Sally Guger on sat 12 jan 08
Sounds interesting....what fomula are we talking about for the white glaze called "chun"?
(I have the book and have used Ron's licorice.)
Frances Howard wrote:
Hi Jeff,
If you dip your plate one half into chun (white) and the other half into Ron
Roy's licorice (a sometimes, greeny black) you will get a blue glaze with
small white spots all over where the glazes overlap., I would say it would
be more like masses of small white stars in a dark blue ground. I am not
sure of the size of leopard spots, they sound bigger. I haven't done it
with an overlap myself but often use if for small and medium , not large,
bowls. I think a large bowl might be a bit busy like that. With the
smaller sizes I would glaze chun inside and then dip the whole bowl in
licorice. It is a very reliable combination. It always works. It is fine
with cone 6 but better with cone 7 and better still fired twice when all
sorts of interesting colours appear. I can't fire higher than cone 7.
If you put chun under Ron Roy's slate blue it is still spotty, or more
frothy, but the blue is more pastel and not so arresting and there is not so
much contrast but still nice. Just be careful not to get the top glaze too
thick. And it has to be chun not any old white. I don't know of any other
ways to get spots though I am sure there are lots and this might not be of
any use as you already have the white.
Frances
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Gieringer"
To:
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:39 PM
Subject: Glaze overlap
>I have a white glaze that I am dipping half of a plate into and a blue
> glaze that I am dipping the other half in. I have seen some overlaps
> recently where the overlaps of the 2 glazes create a "leopard spot"
> effect. I'm trying to achieve this with my white and blue. Does anyone
> have any advice on how to achieve this look? Thank you.
>
> Jeff
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Live, Give, Love
Beyond All Expectation.
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
---------------------------------
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Jeff Gieringer on sat 12 jan 08
I have a white glaze that I am dipping half of a plate into and a blue
glaze that I am dipping the other half in. I have seen some overlaps
recently where the overlaps of the 2 glazes create a "leopard spot"
effect. I'm trying to achieve this with my white and blue. Does anyone
have any advice on how to achieve this look? Thank you.
Jeff
Frances Howard on sat 12 jan 08
Hi Jeff,
If you dip your plate one half into chun (white) and the other half into Ron
Roy's licorice (a sometimes, greeny black) you will get a blue glaze with
small white spots all over where the glazes overlap., I would say it would
be more like masses of small white stars in a dark blue ground. I am not
sure of the size of leopard spots, they sound bigger. I haven't done it
with an overlap myself but often use if for small and medium , not large,
bowls. I think a large bowl might be a bit busy like that. With the
smaller sizes I would glaze chun inside and then dip the whole bowl in
licorice. It is a very reliable combination. It always works. It is fine
with cone 6 but better with cone 7 and better still fired twice when all
sorts of interesting colours appear. I can't fire higher than cone 7.
If you put chun under Ron Roy's slate blue it is still spotty, or more
frothy, but the blue is more pastel and not so arresting and there is not so
much contrast but still nice. Just be careful not to get the top glaze too
thick. And it has to be chun not any old white. I don't know of any other
ways to get spots though I am sure there are lots and this might not be of
any use as you already have the white.
Frances
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Gieringer"
To:
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:39 PM
Subject: Glaze overlap
>I have a white glaze that I am dipping half of a plate into and a blue
> glaze that I am dipping the other half in. I have seen some overlaps
> recently where the overlaps of the 2 glazes create a "leopard spot"
> effect. I'm trying to achieve this with my white and blue. Does anyone
> have any advice on how to achieve this look? Thank you.
>
> Jeff
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
Vicki Hardin on sat 12 jan 08
You can try drying one of the glazes and sprinkling the dried chunks into
the wet glaze right after dipping.
