Fred --
I've got the same model -- but the process of
upgrading and modernizing is constant for kiln
makers, and there may be differences between
your kiln and mine.
I gather you've already spoken with Rob Battey
about this? I found him very helpful for the
few small issues I had with my kiln. I've never
had the firing-down problem you have, though
we use somewhat similar ramps. Do you have
/use a kiln vent? If so, do you leave it on for
the entire cycle?
I don't have a vent, but I still insert all spy plugs
(the last at about 1600 degrees while heating;
if I do it any sooner I think I see less color
clarity, though I have no way to measure this)
and I leave them in through maybe 1000 F
(often lower) on the way down.
Now this is just me talking, but it seems to
me that the actual heat loss should be higher
in zones 1 and 3 than in zone 2; at least if all
other factors are controlled. If you have all
of your plugs in, I'd suspect a defective sensor.
JM2C, other disclaimers as appropriate --
Steve Slatin --
--- On Fri, 4/18/08, Fred Parker <fhparker@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
From: Fred Parker <fhparker@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Firing an L&L e23t-3?
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Friday, April 18, 2008, 7:39 PM
I recently got an L&L e23t-3. I thought the transition from a manual
Skutt would be easy, but it turns out there is more to it than I thought.
When firing a program that includes a couple of downfire segments I've
been getting an error indicating an excessive temperature difference
between two thermocouples during the fast cool segment (500F/hr from ^6 to
1900F.) Apparently the middle zone cools slower than either the top or
bottom. Eventually the difference between the middle and top reaches 50F
and the controller gets an error/shuts down.
To remedy this I have been stacking the kiln VERY loosly -- only a bottom,
middle and top shelf -- basically two elements between each two shelves.
This helps in that it still gets close to the 50F difference, but not
quite there. L&L helped me reset the controller to average the three temp
readings instead of reading the actual temperature. This should even it
out somewhat, but I am wondering If others with this kiln have to fire
with this stacking arrangement. I do some small items (maybe 2" tall) so
having to load only three shelves gets terribly inefficient.
I thought a three-zone controller meant the computer read temperatures of
the three zones and supplied (or withheld) power as needed to maintain
even heat distribution. My problem happens when the kiln is essentially
in "free fall" from one temp to a lower temp where it does not need
any
power at all. I would assume that under this circumstance if the kiln
isn't cooling as fast as the program specifies, then it would just wait
until one or more thermocouples reaches the target temperature, then
switch back in. Apparently, this is not the case. Does this mean I have
to second-guess maximum possible cooling rate based on ambient conditions
for each firing and program accordingly? I certainly hope not.
If anyone has experience with this kiln and controller I would be most
grateful for advice.
Thanks,
Fred Parker
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