John Rodgers on fri 11 jan 08
Hi Craig,
I have one of these Axner Power Arms - I wouldn't have another.
Everything about it is exactly as you describe.
Mine is also mounted on a Brent CXC wheel.
There are a lot of reasons I don't like this thing
1 ) It flexes when it shouldn't. Hard as hell to maintain tolerances so
dimensions are consistent..
2) Difficult to adjust conveniently. Big PITA trying to get the
vertical adjustment just right so the plate and bowl thicknesses are
precise.
3) Switching from vertical to horizontal action for centering and
opening clay is also a big PITA. Doesn't work well.
4) Shape of the pivot arm is inconvenient. No adjustment of the handle
grip on the arm.
5) No mechanical assistance to lift the arm out of the way when the
plate/bowl is finished and the mold is to removed from the bucket head.
6) No safety to lock the arm up when not in use. The damn thing has hit
me in the head once already. It is a 30 inch long steel bar that is 3/4
inch thick. Dangerous!!
That special bracket that supports the arm is, I discovered, nothing
more than a couple of pieces of Unistrut, which can be purchased cheap
at most Home Depot, Lowes, or electrical supply houses along with just
about any kind of specialized Unistrut hardware necessary to go with it.
I do like the concept, a jigger/jolly for the studio potter. My
solution - I have designed and I am having built, a potters wheel
jigger/jolly setup that will eliminate all the problems. It will be
stiff, with no give. and it will have a fine-thread jack screw for
vertical adjustment, as well as a double action knuckle for the arm
itself which will lend itself to ease of transition from jigger/jolly
operation to a centering/opening operation. There will be a mechanically
balanced arm that will be easy to lift and to set out of the way,
without fear of the thing falling and hitting one in the head.
I - like you - do all my own work, and keeping up with the work load
gets to be a challenge. Shop tools to aid me in my work are a must. On
top of that I have some arthritis and taking some of the pressure off
the joints is also an issue.
I plan to put my design out on the market after the first one comes from
the machine shop and has been tested on my wheel. I will announce it on
the list if anyone is interested.
I have built a couple of these before, so have been through a bit of a
learning curve. Maybe I will have it exactly perfect this time.
Regards.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Craig Martell wrote:
> Hi:
>
> I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger things at NCECA in
> 2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger dinnerware. I've thrown
> dinnerware for the last 30 plus years and I can throw plates and bowls of
> all sizes just fine but I can't keep up with the demand and I'm in this
> racket to make money. I'm full time and I have no source of income other
> that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a lot of time when you
> factor in
> the drying, foot turning, and reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of
> scrap to reclaim. Jiggering eliminates this and saves time and
> resources. I only want to jigger dinnerware and I am still throwing
> everything else. That's my story.
>
> So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy a "unibracket"
> adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with bags of bolts
> etc and not one thing else as in instructions or any helpful hints on
> putting this stuff together. So I called and asked for
> instructions. Customer Service said they'd send some and they never
> showed
> up. Called again and a guy called and gave me some general info and said
> to use the Axner Website for info on how to install the Unibracket and
> how
> to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the Unibracket in the video was
> different that the one that I had. Called again, no response to the
> message I left. Called once again, no response. Shit!
>
> I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I could install
> everything and upon doing this I realized that the parts weren't made to
> fit the wheel very precisely and they hadn't sent everything I needed. I
> purchased all the nuts and bolts I needed for about 5 bucks and had to
> take
> stuff out to my machine shop and I redrilled parts and made everything
> fit
> correctly. Got this all done and put the device on one of my Brents and
> jiggered some test plates. The result was that I realized the whole
> assembly, including the Unibracket and Power Arm were really wimpy and
> needed some work. The thing you don't want with a jigger arm is
> "deflection." You set the arm to jigger a certain thickness of plate and
> it cannot deflect or you'll get an uneven piece. These Axner Power Arms
> deflect a lot and with little arm pressure. So, more adjustment and
> modification and I've eliminated most of the deflection. A lot of extra
> work on my part and I shouldn't have had to do this. I wouldn't
> recommend
> these things to anyone and if you ain't too mechanical you REALLY don't
> want one of these things. This is my opinion only and others may not
> agree. So it goes.
>
> I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was understanding and tried to
> help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and they have not
> responded. Howard is not really involved any longer so I won't bother
> him
> further. I'm done.
>
> regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
Craig Martell on fri 11 jan 08
Hi:
I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger things at NCECA in
2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger dinnerware. I've thrown
dinnerware for the last 30 plus years and I can throw plates and bowls of
all sizes just fine but I can't keep up with the demand and I'm in this
racket to make money. I'm full time and I have no source of income other
that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a lot of time when you factor in
the drying, foot turning, and reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of
scrap to reclaim. Jiggering eliminates this and saves time and
resources. I only want to jigger dinnerware and I am still throwing
everything else. That's my story.
So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy a "unibracket"
adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with bags of bolts
etc and not one thing else as in instructions or any helpful hints on
putting this stuff together. So I called and asked for
instructions. Customer Service said they'd send some and they never showed
up. Called again and a guy called and gave me some general info and said
to use the Axner Website for info on how to install the Unibracket and how
to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the Unibracket in the video was
different that the one that I had. Called again, no response to the
message I left. Called once again, no response. Shit!
