Elizabeth Priddy on wed 27 feb 08
I would like to find this glaze recipe.
I had it, it is cone 6 and semi matt
but my notebook got wet and the recipe got wiped.
It is a RISD school glaze.
I got it from someone about a decade ago and we are no longer in touch.
E
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
Natural Instincts Conference Information:
http://downtothepottershouse.com/NaturalInstincts.html
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7973282@N03/
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Veena Raghavan on thu 28 feb 08
Hi Elizabeth,
I have this, which was posted by Diane Winters some time ago. Perhaps it is
the one you are looking for.
Toshiko Green
Potash Feldspar 35.7
Whiting 22.4
EPK 13.4
Cornwall Stone 17.8
Zinc Oxide 10.7
+ Bentonite 1.7
+ Copper carb. 1.7 (for green)
This glaze breaks considerably from cool green to dark brown, depending on
thickness and underlying texture. Since this didn't suit my purposes, for
my green glazes I cut the zinc approximately in half to minimize the break.
NOTE: I make decorative wall tile - can't vouch for this as being a food
safe glaze.
Diane Winters
message dated 2/28/2008 5:41:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
priddyclay@YAHOO.COM writes:
>
> I would like to find this glaze recipe.
>
> I had it, it is cone 6 and semi matt
>
> but my notebook got wet and the recipe got wiped.
>
> It is a RISD school glaze.
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
John Hesselberth on thu 28 feb 08
Hi Elizabeth,
Are you sure you don't mean Toshika Green? It's in Giorgini's
"Handmade Tiles" book, page 138.
I make use of that glaze a lot in my glaze workshops. You can suck
the color right out of it in 2 hours or less with a juicy slice of
lemon. Obviously I use it to demonstrate how unstable some of the
glazes in the published literature are and how functional potters
need to be careful with what they use. It makes a great workshop
demonstration.
Regards,
John
On Feb 27, 2008, at 11:26 PM, Elizabeth Priddy wrote:
> I would like to find this glaze recipe.
>
> I had it, it is cone 6 and semi matt
>
> but my notebook got wet and the recipe got wiped.
>
> It is a RISD school glaze.
>
> I got it from someone about a decade ago and we are no longer in
> touch.
Mike Paluska on thu 28 feb 08
Hello Elizabeth,
There is a glaze called Toshika Green in Frank Giorgini's Handmade
Tiles book. It is a semi-matte, cone 6 oxidation glaze. Here is
the recipe:
border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="220">
width="85">
height="17" width="135">Toshika Green |
width="85"> |
width="135">(Handmade Tiles, Giorgini, p. 138) |
width="85">% weight |
Potash
Feldspar |
x:num="0.34499999999999997">34.5% |
Whiting |
21.6% |
EPK |
13.0% |
Cornwall
Stone |
x:num="0.17199999999999999">17.2% |
Zinc Oxide |
x:num="0.10299999999999999">10.3% |
Bentonite |
x:num="1.7000000000000001E-2">1.7% |
|
|
Total
Weight = |
x:num="0.98299999999999998" x:fmla="=SUM(B3:B9)">98.3% |
height="51" width="135">Color Component/above grams |
width="85"> |
height="17" width="135">Copper Carbonate |
1.7% |
cool green
to tan |
|
Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Mike
Elizabeth Priddy wrote:
type="cite">
I would like to find this glaze recipe.
I had it, it is cone 6 and semi matt
but my notebook got wet and the recipe got wiped.
It is a RISD school glaze.
I got it from someone about a decade ago and we are no longer in touch.
E
John Hesselberth on fri 29 feb 08
On Feb 29, 2008, at 3:08 AM, Elizabeth Priddy wrote:
> Dear John,
>
> Thank you. Since you are most familiar with it, and I am
> assuming that
> is it by the book I am looking at, can you tell me what I could
> use instead?
>
> I want it to look just like that and have a texture just like
> that, but I want it
> to be food safe. I am assuming in your class, you discuss
> alternatives?
>
> I know that is a tall order, but glaze chemistry isn't my thing
> at all. I will
> gladly send you a brushpainted whatever you like in exchange for
> a good
> recipe and avoiding a headache.
>
> I truly love mottled green semi matte glazes. Barium glazes feel
> like silk
> to me. But the glazes I love the most keep seeming to come up
> poison.
>
> Isn't it just like that with some things?
>
> Elizabeth
Hi Elizabeth,
A good place to start would be Xavier's Warm Jade Green (from Val
Cushing's book)
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/glaze0017.html
I would lighten up on the copper carbonate to 3-4 % and cut the
rutile down a bit too--or maybe switch from rutile to TiO2 if I
didn't want the slight brown cast that rutile will give. Xavier's, as
shown on the above link, is a bit darker than Toshiko. But it is the
best, stable medium green semimatte I have seen.
Frog Pond Green Matte
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/glaze0012.html
is another one you might try--just keep the copper carbonate to 3.5%
or less.