Vicki Hardin
http://VickiHardin.com
WILLIAM JAMES on sun 13 jan 08
hi Jeff
=20
i am doing the same thing and found that if i do not screen the glaze to hi=
gh "above 50" i get the spots but mine are a little smaller than a leopard.
i guess you could add larger crystals of what ever spot you want but it wil=
l take some time to tune it.
hope this helps.Joe
> Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 18:39:11 -0500> From: gieringers@CHARTER.NET> Subj=
ect: Glaze overlap> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG> > I have a white glaze th=
at I am dipping half of a plate into and a blue> glaze that I am dipping th=
e other half in. I have seen some overlaps> recently where the overlaps of =
the 2 glazes create a "leopard spot"> effect. I'm trying to achieve this wi=
th my white and blue. Does anyone> have any advice on how to achieve this l=
ook? Thank you.> > Jeff> > ________________________________________________=
______________________________> Clayart members may send postings to: claya=
rt@lsv.ceramics.org> > You may look at the archives for the list, post mess=
ages, or change your> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/=
clayart/> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at mel=
pots2@visi.com=
Lee on sun 13 jan 08
On Jan 13, 2008 8:39 AM, Jeff Gieringer wrote:
> I have a white glaze that I am dipping half of a plate into and a blue
> glaze that I am dipping the other half in.
This summer, I had good luck putting Leach White over Reitz Green and
also Tenmoku. I found that Leach White moves less than my usual Nuka
white, so instead of the nice waterfall effect, I got leopard spots.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Tea is nought but this: first you heat the water, then you make the
tea. Then you drink it properly. That is all you need to know."
--Sen No Rikyu
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Sally Guger on mon 14 jan 08
Hi, I'm firing to Cone 6 also- thanks for the white glaze formula. I'm still experimenting with Ron and John's base recipes with variations of colors-but this white might be different. I also have a pretty large supply of pre-'97 GB. Thanks again-Sal
Ed Bull wrote:
Howdy,
What are you firing to?
We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
(Doesn't work the other way around.)
We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
Neph Sy 41.7
Silica 16.7
Gerstley Borate 25
EPK 8.3
Whiting 8.3
100
add:
Bentonite 2.2
Tin Oxide 8.3
RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Live, Give, Love
Beyond All Expectation.
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
---------------------------------
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Ed Bull on mon 14 jan 08
Howdy,
What are you firing to?
We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
(Doesn't work the other way around.)
We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
Neph Sy 41.7
Silica 16.7
Gerstley Borate 25
EPK 8.3
Whiting 8.3
100
add:
Bentonite 2.2
Tin Oxide 8.3
RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
Steve Slatin on thu 17 jan 08
Sally --
As it happens, I was tinkering with that recipe.
I did two different subs for the Antique White, and
the one I suspect is a little better relies on Gillespie
borate -- a kind of frit, as I understand, in any event,
a very reliable and consistent substitute for Gerstley
B.
Many folks just sub Gillespie for Gerstley one-for-
one. Often it works quite well.
Here is a sub that also cleans up a few things where
the recipe seemed a bit off --
Recipe Name: Antique White - Gillespie sub
Cone: 6 Color: White
Firing: Oxidation
Amount Ingredient
41.2 Nepheline Syenite
25 Gillespie Borate
14.7 Silica
5.8 Kaolin--EPK
4.8 Whiting
2.2 Bentonite
8.3 Tin Oxide
.9 Iron Oxide--Red
102.9 Total
Unity Oxide
.285 Na2O
.072 K2O
.095 MgO
.544 CaO
.004 SrO
1.000 Total
.435 Al2O3
.308 B2O3
.023 Fe2O3
2.717 SiO2
.001 TiO2
0 P2O5
6.2 Ratio
72.9 Exp
-----------------------------------
Calculations by GlazeMaster(tm)
www.masteringglazes.com
------------------------------------
And this is one that you may already
have the ingredients for --
Recipe Name: Antique White - frit sub
Cone: 6 Color: White
Firing: Oxidation Surface:
Amount Ingredient
39.5 Nepheline Syenite
27 Frit--Ferro 3195
11 Silica
2 Kaolin--EPK
9.5 Whiting
2.2 Bentonite
8.3 Tin Oxide
.9 Iron Oxide--Red
3.5 Dolomite
103.9 Total
Unity Oxide
.299 Na2O
.065 K2O
.072 MgO
.564 CaO
1.000 Total
.443 Al2O3
.301 B2O3
.022 Fe2O3
2.748 SiO2
0 TiO2
0 P2O5
6.2 Ratio
73.6 Exp
-----------------------------------
Calculations by GlazeMaster(tm)
www.masteringglazes.com
------------------------------------
I used Dolomite there because I was low on both calcium
and magnesium; Dolomite provides both. This recipe is
still low on Boron, though -- and they're both lower than
the original. Given that, I think the Gillespie sub is a
more interesting formula.
