Taylor Hendrix on mon 17 dec 07
Howdy my peeps:
I just finished chiseling off a length of old saw mill band saw blade
for a trimming tool. I want to make a nice big "D" shaped trimming
tool and I have a few questions.
The blade is nice high carbon steel, so it will be a great tool, but
it is pretty brittle as the chiseling proved. Easy to tap off the
teeth as well. What I want to know now is whether I should anneal the
steel in my raku kiln first and then cold bend it or just heat it up
where I'm going to bend it. I don't want it to be too brittle for
trimming do I?
I love grinding stuff. It's fun. I get to wear my face shield and do
the Darth Vader voice.
--
Taylor, in Rockport TX
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on mon 17 dec 07
Hi Taylor,
Probably the existing Temper is too hard for allowing the section to be bent
into much of a "D" shape without cracking...and too, some Band Saw Blades
are tempered higher/harder at the Teeth, with less temper behind for the
Body proper, so, bending them too acutely may cause them to crack at the
Teeth side, while the Body itself was willing to abide it.
What is the width of the Blade?
And, was it Metal Cutting or Wood Cutting?
Too, if you have a Bench Grinder, and a Grinding Wheel with a fairly crisp
90 Degree edge, you can Grind across a section of Band Saw Blade, making a
shallow groove 90 degrees to the length...and flex it, and it will break
there, which would be a lot easier then 'chiselling' or other means, for
making short sections from long...
If you anneal it, you would have a rather soft materal needing to be
re-tempered to be of any useful cutting ability or stamina...
Phil
l v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
> Howdy my peeps:
>
> I just finished chiseling off a length of old saw mill band saw blade
> for a trimming tool. I want to make a nice big "D" shaped trimming
> tool and I have a few questions.
>
> The blade is nice high carbon steel, so it will be a great tool, but
> it is pretty brittle as the chiseling proved. Easy to tap off the
> teeth as well. What I want to know now is whether I should anneal the
> steel in my raku kiln first and then cold bend it or just heat it up
> where I'm going to bend it. I don't want it to be too brittle for
> trimming do I?
>
> I love grinding stuff. It's fun. I get to wear my face shield and do
> the Darth Vader voice.
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
Mike on tue 18 dec 07
Use a little hand torch to heat the metal then bend it. I've done it
with my old bandsaw blades and a propane cartridge burner. Very quick
and easy. I know annealling works well with copper, but does it make HC
steel soft enough to bend without snapping?
Mike
in Taku, Japan
karatsupots.blogspot.com
www.karatsupots.com
Taylor Hendrix *'"は>きま-Y:
> Howdy my peeps:
>
> I just finished chiseling off a length of old saw mill band saw blade
> for a trimming tool. I want to make a nice big "D" shaped trimming
> tool and I have a few questions.
>
> The blade is nice high carbon steel, so it will be a great tool, but
> it is pretty brittle as the chiseling proved. Easy to tap off the
> teeth as well. What I want to know now is whether I should anneal the
> steel in my raku kiln first and then cold bend it or just heat it up
> where I'm going to bend it. I don't want it to be too brittle for
> trimming do I?
>
> I love grinding stuff. It's fun. I get to wear my face shield and do
> the Darth Vader voice.
>
> --
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 18 dec 07
Hi Taylor,
Well, 'Banding Metal' so to speak, the 'Bands' or 'Strapping' used to bind
bundles of Cargo or Lumber or whatever, cinched to itself with a crimp
fitting, is supposed to be just as it is...and is a different order of
material-type and intended properties, and reason, from Band Saw Blades...in
case there is any confusion about them being related or comparable.
I am having trouble understanding what advantage an Inch-Wide section of
tempered Steel Band Saw Blade would present, for making a Trimming Tool out
of...regardless of whether one is intending to Trim 'wet' or far Leather
Hard, or 'dry'...
I think if you want to make some relatively durable Trimming Tools, and ones
which in potential, would be the best which Steel could be asked to do, that
you could do so by using thinner and or smaller sorts of old Files, which
can be had everywhere for little to nothing especially when rusty or worn
and grungy, and...anneal them, shape them into what one wishes, re-Temper to
whatever Temper is the best compromise for how one is to be sharpening and
re-sharpening them...