I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I could install
everything and upon doing this I realized that the parts weren't made to
fit the wheel very precisely and they hadn't sent everything I needed. I
purchased all the nuts and bolts I needed for about 5 bucks and had to take
stuff out to my machine shop and I redrilled parts and made everything fit
correctly. Got this all done and put the device on one of my Brents and
jiggered some test plates. The result was that I realized the whole
assembly, including the Unibracket and Power Arm were really wimpy and
needed some work. The thing you don't want with a jigger arm is
"deflection." You set the arm to jigger a certain thickness of plate and
it cannot deflect or you'll get an uneven piece. These Axner Power Arms
deflect a lot and with little arm pressure. So, more adjustment and
modification and I've eliminated most of the deflection. A lot of extra
work on my part and I shouldn't have had to do this. I wouldn't recommend
these things to anyone and if you ain't too mechanical you REALLY don't
want one of these things. This is my opinion only and others may not
agree. So it goes.
I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was understanding and tried to
help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and they have not
responded. Howard is not really involved any longer so I won't bother him
further. I'm done.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
vpitelka on sat 12 jan 08
Larry wrote:
"When jiggering a plate is the plaster form dry or wet in the
beginning? A few years ago I bought hump molds for plates from Axner but
had major issues with cracking and never worked it out. T at Axner said
that I did not have the form wet enough to slow the drying down enough."
Larry -
Their advice is exactly opposite my experience. I threw hundreds of
casserole and tureen lids on domed plaster bats. I used bone-dry bats, and
then put them on a rack above a gas space heater, so they dried QUICK. They
never cracked.
And then in grad school I started making 23" slumped slab platters with
intricate inlaid colored clay imagery. It was a real drag if even a single
one cracked during drying - you can see them at
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/gallery/early%20work/early_work.htm - you'll
understand why I was so upset on the rare occasions that one cracked. I cast
large plaster bats from a 36" wok, and dried them completely before using
them. They were always bone-dry when I slumped an inlaid slab on them.
After the slab was slumped I put the big plaster bat on the wheel, added
coils to the back of the slab, and threw several foot rings. In the
basement beneath the U-Mass ceramics studio there was a major steam-pipe
junction for the system that heated all the buildings. I'd take the big bat
with the slumped slab and set it on top of the hot steam pipes, and the next
day the platter would be bone dry, and no cracks.
I know that this is counter-intuitive. I really do not have an explanation
as to why it worked so well, except perhaps it was enveloped in its own
cloud of humidity and dried very evenly. It just worked.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
tony clennell on sat 12 jan 08
John and Craig: thanx for your report on the Axner jigger/jolly. I
have long believed this is the best method of making plates. I think
Sheila is going to have to go under the knife from throwing too many
plates and we use soft clay. they are our biggest selling item and now
with our texturing of the rim the jigger would really be the answer. I
have looked at the Axner video several times wondering and it just
didn't look beefy enuff for a jigger arm. Glad ya reported your
findings.
John send me a pic of yours when you get it complete. You just may
have a customer.
All the best u2.
Tony
On Jan 12, 2008 12:21 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Hi Craig,
>
> I have one of these Axner Power Arms - I wouldn't have another.
> Everything about it is exactly as you describe.
>
> Mine is also mounted on a Brent CXC wheel.
>
> There are a lot of reasons I don't like this thing
> 1 ) It flexes when it shouldn't. Hard as hell to maintain tolerances so
> dimensions are consistent..
> 2) Difficult to adjust conveniently. Big PITA trying to get the
> vertical adjustment just right so the plate and bowl thicknesses are
> precise.
> 3) Switching from vertical to horizontal action for centering and
> opening clay is also a big PITA. Doesn't work well.
> 4) Shape of the pivot arm is inconvenient. No adjustment of the handle
> grip on the arm.
> 5) No mechanical assistance to lift the arm out of the way when the
> plate/bowl is finished and the mold is to removed from the bucket head.
> 6) No safety to lock the arm up when not in use. The damn thing has hit
> me in the head once already. It is a 30 inch long steel bar that is 3/4
> inch thick. Dangerous!!
>
> That special bracket that supports the arm is, I discovered, nothing
> more than a couple of pieces of Unistrut, which can be purchased cheap
> at most Home Depot, Lowes, or electrical supply houses along with just
> about any kind of specialized Unistrut hardware necessary to go with it.
>
> I do like the concept, a jigger/jolly for the studio potter. My
> solution - I have designed and I am having built, a potters wheel
> jigger/jolly setup that will eliminate all the problems. It will be
> stiff, with no give. and it will have a fine-thread jack screw for
> vertical adjustment, as well as a double action knuckle for the arm
> itself which will lend itself to ease of transition from jigger/jolly
> operation to a centering/opening operation. There will be a mechanically
> balanced arm that will be easy to lift and to set out of the way,
> without fear of the thing falling and hitting one in the head.
>
> I - like you - do all my own work, and keeping up with the work load
> gets to be a challenge. Shop tools to aid me in my work are a must. On
> top of that I have some arthritis and taking some of the pressure off
> the joints is also an issue.
>
> I plan to put my design out on the market after the first one comes from
> the machine shop and has been tested on my wheel. I will announce it on
> the list if anyone is interested.
>
> I have built a couple of these before, so have been through a bit of a
> learning curve. Maybe I will have it exactly perfect this time.
>
> Regards.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
>
>
>
> Craig Martell wrote:
> > Hi:
> >
> > I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger things at NCECA in
> > 2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger dinnerware. I've thrown
> > dinnerware for the last 30 plus years and I can throw plates and bowls of
> > all sizes just fine but I can't keep up with the demand and I'm in this
> > racket to make money. I'm full time and I have no source of income other
> > that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a lot of time when you
> > factor in
> > the drying, foot turning, and reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of
> > scrap to reclaim. Jiggering eliminates this and saves time and
> > resources. I only want to jigger dinnerware and I am still throwing
> > everything else. That's my story.