The original recipe is also kind of interesting -- maybe
a little low in alkali melters, but lots of boron to make
up for it, and not that high a concentration of silica or
alumina (all within the 'normal' range, but as we know,
even in the normal range there are some bad glazes).
I'm inclined to suspect that it will melt sufficiently even
with less boron, having reasonable amounts of alumina
and silica to get melted.
I'm also suspicious that it will craze, at least on OH-6/
B-Mix/Sea Mix-5 type clays.
So there you have it -- one amateur's ideas -- but
requiring either Gillespie Borate or Dolomite.
Best wishes -- Steve Slatin
Sally Guger wrote:
Do you think this glaze (the Antique White) needs GB to get it's effect? (The mottled look on top of midnight blue.)
I'm also using very old GB in this Fall's Creek Shino Recipe from the Frogpond website. Ron, can this glazes be made with a frit instead? (I have a lot of real Albany Slip.) The frits I have on hand are Ferro 3134 and 3195.
Fall's Creek Shino- Cone 6 Ox.
Albany Slip 56.1
Gerst. B 18.7
Kona Spar F-4 9.4
Lithium Carb. 6.5
Silica 9.5
Add: Superpax 9.4
Tin Ox. 4.7
Thanks so much for the help. Sally
Steve Slatin --
History teaches us that there have been but few infringements of personal liberty by the state which have not been justified ...
in the name of righteousness and the public good, and few which
have not been directed ... at politically helpless minorities.
-- Harlan Fiske Stone
---------------------------------
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Sally Guger on thu 17 jan 08
Hi Frances, Thank you very much- I can't wait to try it!
I'll also be trying out the one Ed Bull sent- that he uses with Ron Roy's Midnight Blue.
(Mixing glaze samples sure beats going outside in Wisconsin right now!) Sally.
Frances Howard wrote:
Hi Sally,
Sorry to have taken so long in replying. Here is the recipe for the chun
white glaze for a 100gr.
Kona F-4 Soda Feldspar 38g
Whiting 14g
Zinc 12g
OM4 Ball clay 6g
Silica 30g
For chun white add titanium dioxide 5g
We use it for a base for celadon add copper carbonate 2.75 and other colours
also. I am afraid I don't know its origin, maybe someone else will
recognise it.
To make a nice spotty/starry glaze in a deep blue ground it must go under
Ron Roy's licorice, doesn't work the same over it. Hope you enjoy it, I
like it a lot and it sells well. Frances
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally Guger"
To:
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: Glaze overlap
> Hi, I'm firing to Cone 6 also- thanks for the white glaze formula. I'm
> still experimenting with Ron and John's base recipes with variations of
> colors-but this white might be different. I also have a pretty large
> supply of pre-'97 GB. Thanks again-Sal
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed Bull wrote:
> Howdy,
> What are you firing to?
> We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
> (Doesn't work the other way around.)
> We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
> and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>
> Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>
> Neph Sy 41.7
> Silica 16.7
> Gerstley Borate 25
> EPK 8.3
> Whiting 8.3
> 100
> add:
> Bentonite 2.2
> Tin Oxide 8.3
> RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>
> You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
> Live, Give, Love
> Beyond All Expectation.
> Sally Guger
> Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
> Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
> http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
> Search.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Live, Give, Love
Beyond All Expectation.
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
---------------------------------
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Ron Roy on thu 17 jan 08
The white is definitly a stiffer glaze - especially with all that tin.
Having the stiffer glaze on top with the more fluid under is probably the
way to get the bigger pattern.
RR
>Howdy,
>What are you firing to?
