Darrell Walker on thu 7 feb 08
I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
clay from sticking?
Thanks,
Darrell
Jeanette Harris on fri 8 feb 08
Yes, coat them with baby oil, vegetable oil or any other innocuous
kind of oil that may be washed off. I'm not a fan of WD40, since I'm
of the opinion it's not good to absorb into the skin or to breathe
the fumes. A light coating keeps a barrier between the clay and the
form and will make it release easily. Plastic is very receptive to
oil too.
Another method is using strips of dampened newspaper or any other
light paper. These strips can be laid into or onto the form and the
ends can be used to lift the clay from it. You do have to deal with
the pattern of the paper, but it could be a good thing too. As a
matter of fact, taking things like string or reeds and including them
into the barrier could make interesting patterns.
Cheers,
Jeanette
>I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
>plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
>block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
>pots, and form a slab of clay over it.
--
http://jeanetteharrisblog.blogspot.com/
http://www.washingtonpotters.org/members/Jeanette_Harris/wpa_jeanette_harris.htm
Jeanette Harris
Washingzona
Warren Heintz on fri 8 feb 08
Just remembered something that I tried with kids and it worked. Some products come with these vacu-formed plastic bubbles sort of shaped like the product itself, tube of glue, etc. Thin plastic but rigid enough to work with. I draped clay into them making two halves them joined together. Made some small vases that way. There was no problem,the clay shrank away from the form with no sticking. Even made a pair of non-working clay needle-nosed pliers from one that came with that sort of packaging. The kids had fun,collecting this otherwise waste to be used, Gee,talk about a waste mould.
Darrell Walker wrote: Thanks everyone for the ideas and advice! I'll let you all know
what I tried and how it worked out.
-Darrell
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MT Hannigan on fri 8 feb 08
Oh, Steve, come on--I'll bet you look devastatingly handsome in a
fake nose! :-)
Teri Hannigan
On Feb 8, 2008, at 4:18 PM, Steve Slatin wrote:
> unless I go
> to another city and wear a fake nose or something,
> the risk of being seen -- at a thrift shop, buying
> used silky ladies' underthings -- is a little too high.
Marcia Selsor on fri 8 feb 08
I agree with Vince and I am in the process of writing an article for
PMI on making oval hump molds to your desired size.
Make your own shapes. My approach to getting there is different
from Vince, but the principal is the same. Design your shapes for your
work.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Dannon Rhudy on fri 8 feb 08
....... wanted to make bisque molds,..... planning to invert the plastic
> pots, and form a slab of clay over it. .
should I try to coat them with something to keep the
> clay from sticking?......
Yes, you should. Spray with WD-40 or
a vegetable spray, so that the clay will
remove easily. You can also line the
pot with plastic wrap, but the likelihood
is that if you do so there'll be a wrinkle
or three that will show up in your molded
piece.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
Maid O'Mud on fri 8 feb 08
plastic wrap.
Sam Cuttell
Maid O'Mud Pottery
RR 1
Melbourne, Ontario
N0L 1T0
CANADA
"First, the clay told me what to do.
Then, I told the clay what to do.
Now, we co-operate."
sam 1994
http://www.ody.ca/~scuttell/
scuttell@ody.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker
Sent: February 7, 2008 10:16 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Making slump molds from plastic forms
I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of plaster,
I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge block of plaster
to store. I was planning to invert the plastic pots, and form a slab of
clay over it. The pots don't have any undercuts, in fact, not even any
vertical sides, so I'm not worried about that, but should I try to coat them
with something to keep the clay from sticking?
Thanks,
Darrell
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.21/1266 - Release Date: 08/02/2008
10:06 AM
Larry Kruzan on fri 8 feb 08
Hi Darrell,
I spray the form with WD40 first. It really helps with the separation, which is impossible without some sort of parting agent. I was very leary of this when I first tried it but after making several slump molds this way I am satisfied the WD40 does not "hurt" the clay body.
DO be sure to remove the clay from the form as some as it is stiff enough or the shrinking clay will crack.