> >
> > So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy a "unibracket"
> > adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with bags of bolts
> > etc and not one thing else as in instructions or any helpful hints on
> > putting this stuff together. So I called and asked for
> > instructions. Customer Service said they'd send some and they never
> > showed
> > up. Called again and a guy called and gave me some general info and said
> > to use the Axner Website for info on how to install the Unibracket and
> > how
> > to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the Unibracket in the video was
> > different that the one that I had. Called again, no response to the
> > message I left. Called once again, no response. Shit!
> >
> > I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I could install
> > everything and upon doing this I realized that the parts weren't made to
> > fit the wheel very precisely and they hadn't sent everything I needed. I
> > purchased all the nuts and bolts I needed for about 5 bucks and had to
> > take
> > stuff out to my machine shop and I redrilled parts and made everything
> > fit
> > correctly. Got this all done and put the device on one of my Brents and
> > jiggered some test plates. The result was that I realized the whole
> > assembly, including the Unibracket and Power Arm were really wimpy and
> > needed some work. The thing you don't want with a jigger arm is
> > "deflection." You set the arm to jigger a certain thickness of plate and
> > it cannot deflect or you'll get an uneven piece. These Axner Power Arms
> > deflect a lot and with little arm pressure. So, more adjustment and
> > modification and I've eliminated most of the deflection. A lot of extra
> > work on my part and I shouldn't have had to do this. I wouldn't
> > recommend
> > these things to anyone and if you ain't too mechanical you REALLY don't
> > want one of these things. This is my opinion only and others may not
> > agree. So it goes.
> >
> > I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was understanding and tried to
> > help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and they have not
> > responded. Howard is not really involved any longer so I won't bother
> > him
> > further. I'm done.
> >
> > regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots2@visi.com
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
--
http://sourcherrypottery.com
http://smokieclennell.blogspot.com
Chris K on sat 12 jan 08
I purchased a used Ratcliff unit about 8 years ago. I moved to a smaller
studio space and have not unpacked it..still sits in my garage under a
tarp (5 years now). If you were to see an actual unit like this you would
laugh at the bolt on your wheel versions! Remember that you need lots of
space for the plaster molds.
-Chris
Richard Aerni on sat 12 jan 08
Tony, John, Craig,
Of course Jonathan Kaplan would know "the" machine to get. I think he was
the poster child for one of the jiggering/jollying machines way back when.
I would trust his knowledge over any company's ads.
I had a hand in building a home-made jiggering machine back in the 80s. I
too was doing a lot of dinnerware, and thought that jiggering (upside
down...is that the right term?) was the answer. I still have some of the
plates and bowls, but ultimately found I was bored with the making of them.
Perhaps hiring someone to crank them out is the answer. I still have the
arm on my stand-up wheel, would just need to make some new templates and
plaster beds.
Craig, it's interesting, isn't it, what comes and goes, in terms of what's
in vogue? I've made four dinnerware sets in the past two months, with
another monster one still to come. Whatever you've got to do, right? I
took your advice and loaded up on the plate/bowl setters from England that
Georgie's and Highwater sells. Nice to be able to put in 16 settings in a
few stacks in the kiln.
All the best,
Richard Aerni
Rochester, NY
Lois Ruben Aronow on sat 12 jan 08
Thanks for the update. I was just considering buying one for the reasons
you state - easier to meet the demand in an economical way. Your first
paragraph could have been written by me.
Question: did you put a slab of clay on the mold before jiggering it? Or a
lump? I would think a thick slab would be easiest, but I also assume you
thought of that already.
Anyone else have this challenge? I am also considering a jigger - the whole
machine - and would love feedback from those who have it. Commercial bone
china is done on a jigger, albeit a heavy duty one.
Anyone out there have experience in Ram pressing plates? I know this would
expensive, but it would also be productive, and the weight of the press
would, ideally, curb warping.
Lastly, I'm also realizing it's time for me to consider a de-airing pug mill
to recycle and wedge. I have searched the archives, but wondering if there
was any new information out there.
I am not looking for top-of-the-line, but I am looking for best value for
money, rather than the cheapest solution. it's a real timewaster to buy
cheap but have time consuming workarounds.
...Lo
expanding her business in 2008. I think.
**********
Lois Aronow Porcelain
Brooklyn, NY
www.loisaronow.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
> Craig Martell
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 7:38 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: jolly/jigger power arm
>
> Hi:
>
> I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger things
> at NCECA in 2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger
> dinnerware. I've thrown dinnerware for the last 30 plus
> years and I can throw plates and bowls of all sizes just fine
> but I can't keep up with the demand and I'm in this racket to
> make money. I'm full time and I have no source of income
> other that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a lot of
> time when you factor in the drying, foot turning, and
> reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of scrap to reclaim.
> Jiggering eliminates this and saves time and resources. I
> only want to jigger dinnerware and I am still throwing
> everything else. That's my story.
>
> So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy a
> "unibracket"
> adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with
> bags of bolts etc and not one thing else as in instructions
> or any helpful hints on putting this stuff together. So I
> called and asked for instructions. Customer Service said
> they'd send some and they never showed up. Called again and
> a guy called and gave me some general info and said to use
> the Axner Website for info on how to install the Unibracket
> and how to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the Unibracket
> in the video was different that the one that I had. Called
> again, no response to the message I left. Called once again,
> no response. Shit!