>We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
>(Doesn't work the other way around.)
>We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
>and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>
>Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>
>Neph Sy 41.7
>Silica 16.7
>Gerstley Borate 25
>EPK 8.3
>Whiting 8.3
> 100
>add:
>Bentonite 2.2
>Tin Oxide 8.3
>RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>
>You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Frances Howard on thu 17 jan 08
Hi Sally,
Sorry to have taken so long in replying. Here is the recipe for the chun
white glaze for a 100gr.
Kona F-4 Soda Feldspar 38g
Whiting 14g
Zinc 12g
OM4 Ball clay 6g
Silica 30g
For chun white add titanium dioxide 5g
We use it for a base for celadon add copper carbonate 2.75 and other colours
also. I am afraid I don't know its origin, maybe someone else will
recognise it.
To make a nice spotty/starry glaze in a deep blue ground it must go under
Ron Roy's licorice, doesn't work the same over it. Hope you enjoy it, I
like it a lot and it sells well. Frances
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally Guger"
To:
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: Glaze overlap
> Hi, I'm firing to Cone 6 also- thanks for the white glaze formula. I'm
> still experimenting with Ron and John's base recipes with variations of
> colors-but this white might be different. I also have a pretty large
> supply of pre-'97 GB. Thanks again-Sal
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed Bull wrote:
> Howdy,
> What are you firing to?
> We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
> (Doesn't work the other way around.)
> We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
> and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>
> Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>
> Neph Sy 41.7
> Silica 16.7
> Gerstley Borate 25
> EPK 8.3
> Whiting 8.3
> 100
> add:
> Bentonite 2.2
> Tin Oxide 8.3
> RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>
> You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
> Live, Give, Love
> Beyond All Expectation.
> Sally Guger
> Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
> Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
> http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
> Search.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
Sally Guger on thu 17 jan 08
Do you think this glaze (the Antique White) needs GB to get it's effect? (The mottled look on top of midnight blue.)
I'm also using very old GB in this Fall's Creek Shino Recipe from the Frogpond website. Ron, can this glazes be made with a frit instead? (I have a lot of real Albany Slip.) The frits I have on hand are Ferro 3134 and 3195.
Fall's Creek Shino- Cone 6 Ox.
Albany Slip 56.1
Gerst. B 18.7
Kona Spar F-4 9.4
Lithium Carb. 6.5
Silica 9.5
Add: Superpax 9.4
Tin Ox. 4.7
Thanks so much for the help. Sally
Ron Roy wrote:
The white is definitly a stiffer glaze - especially with all that tin.
Having the stiffer glaze on top with the more fluid under is probably the
way to get the bigger pattern.
RR
>Howdy,
>What are you firing to?
>We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
>(Doesn't work the other way around.)
>We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
>and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>
>Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>
>Neph Sy 41.7
>Silica 16.7
>Gerstley Borate 25
>EPK 8.3
>Whiting 8.3
> 100
>add:
>Bentonite 2.2
>Tin Oxide 8.3
>RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>
>You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Live, Give, Love
Beyond All Expectation.
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
---------------------------------
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Lee on fri 18 jan 08
On Jan 18, 2008 10:40 AM, Sally Guger wrote:
> Do you think this glaze (the Antique White) needs GB to get it's effect? (The mottled look on top of midnight blue.)
>
> I'm also using very old GB in this Fall's Creek Shino Recipe from the Frogpond website. Ron, can this glazes be made
>with a frit instead? (I have a lot of real Albany Slip.) The frits I
have on hand are Ferro 3134 and 3195.
If you only want Ron to answer, try mailing him privately. ;^)
Our dear late Ababi from Israel did exactly what you are
asking for. I found it old post with google, using these search
words :
Ababi on sat 24 jan 04
Hello John
Here are two recipes:
After I write them the way they are I shall offer you with "your"
materials. Try both ways it might be the same.
The main point about this glaze is red clay- that gives the Fe2O3+ The
combination of tin and ultrox/zircopax.
I removed the lithium and added frit.
The numbers of the first glaze are nice therefore I did not round them.