I have used this process for small and medium sized items and currently for a 24" serving boat that is in the kiln now.
Of course I alter the final form a lot to make it "mine". In my work the form is just the foundation or perhaps an addition to the final piece.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Darrell Walker
Date: Friday, February 8, 2008 7:02
Subject: [CLAYART] Making slump molds from plastic forms
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots.
> Instead of
> plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
> block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
> pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
> undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
> about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
> clay from sticking?
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to:
> clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
Warren Heintz on fri 8 feb 08
I wouldn't think that there would be a problem with sticking unless the clay was exceptionally wet. I have used wooden bowls for the same purpose and never had any problems. However the fact that they are plastic may slow down drying time.Just my thoughts.
Darrell Walker wrote: I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
clay from sticking?
Thanks,
Darrell
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subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
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MT Hannigan on fri 8 feb 08
Darrell,
What about draping a piece of of cleaners plastic or newspaper over
the plastic pot and put your slab over that?
> should I try to coat them with something to keep the
> clay from sticking?
Darrell Walker on fri 8 feb 08
Thanks everyone for the ideas and advice! I'll let you all know
what I tried and how it worked out.
-Darrell
KATHI LESUEUR on fri 8 feb 08
>
> Darrell Walker wrote: I want to make some
> slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
> plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
> block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
> pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
> undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
> about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
> clay from sticking?
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
>
If you put a light dusting of cornstarch on the slab before putting
it on or in the form it won't stick. Just put cornstarch in an old
sock and tamp it on the clay. Kind of like a rosen bag that ball
players use. I've used this technique for slabs in and on plastic for
years and it always works. The cornstarch just burns away in the firing.
Kathi
joyce on fri 8 feb 08
>Darrell Walker wrote: I want to make some slump
>molds from some
> plastic pots. Instead of
>plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
>block of plaster to store.
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When I asked a similar question there were many very workable
responses, each of which
must be in the archives.
The one that I've used the most is to use a worn piece of silky
lingerie between the clay and
the plastic..... leaving enough extra material to help remove the
clay once it's dry enough
and the form has "taken." If you don't have such out-dated cloth
available, the local thrift
shops probably do.
Joyce
In the Mojave where son found the "problem" with my electric Cress
kiln as well as my
gas wall heater. Hooray. I thought I'd need an electrician for sure.
AND where Mojo
is whining to go to the studio ........ not that she truly cares
about being in the
studio unless planes are flying over, or the earth is quaking or a
coyote has passed by
or the roadrunner is in our One Biggish Tree making puppy sounds to
lure her nearer ....
then she's all about the studio concept .. no, her major big time
goal is to scare up
some rabbits to chase....... and quail to scatter....... pure westie
heaven.......
Steve Slatin on fri 8 feb 08
Joyce, I hate to point this out, but unless I go
to another city and wear a fake nose or something,
the risk of being seen -- at a thrift shop, buying
used silky ladies' underthings -- is a little too high.
Imagine the scene at the market when I'm
trying to make a sale -- "Oh, look, there's the
pervy scum I saw at the Serenity Shop,
buying women's unmentionables ... and
he expects us to buy HIS pots?"
I think a yard or two of cheap, thin rayon
at a fabric store might be a wise investment
by comparison.
joyce wrote:
The one that I've used the most is to use a worn piece of silky
lingerie between the clay and
the plastic..... leaving enough extra material to help remove the
clay once it's dry enough
and the form has "taken." If you don't have such out-dated cloth
available, the local thrift
shops probably do.
Joyce
Steve Slatin --
History teaches us that there have been but few infringements of personal liberty by the state which have not been justified ...
in the name of righteousness and the public good, and few which
have not been directed ... at politically helpless minorities.
-- Harlan Fiske Stone
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vpitelka on fri 8 feb 08
I would just like to chime in on this thread and say that everyone on this
list has much more imagination, originality, and capability than to ever
lift a mold off a commercial plastic form. Be original, make your own
forms. Throw or handbuild them and then lift a plaster mold from the clay
originals, and then press-form a clay mold and bisque-fire it. Make as many
of them as you need.
