Cindy Gatto on thu 21 feb 08
Jesse,
All you really need for what you say you are going to do is a jiffy mixer
and a 5 gal. bucket. You don't need a casting table or pumps or any of that
unless your doing production. Buy a pre-made slip and keep it in a bucket get
your self a large plastic pitcher which is easier to fill the mold with than a
5-gal. bucket.And yes, it can get very expensive I would start with the bare
basics .A container of slip and a mold. The only other thing you will need to
get are mold straps to keep the molds together. You might decide that you
don't like slipcasting I wouldn't get too crazy ay first.
Cindy Gatto & Mark Petrin
The Mudpit
228 Manhattan Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11206
718-218-9424
_www.mudpitnyc.com_ (http://www.mudpitnyc.com/)
mudpitnyc@aol.com
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Marcia Selsor on thu 21 feb 08
I once made a slip casting set up where I strapped a big mold to a
hinged set up with legs that I could flip over and pour out the
excess slip.
Did it in the back yard for a project of 24 " diameter vessels and
some 18" extruded forms cast into plaster shapes for slip casting..
My slip making was in a 30 gallon garbage can and I stirred it every
day for 10 minutes with a big drill with a
rear handle like a jack hammer I found at a garage sale (and still
have) . I followed the directions of Kenny's book ,
The Complete Book of Pottery Making.decades ago.
It worked really well. How extensive of a set up are you really
wanting to do? I think you can do it without a huge expense except for
a plastic 30 gallon container.
I was making "winged amphora and slip casting the wings to keep them
light (hollow) to defy gravity. They was were out of a casting slip
that matched my throwing clay.
When making molds for slip casting be sure to make molds with a
substantial reservior for the slip. BTW I didn't have apump.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Feb 21, 2008, at 3:23 PM, Jesse Hull at Wiseman Ceramics wrote:
> With a pugger-mixer, two wheels, and a strong appreciation for
> throwing, I
> normally prefer to create my work on the potter's wheel. However, as
> glaze
> development is a big constant in my studio, I'm wanting to start
> casting
> test shapes.
>
> I understand casting slips, specific gravity, and viscosity, but I
> lack
> experience with anything more sophisticated than drill mixers and 5-
> gallon
> buckets.
> This can all get expensive quick, especially if I buy the wrong
> thing...
> So I'm hoping for some insight into slip casting tables, pumps,
> mixers, etc.
> for a small studio.
>
> I'll probably only keep/use 5-15 small molds, so a 15-30 gallon
> setup should
> work fine.
>
> Suggestions... Warnings...?
>
> ~jesse.
>
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Jesse Hull at Wiseman Ceramics on thu 21 feb 08
With a pugger-mixer, two wheels, and a strong appreciation for throwing, I
normally prefer to create my work on the potter's wheel. However, as glaze
development is a big constant in my studio, I'm wanting to start casting
test shapes.
I understand casting slips, specific gravity, and viscosity, but I lack
experience with anything more sophisticated than drill mixers and 5-gallon
buckets.
This can all get expensive quick, especially if I buy the wrong thing...
So I'm hoping for some insight into slip casting tables, pumps, mixers, etc.
for a small studio.
I'll probably only keep/use 5-15 small molds, so a 15-30 gallon setup should
work fine.
Suggestions... Warnings...?
~jesse.
John Rodgers on fri 22 feb 08
Jesse,
In my work I often do a mix and match between work thrown on the wheel
and slipcast work. I will throw a piece and then use slipcast
attachments, OR, make a slipcast body and then use parts made from
pottery clay - slabbed, pinched, pulled, thrown and altered, what ever
works.
