Bert Gibson on fri 29 feb 08
I have a textured glass platter I want to use as a hump mold. I have a black clay (B3 Brown from Laguna) that I want to use as the "body" and then inlay a white slip in the texture.
My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay and the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult to remove from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to use wd-40 unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar the surface with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bert Gibson
Linda Rosen on sat 1 mar 08
Hi Bert
You could create a plaster mold duplicating your platter. This would be =
a 2
step process, but you'd end up with both a hump and a slump mold which
might be useful.=20
Or you could bisque your piece to burn off the cornstarch or wd40 and =
inlay
an underglaze instead of a slip.
Linda Rosen
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bert Gibson
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:58 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Release agent for hump mold
I have a textured glass platter I want to use as a hump mold. I have a =
black
clay (B3 Brown from Laguna) that I want to use as the "body" and then =
inlay
a white slip in the texture.
My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black =
clay
and the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult =
to
remove from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to =
use
wd-40 unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar =
the
surface with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bert Gibson
_________________________________________________________________________=
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Susan Fox Hirschmann on sat 1 mar 08
In a message dated 2/29/2008 11:30:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lazybbeefmaster@TX.RR.COM writes:
My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay and
the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult to
remove from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to use wd-40
unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar the surface with
wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
There is a spray, available at "low fire" ceramics' shops, called "MOLD
RELEASE" that works great. I am not even sure where I got it the last time, but it
may also be available from
Michael's arts & Crafts store, or perhaps Axner has it?
Best of luck.
Susan
Annandale, VA
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
steve graber on sat 1 mar 08
will a dry form of that same claybody work? i never tried that, but i think it would be similar to the cornstarch yet common to the claybody. it could be spritzed with a water bottle later to join it with the claysurface?
see ya
Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc
Claremont, California USA
The Steve Tool - for awesum texture on pots!
www.graberspottery.com steve@graberspottery.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Bert Gibson
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 7:57:50 PM
Subject: Release agent for hump mold
I have a textured glass platter I want to use as a hump mold. I have a black clay (B3 Brown from Laguna) that I want to use as the "body" and then inlay a white slip in the texture.
My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay and the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult to remove from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to use wd-40 unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar the surface with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bert Gibson
______________________________________________________________________________
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____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
John Rodgers on sat 1 mar 08
Try PAM.
It's primary ingredient is Safflower Oil. Has a little alcohol and some
soy lethicin
Works for me.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea AL
Bert Gibson wrote:
> I have a textured glass platter I want to use as a hump mold. I have a black clay (B3 Brown from Laguna) that I want to use as the "body" and then inlay a white slip in the texture.
>
> My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay and the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult to remove from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to use wd-40 unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar the surface with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Bert Gibson
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
William & Susan Schran User on sat 1 mar 08
On 2/29/08 10:57 PM, "Bert Gibson" wrote:
> My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay and
> the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult to remove
> from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to use wd-40
> unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar the surface
> with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
Use vegetable spray.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Richard Walker on sun 2 mar 08
I use WD-40 continuously and if it has any impact on the length of service elements provide I have never noticed it and the kilns are fired very frequently to 06 and 6.
Dick
>From: Bert Gibson
>Date: 2008/03/02 Sun AM 09:26:14 CST
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Re: Release agent for hump mold
>Thanks for the suggestions. Had some emails asking why not use wd40. It had been suggested to me, by a fellow potter, that the burning off of the wd40 in the kiln might be hard on the elements. Anyone have an opinion on this?
>
>
>Bert Gibson
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
>subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
Bert Gibson on sun 2 mar 08
Thanks for the suggestions. Had some emails asking why not use wd40. It had been suggested to me, by a fellow potter, that the burning off of the wd40 in the kiln might be hard on the elements. Anyone have an opinion on this?
Bert Gibson
Donna Kat on sun 2 mar 08
On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:57:50 -0800, Bert Gibson
wrote:
>I have a textured glass platter I want to use as a hump mold. I have a
black clay (B3 Brown from Laguna) that I want to use as the "body" and
then inlay a white slip in the texture.