Or, get some 1" and 2" rigid foam insulation board (the pink or blue stuff)
and laminate more layers together if you need to. "Liquid nails," available
from Home Depot or Lowe's, works great for laminating layers. Buy or borrow
a good saber-saw and set it up at the cutting angle you need, with a good
long blade, and cut out the shapes you want. Sand them with COARSE
sandpaper to get the curve and profile you want. This is easy to do. Do
the cutting and sanding outdoors, or better yet, set up the nozzle of your
shop-vac, right where you are cutting and sanding the foam. The latter is
the more environmentally-friendly way to do it.
If you take molds off of plastic flower pots, your finished product will
remind people of plastic flower pots. Same with Styrofoam meat trays and
other forms that people often use for slumping or forming slabs. Give
yourself more credit than that and make original forms.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Larry Kruzan on sat 9 feb 08
Hi Marcia and all,
This is about the first time I have to totally disagree with you. Why
reinvent the wheel each time you need a simple form? If I need a 12"
diameter, 6" deep slump mold and have a plastic dome the right size sitting
there, why should I waste my valuable studio time recreating the bowl?
Please don't tell me it is for artistic purity, I think you use an extruder
- do you ever use dies that you did not make? Use trimming tools you did
not make because they have the right arc, angle or twist?
There is a lady who makes the Slump/hump mold tools that are great for
making simple slump molds. Do you advocate that we don't use them because
they are not our design?
It is much more important how we use what comes out of the slump mold than
how we made the mold. If the shape you need is not a common form (such as
the ovals your upcoming article will be about) by all means make them - but
a bowl? I'm way to busy to mess with it.
I feel that any form that is available should be used if it is to be altered
and made the artist's "own". I needed a number of 10" diameter slump molds
for use in the hand building class I teach. I bought a few cheap, kids
rubber balls that I then pushed into buckets of plaster forming a perfect
bowl shape - I hardly think of this as violating the sanctity of art rather
it is the efficient use for time and materials.
This same discussion goes on all the time here on Clayart, most recently the
wood fire debate. Those who use kick wheels distain those who use powered
wheels, electric kilns vs gas kilns, hand building or wheel thrown, vacuum
pug mill or wedging by hand, high fire or low fire - the list is endless -
we all have our own pet peeve.
The endless debate of the purity of one method of work is frankly tiresome -
instead of expounding about the advantages of a specific method we debate
why "my method is more principled". "Let each man examine his own heart" is
my motto and if you get your jollies by spending hours making forms for
slump molds - cool, enjoy - but don't tell me that I am less of an artist or
craftsman because I choose to use a plastic ball, bowl, ear of corn or
whatever - we will both end up with the slump mold we need to make our art.
The art is what it is all about.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Marcia Selsor
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:35 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Making slump molds from plastic forms
I agree with Vince and I am in the process of writing an article for
PMI on making oval hump molds to your desired size.
Make your own shapes. My approach to getting there is different
from Vince, but the principal is the same. Design your shapes for your
work.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
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Mitch Kotula on sat 9 feb 08
This was the first up, so am responding without reading other's input.
I use good old corn starch to coat on forms prior to draping clay slabs upon them. It is cheap, gives good coverage and is not a problem to clean up.
Also, you need to weight the slumped clay with something. I once tried a selection of dried beans and ended up with fermenting beans due to the moisture. Therefore, use small round pea gravel. Although you will get small dents/impressions on the clay surface, these can be sponged smooth when the mold is leatherhard and hand-able.
If the pea gravel becomes dirty, wash it out and let it dry on a towel. Store it in plastic kitty litter containers, but don't overfill as the gravel is heavy to lug around.
Good luck.
Mitch
Mitch Kotula
Development Plus
PO Box 2076
Hamilton, MT 59840-4076
406-961-5136 (Home)
406-546-6980 (Cell)
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Warren Heintz on sat 9 feb 08
Ditto. Is anyone out there making their own wheels or are you using those store bought ones? LOL,just kidding of course. It's not what one uses,it's what is produced as a result the use.