I settled on using Laguna's cone 5 B-mix, because (1) it's a nice
parian, porcelainous stoneware.- I have used the thowning body for
years, and (2) C5 B-mix is available as both a throwing body, pugged and
boxed for ease of handling, and it is also available as a dry slip body
that comes in 50 lb bags. Laguna tells me that the B-mix clay body for
throwing, and the slip Casting B-mix are slightly different in their
composition, but not much. Ball clay proportions are different from one
to the other. This closeness in composition is what makes it easy when
mixing and matching bits and parts made from the two.bodies. I found
that it did not work well for me trying to make a throwing body into a
slipcasting body. Throwing bodies by nature are very plastic, ergo the
stretching ability of the clay when throw on a wheel. Not so with slip
casting bodies. They needs be of necessity a bit "short" and "crispy",
to make removal from molds an easy task. Those experienced slip casters
among us know whereof I speak. When you have worked with this for some
time you will come to understand the significance of those terms. It's
hard to describe until you have worked with it a good bit. But that is
what distinguishes a good casting slip from it's throwing body brother.
So far as equipment goes - one can low-ball the effort, and go with 5
gallon buckets and drill mixers, but there comes a time when something
else becomes more desirable. When that time came for me, I bought myself
a Spring Creek fiberglas casting table with a center drain and removable
support dowels which allow for ease of cleanup, This table is
lightweight, easy to move with a helper (table is just long so it is
awkward), yet will hold 1000 lbs. At first I was concerned about how
much space it would take up, but I quickly realized I could store clay -
bags and boxes - underneath it on rolling flats, and when not in use I
could put a piece of plywood over it and it became a great work table
when working on greenware, glazing, etc.And - though I have never don
this so far - the table can be used to reclaim dried throwing clay
scraps. So ultimately it enhanced my shop workspace.
The other thing I bought was a Spring Creek slip mixing tank. From
experience I knew I did not want any of those open top tanks on wheels
with a pump inside hooked to the hose for slip delivery.; Slip clay
tends to settle and jell and those types were a major PITA in my other
life. So, I bought a 33 gal mixing tank, with a motor mounted on top
which a shaft with two propellers to mix the slip. If you do much slip
casting at all, this would be the minimum setup. My tank sits over in a
corner on a little bench I built for it. It is so simple to operate. I
would not give up the convenience of the slip mixing tank for a truck
load of drill mixers. The tank holds approx 5 to six bags of clay when
mixed.
I started my career in clay through the slip casting world and then
moved over to the pottery clay. work. But I find I keep going back to my
roots. Slip casting a production process, and if you are working
multiple molds, you definitely need these two pieces of equipment.They
will serve you well.
If yo have further questions, feel free to contact me directly.
Good luck.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Jesse Hull at Wiseman Ceramics wrote:
> With a pugger-mixer, two wheels, and a strong appreciation for throwing, I
> normally prefer to create my work on the potter's wheel. However, as glaze
> development is a big constant in my studio, I'm wanting to start casting
> test shapes.
>
> I understand casting slips, specific gravity, and viscosity, but I lack
> experience with anything more sophisticated than drill mixers and 5-gallon
> buckets.
> This can all get expensive quick, especially if I buy the wrong thing...
> So I'm hoping for some insight into slip casting tables, pumps, mixers, etc.
> for a small studio.
>
> I'll probably only keep/use 5-15 small molds, so a 15-30 gallon setup should
> work fine.
>
> Suggestions... Warnings...?
>
> ~jesse.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
Jacqueline Miller on fri 22 feb 08
Does anyone have experience with the little Mity Mite or BR6 slip
mixers from Lehmans? They hold 6-10 gallons depending on the model.
Obviously for the person who does small batches.
Jackie
On Fri, Feb 22, 2008 at 7:49 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Jesse,
>
> In my work I often do a mix and match between work thrown on the wheel
> and slipcast work. I will throw a piece and then use slipcast
> attachments, OR, make a slipcast body and then use parts made from
> pottery clay - slabbed, pinched, pulled, thrown and altered, what ever
> works.