FALLS CREEK SHINO ABABI.#6
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Cone 6 1201 deg.C. -
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Ferro 3134 40.00
red clay (Creaton) 30.00
Dolomite 5.00
ULTROX 10.00
Tin Oxide 5.00
Red Iron Oxide 1.00
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.287 6.55%
CaO 0.607 11.43%
MgO 0.106 1.44%
Al2O3 0.189 6.47%
B2O3 0.463 10.81%
SiO2 2.275 45.91%
ZrO2 0.190 7.86%
TiO2 0.012 0.32%
K2O 0.053 1.67%
Na2O 0.234 4.88%
SnO2 0.1155 5.84%
Al:Si 12.04
Expan. 7.33
ST 322.75
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Clay Body better buff& mottled
See it in my site.
ABABI'S FALLS CREEK SHINO 11
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Cone 6 1222 deg.C. -
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
red clay (GRT) 45.40
ultrox 8.60
Ferro 3134 28.30
Calcium Carbonate 2.60
zinc oxide 8.60
Quartz 6.60
Tin Oxide 4.31
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.224 5.23%
CaO 0.404 7.30%
MgO 0.040 0.51%
ZnO 0.332 8.69%
Al2O3 0.265 8.69%
B2O3 0.295 6.62%
SiO2 2.583 49.97%
ZrO2 0.147 5.84%
TiO2 0.017 0.45%
K2O 0.073 2.20%
Na2O 0.152 3.03%
SnO2 0.0898 4.36%
Al:Si 9.74
Expan. 6.88
ST 347.90
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
FALLS CREEK SHINO ABABI.#6 USA
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Cone 6 1201 deg.C. -
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Ferro 3134 47.20
RedArt Clay 34.30
Dolomite 5.70
ULTROX 11.40
Alumina Hydrate 1.40
Tin Oxide 5.70
Red Iron Oxide 1.00
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.282 6.27%
CaO 0.603 11.24%
MgO 0.115 1.54%
Al2O3 0.193 6.55%
B2O3 0.463 10.71%
SiO2 2.348 46.87%
ZrO2 0.184 7.52%
TiO2 0.013 0.36%
K2O 0.044 1.37%
Na2O 0.238 4.90%
SnO2 0.1117 5.59%
Al:Si 12.14
Expan. 7.26
ST 323.75
ABABI'S FALLS CREEK SHINO 11 USA
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Cone 6 1222 deg.C. -
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
RedArt Clay 32.90
ultrox 8.80
Ferro 3134 28.80
Calcium Carbonate 2.70
zinc oxide 8.80
Quartz 6.70
Custer feldspar 5.60
Flint 2.60
Alumina Hydrate 3.10
Tin Oxide 4.30
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.224 5.50%
CaO 0.404 7.83%
MgO 0.039 0.54%
ZnO 0.333 9.35%
Al2O3 0.262 9.21%
B2O3 0.295 7.08%
SiO2 2.593 53.83%
ZrO2 0.148 6.29%
TiO2 0.013 0.37%
K2O 0.062 2.03%
Na2O 0.162 3.47%
Al:Si 9.91
Expan. 7.05
ST 347.54
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Using calcined kaolin can reduce the number of materials however I have
not made the adjusting of the EPK as a calcined clay( removing the LOI)
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://ababi.active.co.il
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Tea is nought but this: first you heat the water, then you make the
tea. Then you drink it properly. That is all you need to know."
--Sen No Rikyu
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Ron Roy on sat 19 jan 08
Interesting - the chun below has 0.25 Alumina and 2.7 Silica
Licorice has 0.39 Alumina and 4.12 Silica.
Both have similar silica to alumina ratios.
I wonder if it is always the case - the stiffer glaze (in this case
Licorice) is better on top.
RR
>Hi Sally,
>
>Sorry to have taken so long in replying. Here is the recipe for the chun
>white glaze for a 100gr.
