John Britt on sun 20 jan 08
Dan,
If I did not have an extruder, I would roll out a slab and texture it and
then cut the flat tiles. Put a hole in them if you want to hang them.
Then, after you dip them take a ball of wadding (50 EPK/ 50 alumina) and
stick the tile in that for a stand. Press your thumbs in the sides to make
it tight and stand up better. Then, after firing just wack the wadding
with a hammer or use a pliers and it will break right off. To make it
easier wedge sawdust into the wadding, that weakens it.
Hope it helps,
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
Dan Saultman on sun 20 jan 08
I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however, since the
back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one so
that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing the
backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed because
they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
intensive.
I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
Thanks,
Dan
Dan Saultman
Fine-Art Pottery
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
Digital Studio on sun 20 jan 08
Do you want them perfectly vertical? I make loads of test tiles at a
time, making them out of a three inch strip cut from a slab, and then I
fold one inch as the base and it leans back a little.
Dan Saultman wrote:
> I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however, since the
> back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
> countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one so
> that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing the
> backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
> against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed because
> they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
> themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
> intensive.
>
> I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
>
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
> Dan Saultman
> Fine-Art Pottery
> Detroit
> http://www.saultman.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
--
Kendra Bogert
www.digital-studio.biz
641-208-6253
"There is only one original kiln... the sun."
Kathy White on sun 20 jan 08
The glaze test tile system attached is not my design, but rather I got it
from John Toki at Leslie Ceramics in Berkeley, CA. Hope this is helpful.
Kathy
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Dan Saultman
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:34 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Test Tile Systems
I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however, since the
back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one so
that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing the
backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed because
they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
intensive.
I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
Thanks,
Dan
Dan Saultman
Fine-Art Pottery
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
gsomdahl on sun 20 jan 08
Dan Saultman wrote:
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
>
On a bat, throw a ring wall about three inches (10 cm) high. The center
is open to the bat surface and the ring pulled out to near the edge of
the bat. Leave a flat base at the foot of the wall. Use a wire or knife
to cut off the ring wall but leave it on the bat. When it is set up
leather hard cut the wall vertically into strips. This will create
inverted "T" shaped tiles that can be dipped and stood up in the kiln.
If you score in with a tool at the base of the wall on both sides just
above the foot, you can break off the foot after the tile is fired so
the tile can be mounted on a flat surface.
--
This is a post only account. Send replies to "gene" at my ".com" domain named "somdahl".
Terrance Lazaroff on sun 20 jan 08
Throw your test tiles. Make a 10" cylinder form about three inches high
texture a band of about an inch on the outside side, Cut out the center of
the cylinder leaving about an inch of base on the outer ring. When the
clay is leather hard cut it into slices like a cake or a pie.
The tiles will stand up and there will be enough room to mark for record
keeping.
Bryan Johnson on sun 20 jan 08
>
> I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
>
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
Throw a piece that has an upside down T shape ( a cylinder with a flange
at the bottom) and cut it into appropriately sized pieces.
Aster than a cleaning an extruder and more versatile as to size.
Bryan Johnson
Angela Davis on sun 20 jan 08
Dan,
My instructor Lee Partin throws a wide low bottom less rim which
is then cut into many 2 inch wide test tiles that stand on their own.
Shape the foot of the rim into an L or upside down T shape when throwing
and cut after the clay has set up a bit. Put in some nice throwing rings
for texture.
Fast and easy. Give it a try.
Angela Davis
In Homosassa where we really love test tiles. :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Saultman"
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: Test Tile Systems
>I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however, since the
> back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
> countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one so
> that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing the
> backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
> against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed because
> they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
> themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
> intensive.
>
> I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
>
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
> Dan Saultman
> Fine-Art Pottery
> Detroit
> http://www.saultman.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database:
> 269.19.7/1233 - Release Date: 1/19/2008 6:37 PM
>
>
Dan Semler on sun 20 jan 08
Hi Dan
If they are sagging at temp I guess that they are fairly thin.
Nonetheless, what I use is a trick Ron Roy showed me. Cut slots in an
IFB and stand the tiles in that. Its a good refractory test tile
stand. As to sagging not sure. Maybe cut the slots a little deeper and
make them a little thinner. I tend to use pretty thick test tiles so
the slots are fairly wide and sagging is not an issue.
Thx
D
John Hesselberth on sun 20 jan 08
On Jan 20, 2008, at 9:34 AM, Dan Saultman wrote:
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically
> after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
I route 1/2 inch grooves about 3/4 inch deep across the width of a
soft brick. I put about 7 grooves per brick. Then I only have to make
sure the bottom 1 inch or so of the tile is glaze free. Since I use
1/4 inch tiles the tiles lean at a slight angle from vertical which
is what I want. If you don't have a router you could probably cut the
grooves with a coping saw.
