Amanda Bohnsack on tue 10 jun 08
Hi All-
I=B9m having trouble Mastering the Majolica from Mastering Cone Six =
Glazes.
First of all, this glaze is settling like cement! It takes me 10 =
minutes to
get it back into slurry... Thoughts? Secondly, it seems to be really
temperamental in the application process. I=B9ve applied it too thin... =
To
thick... And the only place I seem to have gotten it right was on my =
initial
test tile! Does this glaze like a double dip? Really, I=B9ve made it =
crawl,
I=B9ve made it show every and all thickness discrepancies... I=B9m =
looking for a
nice satin matte white that I can fire decals on... Should I be trying
another glaze? Anything would be helpful before I mess up any more =
mugs!
Thanks!
John Hesselberth on tue 10 jun 08
Hi Amanda,
The Maiolica glaze in MC6Gs has a lot of Neph Sy in it which is =20
probably causing some of your problem. While adding 2% bentonite =20
would help, we have also reformulated that glaze using a mix of ball =20
clay and EPK or all ball clay and no EPK. We did this to give a less =20
dusty surface for brushwork but it could help some of your concerns. =20
I'll send you those variants if you want to try them.
But there may be a better answer. Take Glossy Base 1 and add 5% tin =20
oxide. That give a beautiful and reliable white satin that I call, =20
surprisingly enough, White Satin. Yes, I know it is from a glossy =20
base, but there is enough tin oxide in it to give it a satin surface. =20=
It is the glaze that I now use as my primary liner glaze, but it =20
sounds like it may be perfect for your needs.
Regards,
John
On Jun 10, 2008, at 12:14 AM, Amanda Bohnsack wrote:
> Hi All-
>
> I=92m having trouble Mastering the Majolica from Mastering Cone Six =20=
> Glazes.
> First of all, this glaze is settling like cement! It takes me 10 =20
> minutes to
> get it back into slurry... Thoughts? Secondly, it seems to be really
> temperamental in the application process. I=92ve applied it too =20
> thin... To
> thick... And the only place I seem to have gotten it right was on =20
> my initial
> test tile! Does this glaze like a double dip? Really, I=92ve made =20=
> it crawl,
> I=92ve made it show every and all thickness discrepancies... I=92m =20
> looking for a
> nice satin matte white that I can fire decals on... Should I be trying
> another glaze? Anything would be helpful before I mess up any more =20=
> mugs!
>
> Thanks!
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Lee Love on tue 10 jun 08
On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 11:14 PM, Amanda Bohnsack wrote:
> nice satin matte white that I can fire decals on... Should I be trying
> another glaze? Anything would be helpful before I mess up any more mugs!
Amanda,
For majolica, I would go to an expert. Linda Arbuckle is my
choice. I like her approach. All her information is listed on the
web for free here:
http://lindaarbuckle.com/handouts/
Majolica:
http://lindaarbuckle.com/handouts/majolica_handout2007.pdf
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"We are such stuff as dreams are made on, and our little life is
rounded with a sleep." --PROSPERO Tempest Shakespeare
Karin Givon on tue 10 jun 08
I use bentonite for that cement thing (the bottom settler) and I =20
can't see that it changes the glaze --but if this glaze is boggling =20
you, use another one! There are many many glazes, and you just need =20
one that doesn't disappear your colorants....
On the other side of this, I have one white glaze called Yellow Salt =20
that I keep 'as is' altho it settles into cement because when it's =20
fired in oxidation it's a gorgeous white that I want. I haven't even =20=
tried bentonite on it yet, altho I probably will.
Don't be afraid to experiment. I have a potter friend who, whenever =20
something screws up, says, " ah, yes, it's just God telling you that =20=
you need more practice!"
I'm a buddhist.
Oh well. Keep on truckin'.
Karin
On Jun 9, 2008, at 9:14 PM, Amanda Bohnsack wrote:
> Hi All-
>
> I=92m having trouble Mastering the Majolica from Mastering Cone Six =20=
> Glazes.
