John Rodgers on sat 1 mar 08
Go to www.polytek.com and voew their moldmaking material. Buy a copy of
their catalog - it contains a lot of insturction in it, in additions to
the products they sell.
You will need some reinforcing materials in the plaster. Polytek sells -
or used to anyway - bulk hemp fiber. I have used it a lot. It will give
added strength to the mold, as well as make it a bit lighter. Also, you
might want to consider first making a brush coat on the body surface to
pick up fine detail, then fill the rest with plaster mixed with
vermiculite, to make the work lighter in weight for ease of handling.
I have concerns about burns with #1 pottery plaster. For a small area,
it might not be so bad. The body blood circulation can carry away the
heat to other parts to cool. But over a large are as in a body cast -
that is a big bunch of plaster with a big bunch of heat to be
dissipated. I would be leery of such a huge mold made from Number 1
pottery plaster for the heat reason. It would be far better to make a
mold of alginaye first, then for support, make a plaster mother mold on
top of the alginate. Once the alginate-mother mold is made, a cast can
be made into the alginate mold that will look like your body. on one
side or the other - which ever you do first. From that cast you can make
as many body cast molds as you wish. It is a bit of extra work to do it
this way, but far safer.
The plaster reacts with the water to create crystals which locks up the
water. This process produces "heat of hydration" and can get quite hot.
If you do anything to drop the temperature during the set, the mold will
be destroyed. It will have no strength and be soft.So you have to live
with the heat. But take whatever steps you can to avoid the heat
exposure during setting.
Good lluck.
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
MT Hannigan wrote:
> I want to make two press molds of my torso, front and back--they will
> not need to be joined together. I figure I'd need a friend's help--I
> don't know how I could do this by myself.
>
> 1. I am assuming I would use #1 Pottery grade plaster. If so what
> are the proportions of water to plaster?
> 2. About how much plaster would I need? I'm 5'8" and weigh 126.
> Each mold would probably be about 24" tall by 18" wide by 3" thick
> (is that thick enough?)
> 3. What do I use to keep the from sticking to my skin?
> 4. How hot exactly does the plaster get? > 5. How would I keep the plaster in place? I was thinking of making
> a "wall" on either side of my body with moist clay, but if there are
> any betteer ideas, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Jonathan Kaplan, the moldmaster--I hope you'll weigh in on this.
>
> Teri Hannigan
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here:
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>
>
MT Hannigan on sat 1 mar 08
I want to make two press molds of my torso, front and back--they will
not need to be joined together. I figure I'd need a friend's help--I
don't know how I could do this by myself.
1. I am assuming I would use #1 Pottery grade plaster. If so what
are the proportions of water to plaster?
2. About how much plaster would I need? I'm 5'8" and weigh 126.
Each mold would probably be about 24" tall by 18" wide by 3" thick
(is that thick enough?)
3. What do I use to keep the from sticking to my skin?
4. How hot exactly does the plaster get? 5. How would I keep the plaster in place? I was thinking of making
a "wall" on either side of my body with moist clay, but if there are
any betteer ideas, I'd love to hear them.
Jonathan Kaplan, the moldmaster--I hope you'll weigh in on this.
Teri Hannigan
Marcia Selsor on sat 1 mar 08
Dear Terri,
Get a copy of Don Frith's Moldmaking book from a library.
For not knowing how to cast plaster, a torso mold is a big jump!
I would use a sand bed as in a sand box and mark a line on the body
where you
would get no undercuts. Build sand around the body to that line.
If you want to keep the sand out of the mold, cover with some plastic
liner or plasticene (oil based clay) as the shim to separate the two
sections to be cast. Do one, let it set up well and come back to do
the other side.
Make "keys" , carved negative bumps, around the flat edge of the mold
for a good fit
and re-alignment.
When doing the second part, vaseline the edge and bumps as well as the
body.
Look into getting some plaster bandages for the first layers of the
mold. You could use strips of gauze dipped in plaster although the
bandages are more
popular with sculpture classes.Also you'll need a couple of helpers.
Use vaseline as a mold release.
Use the plaster gauze (bandages) as the first layers and then add mixed
plaster to reinforce the mold. Use some gauze in this layer as a
reinforcement.
When preparing the plaster, let it set until you leave a ripple across
the top
when you pull a finger across the surface.
Practice making a few molds before you go for the torso. Find someone
who has experience mixing plaster , or make several two part molds
before you to the big one.
I know some people who have used the gauze in one shot and cut it off
the
model with scissors, I have never tried this. It would have to be
reinforced
for use as a press mold.