Regards,
John
John Hesselberth
www.frogpondpottery.com
"Man is a tool-using animal....without tools he is nothing, with
tools he is all" .... Thomas Carlyle
Don Goodrich on sun 20 jan 08
Dan, if you like to dip test tiles, just make them with feet
(which you don't dip) so they can be freetanding. One easy way
to do this is to cut them from a slab as triangles. After cutting
and texturing them as you might wish, just bend two of the corners
at an angle to the rest of the tile. Or, you can divide the triangle
in two vertically, and fold along the vertical line.
Or, drape them on a cardboard tube so they're semi-cylindrical.
Either way, you can stand them up.
If you do this carefully, you can make the tiles so they'll nest
within each other and be stackable.
Happy testing.
Don Goodrich
http://dongoodrichpottery.com/
Robert on sun 20 jan 08
For many years I made my test tiles by throwing a largish bowl with
short straight walls. Think dog dish. Then use a needle tool to cut
out the base/center of the bowl leaving an inch to inch and a half from
the side wall. The wall can then be quickly cut into several L-shaped
tiles which are free standing. They can be dipped or brushed without
glazing the base. I always use a ceramic pencil to record my test data
codes on the bottom. They're not the greatest to store but you could
put a hole in the wall or bottom and string them up. I don't think I
devised this but it's been a while for me to remember the source of the
idea.
Dan Saultman wrote:
>
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
>
Kathy White on sun 20 jan 08
My test tile system (which was shown/attached in a pdf file) that I got from
John Toki at Leslie Ceramics, did not show as an attachment. So I'll try to
describe it. Basically, it's a bisqued clay box with tiles made in a T
shape. The top of the T tile hangs on the edges of the box, down inside the
box. You can dip the tile one, two or three times, going up the tile at
shorter increments each time. The T tile should hang away from the edges of
the box, so that it does not touch the sides the side of the box. No glaze
it put at the top of the T tile, so it does not stick to the top of the
bisqued box. Depending on the size of the box, you can hang several tiles
in the box, without touching one another. You can also put a hole in the
tope of the T tile, so you can hang them on the wall if you want. I hope my
description is clear.
Kathy
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Kathy White
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 1:04 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Test Tile Systems
The glaze test tile system attached is not my design, but rather I got it
from John Toki at Leslie Ceramics in Berkeley, CA. Hope this is helpful.
Kathy
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Dan Saultman
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 6:34 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Test Tile Systems
I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however, since the
back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one so
that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing the
backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed because
they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
intensive.
I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
Thanks,
Dan
Dan Saultman
Fine-Art Pottery
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
Eva Gallagher on sun 20 jan 08
Hi Dan,
We've just gotten a gas kiln so doing lots of tests. I made test tile
holders - out of heavily grogged sculpture clay. Make a slab about 8" x 4"
or whatever size you want. Add clay strips about 3/4"" wide and 1/2 inch
deep ( or deeper for porc tiles) and leave about 5/8" groove between the
strips or however thick your test tiles will be. I bisque and then kiln wash
heavily. The tiles stand up in the grooves. If the groove is too deep for a
certain tile just put in a roll of clay first. I've reused some of these
holders for about 10 firings now without a problem.
I scratch on a number while still leather hard and I put holes in the tiles
using a large plastic straw so I can hang up the tiles. I write the glaze
info on the tile with a Sharpie pen. Getting ready to do more tests
tomorrow.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River Potters' Guild
Deep River Ontario
http://www.valleyartisans.com:80/Gallagher.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Saultman"
To:
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 9:34 AM
Subject: Test Tile Systems
>I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however, since the
> back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
> countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one so
> that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing the
> backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
> against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed because
> they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
> themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
> intensive.
>
> I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the problem.
>
> Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
> dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan
>
> Dan Saultman
> Fine-Art Pottery
> Detroit
> http://www.saultman.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
Maggie Jones on sun 20 jan 08
Hey Dan,
Throw a wide cylinder with whatever height you want for your test
"tiles". the floor only has to be thick enuff there by the
walls....leave some clay on the outside wall too. Then slice vertically.
You can even throw several rings at once.
after seeing you work, I know you will do a Fine, cleancut job of it I am
sure!
maggie
http://TurtleIslandPottery.com
Maggie and Freeman Jones
On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 15:36:38 -0600 Digital Studio
writes:
> Do you want them perfectly vertical? I make loads of test tiles at a
> time, making them out of a three inch strip cut from a slab, and
> then I
> fold one inch as the base and it leans back a little.