Last I would recommend Pete's Weathered Bronze Green (Pete Pinnell)
http://www.frogpondpottery.com/glazestability/glaze0022.html
It is matte rather than semimatte and does metal mark fairly easily
but would certainly be OK on the outside of vessels. It is also an
outstanding glaze for layering on top of other glazes. Use a fairly
thin coat applied as soon as the underlying glaze is handleable. You
can get some really nice effects doing that.
John
John Hesselberth
http://www.masteringglazes.com
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
"I love everything that's old: old friends, old times, old manners,
old books, old wines." Oliver Goldsmith, "She Stoops to Conquer" (1773)
Elizabeth Priddy on fri 29 feb 08
Thank you to everyone with the recipes. I am very grateful and
confident that I have found it. And now on to another pickle.
--------------------------
Are you sure you don't mean Toshika Green? It's in Giorgini's
"Handmade Tiles" book, page 138.
I make use of that glaze a lot in my glaze workshops. You can suck
the color right out of it in 2 hours or less with a juicy slice of
lemon. Obviously I use it to demonstrate how unstable some of the
glazes in the published literature are and how functional potters
need to be careful with what they use. It makes a great workshop
demonstration.
Regards,
John
-----------------------------------
Dear John,
Thank you. Since you are most familiar with it, and I am assuming that
is it by the book I am looking at, can you tell me what I could use instead?
I want it to look just like that and have a texture just like that, but I want it
to be food safe. I am assuming in your class, you discuss alternatives?
I know that is a tall order, but glaze chemistry isn't my thing at all. I will
gladly send you a brushpainted whatever you like in exchange for a good
recipe and avoiding a headache.
I truly love mottled green semi matte glazes. Barium glazes feel like silk
to me. But the glazes I love the most keep seeming to come up poison.
Isn't it just like that with some things?
Elizabeth
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
Natural Instincts Conference Information:
http://downtothepottershouse.com/NaturalInstincts.html
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7973282@N03/
---------------------------------
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Lynne and Bruce Girrell on fri 29 feb 08
Please also read Chapter 1 of Mastering Cone 6 Glazes.
This glaze is not for food service items
Bruce Girrell
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Mike Paluska=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 9:47 PM
Subject: Re: tosheiko green
Hello Elizabeth,
There is a glaze called Toshika Green in Frank Giorgini's Handmade =
Tiles book. It is a semi-matte, cone 6 oxidation glaze. Here is the =
recipe:
Toshika Green =20
(Handmade Tiles, Giorgini, p. 138) % weight=20
Potash Feldspar 34.5%=20
Whiting 21.6%=20
EPK 13.0%=20
Cornwall Stone 17.2%=20
Zinc Oxide 10.3%=20
Bentonite 1.7%=20
=20
Total Weight =3D 98.3%=20
Color Component/above grams =20
Copper Carbonate 1.7%=20
cool green to tan =20
Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Mike
Elizabeth Priddy wrote:=20
I would like to find this glaze recipe.
I had it, it is cone 6 and semi matt
but my notebook got wet and the recipe got wiped.
It is a RISD school glaze.
I got it from someone about a decade ago and we are no longer in =
touch.
E
=
_________________________________________________________________________=
_____ Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org You =
may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your =
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: =
http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/ Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson =
who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Mike Paluska on sat 1 mar 08
Hello John,
Could you tell us the color of the claybody that was in use when you are
describing the colors of the various glaze suggestions you made to
Elizabeth?
Thanks,
Mike
John Hesselberth wrote:
> Hi Elizabeth,
>
> A good place to start would be Xavier's Warm Jade Green (from Val
> Cushing's book)
>
>
Elizabeth Priddy on sat 1 mar 08
And that is why you are so great!
Thank you. I realize having someone do my homework for me is
not quite kosher...
On the other hand, asking an expert rather than floundering
around with possible poisons when you know it is not your thing...
priceless. For me and my unsuspecting patrons.
Thanks again, and I have your address. I will keep my end of
the bargain.
E
Elizabeth Priddy
Beaufort, NC - USA
Natural Instincts Conference Information:
http://downtothepottershouse.com/NaturalInstincts.html
http://www.elizabethpriddy.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7973282@N03/
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
John Hesselberth on sun 2 mar 08
I've tried them on both white and tan bodies. These are fairly opaque
glazes. I don't mean to imply the color match with Toshika is exact.
They are in the same family. Test, test, test.
Regards,
John
On Mar 1, 2008, at 2:11 PM, Mike Paluska wrote:
> Hello John,
>
> Could you tell us the color of the claybody that was in use when
> you are
> describing the colors of the various glaze suggestions you made to
> Elizabeth?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
> John Hesselberth wrote:
>> Hi Elizabeth,
>>
>> A good place to start would be Xavier's Warm Jade Green (from Val
>> Cushing's book)
>>
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> ________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://
> www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots2@visi.com
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