I'd get a hundred pound bag of #1 pottery plaster and practice.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
On Mar 1, 2008, at 11:34 AM, MT Hannigan wrote:
> I want to make two press molds of my torso, front and back--they will
> not need to be joined together. I figure I'd need a friend's help--I
> don't know how I could do this by myself.
>
> 1. I am assuming I would use #1 Pottery grade plaster. If so what
> are the proportions of water to plaster?
> 2. About how much plaster would I need? I'm 5'8" and weigh 126.
> Each mold would probably be about 24" tall by 18" wide by 3" thick
> (is that thick enough?)
> 3. What do I use to keep the from sticking to my skin?
> 4. How hot exactly does the plaster get? > 5. How would I keep the plaster in place? I was thinking of making
> a "wall" on either side of my body with moist clay, but if there are
> any betteer ideas, I'd love to hear them.
>
> Jonathan Kaplan, the moldmaster--I hope you'll weigh in on this.
>
> Teri Hannigan
Cherry Knobloch on sun 2 mar 08
>For some weeks now, there has been an advertisement in our local
>paper for "Mommies Memories Casting 3D images of your pregnant belly.
>Creating memories to last a lifetime. Starts at $99" As if stretch marks
>aren't enough. Even shows photo of one, thighs up to neck, including arms!
Cherry Knobloch
Chesapeake, Va
www.Earthechos.com
Ric Swenson on sun 2 mar 08
Marci...good advice.... Don Frith's book on MOLDMAKING is the best.
=20
Now as to the pain....from the heat. It's tolerable, but can cause your sk=
in to be very dry afterward. If you mix the plaster for a little longer it=
will set up faster and cause less discomfort. We cast hundreds of student'=
s faces with few problems...Claustrophobia is the worst problem with face c=
asting IMHO. A few people "panicked".
=20
=20
We Found that straws up the nostrils rather than straws in the mouth was be=
tter for breathing while under the plaster.=20
=20
=20
=20
Reinforce the larger body mold parts with strips of gauze plaster...as they=
used to use with the old plaster broken arm casting material. =20
=20
=20
=20
Lots of vaseline...well rubbed in will help in release...but if hair is cau=
ght in the plaster....it will pull out and can be painful.
=20
=20
=20
Just my 2 cents.
=20
=20
Ric
=20
=20
=20
"...then fiery expedition be my wing, ..." Wm. Shakespeare, RICHARD III, Ac=
t IV Scene III Richard H. ("Ric") Swenson, Teacher, Office of Internationa=
l Cooperation and Exchange of Jingdezhen Ceramic Institute, TaoYang Road, E=
astern Suburb, Jingdezhen City.JiangXi Province, P.R. of China. Postal code=
333001. Mobile/cellular phone :13767818872 < RicSwenson0823@hotmail.com>
> Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 20:41:23 -0600> From: selsor@IMT.NET> Subject: Re: =
Making a body press mold> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG> > Dear Terri,> Get =
a copy of Don Frith's Moldmaking book from a library.> For not knowing how =
to cast plaster, a torso mold is a big jump!> I would use a sand bed as in =
a sand box and mark a line on the body> where you> would get no undercuts. =
Build sand around the body to that line.> If you want to keep the sand out =
of the mold, cover with some plastic> liner or plasticene (oil based clay) =
as the shim to separate the two> sections to be cast. Do one, let it set up=
well and come back to do> the other side.> Make "keys" , carved negative b=
umps, around the flat edge of the mold> for a good fit> and re-alignment.> =
When doing the second part, vaseline the edge and bumps as well as the> bod=
y.> Look into getting some plaster bandages for the first layers of the> mo=
ld. You could use strips of gauze dipped in plaster although the> bandages =
are more> popular with sculpture classes.Also you'll need a couple of helpe=
rs.> Use vaseline as a mold release.> Use the plaster gauze (bandages) as t=
he first layers and then add mixed> plaster to reinforce the mold. Use some=
gauze in this layer as a> reinforcement.> When preparing the plaster, let =
it set until you leave a ripple across> the top> when you pull a finger acr=
oss the surface.> Practice making a few molds before you go for the torso. =
Find someone> who has experience mixing plaster , or make several two part =
molds> before you to the big one.> I know some people who have used the gau=
ze in one shot and cut it off> the> model with scissors, I have never tried=
this. It would have to be> reinforced> for use as a press mold.> I'd get a=
hundred pound bag of #1 pottery plaster and practice.> Marcia Selsor> http=
://marciaselsor.com> > > > On Mar 1, 2008, at 11:34 AM, MT Hannigan wrote:>=
> > I want to make two press molds of my torso, front and back--they will>=
> not need to be joined together. I figure I'd need a friend's help--I> > =
don't know how I could do this by myself.> >> > 1. I am assuming I would us=
e #1 Pottery grade plaster. If so what> > are the proportions of water to p=
laster?> > 2. About how much plaster would I need? I'm 5'8" and weigh 126.>=
> Each mold would probably be about 24" tall by 18" wide by 3" thick> > (i=
s that thick enough?)> > 3. What do I use to keep the from sticking to my s=
kin? > > 4. How hot exactly does the plaster get? > 5. How wo=
uld I keep the plaster in place? I was thinking of making> > a "wall" on ei=
ther side of my body with moist clay, but if there are> > any betteer ideas=
, I'd love to hear them.> >> > Jonathan Kaplan, the moldmaster--I hope you'=
ll weigh in on this.> >> > Teri Hannigan> > _______________________________=
_______________________________________________> Clayart members may send p=
ostings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org> > You may look at the archives for th=
e list, post messages, change your> subscription settings or unsubscribe/le=
ave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/> > Moderator of the li=
st is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail=AE-get yo=
ur "fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx=
Donna Kat on sun 2 mar 08
On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 09:34:21 -0800, MT Hannigan
wrote:
>I want to make two press molds of my torso, front and back--they will
>not need to be joined together. I figure I'd need a friend's help--I
>don't know how I could do this by myself.