>
>
> Dan Saultman wrote:
> > I like to dip my test tiles. This presents a problem however,
> since the
> > back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
> > countering this by attaching little stands or bases for each one
> so
> > that they are free standing. I do not want to mess with waxing
> the
> > backs of the tiles, wiping them off etc. I cannot just lean them
> > against kiln posts even if their contact point was not glazed
> because
> > they tend to sag (porcelain does this at Cone 10). and could glue
> > themselves to the posts. My current test tile method is too time
> > intensive.
> >
> > I do not have an extruder which would certainly solve the
> problem.
> >
> > Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically
> after
> > dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dan
> >
> > Dan Saultman
> > Fine-Art Pottery
> > Detroit
> > http://www.saultman.com
> >
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> >
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or
> change your
> > subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots2@visi.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Kendra Bogert
> www.digital-studio.biz
> 641-208-6253
>
> "There is only one original kiln... the sun."
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
_____
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change
> your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
>
Pfeiffer Fire Arts on sun 20 jan 08
We throw a open ring ~14" of clay(~5#), leave a foot in the bottom, add some
bents on the way up just watch you keep the weight over the foot. Then when
this is leather hard cut the ring into whatever width you like and is a very
short time you can make 20+ self-supporting test tiles. We like to add holes
to the top to hang the tile on a bucket. This was Bill Gilder's tip at the
last Alabama clay do, hate to think how much time we wasted doing test tiles
before this.
Dan & Laurel
miriam on sun 20 jan 08
I throw a cylinder about 12" in diameter with no bottom
about 3" tall. I then score the outside with a fork so I can
see how the glaze breaks. When it is not quite leather hard,
I cut 1" slices.
The base is wide enough to be self supporting.
miriam on a cold Gulf Coast evening where,
as a concession to the cold, have put on a pair of socks...
Lili Krakowski on mon 21 jan 08
For my adorable little test kiln I throw tubes and leave a ring of clay at
the base. I score three "belts" on the tubes, then stamp each "ring" with
a number stamp. I paint three vertical stripes on the tubes--white, black
and either orange or yellow slip (depends on what i am planning to test) and
there you are. I can get like 9 into the test kiln.
As another suggested make a slab and bend it around a dowel, or an empty
toilet paper or paper towel roll.
And when I have settled on a glaze I apply to small bowls which I then keep.
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
Kristina Pell on mon 21 jan 08
>Has anyone devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after
>dipping them? Remember the "sag factor".
Well, I learned to make test tiles at ASU and have been doing them the same way since. I take strips of clay, maybe 2" wide and about 4"-5" long and bend them in the middle creating a little "chair" so it is self supporting. Make sure you lean the back of the chair slightly forward so it doesn't tip backwards. Then I use my finger to make an indent in the flat part and use that area to see how glazes pool. 3 dips and then into the pool!
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Alex Remon on mon 21 jan 08
I thought about this one forever trying to design a way to get all the
info I needed onto a test tile. I'm about to fire my first batch so I'm
not sure this is fool-proof yet, but I'm anxious to try it out.
I've made a series of stands that are like phone line poles. A tile at
the bottom, a 4 inch post sticking straight up the center. Through the
post I take about 2 inches of high temp kiln wire so that it's still
curved and stuck it through the top so there's about an inch curving up
from either side. Then I put a bead of clay around the bases of the
curving wire.
My tiles, which are about an inch and a half wide and three inches long
with a straw hole poked out of the top, hang from the wires. The bead of
clay keeps them about half an inch away from the post and if glaze drips,
it is likely to land on the tile instead of my kiln shelf.
My tiles are white clay with strips of red and black (because I do
agateware) pressed into them and a stamp run across the front for
texture.
The top half inch with the hole won't get glazed and I can write a code
number for the glaze combo of that tile (which I'll keep in a notebook or
something). Then I can dip the tile into pints of glaze I'm testing out
(I don't mix my own, I buy commercial).
Hope this helps!
Alex
Ruth Ballou on mon 21 jan 08
Here's a short movie about how to make the glaze test tile rack I
use. They last for years and are quickly made. I hope you pathological
glaze testers find it useful. Perhaps it will only drive you madder!
You can view it at
Ruth Ballou
Ron Roy on mon 21 jan 08
Test tile storagae will always be a problem with self footed test tiles -
that is why I use flat tiles in slots in a fire brick.
If anyone needs a picture it will be easy to do from here.
RR
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Snail Scott on mon 21 jan 08
On Jan 20, 2008, at 11:00 PM, Automatic digest processor wrote:
> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 09:34:07 -0500
> From: Dan Saultman
>
> I like to dip my test tiles... the
> back of the tiles are glazed as well as the fronts. I have been
> countering this by attaching little stands or bases...Has anyone
> devised a clever way to stand test tiles up vertically after dipping
> them?