>
>My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay
and the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult
to remove from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to
use wd-40 unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar
the surface with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>Bert Gibson
>
>______________________________________________
VERY thin, cheap version of saran wrap. Smooth it onto the clay so you
don't have wrinkles and then put this on your platter that has a very
light dusting of powder (baby powder?).
Donna
Donna Kat on sun 2 mar 08
On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 09:56:31 -0500, William & Susan Schran User
wrote:
>On 2/29/08 10:57 PM, "Bert Gibson" wrote:
>
>> My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the black
clay and
>> the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going to be difficult to
remove
>> from the clay surface before I apply the slip. I don't want to use wd-40
>> unless I have to and am afraid any kind of paper is going to mar the
surface
>> with wrinkle lines. Any suggestions?
>
>Use vegetable spray.
>
>Bill
Bill and John, isn't this going to cause real problems for apply slip?
Ellen Currans on sun 2 mar 08
Bert, I am sending you a photo of a platter that I make using a pattern cut=20=
into the back of a glass bowl. =C2=A0I use WD40.
(That will be in a separate e-mail to you, since I can't send it to Clayart.=
)
I suggest that anyone concerned about WD40 go to Google and do some reading.=
=C2=A0If you go to www.wd40.com you can even print out the Material Safety=20=
Data Sheet=C2=A0and I think you will find your fears are greatly exaggerated=
. =C2=A0 If you know how to change the oil in your car or put gas in your la=
wn mower, you can handle WD40 safely. =C2=A0 It is harmful or fatal if swall=
owed, so don't drink it! =C2=A0It is combustible, like lamp oil, so keep it=20=
away from fires or cigarettes. =C2=A0 High concentrations in the air may cau=
se nasal and respiratory irritation and central nervous effects such as head=
aches, nausea or dizziness, so don't spray it into the air if you are using=20=
it for your clay work on a regular basis. =C2=A0And don't sniff it, if it is=
your inclination to sniff strange things.
I have been using WD40 for at least l5 years, maybe 20 (time just flies by w=
hen you are having fun) and I might spend 4 or 5 hours a day making slab for=
ms. =C2=A0 I have never had any of the possible effects listed in the MSDS.=20=
=C2=A0I use very little for each piece and I don't use the spray bottle.=20=
=C2=A0I buy it by the gallon and apply just a dab to the form using a plasti=
c slip trailing bottle (about a half teaspoon depending on the size of the f=
orm). =C2=A0I then spread it around with a 1 1/2 inch foam brush to cover ev=
ery part of the mold (glass, ceramic, wood, plastic). =C2=A0There is no spra=
y in the air to inhale, and very little smell even around =C2=A0my slab tabl=
e. =C2=A0It works better than anything else I have tried when you want to im=
press clay into an intricate carved =C2=A0solid surface without it sticking.=
=C2=A0(I don't use it on plaster.) =C2=A0 It allows you to place your clay=20=
on a form and slide it around into position, which you cannot do on plaster.=
=C2=A0When you want to trim the edges you do not have any plastic or cheese=
cloth in the way of a clean cut with a cheese slicer. It has allowed me to d=
o away completely with heavy plaster molds, and continue on as a production=20=
potter at 75. =C2=A0You can buy WD40 at Auto Parts stores or Farm Implement=20=
stores for around $l7.00 a gallon. =C2=A0It has gone up in price in the past=
few years but a gallon lasts me for several years.
I have never heard of any problem with electric kiln elements from WD40 burn=
off. =C2=A0My bisque kiln , a Skutt KM 1227 automatic, is l2 years old, and=20=
we have never had to replace the elements. =C2=A0 Probably 60 percent of my=20=
work is slab work using WD40. =C2=A0By the time the piece is dry enough to g=
o in the kiln you would have a hard time finding any WD40 (although I suspec=
t a chemist with the right equipment might be able to find some residue.)=20=
=C2=A0 There is no smell of WD40, just the usual smell of burning organics w=
hen bisqueing. =C2=A0It looks just like any other bone dry pot. =C2=A0At tha=
t stage or leather hard it does not resist stains or slips or glaze. =C2=A0M=
istakes that go back into the clay slop with a bit of WD40 on them do not ef=
fect the clay in any way. =C2=A0I work with Cone 10 stoneware so I can only=20=
speak for that.