Larry Kruzan wrote: Hi Marcia and all,
This is about the first time I have to totally disagree with you. Why
reinvent the wheel each time you need a simple form? If I need a 12"
diameter, 6" deep slump mold and have a plastic dome the right size sitting
there, why should I waste my valuable studio time recreating the bowl?
Please don't tell me it is for artistic purity, I think you use an extruder
- do you ever use dies that you did not make? Use trimming tools you did
not make because they have the right arc, angle or twist?
There is a lady who makes the Slump/hump mold tools that are great for
making simple slump molds. Do you advocate that we don't use them because
they are not our design?
It is much more important how we use what comes out of the slump mold than
how we made the mold. If the shape you need is not a common form (such as
the ovals your upcoming article will be about) by all means make them - but
a bowl? I'm way to busy to mess with it.
I feel that any form that is available should be used if it is to be altered
and made the artist's "own". I needed a number of 10" diameter slump molds
for use in the hand building class I teach. I bought a few cheap, kids
rubber balls that I then pushed into buckets of plaster forming a perfect
bowl shape - I hardly think of this as violating the sanctity of art rather
it is the efficient use for time and materials.
This same discussion goes on all the time here on Clayart, most recently the
wood fire debate. Those who use kick wheels distain those who use powered
wheels, electric kilns vs gas kilns, hand building or wheel thrown, vacuum
pug mill or wedging by hand, high fire or low fire - the list is endless -
we all have our own pet peeve.
The endless debate of the purity of one method of work is frankly tiresome -
instead of expounding about the advantages of a specific method we debate
why "my method is more principled". "Let each man examine his own heart" is
my motto and if you get your jollies by spending hours making forms for
slump molds - cool, enjoy - but don't tell me that I am less of an artist or
craftsman because I choose to use a plastic ball, bowl, ear of corn or
whatever - we will both end up with the slump mold we need to make our art.
The art is what it is all about.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Marcia Selsor
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:35 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Making slump molds from plastic forms
I agree with Vince and I am in the process of writing an article for
PMI on making oval hump molds to your desired size.
Make your own shapes. My approach to getting there is different
from Vince, but the principal is the same. Design your shapes for your
work.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots2@visi.com
______________________________________________________________________________
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You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
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Rod on sat 9 feb 08
Larry,
How is it possible that it's a waste? I'm not sure how long you have been
throwing but I can assure you that any competent, experienced potter can
throw 10 bowls that size while one is fiddling around with one slump mold.
The only time I personally would consider using a slump mold is for a form
that was of an irregular shape, otherwise throwing is simply faster.
Peace,
Rod
Hi Marcia and all,
This is about the first time I have to totally disagree with you. Why
reinvent the wheel each time you need a simple form? If I need a 12"
diameter, 6" deep slump mold and have a plastic dome the right size sitting
there, why should I waste my valuable studio time recreating the bowl?
Please don't tell me it is for artistic purity, I think you use an extruder
- do you ever use dies that you did not make? Use trimming tools you did
not make because they have the right arc, angle or twist?
There is a lady who makes the Slump/hump mold tools that are great for
making simple slump molds. Do you advocate that we don't use them because
they are not our design?
moira clinch on sat 9 feb 08
Bisque moulds.
I have used all sorts of containers as moulds - if the shape is right.
For non-porous plastic, metal or glass I get my students just to line
them with a plastic bag or cling film. I also use quite a few bisque
forms, fired to around 1000C. These have the absorbancy property of
plaster and can be used as inlaid or hump moulds. They are often made
from the recycled clay from a teaching session - slabs pressed into
casserole dishes, food containers, etc. Thrown bisqueware bowls can also
be made to any size. The only thing to remember with hump moulds, is to
keep checking for the dryness of the clay to remove the clay form
before it shrinks and in danger of cracking over thge hump! I teach in
various Adult Ed. Centres and collect anything to make a former - drain
pipes, sweet containers, whisket bottle tubes, bubble-bath bottles -
anything with an interesting shape!. Last week a student used an old
cooking wok to support the base of a large coil pot, lined with a
plastic bag.
