jonathan byler on mon 28 apr 08
david,
how about providing us with a recipe? I need to make some bits and
pieces out of castable myself, but would be much happier using
something tried and true than reinventing the wheel right away.
-jon
jon byler
3-D Building Coordinator
Art Department
Auburn University, AL 36849
On Apr 28, 2008, at 8:23 PM, David Hendley wrote:
> Insulating firebrick is golden material for making castable
> refractory. I save all my broken and crumbling IFBs for
> future use. I lay them out on a slab and break them with a
> heavy sledge and from time to time shovel the pieces through
> 1/4" hardware cloth. The pieces that don't make it through are
> crushed some more.
> I have also used broken bisqueware in my castable mixes with
> good results. When a local firebrick factory closed down, I
> was able to buy a big pile of left-over coarse bauxite grog -
> another great castable ingredient. I also got their fireclay,
> so I made a castable mix composed of fireclay, grog, crushed
> IFBs, sand, and Portland cement - everything was free except
> the cement! Ten years later, the chimney I made with this
> mixture for my wood kiln is still in excellent condition.
>
> I do have a question, though - If you have useable IFBs,
> why not just use them to build a brick kiln? With a table
> saw they can easily be made into wedge or arch shapes
> as needed.
>
> David Hendley
> Maydelle, Texas
> david(at)farmpots(dot)com
> http://www.farmpots.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I am starting to break the ground on a new kiln. I am planning on
>> building a 5-7 meter long snake kiln. I am interested in mixing up
>> castable material that can stand firing to a temperature of at least
>> 1,300 C.
>> Any input on what a cheap mix would be? I am in Japan so I will
>> have to
>> access local material.
>> I think I can get my hands on a large quantity soft brick. Is
>> there any
>> possibility there?
>> I seem to only get delivery of the clayart digest sporadically so if
>> possible could replies be sent to the list and to me directly at
>> togeii@yahoo.com
>> Thank you,
>> Dave
>> davidmorrisonpike.com
>
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Dave Pike on mon 28 apr 08
Hello Everyone,
I am starting to break the ground on a new kiln. I am planning on
building a 5-7 meter long snake kiln. I am interested in mixing up
castable material that can stand firing to a temperature of at least
1,300 C.
Any input on what a cheap mix would be? I am in Japan so I will have to
access local material.
I think I can get my hands on a large quantity soft brick. Is there any
possibility there?
I seem to only get delivery of the clayart digest sporadically so if
possible could replies be sent to the list and to me directly at
togeii@yahoo.com
Thank you,
Dave
davidmorrisonpike.com
Duff bogen on mon 28 apr 08
Dave
Soft brick- anything you can get in large quantities or free is useful (details like working temp. can be worked out later)
Work with tradition- don't fight it. (what comes to mind are pictures of old time kilns made of raw clay blocks- castable implies formwork, the smaller the cast unit the cheaper the forms=> by which I mean to say "If you got a shoe box ouit of a dumpster and cast 10,000 blocks you have one cost but if you cast the kiln momolittically the form work might cost more than the refrctories")
"a temperature of at least1,300 C." why this temp? Is this what your clay wants you to do or is this what you want to do with your clay? (I've seen some gorgeous snake kiln pots that are only fired to 1100 C.)
Like all free advise
Ya gets what you pay for.
DRB
Seattle
Dave Pike wrote:
Hello Everyone,
I am starting to break the ground on a new kiln. I am planning on
building a 5-7 meter long snake kiln. I am interested in mixing up
castable material that can stand firing to a temperature of at least
1,300 C.
Any input on what a cheap mix would be? I am in Japan so I will have to
access local material.
I think I can get my hands on a large quantity soft brick. Is there any
possibility there?
I seem to only get delivery of the clayart digest sporadically so if
possible could replies be sent to the list and to me directly at
togeii@yahoo.com
Thank you,
Dave
davidmorrisonpike.com
______________________________________________________________________________
Clayart members may send postings to: clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list, post messages, change your
subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the list here: http://www.acers.org/cic/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots2@visi.com
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David Hendley on mon 28 apr 08
Insulating firebrick is golden material for making castable
refractory. I save all my broken and crumbling IFBs for
future use. I lay them out on a slab and break them with a
heavy sledge and from time to time shovel the pieces through
1/4" hardware cloth. The pieces that don't make it through are
crushed some more.
I have also used broken bisqueware in my castable mixes with
good results. When a local firebrick factory closed down, I
was able to buy a big pile of left-over coarse bauxite grog -
another great castable ingredient. I also got their fireclay,
so I made a castable mix composed of fireclay, grog, crushed
IFBs, sand, and Portland cement - everything was free except
the cement! Ten years later, the chimney I made with this
mixture for my wood kiln is still in excellent condition.
I do have a question, though - If you have useable IFBs,
why not just use them to build a brick kiln? With a table
saw they can easily be made into wedge or arch shapes
as needed.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
> I am starting to break the ground on a new kiln. I am planning on
> building a 5-7 meter long snake kiln. I am interested in mixing up
> castable material that can stand firing to a temperature of at least
> 1,300 C.
> Any input on what a cheap mix would be? I am in Japan so I will have to
> access local material.
> I think I can get my hands on a large quantity soft brick. Is there any
> possibility there?
> I seem to only get delivery of the clayart digest sporadically so if
> possible could replies be sent to the list and to me directly at
> togeii@yahoo.com
> Thank you,
> Dave
> davidmorrisonpike.com
Donald Burroughs on wed 30 apr 08
Try the following:
Robert Archambeau firebrick body
--------------------------------
100 Fireclay med. coarseness not air floated
75 Fine Grog
100 Filler Tried Walnut Shell (expense and toxic during first fire. Needs
to be well ventilated) replace with ground corn cobs, feed grain or
something that is organic and seed shell like. 14-30 mesh
Some feldspar and flint to taste
Enough Ball clay to "glue" everything together
Note: Be sure to soak shell/organic filler then mix body to stiff mortar
state. This makes a great refractory and also an interesting sculptural
body. Do not bisque fire in an electric kiln or in enclosed area.
Regards, Don Burroughs
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