>
> I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I could
> install everything and upon doing this I realized that the
> parts weren't made to fit the wheel very precisely and they
> hadn't sent everything I needed. I purchased all the nuts
> and bolts I needed for about 5 bucks and had to take stuff
> out to my machine shop and I redrilled parts and made
> everything fit correctly. Got this all done and put the
> device on one of my Brents and jiggered some test plates.
> The result was that I realized the whole assembly, including
> the Unibracket and Power Arm were really wimpy and needed
> some work. The thing you don't want with a jigger arm is
> "deflection." You set the arm to jigger a certain thickness
> of plate and it cannot deflect or you'll get an uneven piece.
> These Axner Power Arms deflect a lot and with little arm
> pressure. So, more adjustment and modification and I've
> eliminated most of the deflection. A lot of extra work on my
> part and I shouldn't have had to do this. I wouldn't
> recommend these things to anyone and if you ain't too
> mechanical you REALLY don't want one of these things. This
> is my opinion only and others may not agree. So it goes.
>
> I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was understanding
> and tried to help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and
> they have not responded. Howard is not really involved any
> longer so I won't bother him further. I'm done.
>
> regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or
> change your subscription settings here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
Lois Ruben Aronow on sat 12 jan 08
A ram press is a hydraulic machine that delivers x-number of tons of
pressure to form clay onto a plaster die or mold. It doesn't spin at all.
http://www.ramprocess.com/Process/index.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
> steve graber
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 1:29 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: jolly/jigger power arm
>
> i've never done it, but i would think an old DECENT drill
> press could be used for a ram press? use the slow rotation
> (RPM) and spin a male-female mold form into shape.
>
> i imagine there's no cheap way to do it right. perhaps a
> $1000 set up would be needed. pricey, but you'll need a
> strong foundation of the fixture to insure no jiggle of the jigger.
>
> see ya
>
> Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc
> Claremont, California USA
> The Steve Tool - for awesum texture on pots!
> www.graberspottery.com steve@graberspottery.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Lois Ruben Aronow
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 6:53:45 AM
> Subject: Re: jolly/jigger power arm
>
> Thanks for the update. I was just considering buying one for
> the reasons you state - easier to meet the demand in an
> economical way. Your first paragraph could have been written by me.
>
> Question: did you put a slab of clay on the mold before
> jiggering it? Or a
> lump? I would think a thick slab would be easiest, but I
> also assume you thought of that already.
>
> Anyone else have this challenge? I am also considering a
> jigger - the whole machine - and would love feedback from
> those who have it. Commercial bone china is done on a
> jigger, albeit a heavy duty one.
>
> Anyone out there have experience in Ram pressing plates? I
> know this would expensive, but it would also be productive,
> and the weight of the press would, ideally, curb warping.
>
> Lastly, I'm also realizing it's time for me to consider a
> de-airing pug mill to recycle and wedge. I have searched the
> archives, but wondering if there was any new information out there.
>
> I am not looking for top-of-the-line, but I am looking for
> best value for money, rather than the cheapest solution. it's
> a real timewaster to buy cheap but have time consuming workarounds.
>
> ...Lo
> expanding her business in 2008. I think.
>
> **********
> Lois Aronow Porcelain
>
> Brooklyn, NY
>
>
> www.loisaronow.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Craig
> > Martell
> > Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 7:38 PM
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: jolly/jigger power arm
> >
> > Hi:
> >
> > I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger
> things at NCECA
> > in 2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger
> dinnerware. I've
> > thrown dinnerware for the last 30 plus years and I can throw plates
> > and bowls of all sizes just fine but I can't keep up with
> the demand
> > and I'm in this racket to make money. I'm full time and I have no
> > source of income other that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a
> > lot of time when you factor in the drying, foot turning, and
> > reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of scrap to reclaim.
> > Jiggering eliminates this and saves time and resources. I
> only want
> > to jigger dinnerware and I am still throwing everything
> else. That's
> > my story.
> >
> > So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy a
> > "unibracket"
> > adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with bags of
> > bolts etc and not one thing else as in instructions or any helpful
> > hints on putting this stuff together. So I called and asked for
> > instructions. Customer Service said they'd send some and
> they never
> > showed up. Called again and a guy called and gave me some general
> > info and said to use the Axner Website for info on how to
> install the
> > Unibracket and how to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the
> Unibracket
> > in the video was different that the one that I had. Called
> again, no
> > response to the message I left. Called once again, no response.
> > Shit!
> >
> > I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I
> could install
> > everything and upon doing this I realized that the parts
> weren't made
> > to fit the wheel very precisely and they hadn't sent everything I
> > needed. I purchased all the nuts and bolts I needed for
> about 5 bucks
> > and had to take stuff out to my machine shop and I
> redrilled parts and
> > made everything fit correctly. Got this all done and put
> the device
> > on one of my Brents and jiggered some test plates.
> > The result was that I realized the whole assembly, including the
> > Unibracket and Power Arm were really wimpy and needed some
> work. The
> > thing you don't want with a jigger arm is "deflection."
> You set the
> > arm to jigger a certain thickness of plate and it cannot deflect or
> > you'll get an uneven piece.
> > These Axner Power Arms deflect a lot and with little arm
> pressure.
> > So, more adjustment and modification and I've eliminated
> most of the
> > deflection. A lot of extra work on my part and I shouldn't
> have had
> > to do this. I wouldn't recommend these things to anyone and if you
> > ain't too mechanical you REALLY don't want one of these
> things. This
> > is my opinion only and others may not agree. So it goes.
