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hendley bat cleats and archives access q?

updated tue 3 jun 08

 

Kelly Johnston on mon 2 jun 08


Thanks for the link and photos, Taylor -- I get it! But just to be
sure, I basically cut my bat slightly larger than the wheelhead, then
add the cleats on the underside so the bat fits snugly on my
wheelhead with the cleats holding it in place. I guess the weight of
the clay keeps it from flying off in a nasty way.

I've heard of a method whereby you cut the bat to fit the wheelhead,
then attach a length of garden hose that's been slit to provide a "C"
shaped clamp and somehow fixed to the top of the bat. You clamp the
free edge to the wheelhead and it stays put. Cleats sound like less
fussing, and I'm better having a visual to work from!

On another note, I can't access the archives any more. Like Richard
Aerni mentioned in his post about the archives, there is a LOOONG
wait to get in and then when I put in what I'm looking for, another
LOOONG wait only to be told I am not authorized to access the
archives -- ack! Is it just me?

Thanks again for all the help!

Kelly in Emerald, Qld Australia
enjoying the sunshine after the rain

Taylor Hendrix on mon 2 jun 08


Hey Kelly,

Glad we could help. Yep, the bat stays on because of the friction
between the edge of the wheel head and the edges of the cleats. Make
them just snug enough to slip on and off. Don't have to make them so
tight you need a rubber mallet to put them on.

I have cut bats much larger than my 14 inch wheel head, but you are
right all you need is the space around the edge for the cleats. those
cleats are great too because they act as feet when you have the bat
sitting on the work bench--easy to grab and pick up. That can be a bit
of a problem when you are putting those bats on boards but David has a
great rack system for those bats. I bet if you ask nicely he will take
a pic and post it or put it up somewhere.

Taylor, in Rockport TX

On Mon, Jun 2, 2008 at 1:20 AM, Kelly Johnston
wrote:
... But just to be
> sure, I basically cut my bat slightly larger than the wheelhead, then
> add the cleats on the underside so the bat fits snugly on my
> wheelhead with the cleats holding it in place. I guess the weight of
> the clay keeps it from flying off in a nasty way.
...

David Hendley on mon 2 jun 08


----- Original Message -----
>Thanks for the link and photos, Taylor -- I get it! But just to be
>sure, I basically cut my bat slightly larger than the wheelhead, then
>add the cleats on the underside so the bat fits snugly on my
>wheelhead with the cleats holding it in place. I guess the weight of
>the clay keeps it from flying off in a nasty way.

Well, that's it basically, but the bat needs to be more than slightly
larger than the wheelhead. At least 3" larger in diameter is
required to accommodate the width of the cleats (1 1/2" each
if you use 1 X 2 lumber).
The weight of the clay has nothing to do with holding the bat
in place. The bat should fit snugly, so it has to be pounded
down a bit when installed. If, after a lot of use, it gets loose,
a shim of thin wood or stiff cardboard can be glued to the
inside surface of one cleat to tighten it up again.

David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com

Joseph Herbert on mon 2 jun 08


I have seen drawing of a cleated version of bat that is designed to use a
wedge to tighten onto the wheel head. One cleat is not exactly tangential
to the circumference of the wheel and a tapered wooden wedge is tapped in
between the cleat and wheel head rim to tighten the fit on the wheel head.
This has some advantage in that the construction need no be quite so exact
to assure a tight fit.

Like I said, I saw a drawing. David has actually done his.

Joe

David Hendly wrote:
The weight of the clay has nothing to do with holding the bat
in place. The bat should fit snugly, so it has to be pounded
down a bit when installed. If, after a lot of use, it gets loose,
a shim of thin wood or stiff cardboard can be glued to the
inside surface of one cleat to tighten it up again.

David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com


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