vpitelka on mon 10 dec 07
Taylor -=20
You're wacky. Wonderfully wacky. But in the case of this project, =
stop. Stop right now. Forget the pulleys and motor. Put a better =
wheelhead on the thing and use it as a giant banding wheel for making =
large coil pots or for decorating big pots. Save your money and buy =
another good-quality variable speed potter's wheel and mount it for =
stand up throwing. Your time is far too valuable to waste trying to =
convert this thing into a single-speed stand-up wheel. Isaac Button and =
some of the other old masters may have gotten used to throwing on a =
single-speed wheel, but it ain't worth your time. And there is no good =
way to convert a 110-volt AC motor to variable speed and still have the =
torque you need at the various speeds. It might work fine for Hank's =
ball mill, but not for a potter's wheel. That's the whole reason for =
the DC electronically-controlled variable speed motors on electric =
wheels - they give a constant torque throughout the speed range.
Okay?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Taylor Hendrix on mon 10 dec 07
This is a resend.
Awhile ago I wrote to the list about rigging up a monster banding
wheel using the bearings and the 1 inch drive shaft from my homemade
kickwheel. I passed it through the top of my workbench and it works
just fine eventhough the laminated wheel head is crap and isn't level.
I'm working on a new wheel head by and by, but I've got a motorizing
question first.
I realized that if I built a crib around the wheel head and attached a
pulley to the drive shaft I could have an old time potters wheel right
there in my studio and I could stand up to use it, yipee! Right now I
don't have an extra motor anywhere, so I was going to pull off the
motor from my Lockerbie and try to rig it up for fun.
What size pullies do I need to get? I'm not booked up on what sizes to
use so that I don't twist my arms off to bloody stumps when I go to
throw. You think the Lockerbie motor spins too fast? I mean that fly
wheel on the Lockerbie is a pretty big pully size. Should I try to
make a keyway on the shaft or will a nice flat spot do for a set
screw? And how about adjusting the speed? Should I just pick one speed
and go with that or is there a solid state solution? Hank, didn't you
make a speed circut for your ball mill?
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
WJ Seidl on mon 10 dec 07
Taylor:
Hold it right there, hoss.
First...
not all AC motors are variable speed. If you plan to do more than
center,throw, trim at one speed (very boring, very Asian, that) you're
going to have to find one that is or find a system that will let you
vary the speed somehow.
Second...
most Merikan motors run at either 1750 or 3450 (+/-) rpms
If you need less "RPM-age" than that (you better betcherbutt you do) you
need to get yo-self a book showing you formulae for pulleys etc. or find
a good web source like this one:
http://eagle.csd49.org/middle/jss/Course_GearCalc.htm that can guide you
through figuring it out so your head doesn't explode.
For speed controls, go here:
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/motor/vek2636.htm but realize
that this is for a smaller motor (5.5A limit) once you have the ratios
worked out for pulleys and whatnot.
For my money, were I to do it again, i would buy a used DC motor, and
just use a rheostat like an old sewing machine foot pedal to control
it. Simpler, and you can run the whole thing off a cheap battery
charger from a yard sale. Cheap is almost as good as free, isn't it?
Besides, one of those junkyard starter motors from a 460 or a 318 has
enough torque to spin your head right off. You could probably center
half a ton with one of those driving your wheel.
Now that I've 'splained all of that Lucy...quit screwing around! If you
want to throw standing put the Lockerbie up on cinderblocks since it's
already electrified, (You'll need one cinderblock [8x8x16] and one red
house brick for each of the three feet...ask me how I know whydon'cha)
and getcherbutt in gear. Quit trying to reinvent the wheel (pun
intended) and go spend time with that lovely wife of yours instead. Or
she might tell you to go sit on it and spin. It's way too close to
Christmas for that.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> This is a resend.
>
> Awhile ago I wrote to the list about rigging up a monster banding
> wheel using the bearings and the 1 inch drive shaft from my homemade
> kickwheel. I passed it through the top of my workbench and it works
> just fine eventhough the laminated wheel head is crap and isn't level.
> I'm working on a new wheel head by and by, but I've got a motorizing
> question first.
>
> I realized that if I built a crib around the wheel head and attached a
> pulley to the drive shaft I could have an old time potters wheel right
> there in my studio and I could stand up to use it, yipee! Right now I
> don't have an extra motor anywhere, so I was going to pull off the
> motor from my Lockerbie and try to rig it up for fun.
>
> What size pullies do I need to get? I'm not booked up on what sizes to
> use so that I don't twist my arms off to bloody stumps when I go to
> throw. You think the Lockerbie motor spins too fast? I mean that fly
> wheel on the Lockerbie is a pretty big pully size. Should I try to
> make a keyway on the shaft or will a nice flat spot do for a set
> screw? And how about adjusting the speed? Should I just pick one speed
> and go with that or is there a solid state solution? Hank, didn't you
> make a speed circut for your ball mill?
>
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 11 dec 07
Hi Taylor,
Somehow I missed the continuity here...( it happens )
What is the goal or intention ?
I remember you were considering to make a Banding Wheel...
What is it you are wanting to make?
Best wishes! ( Whatever it is! )
Phil
l v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
> Aw Vince,
>
> Why'd ya have to go and do that. Now i HAVE to motorize it. And just
> to make it interesting I'm going to build the large pulley out of
> scrap plywood.
>
> So there.
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
vpitelka on tue 11 dec 07
Taylor wrote:
"Aw Vince, Why'd ya have to go and do that. Now i HAVE to motorize it. =
And just to make it interesting I'm going to build the large pulley out =
of scrap plywood."