> >
> > I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was
> understanding and tried
> > to help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and they have not
> > responded. Howard is not really involved any longer so I
> won't bother
> > him further. I'm done.
> >
> > regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > ________________
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change
> > your subscription settings here:
> > http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots2@visi.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or
> change your subscription settings here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ______________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or
> change your subscription settings here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
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Lois Ruben Aronow on sat 12 jan 08
John, my best friend in the whole world......
do you need anyone to test this out? Kind of a beta-tester? Huh? huh?
pretty please?
...Lo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
> John Rodgers
> Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:21 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: jolly/jigger power arm
>
> Hi Craig,
>
> I have one of these Axner Power Arms - I wouldn't have another.
> Everything about it is exactly as you describe.
>
> Mine is also mounted on a Brent CXC wheel.
>
> There are a lot of reasons I don't like this thing
> 1 ) It flexes when it shouldn't. Hard as hell to maintain
> tolerances so dimensions are consistent..
> 2) Difficult to adjust conveniently. Big PITA trying to get
> the vertical adjustment just right so the plate and bowl
> thicknesses are precise.
> 3) Switching from vertical to horizontal action for
> centering and opening clay is also a big PITA. Doesn't work well.
> 4) Shape of the pivot arm is inconvenient. No adjustment of
> the handle grip on the arm.
> 5) No mechanical assistance to lift the arm out of the way
> when the plate/bowl is finished and the mold is to removed
> from the bucket head.
> 6) No safety to lock the arm up when not in use. The damn
> thing has hit me in the head once already. It is a 30 inch
> long steel bar that is 3/4 inch thick. Dangerous!!
>
> That special bracket that supports the arm is, I discovered,
> nothing more than a couple of pieces of Unistrut, which can
> be purchased cheap at most Home Depot, Lowes, or electrical
> supply houses along with just about any kind of specialized
> Unistrut hardware necessary to go with it.
>
> I do like the concept, a jigger/jolly for the studio potter.
> My solution - I have designed and I am having built, a
> potters wheel jigger/jolly setup that will eliminate all the
> problems. It will be stiff, with no give. and it will have a
> fine-thread jack screw for vertical adjustment, as well as a
> double action knuckle for the arm itself which will lend
> itself to ease of transition from jigger/jolly operation to a
> centering/opening operation. There will be a mechanically
> balanced arm that will be easy to lift and to set out of the
> way, without fear of the thing falling and hitting one in the head.
>
> I - like you - do all my own work, and keeping up with the
> work load gets to be a challenge. Shop tools to aid me in my
> work are a must. On top of that I have some arthritis and
> taking some of the pressure off the joints is also an issue.
>
> I plan to put my design out on the market after the first one
> comes from the machine shop and has been tested on my wheel.
> I will announce it on the list if anyone is interested.
>
> I have built a couple of these before, so have been through a
> bit of a learning curve. Maybe I will have it exactly perfect
> this time.
>
> Regards.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
>
>
> Craig Martell wrote:
> > Hi:
> >
> > I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger
> things at NCECA
> > in 2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger
> dinnerware. I've
> > thrown dinnerware for the last 30 plus years and I can throw plates
> > and bowls of all sizes just fine but I can't keep up with
> the demand
> > and I'm in this racket to make money. I'm full time and I have no
> > source of income other that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a
> > lot of time when you factor in the drying, foot turning, and
> > reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of scrap to reclaim.
> Jiggering
> > eliminates this and saves time and resources. I only want
> to jigger
> > dinnerware and I am still throwing everything else. That's
> my story.
> >
> > So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy
> a "unibracket"
> > adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with bags of
> > bolts etc and not one thing else as in instructions or any helpful
> > hints on putting this stuff together. So I called and asked for
> > instructions. Customer Service said they'd send some and
> they never
> > showed up. Called again and a guy called and gave me some general
> > info and said to use the Axner Website for info on how to
> install the
> > Unibracket and how to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the
> Unibracket
> > in the video was different that the one that I had. Called
> again, no
> > response to the message I left. Called once again, no response.
> > Shit!
> >
> > I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I
> could install
> > everything and upon doing this I realized that the parts
> weren't made
> > to fit the wheel very precisely and they hadn't sent everything I
> > needed. I purchased all the nuts and bolts I needed for
> about 5 bucks
> > and had to take stuff out to my machine shop and I
> redrilled parts and
> > made everything fit correctly. Got this all done and put
> the device
> > on one of my Brents and jiggered some test plates. The result was
> > that I realized the whole assembly, including the
> Unibracket and Power
> > Arm were really wimpy and needed some work. The thing you
> don't want
> > with a jigger arm is "deflection." You set the arm to jigger a
> > certain thickness of plate and it cannot deflect or you'll get an
> > uneven piece. These Axner Power Arms deflect a lot and with little
> > arm pressure. So, more adjustment and modification and I've
> > eliminated most of the deflection. A lot of extra work on
> my part and
> > I shouldn't have had to do this. I wouldn't recommend
> these things to
> > anyone and if you ain't too mechanical you REALLY don't want one of
> > these things. This is my opinion only and others may not
> agree. So
> > it goes.
> >
> > I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was
> understanding and tried
> > to help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and they have not
> > responded. Howard is not really involved any longer so I
> won't bother
> > him further. I'm done.
> >
> > regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________________
> > ________
> >
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change
> > your subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots2@visi.com
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or
> change your subscription settings here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
John Rodgers on sat 12 jan 08
Lois,
What I am building in the way of a jolly/jigger is really focused on the
studio potter - someone with one or two wheels who would like to makes
sets of dinner ware and the like, but would be doing most of the work
themselves. Small quantities, etc. I have a single wheel, and all
operations, both throwing and jigger/jolly work are don on that one
wheel. it is great for someone with limited workspace.