>
>1. I am assuming I would use #1 Pottery grade plaster. If so what
>are the proportions of water to plaster?
>2. About how much plaster would I need? I'm 5'8" and weigh 126.
>Each mold would probably be about 24" tall by 18" wide by 3" thick
>(is that thick enough?)
>3. What do I use to keep the from sticking to my skin?
>4. How hot exactly does the plaster get? >5. How would I keep the plaster in place? I was thinking of making
>a "wall" on either side of my body with moist clay, but if there are
>any betteer ideas, I'd love to hear them.
>
>Jonathan Kaplan, the moldmaster--I hope you'll weigh in on this.
I did a face mask simply by using the plaster gauze
http://www.amazon.com/Plaster-Gauze-Paris-Craft-x15ft/dp/B000F5VHQQ
cover the area to be 'plastered' with vasoline, in this case I would put a
solid piece of wet soft fabric over the area then start laying strips of
the plaster gauze which have been dipped in water over the area. I would
start with a small area first just to get the hang of it (a belly button
or breast?). Once it sets up you can easily remove it. Since you are
doing a large area I would support the form in sand before trying to press
a slab of clay in it. From this you could make a more permanent form.
I don't know if you have ever seen shadow forms but if you do a negative
of a form, with lighting you can give the illusion of it being a
positive. Just a thought. Donna
Steve Slatin on sun 2 mar 08
Perfect fer hangin' on the wall, very decorative ...
and then, when you take out the home movies
of the actual delivery, the audience will already
be in the mood!
I think customized, glazed belly jobbies will
be a big, big growth area for potters in areas
where there's too much money, not enough
modesty, and so on ... Southern Cal handbuilders
take note!
Cherry Knobloch wrote:
>For some weeks now, there has been an advertisement in our local
>paper for "Mommies Memories Casting 3D images of your pregnant belly.
>Creating memories to last a lifetime. Starts at $99" As if stretch marks
>aren't enough. Even shows photo of one, thighs up to neck, including arms!
Cherry Knobloch
Chesapeake, Va
www.Earthechos.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
---------------------------------
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Snail Scott on sun 2 mar 08
On Mar 1, 2008, at 11:00 PM, Automatic digest processor wrote:
> Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 09:34:21 -0800
> From: MT Hannigan
>
> I want to make two press molds of my torso, front and back--they will
> not need to be joined together. I figure I'd need a friend's help--I
> don't know how I could do this by myself.
>
> 1. I am assuming I would use #1 Pottery grade plaster. If so what
> are the proportions of water to plaster?
> 2. About how much plaster would I need? I'm 5'8" and weigh 126.
> Each mold would probably be about 24" tall by 18" wide by 3" thick
I wouldn't use solid plaster. You don't need the absorbency and
consistency of plaster that is so critical for slip-casting, so make
it easier by using a fiber/plaster mold. For this, any type of
ordinary plaster will do. Some people do the skin-contact layer
with medical plaster (like is used for broken-bone casts), which
is also available at many hobby and craft shops. It is gauze with
dry plaster already imbedded in the fibers. Just cut in handy lengths,
dip in water, and apply to the 'victim'. Smooth it out with your hands
to make sure that an even coating of plaster is in contact with the
skin all over. For later coats, save money by mixing regular plaster
and dipping strips of burlap or other open-weave cloth into it
before applying. (A fine-textured cloth gives best results for the
contact layer, but after that, thickness is more useful.) Build up the
whole surface about 3/4"thick. With fiber constituting most of the
mold's bulk, it will be very strong and won't weigh much at all
after it dries. 25# of plaster is probably plenty, but get more; it's
cheap, and if something goes wrong, you don't want to have to
run to the builder's supply for more on short notice.
