centa uhalde on wed 12 nov 97
Hi,
I know this is an elementary question, but.... At the rec ctr, where I've
been learning about clay, they fire to ^5/6 and some l.f.. I have been
throwing and then 'carving' designs in a few bowls. However most of the
glazes there will just cover the design work entirely.
I'd like to experiment with colored slip for a Mishima affect. Do I just
get hold of, or make, a cone ^5 slip and add Mason stains to it? Oxides?
Even more, I'd like to find/make (haven't yet made a glaze) that is opaque
yet would emphasize the edges and the design in general. Are there any
commercial cone ^5 glazes (perhaps Moroccan Sand by Laguna?) that would
work? I'm not sure what quality you call what I'm looking for. Obviously
the glaze needs to be somehwhat thin as the 'carving' is superficial. The
straight transparent glazes are sort of boring I think, though they show
the design.
Can I apply oxides to the design and a thinned opaque matt glaze over the
whole thing?
I would also like to inlay glazes but not sure how to do this with higher
fire glazes. Do you just have to carve deeply to not have the glazes run?
As you can see, I'm still a novice.
An aside question has to do with the difference between firing at cone ^5
and cone ^10. I will be trying out another studio environment soon that
works in cone ^10. I guess it's too soon for me to assess what range I want
to work in. I do like some of what I see in low fire and will explore that
range more, but in terms of the higher temps, is ^5 significantly more
energy saving? I don't want to spend 3 yrs, as someone mentioned, finding a
pallette of cone ^5 glazes. I don't want to reinvent the wheel either. At
this point I'd rather put my emphasis in developing form and techniques of
application than glaze creation, though I find I am a little frustrated
with what's available at the rec ctr. as I like matt more than gloss and
most of what they have is gloss.
Thanks,
Centa
Darrol Shillingburg on fri 14 nov 97
Hi Centra,
Interesting questions. Most of the answers can be found in an obscure
publication that is my standard ceramic desk reference.
"Intermediate - Advanced Ceramics Studio Handbook" Applachian Center for
Crafts, Tennseess Technological University, Vince Pitelka 1995 ( there may
be a revised edition?) It's the paper form of the Pitelka Ceramic Data
Base. I don't remember what I paid for it, but seemed nominal and certainly
a lot of information for the $'s.
The only thing not in the book, is how to order the book! Hummmmm!
Try this:
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
I do a lot of Mishima, mostly with mason stain colored slips. You should
have no problems in the mid firing range. It's easiest to use slips without
grog or sand for inlaying. I prefer a mid range porcelain or Pitelka's "all
temperature white slip". You can add mason stains up to about 30% and still
have a workable material. I do some powder inlays, using about 60% mason
stain and 40% OM4 or Redart in dry form. Use a dust mask and work safely.
Mason stains and clays are not ment to be inhaled or ingested. Burnishing
will do a lot for unifying your inlays with the clay body. nearly all of my
work is burnished/low fired, but it could be burnished for effect, not
finnish, and glazed/high fired. There are examples on my web site.
Enjoy
Darrol in Elephant Butte, NM
DarrolS@Zianet.com
on the web at http://www.zianet.com/DarrolS
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
-----------------snip------------------
> I'd like to experiment with colored slip for a Mishima affect. Do I just
> get hold of, or make, a cone ^5 slip and add Mason stains to it? Oxides?
>
-------------snip----------------
>
> Can I apply oxides to the design and a thinned opaque matt glaze over the
> whole thing?
>
> I would also like to inlay glazes but not sure how to do this with higher
> fire glazes. Do you just have to carve deeply to not have the glazes run?
> As you can see, I'm still a novice.
>
Sharon Wetherby on sun 16 nov 97
------------------
The Appalachian Crafts Gallery sells Vince Pitelka's =22Intermediate - =
Advanced
Ceramics Studio Handbook=22 for =2423 plus shipping. Telephone The =
Appalachian
Center for Crafts at 615/597-6801 or 615-372-3051 and ask for the Gallery.
This is a great, practical handbook that Vince has authored/printed for his
students at the Appalachian Center for Crafts. I ordered my copy in =
September=3B
wish I'd had it when I first started on this clay journey.... The handbook
contains 10 chapters plus appendixes: Chapter 1, The Studio=3B Chapter 2, =
Clay
and Claybodies=3B Chapter 3, Throwing=3B Chapter 4, Handbuilding=3B Chapter =
5, Surface
Decoration=3B Chapter 6, Glazes and Glazing=3B Chapter 7, Kilns and Firing =
(this
chapter is worth the price of the book)=3B Chapter 8, Plaster-Working, =
Mold-Making
and Slip-Casting=3B Chapter 9, Mixed-Media in Ceramics=3B Chapter 10, =
Exhibition,
Presentation, Promotion and Sales of Your Work=3B Appendix I, Glossary of =
Terms=3B
Appendix II, Ceramics Raw Materials=3B Appendix III, Ceramics Tools You Can =
Make
or Find=3B Appendix IV, Terra Sigillata=3B Appendix V, Recipes=3B appendix =
VI, Useful
Charts and Information.
Sharon Wetherby
Lurker in Fort Worth, TX - our first sleet of the year fell last night.....
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