I do the very basic method of rolling a slab,
texturing it, then cutting it up (about 2.5" x 5")
and bending the strips into 'L' shapes for a
built-in foot. By texturing one side, I get two
tests in one: smooth clay and bumpy. This
suits my work, since I handbuild and I want
test on textures similar to my working textures.
I also poke a hole in the top, so I can hang it
on a nail or a wire for handy reference.
Another common way of making freestanding
test 'tiles' is to squeeze a lump of clay in your
fist and smush one end on the table, resulting
in a handwidth-tall, 3/4" (or so) thick column of
clay with finger-mark textures - very fast and
easy. Some people call these 'kiln mice'.
You can also wrap slabs into cylinders of any
height.
If you throw most of your work, however, you
should consider throwing your test tiles.
Throw a wide, low, straight-sided bowl with no
middle bottom, slice like a pie, and you've got
test tiles with the same clay configuration and
textures as your actual work.
Or, make something really small and fast, but
similar to your regular work, so that if the test
comes out well, it can be sold or given away
as kiddy items or bonuses to good customers.
If you've been firing test tiles flat on the kiln
shelf up 'til now, I'd quit doing it even if dipping
weren't an issue (unless your work is actually
flat). Most of us need to know how the glaze
moves on a vertical surface. The differences
between a flat surface and a vertical one can
be huge, even with the same glaze.
A test which doesn't mimic actual usage pretty
closely is useless.
Some folks don't care for having a projecting
foot on a test tile, so that they can stack them
neatly. For this, you can make footless tiles
that slot into a kilnwashed (reusable) clay
grid for firing, or just knock off the foot with a
hammer after firing.
-Snail
Miles Smith on tue 22 jan 08
Where did you get the numbers to stamp. I want some way to that. My present
system of writing the number on the back of the tile becomes obscured in the
raku fire.
Miles
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lili Krakowski"
To:
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 8:07 AM
Subject: Test tile systems
> For my adorable little test kiln I throw tubes and leave a ring of clay at
> the base. I score three "belts" on the tubes, then stamp each "ring"
> with
> a number stamp. I paint three vertical stripes on the tubes--white, black
> and either orange or yellow slip (depends on what i am planning to test)
> and
> there you are. I can get like 9 into the test kiln.
>
> As another suggested make a slab and bend it around a dowel, or an empty
> toilet paper or paper towel roll.
>
> And when I have settled on a glaze I apply to small bowls which I then
> keep.
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, or change your
> subscription settings here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
Lee on wed 23 jan 08
On Jan 23, 2008 4:33 AM, Miles Smith wrote:
> Where did you get the numbers to stamp. I want some way to that. My present
> system of writing the number on the back of the tile becomes obscured in the
> raku fire.
Go to the stationary shop and you can find a stamp with rolling numbers on them.
I also have a set of small stamps, 0 thru 9. I use
these to stamp work in general, so I can keep track of which clay body
I used.
Because I can price my work lower made in the USA, sold
in the USA (not made in JAPAN and shipped there), I stamped my USA
work with a "place stamp." This summer, I used a little peace sign.
Back in Japan, I started using the character for "Ikiru" on Japan
made work. So, on the work, left to right is my personal stamp (the
same character for Yi in Korean Yi, pronounced Li in Korea), the
number, and then the kiln stamp.
--
Lee in Mashiko, Tochigi Japan
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Tea is nought but this: first you heat the water, then you make the
tea. Then you drink it properly. That is all you need to know."
--Sen No Rikyu
"Let the beauty we love be what we do." - Rumi
Russel Fouts on wed 23 jan 08
Miles,
>> Where did you get the numbers to stamp. I want some way to that.
My present system of writing the number on the back of the tile
becomes obscured in the raku fire. <<
I use one of those office date stamps, you know, the kind with the
numbers on a belt and you roll the ones you want into place before stamping?
It will work on soft clay or with pigments on bisqued clay.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
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Alisa Clausen on sun 27 jan 08
Hi Ruth
The film was very useful. I had been thinking about rethinking my test
tiles because I have really very many and they fill up a lot of boxes in
my not so big studio.
I extrude mine, and they stand up like little towers. I think it is
important to use glaze tiles that will also show the movement, if any, of
a glaze. That is why I had not been using flat tiles. But I had been
thinking about plate holders to get tiles to stand up in the kiln, much
like your system. I will make some of these holders and try them. I had
been also thinking that my glaze tests are glazed only on one side of the
tile (the outside of the extrusion) and this, I understand from John H.
comments, also helps to show if there are any expansion problems, quicker
than if both sides are glazed. I will pour the glaze over the front the
tile, instead of dipping, to keep this a constant in my tests.
Good idea and great to have a mini tutorial on film. The internet is
gold. Thanks.
Best regards from Alisa in Denmark
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