Jigger/jolly operations are most efficient with three people minimum.
One setting up the molds with clay, one running the machine, and one
taking the molds frm the machine and putting them on carts to be moved
out of the way. With three people, you can make a 12-14 inch greenware
plate in less than two minutes. THAT is significant. For the serious
operator wanting to really do production, getting a full size
jigger/jolly equipment is essential. Axner does sell this type
equipment, Ratcliffe brand name as I recall, plus you can sometimes
find similar equipment used. But it will cost at least 10 grand for a
full setup new, at a minimum.
Jigger/jolly machines work great for stuff made in the round. And the
round stuff can be altered once made. But for greatest variety in open
ware the hydraulic clay press is best. RAM is a pretty famous brand
name, but there are others. The presses are for the serious commercial
producer. They are horrendously expensive, like 30 grand and up, but boy
can you crank out the ware. Plates - round, square, octagonal, oblong,
you name it. Also bowls, casserole dishes, cups, mugs, saucers, all
sorts of of wall hanging pieces, you name it. Anything that is
considered open face ware. But the investment is huge. And it takes a
team working together to have any efficiency. But there is a place for
all this, but it is in the commercial market where enormous volume of
production is needed, which in turn helps hold prices at a reasonable
level.
For me, I prefer to keep it small and be the studio potter. I have a lot
more fun with that, and that is what it is all about. Yes, I do make my
living at pottery now, and but if it ws not fun I would not do it. I
could make more money doing something else. I like the contact with my
customers. I get a great deal of pleasure from the stroking I get when
someone feels they have really found a treasure among my things and
can't live without it. I am ever so pleased when my patrons are pleased.
It is where I live. Thrown on a wheel, or molded, or jiggered or jollyed
- doesn't matter, as long as my customers know that I did all the
design, and I am the maker, even if I have a helper or two to take some
of the work load off of me.
For my money, a single wheel with a jigger/jolly setup mounted on it is
the way to go . It does all things.
For bowls, I put a ball of clay in the bottom of the mold and then
squash it up the sides a bit. The profiling tool on the arm does the
rest. For the plates, they are made upside down. If I want pattern in
the plate rim when finished, I sometimes will carve the rim areas of the
plate mold. Then I will place a slab of clay on the plate mold, trim it
to the plate mold diameter, then pull the profiling tool down to form
the back side of the plate and the foot ring. The process will form the
front side of the plate automatically and pick up the pattern carved
into the mold. Once done, trim any excess clay hanging from the plate
mold and you are done..
When I am done with construction of my new potters wheel jigger/jolly I
will make pictures of the operation and post them on my website so it
can be clearly seen how it all works.
Hope all this helps.
John Roders
Chelsea, AL
KATHI LESUEUR on sat 12 jan 08
On Jan 12, 2008, at 9:53 AM, Lois Ruben Aronow wrote:
>
>
> Anyone out there have experience in Ram pressing plates? I know
> this would
> expensive, but it would also be productive, and the weight of the
> press
> would, ideally, curb warping.
>
> Lastly, I'm also realizing it's time for me to consider a de-airing
> pug mill
> to recycle and wedge.>>
>
I leased a RAM press for several years. There are many pros and cons
to it. When I pressed it took about 1 1/2 hours to set things up. The
die cannot be left on the press when not in use. It will damage the
platen by causing rust. A plate die will weigh about 200#. It has
to be put on with a die jack and then bolted into place. But, before
putting it on the machine it has to be soaked with water. Failure to
do this properly will result in deterioration of the die and possibly
even cracking. Making dies is an art. One that I left to the experts.
So, a working die cost me $250. From this anywhere from 200 to 1000
pressings can be made. The quantity is just luck as far as I can tell.
You must have a pugmill to press. There are people who say just use
the clay right out of the bag. But, you really need uniform moisture
throughout clay put on the die to get a good piece. People think
that RAM pressing is fast and easy. it's not. A tile maker friend who
presses says, "a press lets you make a lot of seconds really fast."
He's right. Pressing has it's own set of problems and unless you are
doing lots of it the problems multiply. A die that sits unused for a
week can develop mold in the pores that clog it. Then pieces won't
release properly. It's difficult to correct this once it happens.
Pieces can come off of the die unevenly so that one side of a rim is
sitting higher than the other. The die might have a spot that pushes
out more air than the rest of the die. This causes an area to bulge
out. Firm clay can help, but it can be a major problem. I don't know
what causes it. Some of my working dies have done this some not. All
pieces must be hand finished. This can take as much time as thrown
pieces can. And, if your clay is inclined to warp, pressing will
not help.
Once you are done and have taken the die off it must be thoroughly
dried by running air through it for at least an hour. If you don't
take the time to do this the chances of mold problems rises.
There is also the issue of output. Yes, a press can put out a large
number of pieces. If you have the space and want to stand in front of
a machine, or have someone else stand there, for six-eight hours you
can kick out a lot of product. Do not think that just anyone can
press. It requires attention to detail and at times ingenuity. That
person has to be you or someone you pay. Have someone doing it who
doesn't fit that description and I guarantee they'll crack your die
at some point. Then, can your kiln handle that output. I didn't have
that much firing capacity.
I decided a press was not for me. I didn't have the firing capacity
or the room in my studio to make it cost efficient. I found that I
could beat the press when it came to making items. And since my
consistency in throwing is good that was not an issue. I think it is
best used in a large production studio with lots of firing capacity.