> 3. What do I use to keep the from sticking to my skin?
Vaseline is reliable, but icky. If the model is mostly hairless, try
a greasy cheap hand cream or one with lots of lanolin. Remember,
this is a press mold, and grease won't really hinder anything.
You can also use mold soap, too: Murphy's Oil Soap is the
classic inexpensive standby, sold in Wal-Mart and most other
stores with basic cleaning products. If you use Vaseline, keep it
thin so that it doesn't leave its own texture. If using the other
options, paint it on a bit thick, since they are a bit more fluid,
and may also evaporate a bit during prep.
> 4. How hot exactly does the plaster get?
It can get uncomfortable, but the fiber/plaster is an advantage
here, too - less mass of plaster to heat up. If you use cool
water, it will slow the reaction, but that can be inconvenient
if the model can't hold the pose for long. If the model is very
heat-sensitive, have an ice pack (or a bag of frozen peas) at
hand to apply to forehead or other spots for cooling while the
plaster sets.
> 5. How would I keep the plaster in place? I was thinking of making
> a "wall" on either side of my body with moist clay, but if there are
> any betteer ideas, I'd love to hear them.
It'll stay - the fiber helps. Start at the top and work down covering
the whole front or back, the add the thicker coats. Skip the wall,
just fold back the edges of the cloth where it overlaps your
'parting line'. This will also reinforce the edges of the mold.
By the way, do the mold with the model in the posture you imagine
for the final artwork. Do NOT have them lying down unless that is
the orientation you have in mind for the finished piece. All flesh,
even on fashion models or athletes, sags a little in the direction of
gravity, and it will look very disturbing if it's sagging the 'wrong'
direction. Female breasts are especially vulnerable to this tendency,
and even a flat-chested woman isn't immune to this. Nor are men.
Relaxed muscles sag a little, too, as do other anatomical parts.
Make sure the model is VERY comfortable, since a posture with
even a little awkwardness can turn into painful muscle spasms
after 15 minutes of immobility. Build something for them to lean on
if the pose isn't totally relaxed on its own. Even If you are doing
just torso front and back, don't forget the arm position. The position
of the upper arm (and even the lower) can radically change the
look of the shoulder and adjacent musculature, and this is visible
even on people with lots of body fat. It also makes a big difference
whether the model is standing or seated, particularly in the look
of the abdominal area and butt/lower back.
Since for this project at least, you'll be using yourself as the model,
you will definitely need a friend (preferably two) to do the actual
work. Any bending or twisting during plaster setup will ruin the
surface, so it's all up to them; you will only get to watch and talk.
I'd do a test run on a smaller project - say, your forearm - so that
you can get the bugs worked out and let your friend(s) practice
once or twice before doing the big, immobilizing project in which
you can't help your friends out at all.
-Snail
stephani stephenson on tue 4 mar 08
i would suggest you start with plaster gauze. there is
a brand made by Activa called "Rigid Wrap"..available
in many art stores on line and on the hoof. the
details are perhaps less defined than with poured
plaster, but a good way to go , the first time out.
it is easy , lightweight, quicksetting, stress free,
and a few small undercuts are OK because you can kind
lift it around, and even cut it if need be.
get all strips cut first and everything ready to go.
use vaseline on skin. if there is body hair make sure
the vaseline coats the body hair well and thoroughly.
cut into strips. dip in water, . mush the plaster
around a bit till it fills the pores of the
cloth...apply in overlapping layers.
build up as many layer as you need for it to support
its shape. later you can make a plaster backing to lay
the rigid wrap mold into, for clay pressing purposes,
though in many cases, the rigid wrap mold does just
fine.
this is an excellent way to do face masks because all
you do to leave the nostrils open is drape strips
over the bridge of the nose then leave an open
triangle where the nostrils are...much better than
straws!
( also helps to fold a piece double to act as a
reinforcement for the bridge area and you can place a
thin folded along the septum to define the nose a
bit better.
you can make your own rigid wrap by cutting squares or
strips of burlap or loose weave cotton and dipping
them in plaster...
i recommend Frith's book if you get into any plaster
mixing or moldmaking
Stephani Stephenson
packing pallets and calling up freight haulers today.....