>
>Kona F-4 Soda Feldspar 38g
>Whiting 14g
>Zinc 12g
>OM4 Ball clay 6g
>Silica 30g
>
>For chun white add titanium dioxide 5g
>
>We use it for a base for celadon add copper carbonate 2.75 and other colours
>also. I am afraid I don't know its origin, maybe someone else will
>recognise it.
>
>To make a nice spotty/starry glaze in a deep blue ground it must go under
>Ron Roy's licorice, doesn't work the same over it. Hope you enjoy it, I
>like it a lot and it sells well. Frances
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Sally Guger"
>To:
>Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:42 PM
>Subject: Re: Glaze overlap
>
>
>> Hi, I'm firing to Cone 6 also- thanks for the white glaze formula. I'm
>> still experimenting with Ron and John's base recipes with variations of
>> colors-but this white might be different. I also have a pretty large
>> supply of pre-'97 GB. Thanks again-Sal
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Ed Bull wrote:
>> Howdy,
>> What are you firing to?
>> We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
>> (Doesn't work the other way around.)
>> We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
>> and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>>
>> Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>>
>> Neph Sy 41.7
>> Silica 16.7
>> Gerstley Borate 25
>> EPK 8.3
>> Whiting 8.3
>> 100
>> add:
>> Bentonite 2.2
>> Tin Oxide 8.3
>> RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>>
>> You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Ron Roy on sat 19 jan 08
Hi Sally,
Not easy to do - had to reduce the albany and add some EPK and a little
iron. In theory it's very close.
I have no idea if it will work the same - maybe better - you will have to
test it out to see.
I don't save these so - if it needs adjusting send it back. Anyone else who
tries it - let me know what happens please.
This has 7% lithium carb - on some clay bodies that will result in a
disaster - test extensively on all the clays you use before using it on
anything functional - look for crazing and shivering on the same pot.
Remember this when you try new clays.
For anyone who does not have any Albany and wants to try this with Red Art
instead - see below.
RR
Falls Creek shino with Frit 3134 by RR - warning - high lithium carb.
-----------------
ALBANY.............. 41.00
F3134............... 24.50
TALC................ 4.50
LITH CARB........... 7.00
EPK................. 13.50
SILICA.............. 9.50
RED IRON OX......... 1.00
----------
101.00
FORMULA & ANALYSIS
------------------
*CaO........ .39
*Li2O....... .27
*MgO........ .17
*K2O........ .04
*Na2O....... .13
Fe2O3...... .06
TIO2....... .01
B2O3....... .23
AL2O3...... .31
SiO2....... 2.51
RATIO 8.16 (original ratio 8.25)
EXPAN 411.39 (original expansion 423.79)
WEIGHT 256.72 (original weight 262.38)
Falls Creek shino with Frit 3134 & Red Art by RR - warning - high
lithium carb.
-----------------
RED ART............. 47.50
F3134............... 23.50
DOLOMITE............ 7.50
LITH CARB........... 6.50
EPK................. 7.50
SILICA.............. 7.50
----------
100.00
FORMULA & ANALYSIS
------------------
*CaO........ .38
*Li2O....... .26
*MgO........ .17
*K2O........ .06
*Na2O....... .12
Fe2O3...... .06
TIO2....... .02
B2O3....... .23
AL2O3...... .31
SiO2....... 2.62
P2O5....... .00
RATIO 8.36
EXPAN 419.86
WEIGHT 266.85
RR
>Do you think this glaze (the Antique White) needs GB to get it's effect?
>(The mottled look on top of midnight blue.)
>
> I'm also using very old GB in this Fall's Creek Shino Recipe from the
>Frogpond website. Ron, can this glazes be made with a frit instead? (I
>have a lot of real Albany Slip.) The frits I have on hand are Ferro 3134
>and 3195.
>
> Fall's Creek Shino- Cone 6 Ox.
>
> Albany Slip 56.1
> Gerst. B 18.7
> Kona Spar F-4 9.4
> Lithium Carb. 6.5
> Silica 9.5
>
> Add: Superpax 9.4
> Tin Ox. 4.7
>
> Thanks so much for the help. Sally
>
>Ron Roy wrote:
> The white is definitly a stiffer glaze - especially with all that tin.