>
> I settled on using Laguna's cone 5 B-mix, because (1) it's a nice
> parian, porcelainous stoneware.- I have used the thowning body for
> years, and (2) C5 B-mix is available as both a throwing body, pugged and
> boxed for ease of handling, and it is also available as a dry slip body
> that comes in 50 lb bags. Laguna tells me that the B-mix clay body for
> throwing, and the slip Casting B-mix are slightly different in their
> composition, but not much. Ball clay proportions are different from one
> to the other. This closeness in composition is what makes it easy when
> mixing and matching bits and parts made from the two.bodies. I found
> that it did not work well for me trying to make a throwing body into a
> slipcasting body. Throwing bodies by nature are very plastic, ergo the
> stretching ability of the clay when throw on a wheel. Not so with slip
> casting bodies. They needs be of necessity a bit "short" and "crispy",
> to make removal from molds an easy task. Those experienced slip casters
> among us know whereof I speak. When you have worked with this for some
> time you will come to understand the significance of those terms. It's
> hard to describe until you have worked with it a good bit. But that is
> what distinguishes a good casting slip from it's throwing body brother.
>
> So far as equipment goes - one can low-ball the effort, and go with 5
> gallon buckets and drill mixers, but there comes a time when something
> else becomes more desirable. When that time came for me, I bought myself
> a Spring Creek fiberglas casting table with a center drain and removable
> support dowels which allow for ease of cleanup, This table is
> lightweight, easy to move with a helper (table is just long so it is
> awkward), yet will hold 1000 lbs. At first I was concerned about how
> much space it would take up, but I quickly realized I could store clay -
> bags and boxes - underneath it on rolling flats, and when not in use I
> could put a piece of plywood over it and it became a great work table
> when working on greenware, glazing, etc.And - though I have never don
> this so far - the table can be used to reclaim dried throwing clay
> scraps. So ultimately it enhanced my shop workspace.
>
> The other thing I bought was a Spring Creek slip mixing tank. From
> experience I knew I did not want any of those open top tanks on wheels
> with a pump inside hooked to the hose for slip delivery.; Slip clay
> tends to settle and jell and those types were a major PITA in my other
> life. So, I bought a 33 gal mixing tank, with a motor mounted on top
> which a shaft with two propellers to mix the slip. If you do much slip
> casting at all, this would be the minimum setup. My tank sits over in a
> corner on a little bench I built for it. It is so simple to operate. I
> would not give up the convenience of the slip mixing tank for a truck
> load of drill mixers. The tank holds approx 5 to six bags of clay when
> mixed.
>
> I started my career in clay through the slip casting world and then
> moved over to the pottery clay. work. But I find I keep going back to my
> roots. Slip casting a production process, and if you are working
> multiple molds, you definitely need these two pieces of equipment.They
> will serve you well.
>
> If yo have further questions, feel free to contact me directly.
>
> Good luck.
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
> Jesse Hull at Wiseman Ceramics wrote:
> > With a pugger-mixer, two wheels, and a strong appreciation for throwing, I
> > normally prefer to create my work on the potter's wheel. However, as glaze
> > development is a big constant in my studio, I'm wanting to start casting
> > test shapes.
> >
> > I understand casting slips, specific gravity, and viscosity, but I lack
> > experience with anything more sophisticated than drill mixers and 5-gallon
> > buckets.
> > This can all get expensive quick, especially if I buy the wrong thing...
> > So I'm hoping for some insight into slip casting tables, pumps, mixers, etc.
> > for a small studio.
> >
> > I'll probably only keep/use 5-15 small molds, so a 15-30 gallon setup should
> > work fine.
> >
> > Suggestions... Warnings...?
> >
> > ~jesse.
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________________________
> > Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> > subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
> >
> >
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
--
Jackie Miller
JackieAMiller@gmail.com
Jesse Hull at Wiseman Ceramics on sat 23 feb 08
I've got some good info back and it's narrowed my focus, so I'm going to
make my questions more specific:
I planned on getting a mixer (one that creates the proper vortex for mixing
and removing bubbles) and a small-medium sized casting table.
But I'm confused as to how one keeps the slip in the table's tank from
gelling and settling.
Would I have to pump the drainings back into the mixer after each casting
session?
If that's the case, then why do the tables have big 20-30 gallon tanks under
them... wouldn't a smaller drain tank be sufficient?
If the mixers are designed for "reclaiming", then why can't you just drain
(through a screen) back into the mixer itself and adjust the
sp.grav./viscosity from there?
I've seen table&tank setups which include pumps with "jet ports" that claim
to blend the slip and reduce settling. I was taught to always mix slip well
before testing, as the agitation "thins" the slip --so if the pump can
actually provide enough movement inside the tank, could it inhibit the
gelling effect?
