Ishee Hopper on thu 10 apr 08
Hello All,
I just found one of my favorite glazes. It is Forest Green, a variation
of Amber Celedon. Where did it come from? I have no clue--too many hears
ago. Anyway it is a ^10 reduction glaze. I am wanting to modify it to
fire mature at ^6. Any contribution will be greatly appreciated. The
glaze is as follows:
Sheffield Slip 36.0
Custer Feldspar 22.0
Gerstley Borate 3.0
Wollastonite 14.0
Flint 14.0
Kaolin (EPK) 3.0
Whiting 8.00
Add: Cobalt Carbonate 2.0 and Milled Rutile 1.0
It is very transparent and glossy; it tends to run. I usually apply
thinner at the bottom of my work.
Thanks to all in advance!
Ishee
Ron Roy on thu 17 apr 08
Hi Ishee,
Would you like it converted to use Frit 3134 first or should I do it with GB?
If you have a current analysis for sheffield clay that might be helpful as well.
RR
>Hello All,
>I just found one of my favorite glazes. It is Forest Green, a variation
>of Amber Celedon. Where did it come from? I have no clue--too many hears
>ago. Anyway it is a ^10 reduction glaze. I am wanting to modify it to
>fire mature at ^6. Any contribution will be greatly appreciated. The
>glaze is as follows:
>Sheffield Slip 36.0
>Custer Feldspar 22.0
>Gerstley Borate 3.0
>Wollastonite 14.0
>Flint 14.0
>Kaolin (EPK) 3.0
>Whiting 8.00
>Add: Cobalt Carbonate 2.0 and Milled Rutile 1.0
>
>It is very transparent and glossy; it tends to run. I usually apply
>thinner at the bottom of my work.
>
>Thanks to all in advance!
>Ishee
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Ishee Hopper on fri 18 apr 08
Hi Ron,
I am open to using the Frit 3134. Sorry I don't have the current analysis
for the Sheffield Clay. Thank you for responding to my post.
Ishee
Mayssan Farra on sat 18 jun 11
,Yes I know I know
I should go to the archives b=3D
Dear Clayarters:=3D0A=3D0A,Yes I know I know=3D0A=3D0AI should go to the ar=
chives b=3D
ut this is so much easier and to the point and I have not written since I h=
=3D
ad to close my studio.=3D0A=3D0AI am now in a community studio and it seems=
my =3D
limited knowledge of glaze is really the most knowledge in this studio:) pl=
=3D
us I have you all to ask.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0ASo;=3D0A=3D0A1: What is the best wa=
y to make =3D
a dipping glaze into an easily brushable one? =3D0A=3D0A2: We have a Chun r=
ed t=3D
hat is very thyxotropic (Spelling?) that I would like to make it less so, m=
=3D
ostly for dipping, is there a way?=3D0A=3D0AThese are all commercial glazes=
and=3D
will have to stay that way because of set rules. =3D0A=3D0A=3D0AThanks for=
the h=3D
elp,=3D0AI promise to report back on what worked.=3D0A=3D0AMayssan, in hot =
Indian=3D
Land SC. I love it here but miss the WV mountains and my personal Studio.=
=3D
=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0http://clayette.blogspot.com
Ron Roy on sat 18 jun 11
Hi Mayssan,
Do you mean the red glaze settles out?
Let me know if you want to try adding some epsom salts - that may help.
RR
Quoting Mayssan Farra :
> ,Yes I know I know
>
> I should go to the archives b
> Dear Clayarters:
>
> ,Yes I know I know
>
> I should go to the archives but this is so much easier and to the =3D20
> point and I have not written since I had to close my studio.
>
> I am now in a community studio and it seems my limited knowledge of =3D20
> glaze is really the most knowledge in this studio:) plus I have you =3D20
> all to ask.
>
>
> So;
>
> 1: What is the best way to make a dipping glaze into an easily brushable =
o=3D
ne?
>
> 2: We have a Chun red that is very thyxotropic (Spelling?) that I =3D20
> would like to make it less so, mostly for dipping, is there a way?
>
> These are all commercial glazes and will have to stay that way =3D20
> because of set rules.
>
>
> Thanks for the help,
> I promise to report back on what worked.
>
> Mayssan, in hot Indian Land SC. I love it here but miss the WV =3D20
> mountains and my personal Studio.
>
> =3DA0http://clayette.blogspot.com
>
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