____________________________________________________________________________________
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Dannon Rhudy on wed 5 mar 08
.......> i would suggest you start with plaster gauze.
> it is easy , lightweight, quicksetting, stress free,
.make sure
> the vaseline coats the body hair well and thoroughly.
Vaseline isn't quite good enough. I suggest that
you cover body hair with a gauze pad, ESPECIALLY
eyelashes. If that does not give sufficient detail, you
can do a little carving where the pads were, and
that works very well. Hair caught in plaster
pulls out, and it hurts like the devil and all.
But the plaster impregnated guaze strips work
really well, and are the best for that purpose. When
they are removed, if you want a stronger mold, then
you can add plaster to the outside of the mold. Support
it with something underneath, when you do.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
dewitt on wed 5 mar 08
On Wed, Mar 5, 2008 at 5:48 AM, Dannon Rhudy wrote:
> .......> i would suggest you start with plaster gauze.
>
> > it is easy , lightweight, quicksetting, stress free,
> .make sure
>
> > the vaseline coats the body hair well and thoroughly.
>
> Vaseline isn't quite good enough. I suggest that
> you cover body hair with a gauze pad, ESPECIALLY
> eyelashes. If that does not give sufficient detail, you
> can do a little carving where the pads were, and
> that works very well. Hair caught in plaster
> pulls out, and it hurts like the devil and all.
>
One other thought, that is probably obvious to the casual observer,
but not necessarily. . . In the 1940's when my Dad was in college,
he had a friend who was an art student. Said friend recruited my Dad
to be the subject of a life mask casting. The artist in training
used petroleum jelly to make sure the plaster didn't stick.
Unfortunately, he used mentholated petroleum jelly. It didn't take
long for the combination of warm plaster and menthol to require my Dad
to abort the process. He was literally "red faced" for several days.
After Dad recovered, they tried again and were successful with
regular petroleum jelly. I now have that life mask which his mother,
not very affectionately, referred to as "Dead Ernie."
deg
stephani stephenson on wed 5 mar 08
Dannon makes a good point about making extra sure you
err on the painless side when comes to hair and
bodycasts, her suggestion is a good one.
the point is,
you WILL remember if it does NOT work. so make sure
you know what works before coating someone, including
yourself , with plaster,
some people , and some areas WILL be more sensitive,
offended, than others so especially if you are doing
the mold on someone else, make SURE they and you
understands what you are doing. have extra water ,
running water , rags, towels eye irrigators, etc ON
HAND, in case there is a problem
I have used vaseline repeatedly with success..
including beards, eyebrows and lashes ,etc... i do
thoroughly make sure hair is completely coated though,
i mean every hair and everyplace the hair contacts
the skin.. but as always, individuals differ,
applications differ, bodies differ, experiences
differ.
i use to make masks for people and even have students
make them... When I reflect back on it though...I'm
not sure i would do it again in a class situation,
for the following :
plaster is caustic to some degree, and older people
especially , (perhaps due to thinning skin), may be
much more sensitive to it. children may be very
uncomfortable about it, so i never allowed students to
use their kids for mask projects in the workshops. it
was adults only. if the parent decides something
later, that is their call.
especially with poured plaster, the weight can be very
uncomfortable and cause distress in some people , and
some people experience claustrophobia, though less so
with the gauze.
now of course I read and caution students that plaster
can get hot enough to BURN you.... soooo.....remember
that too, and maybe TEST it...on a fore arm or part of
the leg...
i found that the plaster gauze however did not
generate much heat, certainly nothing compared to a
big poured mold... but again something to remember,
and remember that individuals differ.
the thing i worried about most with face masks was
plaster in the eyes, as, poured plaster runs when it
is wet and seeks the lowest spots , as in eyeball,
tearduct areas, etc....when it dries it HARD and SHARP
AND chemically irritating in powder and liquid
form... when plaster goes off there is a chemical ,
heat generating chemical reaction taking place.
i could see if you put the vaseline on too soon or to
thin, it might get absorbed into skin and be less
effective. and it may well have been effective, as
Dannon reports in situations where it was applied
quite well. but ... i have used it with success
numerous times, no more, no less.
One benefit we found in using vaseline was that it,
along with the warmth of the plaster gauze, actually
made for a rather nice moisturizing 'facial'... we all
thought the real money would be not to do it for art
projects but in beauty salons, maybe call it 'the
SOHO' facial
or the 'industrial facial', oh no, that would be using
crankcase oil, not vaseline.... KIDDING!
or maybe a little bagbalm instead....." The heartland
facial", only $100.
best to all.
Stephani Stephenson
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