I'm leaning toward a reversible pump system... I don't like having to lift
the molds, or risk collapsing the piece inside by creating a vacuum effect
(due to the forms I make, my mold's pour holes can often be small-ish). In
this regard, I was considering Lehman's RD30 table.
...But again, you've got this big tank full of slip under the table that's,
what... just not staying conditioned?
That doesn't make any sense to me.
~jesse.
John Rodgers on wed 27 feb 08
Jesse,
I have said it before. Don't get a table with the tank attached. In time
you will absolutely hate it. I had one in my shop in Alaska and got rid
of the blasted thing. And even now, I wouldn't have and do not have one.
Your concerns about settling and mixing are legitimate concerns. EVERY
time I get ready to cast I first have to take a big paddle and loosen
the slip up a bit or it doesn't swirl and mix even with the propellers
churning. I also have to work settled clay up from the bottom of the
mixing tank.The clay is thixotropic and jels like crazy. I always have
to use a paddle to loosen it up first thing.
Again, I drain the casting of slip, into buckets I set below the drain.
Easy to move, I just dump them into the slip mixing tank, followed by
the days' trimmings. At the end of the day, I clean my table. I never
leave my table in a mess. Unprofessional.!
I do all my pouring from buckets. No pumps for me. BTDT! I use 2-1/2 gal
Rubbermaid buckets - which happen to have a keen spout on then. When the
molds have formed the greenware, just ease the molds down onto their
sides, allowing to drain fairly rapidly, but not so fast as to cause
"glugging" or creating a vacuum which could collaspe the new greenware
in the mold. When much of the slip is out, then ease the mold on over
into an upside down position. No point in working yourself to death
lifting filled molds.
For molds with small pour holes I use Tupperware pitchers - the older
ones with the keen spouts.
Hope this helps.
John Rodgers
Chelsea. A:L
Jesse Hull at Wiseman Ceramics wrote:
> I've got some good info back and it's narrowed my focus, so I'm going to
> make my questions more specific:
>
> I planned on getting a mixer (one that creates the proper vortex for mixing
> and removing bubbles) and a small-medium sized casting table.
> But I'm confused as to how one keeps the slip in the table's tank from
> gelling and settling.
> Would I have to pump the drainings back into the mixer after each casting
> session?
> If that's the case, then why do the tables have big 20-30 gallon tanks under
> them... wouldn't a smaller drain tank be sufficient?
>
> If the mixers are designed for "reclaiming", then why can't you just drain
> (through a screen) back into the mixer itself and adjust the
> sp.grav./viscosity from there?
>
> I've seen table&tank setups which include pumps with "jet ports" that claim
> to blend the slip and reduce settling. I was taught to always mix slip well
> before testing, as the agitation "thins" the slip --so if the pump can
> actually provide enough movement inside the tank, could it inhibit the
> gelling effect?
>
> I'm leaning toward a reversible pump system... I don't like having to lift
> the molds, or risk collapsing the piece inside by creating a vacuum effect
> (due to the forms I make, my mold's pour holes can often be small-ish). In
> this regard, I was considering Lehman's RD30 table.
> ...But again, you've got this big tank full of slip under the table that's,
> what... just not staying conditioned?
> That doesn't make any sense to me.
>
> ~jesse.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
Eleanora Eden on wed 12 mar 08
I read this thread when I was still away and think my set up is
really a middle ground
between pouring from buckets (been there done that) and the
production set-ups people
mentioned.
This is a basic plastic utility sink that has been fixed up with a
mixing motor and a
hose and nozzle. It is so simple. Holds about 20 gallons, I guess.
Has 5 wooden rods
(all have all been replaced with pcs of broom handle) for draining
the molds across the
top. That's it. I have always found it real easy to use and clean.
I just get my arm down
into all the corners to stir it all up when I haven't used it in a while.
We reinforced the legs and put the whole thing onto a little wheeled
cart. So I move it
into the room when needed.
Hope this helps. Bought it from my local supplier.
Eleanora
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
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