Taylor -=20
You are right, I shouldn't have discouraged you. So, if you are going =
to go ahead and do this, perhaps I can give you some good suggestions. =
When you are fabricating the plywood pulleys, you can use multiple =
sheets of plywood to create the recessed grove, but why use plywood when =
you can instead use the cheapest particle board available, and just to =
make sure that they stay together, use at least thirty or forty 16d =
nails and just bend them over on the other side. No need to use =
V-belts, just use hemp rope and tie a knot in it to get the size you =
want. For a metal wheelhead, an aluminum pizza-baking tray and a big =
glob of PC-7 epoxy putty on the top of the shaft should work fine. And =
to get variable speed, just adapt a brake drum to the underside of the =
wheelhead and fasten the backing plate with brake shoes to the frame, =
and instead of stepping on the pedal to speed up the wheel, you'll step =
on the pedal to slow it down. Better yet, just adapt a recycled Briggs =
and Stratton lawnmower engine, and then you can have an accelerator =
pedal that works just like a conventional wheel. You'll want a splash =
pan, so just keep your eyes open for a good deal on a used electric =
wheel, throw away the wheel, and you'll have the splash pan to adapt to =
your new project. In order to raise up the wheel for stand-up throwing, =
I'd recommend that you order a custom Rancho Super-Lift-Kit for a Ford =
F-350 diesel 4WD pickup, equipped with high-lift air shocks. That way, =
you can simply pressurize or de-pressurize the shocks to adjust the =
height to whatever suits you at the moment. And if you go the Briggs =
and Stratton route, you can run a 12-volt alternator to power your =
pottery-wheel-mounted audio system. I recommend the JBL A3000 GTI =
3600-watt amplifier with a pair of Kicker SoloX S18X subwoofers and a JL =
Audio ZR650-Csi speaker set, and while you are throwing you can =
rearrange your molecules.=20
I'm sure I'll have more suggestions while you proceed with this project. =
I mean, if you are going to waste so much of your time, why not go all =
out?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Michael Wendt on tue 11 dec 07
Taylor,
Motorizing a wheel using an AC motor is
fun and easy. The rate of turning for the
wheel head is the rpm of the motor divided
by the ratio of the large pulley diameter
divided by the small pulley diameter.
(technically, the pitch diameters but OD
is close enough for this application).
Example: Large pulley = 12"
small pulley = 1.2"
ratio is 12 / 1.2 = 10:1
If the motor turns at 1725 rpm,
the wheel head will turn at 172.5
rpm.
Check out:
http://www.surpluscenter.com
they have DC motors, controllers and
the needed switch gear and cords to
make any potters wheel you would ever
want to build.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
Taylor Hendrix on tue 11 dec 07
Thanks Vince. As usual, you are full of great advice. Let me get a
pencil and a piece of paper. I made the paper myself out of recycled
tp and belly button lent. The pencil is really just some bit of
charcoal from my last pit firing. Okay, how do you spell Sprigs and
Strap on?
t
On Dec 11, 2007 7:20 PM, vpitelka wrote:
> Taylor wrote:
> "Aw Vince, Why'd ya have to go and do that. Now i HAVE to motorize it. And just to make it interesting I'm going to build the large pulley out of scrap plywood."
>
> Taylor -
> You are right, I shouldn't have discouraged you. So, if you are going to go ahead and do this, perhaps I can give you some good suggestions. ...
Taylor Hendrix on tue 11 dec 07
Aw Vince,
Why'd ya have to go and do that. Now i HAVE to motorize it. And just
to make it interesting I'm going to build the large pulley out of
scrap plywood.
So there.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On Dec 10, 2007 10:05 PM, vpitelka wrote:
> Taylor -
> You're wacky. Wonderfully wacky. But in the case of this project, stop. Stop right now. Forget the pulleys and motor. ... Your time is far too valuable to waste trying to convert this thing into a single-speed stand-up wheel....
> Okay?
> - Vince
Robert on thu 13 dec 07
Kinda late on the conversation. I used to have a wheel as you have
described that I inherited from a friend. I cant remember if it was a
low or high speed electric (AC) motor (low speed (1720?) I think). The
motor was attached to a piece of plywood hinged to the frame with a
couple of compression springs mounted appropriately to tension the
belt. The motor pulley was 1 1/2 or 2 inches and the shaft pulley was
around 12". I ended up converting it to a jigger/jolley and used it
that way for a few years. The limitations of a single speed weren't an
issue with the jigger setup. I only had a set screw directly on the
shaft. That was plenty of torque for the pulley though I would
occasionally have belt slippage if I over torqued. Have fun.
Robert
Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> This is a resend.
>
> Awhile ago I wrote to the list about rigging up a monster banding
> wheel using the bearings and the 1 inch drive shaft from my homemade
> kickwheel. I passed it through the top of my workbench and it works
> just fine eventhough the laminated wheel head is crap and isn't level.
> I'm working on a new wheel head by and by, but I've got a motorizing
> question first.
>
> I realized that if I built a crib around the wheel head and attached a
> pulley to the drive shaft I could have an old time potters wheel right
> there in my studio and I could stand up to use it, yipee! Right now I
> don't have an extra motor anywhere, so I was going to pull off the
> motor from my Lockerbie and try to rig it up for fun.
>
> What size pullies do I need to get? I'm not booked up on what sizes to
> use so that I don't twist my arms off to bloody stumps when I go to
> throw. You think the Lockerbie motor spins too fast? I mean that fly
> wheel on the Lockerbie is a pretty big pully size. Should I try to
> make a keyway on the shaft or will a nice flat spot do for a set
> screw? And how about adjusting the speed? Should I just pick one speed
> and go with that or is there a solid state solution? Hank, didn't you
> make a speed circut for your ball mill?
>
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
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