Moira Clinch
Darrell Walker wrote:
> I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
> plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
> block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
> pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
> undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
> about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
> clay from sticking?
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
MT Hannigan on sun 10 feb 08
Wow Larry,
I've only been playing with clay for three years so I'm way less
experienced with clay than practically every other person here. I've
been following all the "purity" debates with interest and, yes, often
with guilt.
Bless me Larry for I have sinned--it's been oh, umpteen years since
my last confession: I don't have my own electric or gas or propane
kiln, have no clue about wood firing, can't wedge/center 25 lbs of
clay at once so I center and stack and center, 5-6 lbs at a time,
use whatever pops into my head to make my forms when I choose not to
throw. The list goes on. I'm also guilty of the purist mentality--I
used to think it was "wrong" to use paint or other non fired "finish"
on ceramics. Now, I think anything goes, particularly if the object
is nonfunctional.
Your comments make a lot of sense to me. One thing, though. I just
want to see the cool stuff you've made with an ear of corn.
Teri Hannigan
> The endless debate of the purity of one method of work is frankly
> tiresome -
> instead of expounding about the advantages of a specific method we
> debate
> why "my method is more principled". "Let each man examine his own
> heart" is
> my motto and if you get your jollies by spending hours making forms
> for
> slump molds - cool, enjoy - but don't tell me that I am less of an
> artist or
> craftsman because I choose to use a plastic ball, bowl, ear of corn or
> whatever - we will both end up with the slump mold we need to make
> our art.
> The art is what it is all about.
>
>
> Larry Kruzan
> Lost Creek Pottery
> www.lostcreekpottery.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Marcia
> Selsor
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:35 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Making slump molds from plastic forms
>
> I agree with Vince and I am in the process of writing an article for
> PMI on making oval hump molds to your desired size.
> Make your own shapes. My approach to getting there is different
> from Vince, but the principal is the same. Design your shapes for your
> work.
>
>
> Marcia Selsor
> http://marciaselsor.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ______
> __
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://
> www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
Larry Kruzan on sun 10 feb 08
Hi Rod - absolutely correct, I know I can too, but not all potters work with
the wheel for various individual reasons. Many choose to hand build or coil
or whatever. Their choice. I currently throw 12" bowls at a rate of 12-16
per hour and that is pretty slow compared to some but I am old and don't
want to work too hard. For others my production for one hour is what they
do a week. My bowls are fine for salad or popcorn - theirs are works of
art. Which is better - I enjoy both and I do work both ways.
Three weeks ago I decided that I had been working in production "mode" too
much (started feeling stale) and elected to spent a couple weeks hand
building, platters, teapots, teacups, which I can make a lot of on the
wheel, I suddenly was slowed down to making 4 platters a day, 10 teapots a
day, 20 teacups and saucers a day, and I even made 10 birdhouses just for
kicks. The slower pace was wonderful and the work was so gratifying. It
was some of my best yet. I even enjoyed using slump molds made from plastic
forms. (shameful I know)
The original question was "how to make a slump mold from a plastic bowl?"
Which was the question that several of us responded to giving correct
answers to the stated question. Then the inevitable, sure as the IRS, the
purveyors of clay righteousness spoke up to inform us that we were
charlatans' and that using an existing shape to make a mold was
dishonorable.
I, like many others, treasure each moment I get in the studio and refuse to
spend one minute of that time modeling by hand, a form that I might already
have in the closet, just because it says Tupperware on the bottom. Many of
us attempt to make a living from clay spending unnecessary time on making a
mold means fewer dollars on the bottom line.
Perhaps my use of the term "waste" was poor but lost time to me is waste.
If I was a university professor who was being paid a salary no matter what,
perhaps extra time spent on a project would not matter. But as a studio
potter working for himself, every minute does count. "How many coffee cups
do I have to sell to pay for dinner tonight?" is the question that each
action must be weighed with.