If you want to try it and only have the usual small spray bottle on hand, sp=
ray it into a wadded up kleenex or paper towel and use that to spread it on=20=
your form, rather than spray it directly on the pot from a foot or so away.=20=
=C2=A0That will keep it out of the air if it is a concern for you. =C2=A0 Li=
ke a lot of the other materials and equipment we use in the studio, it is on=
ly unsafe or hazardous if you are careless or stupid. =C2=A0If you already h=
ave pre-existing eye, ski =C2=A0or respiratory conditions perhaps you will c=
hoose to use green soap or Pam (I wouldn't want to inhale that either). =C2=
=A0=C2=A0
Ellen Currans
Dundee, Oregon
=C2=A0
-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Gibson
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 7:26 am
Subject: Re: Release agent for hump mold
Thanks for the suggestions. Had some emails asking why not use wd40. It had=20=
been=20
suggested to me, by a fellow potter, that the burning off of the wd40 in the=
=20
kiln might be hard on the elements. Anyone have an opinion on this?
Bert Gibson
____________________________________________________________________________=
__
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.=
org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.co=
m
=20
Snail Scott on sun 2 mar 08
On Mar 1, 2008, at 11:00 PM, Bert Gibson wrote:
> ...what can I use as a releasing agent between the black clay and the
> glass...
Why not sift a light dusting of the same clay body in dry form?
Even if it doesn't stick to the glass everywhere, it will help a lot.
You could also probably use mold soap, since you are inlaying
and not coating the surface with your decoration.
-Snail
Snail Scott on mon 3 mar 08
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 07:26:14 -0800
> From: Bert Gibson
> ...It had been suggested to me, by a fellow potter, that the burning
> off of the wd40 in the kiln might be hard on the elements. Anyone have
> an opinion on this?
USING a kiln is hard on the elements! Anything we do that
involves turning it on will cause wear on the elements.
(And even a few things that involve no power at all.) The
issue is, will doing this shorten the life of those elements
significantly more than normal wear and tear? I doubt it.
There's just not that much substance to burn in a light
coating of WD-40. Or even many light coatings. Yeah, it
will be worse than burning out really clean clay, but I'll bet
it's not much worse than burning out a 'dirty' clay.
Your elements are tools that will get used up someday,
and replaced. If you have to replace them a little sooner,
is it worth it to use a convenient and practical method that
saves time or effort in other respects? How much sooner?
And how much savings? Where's the balance point?
You might have to find out experimentally.
Not advocating WD-40, necessarily, just observing the
ways we might consider cost and benefit. My extremely
groggy clay wears tools down to sad little nubs in no
time. Should I give up grog to save the tools? Or accept
their fleeting existence? Practicality requires at least a
rough cost/benefit analysis, and chewing through tools
may not be a sustainable practice if done to excess.
That said, the end purpose is to produce the work. Tools
are a means, not an end in themselves. That's what makes
them tools. Don't sacrifice the work to preserve the tools.
-Snail
KATHI LESUEUR on mon 3 mar 08
On Feb 29, 2008, at 10:57 PM, Bert Gibson wrote:
> I have a textured glass platter I want to use as a hump mold. I
> have a black clay (B3 Brown from Laguna) that I want to use as the
> "body" and then inlay a white slip in the texture.
>
> My question is what can I use as a releasing agent between the
> black clay and the glass. I think anything like cornstarch is going
> to be difficult to remove from the clay surface before I apply the
> slip. I don't want to use wd-40 unless I have to and am afraid any
> kind of paper is going to mar the surface with wrinkle lines. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Bert Gibson
>
>
The cornstarch will easily wipe off with little, if any, effect on
the texture. Just use a damp sponge and a light tough.
Kathi LeSueur
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