>Having the stiffer glaze on top with the more fluid under is probably the
>way to get the bigger pattern.
>
>RR
>
>>Howdy,
>>What are you firing to?
>>We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
>>(Doesn't work the other way around.)
>>We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
>>and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>>
>>Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>>
>>Neph Sy 41.7
>>Silica 16.7
>>Gerstley Borate 25
>>EPK 8.3
>>Whiting 8.3
>> 100
>>add:
>>Bentonite 2.2
>>Tin Oxide 8.3
>>RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>>
>>You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
>
>Ron Roy
>RR#4
>15084 Little Lake Road
>Brighton, Ontario
>Canada
>K0K 1H0
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
>Live, Give, Love
> Beyond All Expectation.
> Sally Guger
>Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
>Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
> http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Ed Bull on sat 19 jan 08
Thanks to everyone for contributing to the glaze overlap issue.
With Antique White, we've subbed Gillespie for Gerstley 1:1 with success
but I've supplied the original recipe to the list and used Gerstley in the
last batch I made.
(Gillespie isn't a frit, but rather blended and refined raw materials,
more consistent).
http://hamgil.com/html/gillespieborate.html
Very interesting regarding the stiffness affecting the fired appearance.
We have lots of cone 6 glazes and did overlaps on small cups of them all.
Very interesting to see the results.
Antique White over Raspberry from MC6G is also quite striking.
It seems this is the result of the molten glaze underneath bubbling up
through the
layer of the stiffer glaze with an incomplete mixing of the two.
I'm also interesting in trying the reformulated recipe that Steve provided
with frit 3195.
Antique White is one of the few remaining holdovers here at our studio.
Held over due to popular demand!
We mostly use MC6G glazes or others we've had analyzed for leaching, etc.
We use lots of clay bodies here at the studio
and it seems to work well with most all of them.
Haven't noticed any crazing.
Cool on things like white stonewares, B Mix, etc and
very nice on darker clays too.
Sally Guger on sat 19 jan 08
This is exciting- I'll have so many new formulas- I can hang on to my old GB and the Albany Slip forever- but I won't have a reason to! (And I just bought 50 lbs. of GB from 1983!)
I'll try both the Albany Slip and the Redart version. I used the original Falls Creek Shino on a bowl that is A.R.T's Buff I. I also have it presently cooling on the outside of a larger bowl made out of A.R.T's Speckled Brownstone. It looks great on Buff I- but I'll have to look with a magnifying glass! Students will get to use it as a treat-and probably just on the outside of their pots.
I'll report back after I test the new formulas- thanks so much. Regards, Sally
Ron Roy wrote:
Hi Sally,
Not easy to do - had to reduce the albany and add some EPK and a little
iron. In theory it's very close.
I have no idea if it will work the same - maybe better - you will have to
test it out to see.
I don't save these so - if it needs adjusting send it back. Anyone else who
tries it - let me know what happens please.
This has 7% lithium carb - on some clay bodies that will result in a
disaster - test extensively on all the clays you use before using it on
anything functional - look for crazing and shivering on the same pot.
Remember this when you try new clays.
For anyone who does not have any Albany and wants to try this with Red Art
instead - see below.
RR
Falls Creek shino with Frit 3134 by RR - warning - high lithium carb.
-----------------
ALBANY.............. 41.00
F3134............... 24.50
TALC................ 4.50
LITH CARB........... 7.00
EPK................. 13.50
SILICA.............. 9.50
RED IRON OX......... 1.00
----------
101.00
FORMULA & ANALYSIS
------------------
*CaO........ .39
*Li2O....... .27
*MgO........ .17
*K2O........ .04
*Na2O....... .13
Fe2O3...... .06
TIO2....... .01
B2O3....... .23
AL2O3...... .31
SiO2....... 2.51
RATIO 8.16 (original ratio 8.25)
EXPAN 411.39 (original expansion 423.79)
WEIGHT 256.72 (original weight 262.38)
Falls Creek shino with Frit 3134 & Red Art by RR - warning - high
lithium carb.