For the small studio I thing jiggering is a better answer.
As for a pugmill, I've had several and always favored Bluebird. If
all you want to do is pug then any one the machines will do. If you
want to extrude with it that's another matter. The only other pugmill
I know of that has the capacity for high volume extruding is the
Peter Pugger. And, before I'd invest in it I'd want to talk with
someone who is using it to do high volume extruding. Another plus of
Bluebird is that all parts are off-the-shelf readily available at
places like Grainger. I don't know if that's true for other models.
Hope this helps.
Kathi
steve graber on sat 12 jan 08
i've never done it, but i would think an old DECENT drill press could be used for a ram press? use the slow rotation (RPM) and spin a male-female mold form into shape.
i imagine there's no cheap way to do it right. perhaps a $1000 set up would be needed. pricey, but you'll need a strong foundation of the fixture to insure no jiggle of the jigger.
see ya
Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc
Claremont, California USA
The Steve Tool - for awesum texture on pots!
www.graberspottery.com steve@graberspottery.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Lois Ruben Aronow
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 6:53:45 AM
Subject: Re: jolly/jigger power arm
Thanks for the update. I was just considering buying one for the reasons
you state - easier to meet the demand in an economical way. Your first
paragraph could have been written by me.
Question: did you put a slab of clay on the mold before jiggering it? Or a
lump? I would think a thick slab would be easiest, but I also assume you
thought of that already.
Anyone else have this challenge? I am also considering a jigger - the whole
machine - and would love feedback from those who have it. Commercial bone
china is done on a jigger, albeit a heavy duty one.
Anyone out there have experience in Ram pressing plates? I know this would
expensive, but it would also be productive, and the weight of the press
would, ideally, curb warping.
Lastly, I'm also realizing it's time for me to consider a de-airing pug mill
to recycle and wedge. I have searched the archives, but wondering if there
was any new information out there.
I am not looking for top-of-the-line, but I am looking for best value for
money, rather than the cheapest solution. it's a real timewaster to buy
cheap but have time consuming workarounds.
...Lo
expanding her business in 2008. I think.
**********
Lois Aronow Porcelain
Brooklyn, NY
www.loisaronow.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of
> Craig Martell
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 7:38 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: jolly/jigger power arm
>
> Hi:
>
> I purchased one of these Axner power arm, jolly jigger things
> at NCECA in 2006. The reason for the purchase was to jigger
> dinnerware. I've thrown dinnerware for the last 30 plus
> years and I can throw plates and bowls of all sizes just fine
> but I can't keep up with the demand and I'm in this racket to
> make money. I'm full time and I have no source of income
> other that making my work. Dinnerware sets take a lot of
> time when you factor in the drying, foot turning, and
> reclaiming of scrap and there's a lot of scrap to reclaim.
> Jiggering eliminates this and saves time and resources. I
> only want to jigger dinnerware and I am still throwing
> everything else. That's my story.
>
> So anyway I get this power arm thing and I also had to buy a
> "unibracket"
> adaptor for my Brent Wheel. Everything comes in a box with
> bags of bolts etc and not one thing else as in instructions
> or any helpful hints on putting this stuff together. So I
> called and asked for instructions. Customer Service said
> they'd send some and they never showed up. Called again and
> a guy called and gave me some general info and said to use
> the Axner Website for info on how to install the Unibracket
> and how to use the Jigger arm. Did that but the Unibracket
> in the video was different that the one that I had. Called
> again, no response to the message I left. Called once again,
> no response. Shit!
>
> I'm pretty mechanically inclined so I figured out how I could
> install everything and upon doing this I realized that the
> parts weren't made to fit the wheel very precisely and they
> hadn't sent everything I needed. I purchased all the nuts
> and bolts I needed for about 5 bucks and had to take stuff
> out to my machine shop and I redrilled parts and made
> everything fit correctly. Got this all done and put the
> device on one of my Brents and jiggered some test plates.
> The result was that I realized the whole assembly, including
> the Unibracket and Power Arm were really wimpy and needed
> some work. The thing you don't want with a jigger arm is
> "deflection." You set the arm to jigger a certain thickness
> of plate and it cannot deflect or you'll get an uneven piece.
> These Axner Power Arms deflect a lot and with little arm
> pressure. So, more adjustment and modification and I've
> eliminated most of the deflection. A lot of extra work on my
> part and I shouldn't have had to do this. I wouldn't
> recommend these things to anyone and if you ain't too
> mechanical you REALLY don't want one of these things. This
> is my opinion only and others may not agree. So it goes.
>
> I did contact Howard Axner directly and he was understanding
> and tried to help. He forwarded my email to Laguna/Axner and
> they have not responded. Howard is not really involved any
> longer so I won't bother him further. I'm done.
>
> regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or
> change your subscription settings here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
John Rodgers on sat 12 jan 08
Kathi - that is a good thing to know. I had no idea.
I have an old Walker that has no vacuum but all the parts are available
also from Grainger. For me this is a plus. It gets me by. But it would
be nice to be able to vacuum my pugs. Would save a lot of wedging to
remove air bubbles. from reclaimed clay.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
KATHI LESUEUR wrote:
> Another plus of
> Bluebird is that all parts are off-the-shelf readily available at
> places like Grainger. I don't know if that's true for other models.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Kathi
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
James and Sherron Bowen on sat 12 jan 08
The correct spelling is jolley unless you're referring to the Jolly/Jigger
sold by Axner's the name of which I always found personally offensive. I
told Howard that, too.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rodgers"
To:
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: jolly/jigger power arm
KATHI LESUEUR on sat 12 jan 08
On Jan 12, 2008, at 1:29 PM, steve graber wrote:
> i've never done it, but i would think an old DECENT drill press
> could be used for a ram press? use the slow rotation (RPM) and
> spin a male-female mold form into shape.