> First of all, this glaze is settling like cement! It takes me 10 =20
> minutes to
> get it back into slurry... Thoughts? Secondly, it seems to be really
> temperamental in the application process. I=92ve applied it too =20
> thin... To
> thick... And the only place I seem to have gotten it right was on =20
> my initial
> test tile! Does this glaze like a double dip? Really, I=92ve made =20=
> it crawl,
> I=92ve made it show every and all thickness discrepancies... I=92m =20
> looking for a
> nice satin matte white that I can fire decals on... Should I be trying
> another glaze? Anything would be helpful before I mess up any more =20=
> mugs!
>
> Thanks!
Jennifer Buckner on wed 11 jun 08
John,
I have a very large batch of Glossy Base 2. Would this work with the
addition of tin oxide as well?
Jennifer
norther VT
At 06:50 AM 6/10/2008, John Hesselberth wrote:
>But there may be a better answer. Take Glossy Base 1 and add 5% tin
>oxide. That give a beautiful and reliable white satin that I call,
>surprisingly enough, White Satin. Yes, I know it is from a glossy
>base, but there is enough tin oxide in it to give it a satin surface.
>It is the glaze that I now use as my primary liner glaze, but it
>sounds like it may be perfect for your needs.
>
Jennifer G. Buckner jennifer@buckner.cc
John Hesselberth on wed 11 jun 08
Hi Jennifer,
Probably. Give it a try on a small amount. I haven't personally tried
that one.
Regards,
John
On Jun 11, 2008, at 5:12 AM, Jennifer Buckner wrote:
> John,
>
> I have a very large batch of Glossy Base 2. Would this work with the
> addition of tin oxide as well?
>
> Jennifer
> norther VT
>
> At 06:50 AM 6/10/2008, John Hesselberth wrote:
>
>> But there may be a better answer. Take Glossy Base 1 and add 5% tin
>> oxide. That give a beautiful and reliable white satin that I call,
>> surprisingly enough, White Satin. Yes, I know it is from a glossy
>> base, but there is enough tin oxide in it to give it a satin surface.
>> It is the glaze that I now use as my primary liner glaze, but it
>> sounds like it may be perfect for your needs.
>>
John Hesselberth
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Alisha Clarke on wed 11 jun 08
Karin,
Are you firing your Yellow Salt glaze to ^6 in oxidation? I love that
glaze for high-fire reduction, but was thinking of checking it out to
see if it would work at ^6 reduction or ^6 oxidation (with
modifications if necessary).
Leesh
On Tue, Jun 10, 2008 at 1:21 PM, Karin Givon wrote:
> I use bentonite for that cement thing (the bottom settler) and I can't see
> that it changes the glaze --but if this glaze is boggling you, use another
> one! There are many many glazes, and you just need one that doesn't
> disappear your colorants....
> On the other side of this, I have one white glaze called Yellow Salt that I
> keep 'as is' altho it settles into cement because when it's fired in
> oxidation it's a gorgeous white that I want. I haven't even tried bentonite
> on it yet, altho I probably will.
> Don't be afraid to experiment. I have a potter friend who, whenever
> something screws up, says, " ah, yes, it's just God telling you that you
> need more practice!"
> I'm a buddhist.
> Oh well. Keep on truckin'.
> Karin
> On Jun 9, 2008, at 9:14 PM, Amanda Bohnsack wrote:
>
>> Hi All-
>>
>> I'm having trouble Mastering the Majolica from Mastering Cone Six Glazes.
>> First of all, this glaze is settling like cement! It takes me 10 minutes
>> to
>> get it back into slurry... Thoughts? Secondly, it seems to be really
>> temperamental in the application process. I've applied it too thin... To
>> thick... And the only place I seem to have gotten it right was on my
>> initial
>> test tile! Does this glaze like a double dip? Really, I've made it
>> crawl,
>> I've made it show every and all thickness discrepancies... I'm looking for
>> a
>> nice satin matte white that I can fire decals on... Should I be trying
>> another glaze? