cahazelaar@aol.com)
Again, if you treat this firing as a bisque fire that is then fired to the
final cone you want then you should be fine. You cannot by pass any of
what you would need to do in a bisque firing. 'Candle' overnight (~150F)
to make sure the ware is dry. Fire slowly up to the temperature where
water goes from a liquid to gas and when chemical changes are releasing
gas. Once you get through all of the issues of clay releasing water and
gases all you have to care about is the silica in the clay. wiping oxides
to the pieces will not impact on the final firing (you fire to when your
clay vitrifies - no need to soak). It does add water to the clay so you
have to be careful to dry out the clay which you would have to do in any
case - especially with sculptured pieces (this can be done in the firing).
http://www.bigceramicstore.com/Information/tip31.htm
http://www.hotkilns.com/ceramic-process.pdf
http://www.highwaterclays.com/odyssey/tech/bisque2.html
marci Boskie's Mama =^..^= on fri 30 nov 07
> Charles Hazelaar wrote:
>
>Great news! This does make me wonder about surface treatment. I am using
>stains and oxides. Will I get the same results single firing?
>
>Also, I use a Raku clay in hand built sculpture. I get away with thickness
>varying from one inch thick down to 1/4 inch in the same piece. Will I be
>looking at any additional stress risk doing it this way?
>
>Also Too, I use small amounts of glaze for accent and I use low fire colors.
> Should I assume that the colors will burn out? Do I need to switch to cone
>6 colors to start with?
I am doing ^ 6 porcelain clay pieces glazed with a
commercial clear glaze and single fired. I do some with just
the clay and glaze and then use either overglaze ( china paints)
, overglaze metallics or commercial lusters in subsequent fires
.... but I also do pieces where I have used underglaze colors (
Mostly Velvet Underglazes) over the dry greenware, then glaze
and single fire...
Most of the colors hold to the ^ 6 fire with the exception
of some pinks .
Marci Blattenberger Boskie's Mama =^..^=
http://www.marciblattenberger.com
marci@ppio.com
Porcelain Painters International Online http://www.ppio.com
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