>
> i imagine there's no cheap way to do it right. perhaps a $1000 set
> up would be needed. pricey, but you'll need a strong foundation of
> the fixture to insure no jiggle of the jigger.
>
> see ya
>
>
Nope. You really don't understand how the process works. It's an
extremely complicated piece of equipment. Others have tried making
their own with moderate success.
Kathi
Larry Kruzan on sat 12 jan 08
Hi John, When jiggering a plate is the plaster form dry or wet in the
beginning? A few years ago I bought hump molds for plates from Axner but
had major issues with cracking and never worked it out. T at Axner said
that I did not have the form wet enough to slow the drying down enough. Any
thoughts?
Great info packed thread and posts!
Larry
*******************************
For bowls, I put a ball of clay in the bottom of the mold and then
squash it up the sides a bit. The profiling tool on the arm does the
rest. For the plates, they are made upside down. If I want pattern in
the plate rim when finished, I sometimes will carve the rim areas of the
plate mold. Then I will place a slab of clay on the plate mold, trim it
to the plate mold diameter, then pull the profiling tool down to form
the back side of the plate and the foot ring. The process will form the
front side of the plate automatically and pick up the pattern carved
into the mold. Once done, trim any excess clay hanging from the plate
mold and you are done..
When I am done with construction of my new potters wheel jigger/jolly I
will make pictures of the operation and post them on my website so it
can be clearly seen how it all works.
Hope all this helps.
John Roders
Chelsea, AL
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Tig_Dupr=E9?= on sun 13 jan 08
John,
When you get you prototype done, sign me up for a tester purchase, please. =
I like throwing big platters and making them unique, but sets of plates an=
d chargers drive me up the proverbial wall. Trying to get them all approxi=
mately the same size, same feet, same angle on the rim, same depth... Well=
, you know the drill.
Please keep me in mind when you get yours made.
Thanks,
Tig Dupre
in Port Orchard, Washington, USA
John Rodgers on mon 14 jan 08
Larry,
When I'm using the jolly jigger, I use bone dry molds. For hollow ware I
use a ball placed in the bottom of a dry mold, and I press that ball out
and smoosh it a bit up the sides by hand to give the profiling tool just
a bit of a head start to shape the piece. I also use a good bit of
water, applied mostly with a sponge to lubricate the survace of the clay
and the profile tool so that it works smoothly and makes a smooth
surface, without grabbing and pulling chunks of clay from the work.I
don't have a nozzle delivering water the way Michael does. But then I
don't do anywhere near the volume he does. As your volume of production
increases, your needs change. I really don't have a need for that. The
sponge works great.
For plates, they are done the same way. Very dry mold. I like a very
smooth place face - ie the face up side of the place when it is
finished. To get that, I roll a slab a bit thicker than the finished
piece is expected to be, then I use a 12 in wide stainless steel
sheetroch mus spreading tool, and I drag it over the clay to remove any
surface blemishes. I flip the piece of clay over smooth side down, on
the surface of the plate mold, put the mold on the wheel, turn on the
wheel and trim the excess from around the mold. next, I wet the surface
of the clay with a wet sponge, then pull the profile down into the clay
- slowly!. To fast and the profile tool will grab the clay and snatch
it off the plate mold. When done, I check the trimming of the rim, touch
up the foot, and then remove the mold with newly formed plate into the
drying room. I make good use of summer's heat, and use a steel shipping
container as a drying room. It gets really hot in there. To speed
matters, I also have a dehumidifier running full bore and three
oscillating fans churning away circulating the air. . I can dry my
plates in a day in the summertime with this setup. The dehumidifier
plays a major role in the removal of the water down here in the south. I
save all my condensate water from the demumidifier and use it in my
glazes. After all, it is distilled water free of any mineral impurities.
Bacteria - that's another matter. I'm sure the water has a few spores
from molds that were floating in the air.
I am in full agreement with Michael Wendt about the inadequate
structural strength of the potters wheel jiggering operation. That makes
it much more difficult, but it is doable. I am trying to address those
issues in my version of the jolly jigger for the studio potter.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Larry Kruzan wrote:
> Hi John, When jiggering a plate is the plaster form dry or wet in the
> beginning? A few years ago I bought hump molds for plates from Axner but
> had major issues with cracking and never worked it out. T at Axner said
> that I did not have the form wet enough to slow the drying down enough. Any
> thoughts?
>
> Great info packed thread and posts!
>
> Larry
>
> *******************************
>
> For bowls, I put a ball of clay in the bottom of the mold and then
> squash it up the sides a bit. The profiling tool on the arm does the
> rest. For the plates, they are made upside down. If I want pattern in
> the plate rim when finished, I sometimes will carve the rim areas of the
> plate mold. Then I will place a slab of clay on the plate mold, trim it
> to the plate mold diameter, then pull the profiling tool down to form
> the back side of the plate and the foot ring. The process will form the
> front side of the plate automatically and pick up the pattern carved
> into the mold. Once done, trim any excess clay hanging from the plate
> mold and you are done..
>
> When I am done with construction of my new potters wheel jigger/jolly I
> will make pictures of the operation and post them on my website so it
> can be clearly seen how it all works.
>
> Hope all this helps.
>
> John Roders
> Chelsea, AL
>
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