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kiln foundations/kilns

updated sun 20 apr 08

 

mel jacobson on sat 19 apr 08


as i said this morning.
the height to the door is very important.
and toe space is very nice. it would be very
easy to cantilever the second row of block.
maybe a couple of ./three inches.

one row of block must often be place on its side
so you can get the correct height.
it matters not a bit.
it is foundation.
it is common folks to place a set of block
as a step stool to the door. works nice. that can even
be mudded in.

we usually put the first base block facing up.
sometimes we stand them on end. it is all
about getting the kiln square and plumb, and the
proper door height. it works out like a small
puzzle, move them around, see how it shakes out.
i have never seen a kiln fail
because the concrete blocks were not lined up
the `right way`. i have seen a few kilns built on
slanted slabs. a couple i have been involved in.
run to the hardware and get sacked concrete to
level the kiln foundation. i tell the customer:
`gd it, tell that cement guy, no drainage, flat, true.
if not, do not pay him. marbles cannot roll on a
kiln pad. ever. can you build a house at a 6 degree
angle?

we add the expanded metal on the brick base.
i would never use cement board, or hardy board.
just don't....as it locks the floor to the foundation.
no air. (have had a few disputes about that...but,
one thing i know...expanded metal is permanent and flat.)
most industrial furnaces have metal foundations, and
lift off the ground, and have air spaces.

your kiln breaths four sides and the top.
why not the bottom?
my take.
if the last row of block is on its side...there will be a nice
air flow through the base...and can you ever stack kiln
posts in those cubbies. sets of cones tuck under there.
and a good place to hide your burnz-o-matic torch.
( a torch is a great lighter, use it when you turn your
burners on, also great to pre/heat your stack...do it
every time...burn off the gases, and heat the stack
to get it to draw...never start a kiln with a cold stack.
just take out the damper, burn the torch in the slot...two minutes.
unburned gases can back flash...burn them off, and get the
air moving up the stack. (or pulling, whatever the physics.)
mel
from minnetonka:
website http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart site:
http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html