David Hendley on wed 20 feb 08
I've made double-walled insulated mugs a few times.
It's simple really:
= Throw a mug - keep it simple, no fancy curves.
don't cut it off the batt.
= Immediately throw a second, about 1/2" smaller
diameter than the first, with a little less clay and
no bottom. Make the bottom rounded, so there
is some clay on the bottom close to the walls.
= Cut off the second mug and set it inside the first
mug. Put the first mug, on its batt, back on the wheel
and re-throw the bottom surface. Then work on the 2
lips, bringing them together into one. Don't do anything
to the area between the bottom and the lip.
Cut off the batt, allow to set, and finish in your usual
muggy way. You can carve designs into the outer wall
or leave it solid for better insulation (be sure to make
a pin-hole to allow air to escape as the piece dries).
For lidded mugs, I make the mugs as usual, but just
measure the openings with calipers. Lids, made to fit,
are thrown off-the-hump, upside-down, with interior
flanges.
Unlike jars, I glaze the mugs as usual, because it would
be unpleasant to have an unglazed lip. The lids are waxed
so the flange is not glazed on the bottom, so they can
be fired separately.
I always make at least a dozen lids and 15 or 16 mugs,
all glazed the same, and then play musical lids after the
firing, to find good fits.
There are a few mugs without lids but that's OK - they
are still perfectly fine as un-lidded mugs.
I just finished glazing a series that will be fired tomorrow.
It is +65 degrees in Texas.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
Patty Kaliher on wed 20 feb 08
David,
In my experience, double walled vessels are prone to developing cracks as
they dry. Both walls shrinking produce a crack at the top where connected
or at the bottom. How do you prevent this?
Signed it this time
Patty Kaliher
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of David Hendley
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:48 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: insulated & lidded mugs
I've made double-walled insulated mugs a few times.
It's simple really:
= Throw a mug - keep it simple, no fancy curves.
don't cut it off the batt.
= Immediately throw a second, about 1/2" smaller
diameter than the first, with a little less clay and
no bottom. Make the bottom rounded, so there
is some clay on the bottom close to the walls.
= Cut off the second mug and set it inside the first
mug. Put the first mug, on its batt, back on the wheel
and re-throw the bottom surface. Then work on the 2
lips, bringing them together into one. Don't do anything
to the area between the bottom and the lip.
Cut off the batt, allow to set, and finish in your usual
muggy way. You can carve designs into the outer wall
or leave it solid for better insulation (be sure to make
a pin-hole to allow air to escape as the piece dries).
For lidded mugs, I make the mugs as usual, but just
measure the openings with calipers. Lids, made to fit,
are thrown off-the-hump, upside-down, with interior
flanges.
Unlike jars, I glaze the mugs as usual, because it would
be unpleasant to have an unglazed lip. The lids are waxed
so the flange is not glazed on the bottom, so they can
be fired separately.
I always make at least a dozen lids and 15 or 16 mugs,
all glazed the same, and then play musical lids after the
firing, to find good fits.
There are a few mugs without lids but that's OK - they
are still perfectly fine as un-lidded mugs.
I just finished glazing a series that will be fired tomorrow.
It is +65 degrees in Texas.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
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Mildred Herot on wed 20 feb 08
You've taken the words right out of my mouth! I was just mentally composing
a note to Clayart with the same question and now am awaiting anxiously some
answers...Mildred Herot - Cheltenham, Pa.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patty Kaliher"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 2:43 PM
Subject: Re: insulated & lidded mugs
> David,
>
> In my experience, double walled vessels are prone to developing cracks as
> they dry. Both walls shrinking produce a crack at the top where connected
> or at the bottom. How do you prevent this?
>
> Signed it this time
>
> Patty Kaliher
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of David Hendley
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:48 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: insulated & lidded mugs
>
> I've made double-walled insulated mugs a few times.
> It's simple really:
> = Throw a mug - keep it simple, no fancy curves.
> don't cut it off the batt.
> = Immediately throw a second, about 1/2" smaller
> diameter than the first, with a little less clay and
> no bottom. Make the bottom rounded, so there
> is some clay on the bottom close to the walls.
> = Cut off the second mug and set it inside the first
> mug. Put the first mug, on its batt, back on the wheel
> and re-throw the bottom surface. Then work on the 2
> lips, bringing them together into one. Don't do anything
> to the area between the bottom and the lip.
>
> Cut off the batt, allow to set, and finish in your usual
> muggy way. You can carve designs into the outer wall
> or leave it solid for better insulation (be sure to make
> a pin-hole to allow air to escape as the piece dries).
>
> For lidded mugs, I make the mugs as usual, but just
> measure the openings with calipers. Lids, made to fit,
> are thrown off-the-hump, upside-down, with interior
> flanges.
> Unlike jars, I glaze the mugs as usual, because it would
> be unpleasant to have an unglazed lip. The lids are waxed
> so the flange is not glazed on the bottom, so they can
> be fired separately.
> I always make at least a dozen lids and 15 or 16 mugs,
> all glazed the same, and then play musical lids after the
> firing, to find good fits.
> There are a few mugs without lids but that's OK - they
> are still perfectly fine as un-lidded mugs.
> I just finished glazing a series that will be fired tomorrow.
> It is +65 degrees in Texas.
>
> David Hendley
> Maydelle, Texas
> david(at)farmpots(dot)com
> http://www.farmpots.com
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
> http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
>
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