Best Wishes Friend,
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Rod
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:04 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Making slump molds from plastic forms
Larry,
How is it possible that it's a waste? I'm not sure how long you have been
throwing but I can assure you that any competent, experienced potter can
throw 10 bowls that size while one is fiddling around with one slump mold.
The only time I personally would consider using a slump mold is for a form
that was of an irregular shape, otherwise throwing is simply faster.
Peace,
Rod
Hi Marcia and all,
This is about the first time I have to totally disagree with you. Why
reinvent the wheel each time you need a simple form? If I need a 12"
diameter, 6" deep slump mold and have a plastic dome the right size sitting
there, why should I waste my valuable studio time recreating the bowl?
Please don't tell me it is for artistic purity, I think you use an extruder
- do you ever use dies that you did not make? Use trimming tools you did
not make because they have the right arc, angle or twist?
There is a lady who makes the Slump/hump mold tools that are great for
making simple slump molds. Do you advocate that we don't use them because
they are not our design?
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Donna Kat on sun 10 feb 08
On Thu, 7 Feb 2008 19:15:57 -0800, Darrell Walker
wrote:
>I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
>plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
>block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
>pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
>undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
>about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
>clay from sticking?
>
>Thanks,
>Darrell
>
With this method I hope you keep in mind that your clay is going to shrink
so you molds will be smaller than the originals and then your pots from
the molds will be smaller still.
a real easy slump method is to put a stretchable fabric in a frame, put
the slab on the fabric and then lift up the frame (you can rest the frame
on anything the height you want the piece to be or if you are going to add
feet, hang the frame using eye hooks (horizontal of course - not
vertical). You can make the frame out of molding so that it can be used
as a decorative edge. So many things to play with, so little time....
Donna
Taylor Hendrix on sun 10 feb 08
Rod,
Sometimes spanking the bowl is almost as fast as throwing and oh so
much more fun with the right company. We should try to get everyone on
clayart to spank their molds on hump molds and leave the slumping to
the kids at the back of the class.
Rock on Clayart!
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On Feb 9, 2008 11:03 PM, Rod wrote:
> Larry,
>
> How is it possible that it's a waste? I'm not sure how long you have been
> throwing but I can assure you that any competent, experienced potter can
> throw 10 bowls that size while one is fiddling around with one slump mold.
>
> The only time I personally would consider using a slump mold is for a form
> that was of an irregular shape, otherwise throwing is simply faster.
>
> Peace,
> Rod
Larry Kruzan on sun 10 feb 08
Hi Terri,
Confession IS good for the soul my child. and all the rest!
Now for corn - I have a lot of fun finding unusual things for adding texture
to clay - one of them is a ear of hard, dried corn. Roll it across your
soft slab of clay in a random or linier pattern (choice is yours), flip it
into your slump mold trim to shape and finish the inside as you please. One
of my favorite things to do is to apply corn rolls around the lip of the
bowl and carve corn stalks inside the form. When the bowl is stiff enough
to support itself flip it out and add foot or feet as you see fit. Use a
glaze that reveals all you have done.
The important thing is that the final product is yours, who cares if the
bowl form was from a light fixture or Tupperware. Have Fun, do not
subjugate yourself to the personal opinion of others, let art free your
soul. Go and sin no more.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
Your comments make a lot of sense to me. One thing, though. I just
want to see the cool stuff you've made with an ear of corn.
Teri Hannigan
> The endless debate of the purity of one method of work is frankly
> tiresome -
Judy Wilson on mon 11 feb 08
Darrell,
Ellen Currans is the queen of making molds with clay. Her work is wonderful. Check out this link from Ceramics Monthly which describes her process.
http://www.ceramicsmonthly.org/expandedcontent/2006-02/curran.asp
Good luck.
Judy
Darrell Walker wrote:
I want to make some slump molds from some plastic pots. Instead of
plaster, I wanted to make bisque molds, so that I won't have a huge
block of plaster to store. I was planning to invert the plastic
pots, and form a slab of clay over it. The pots don't have any
undercuts, in fact, not even any vertical sides, so I'm not worried
about that, but should I try to coat them with something to keep the
clay from sticking?
Thanks,
Darrell
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
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