Ingeborg Foco on tue 11 mar 08
Hi,
I have had a major problem with my SKutt 1027 or is it 1018! It is old and
has been a work horse for me for more than 20 years. I only bisque in my
electric kilns so they do last a very long time. Have never had to replace
the elements but I think that might be the next thing to go.
I was bisquing a load in the little kiln and a load in the big Skutt kiln.
I drove to the studio at 7 a.m. and turned both on to low and came back
home. Usually I only run one kiln but since they are on separate circuits
it isn't really an issue. I only have one removable probe and put it into
the big kiln. Both kilns are manual with Dawson kiln sitters.
At 11:00 when I went to the studio to open the shop, the big kiln read 500
degrees. I put the probe into the little one and it read 400 degrees. I
didn't think anything about it and went on with my work day. It was a busy
day with customers and all and I never checked the little kiln with the
probe again but later on...much later I noticed that it was hardly hot.
Strange.
I called Skutt the next day and tried to figure out what really happened and
what I should do to fix it . The tech thought perhaps I needed a new tube
assembly - the part where the cone is placed and the kiln shuts off with the
falling weight. That little number costs 100 bucks plus shipping. I
decided to think about it and try to do more trouble shooting. I then
noticed the timer on the kiln sitter was at 12 and I had set it at 14. It
would indicate that the kiln only ran for 2 hours and then mysteriously shut
off. Why, I don't know. The entire Dawson Kiln sitter costs around $500 to
replace plus shipping.
Is it worth it for me to even fix this kiln and fix it how? I didn't check
into the cost of the element replacement but realistically element failure
is highly probable to happen next.. What I don't want to do is spend $100
plus for the tube assembly to realize that it needs an entire new kiln
sitter box.
I installed the the firing gauge and checked the travel sensing rod and all
seems fine. The position of the release claw and weight trigger seem to be
fine as well. Can anyone tell me what might be the problem with my kiln
other than the fact that it is old and maybe a little tired.
I thank you for any insight you can give me.
--
Sincerely,
Ingeborg
www.thepottersworkshop.com
William & Susan Schran User on wed 12 mar 08
On 3/11/08 10:23 PM, "Ingeborg Foco" wrote:
> I installed the the firing gauge and checked the travel sensing rod and all
> seems fine. The position of the release claw and weight trigger seem to be
> fine as well. Can anyone tell me what might be the problem with my kiln
> other than the fact that it is old and maybe a little tired.
>
> I thank you for any insight you can give me.
Test the operation of the sitter's timer by turning the knob only to 1 or 2
hours, push in the button and listen if you can hear the sitter timer
running. Some I have can be heard running if you get your ear down next to
it. Leave it for an hour and come back to see if it has moved. If it has
moved it may be something in the mechanism corroded, perhaps the cam. If
not, it may just be the timer motor. You can buy just the limit timer motor
for about $50 - $60.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Michael Wendt on wed 12 mar 08
Ingeborg,
Somebody is pulling your leg.
Check out Seattle Pottery Supply.
The entire kiln sitter is listed there
for $135 new.
I just got the top row of bricks, both the
top and bottom elements, two control knobs
and a brand new Dawson Kiln sitter with
timer from Cress for $248.00 including
shipping. I say if the unit is in otherwise good
condition, repair it.
Beware:
Before you order the parts, take time to
verify you have power to the kiln. This
is the number one cause of electrical
failures in all kinds of equipment.
Either a tripped breaker or a loose or
failed connection that costs almost nothing
to fix is preferable to spending hundreds
on a part if the part is still good.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
Marcia Selsor on wed 12 mar 08
DId you check your circuit breaker?
Maybe firing together tripped because of a power surge.
Sounds like you had the power shut off. If it is the time, then
maybe it is time for a new kiln if this one is 20 years old.
I kept my baby test kiln when I moved and sold all the others. I now
have relatively new kilns, controllers, the works. I love'em.
Marcia Selsor
http://marciaselsor.com
Ingeborg Foco on wed 12 mar 08
Marcia, Bill and Michael
Yes, I checked the breaker and it was fine. Both of the kilns are on
separate breakers and really should not trip and did not. They are both
manual and not nearly as sensitive to power surges.
I can push the button in and the on light comes on but unfortunately, the
minute I release my finger the button pops out and the kiln shuts off.
Maybe I could use a toothpick to hold it in to test the timer???? Is that
safe to do? Yes No? I thought about doing that to see if the timer is
actualy working. I've used toothpicks in a pinch before but well...won't
mention how as you'll most likely lecture me.
I just hate it when stuff breaks down at the most inconvenient time and
don't you just hate it when things don't last :)
Michael,
Thanks for the suggestion. Will check for any lose connections and I guess
if I can get the whole works for that price it is well worth it. The Gulf
Coast climate is harsh compared to the Pacific Northwest and unfortunately
everything seems to corrode and die before its time. On the other hand, I
can't complain since this kiln has lasted over 20 years without any kind of
repairs.
Sincerely,
Ingeborg
www.thepottersworkshop.com
On Wed, Mar 12, 2008 at 8:38 AM, William & Susan Schran User <
wschran@cox.net> wrote:
> On 3/11/08 10:23 PM, "Ingeborg Foco" wrote:
>
> > I installed the the firing gauge and checked the travel sensing rod and
> all
> > seems fine. The position of the release claw and weight trigger seem to
> be
> > fine as well. Can anyone tell me what might be the problem with my kiln
> > other than the fact that it is old and maybe a little tired.
> >
> > I thank you for any insight you can give me.
>
> Test the operation of the sitter's timer by turning the knob only to 1 or
> 2
> hours, push in the button and listen if you can hear the sitter timer
> running. Some I have can be heard running if you get your ear down next to
> it. Leave it for an hour and come back to see if it has moved. If it has
> moved it may be something in the mechanism corroded, perhaps the cam. If
> not, it may just be the timer motor. You can buy just the limit timer
> motor
> for about $50 - $60.
>
> Bill
>
> --
> William "Bill" Schran
> wschran@cox.net
> wschran@nvcc.edu
> http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
>
>
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--
Arnold Howard on thu 13 mar 08
From: "Ingeborg Foco"
> I can push the button in and the on light comes on but
> unfortunately, the
> minute I release my finger the button pops out and the
> kiln shuts off.
> Maybe I could use a toothpick to hold it in to test the
> timer???? Is that
> safe to do?
The problem may be easy to repair. You should not use a
toothpick to hold the Kiln Sitter button. Instead, unplug
the kiln and remove the switch box that houses the Kiln
Sitter. Pull the box straight out to avoid damaging the Kiln
Sitter tube. Leaving wires attached, clean the backside of
the Kiln Sitter. Canned air is helpful. (But do not blow air
into the Kiln Sitter tube.)
Look at the inside of the front plate. You will see a
locking slide. You can see how the locking slide works by
lifting the weight, pressing the plunger, and then dropping
the weight. Do that repeatedly until you understand how the
Kiln Sitter works.
Check to see if a wire is in the way of the Kiln Sitter
plunger mechanism. That can prevent it from locking in the
on position. Sometimes heat causes a wire to move inside the
switch box.
Something may have fallen into the switch box and is
interfering with the plunger: a matchstick, a piece of dried
clay, a screw that has fallen into the switch box. If
anything lodges where the contact blocks come together, the
plunger will not stay locked on.
The locking catch may be rusted or has material stuck to it.
Or the spring for the latch may be broken.
When you reinstall the switch box, arrange the wires so they
do not interfere with the locking slide that trips when the
weight drops. Also, arrange the wires inside the switch box
so that wires do not touch element connectors or the kiln
case.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
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