Similarly, used, grungy Hand Saws or their injured-Handle Blades, can be had
very favorably everywhere, most of their Blades can be cut with Tin Snips,
and bent 'cold' when in narrow 'Ribbons', and would be another excellent
recourse...
Tools made from these can be sharpened nicely with a good File.
Bear in mind, Band Saw Blades are of an alloy and Temper which permits them
to be endlessly and remorselessly bent over the Wheels of the Machine, under
tension, and with frequent strains of the Work they are cutting...and,
probably, at best, will not be as 'good' for these purposes, as the Steel
one finds in most Handsaws.
Probably, the Band Saw Blade you have some section of, was a 'Re-Saw' Blade
for a smaller Machine...or, was a 'small' Blade for general 'Straight' Work,
from a large Machine.
Any truly 'good' Handsaw, of which probably none are anymore made, would be
too 'hard' to cut with Tin Snips, and, would resist or refuse cold bending
to stay bent...since it is in effect a true 'Spring Steel' in alloy and
Temper and intention.
Clock Springs, similarly...if there is any old Clock repair places, you
could ask them for some old and broken Clock Springs and they would be glad
to give them to you.
The long ago 'Disston' Saws of their so called 'London Spring' line, would
abide their small end being put into and some ways through the opening of
their Handle, being bent as it were, into a sort of pinch-bottom Circle to
do so, and when released, resume their normal straightness.
Other Companys had their versions also of course.
Try that at your local 'True Value' Hardware Store or other place selling
Hand Saws, with whatever Saws they sell, and, likely, someone will get
mad...and there will be however many lazy "C" shaped Saws getting set back
down...
Lol...
Anyway...have fun..!
And I know you are, too...!
Phil
l v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Taylor Hendrix"
> Hey Phil,
>
> Yes, this is hard tempered for cutting wood. The blade width is about
> an inch. I don't have calipers for checking the thickness but it is
> much thicker than the wimpy banding metal we get here in the US these
> days.
>
> It is going to make some nice tools. I've got about 30 feet of it
> thanks to David Hendley. Last time I was with him in hell, he grabbed
> some throw aways before the workers threw them in the fire.
>
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
>
> On 12/17/07, pdp1@earthlink.net wrote:
>> Hi Taylor,
>>
>>
>>
>> Probably the existing Temper is too hard for allowing the section to be
>> bent
>> into much of a "D" shape without cracking...and too, some Band Saw Blades
>> are tempered higher/harder at the Teeth, with less temper behind for the
>> Body proper, so, bending them too acutely may cause them to crack at the
>> Teeth side, while the Body itself was willing to abide it.
>>
>> What is the width of the Blade?
>>
>> And, was it Metal Cutting or Wood Cutting?
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
Taylor Hendrix on tue 18 dec 07
Hey Phil,
Yes, this is hard tempered for cutting wood. The blade width is about
an inch. I don't have calipers for checking the thickness but it is
much thicker than the wimpy banding metal we get here in the US these
days.
It is going to make some nice tools. I've got about 30 feet of it
thanks to David Hendley. Last time I was with him in hell, he grabbed
some throw aways before the workers threw them in the fire.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On 12/17/07, pdp1@earthlink.net wrote:
> Hi Taylor,
>
>
>
> Probably the existing Temper is too hard for allowing the section to be bent
> into much of a "D" shape without cracking...and too, some Band Saw Blades
> are tempered higher/harder at the Teeth, with less temper behind for the
> Body proper, so, bending them too acutely may cause them to crack at the
> Teeth side, while the Body itself was willing to abide it.
>
> What is the width of the Blade?
>
> And, was it Metal Cutting or Wood Cutting?
Lee Love on wed 19 dec 07
Taylor,
To make the stirrup tool, could you attach a straight blade
to a curved wooden handle?
Sometimes, the material dictates the method.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Japan
http://groups.google.com/group/ClayCraft
"Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by
education." -- Bertrand Russell
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