-----------------
RED ART............. 47.50
F3134............... 23.50
DOLOMITE............ 7.50
LITH CARB........... 6.50
EPK................. 7.50
SILICA.............. 7.50
----------
100.00
FORMULA & ANALYSIS
------------------
*CaO........ .38
*Li2O....... .26
*MgO........ .17
*K2O........ .06
*Na2O....... .12
Fe2O3...... .06
TIO2....... .02
B2O3....... .23
AL2O3...... .31
SiO2....... 2.62
P2O5....... .00
RATIO 8.36
EXPAN 419.86
WEIGHT 266.85
RR
>Do you think this glaze (the Antique White) needs GB to get it's effect?
>(The mottled look on top of midnight blue.)
>
> I'm also using very old GB in this Fall's Creek Shino Recipe from the
>Frogpond website. Ron, can this glazes be made with a frit instead? (I
>have a lot of real Albany Slip.) The frits I have on hand are Ferro 3134
>and 3195.
>
> Fall's Creek Shino- Cone 6 Ox.
>
> Albany Slip 56.1
> Gerst. B 18.7
> Kona Spar F-4 9.4
> Lithium Carb. 6.5
> Silica 9.5
>
> Add: Superpax 9.4
> Tin Ox. 4.7
>
> Thanks so much for the help. Sally
>
>Ron Roy wrote:
> The white is definitly a stiffer glaze - especially with all that tin.
>Having the stiffer glaze on top with the more fluid under is probably the
>way to get the bigger pattern.
>
>RR
>
>>Howdy,
>>What are you firing to?
>>We get this at cone 6 using white OVER blue.
>>(Doesn't work the other way around.)
>>We're using Midnight Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes
>>and a studio glaze of unknown origin called Antique White.
>>
>>Antique White recipe (cone 6 Ox.)
>>
>>Neph Sy 41.7
>>Silica 16.7
>>Gerstley Borate 25
>>EPK 8.3
>>Whiting 8.3
>> 100
>>add:
>>Bentonite 2.2
>>Tin Oxide 8.3
>>RIO 0.9 (warms the white tone)
>>
>>You can find Midnight Blue in John and Ron's book
>
>Ron Roy
>RR#4
>15084 Little Lake Road
>Brighton, Ontario
>Canada
>K0K 1H0
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
>Live, Give, Love
> Beyond All Expectation.
> Sally Guger
>Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
>Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
> http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
>
>
>---------------------------------
>Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
>subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Live, Give, Love
Beyond All Expectation.
Sally Guger
Lakespur Blue Pottery & Sculpture
Lodi, Wisconsin, USA
http://www.saukpr.k12.wi.us/~gugersa/the_art_teachers.htm
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Lee on sun 20 jan 08
On Jan 20, 2008 7:30 AM, Ron Roy wrote:
> Interesting - the chun below has 0.25 Alumina and 2.7 Silica
> Licorice has 0.39 Alumina and 4.12 Silica.
>
> Both have similar silica to alumina ratios.
>
> I wonder if it is always the case - the stiffer glaze (in this case
> Licorice) is better on top.
I have found that while most glazes can go on top of the stiffer
shinos, shinos don't always go well on top of other glazes.
Also, it depends on the effect you want.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Tea is nought but this: first you heat the water, then you make the
tea. Then you drink it properly. That is all you need to know."
--Sen No Rikyu
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
John Hesselberth on sun 20 jan 08
On Jan 19, 2008, at 9:21 PM, Ed Bull wrote:
> Very interesting regarding the stiffness affecting the fired
> appearance.
> We have lots of cone 6 glazes and did overlaps on small cups of
> them all.
> Very interesting to see the results.
Hi Ed,
Pete Pinnell's Weathered Bronze Green is a favorite of mine for the
top glaze on layered glaze application. It was really developed as a
cone 9 glaze and just barely gets melted at a full cone 6 which also
puts it in the category of "stiff" at cone 6. Give it a try sometime.
Regards,
John
John Hesselberth
www.frogpondpottery.com
"Man is a tool-using animal....without tools he is nothing, with
tools he is all" .... Thomas Carlyle
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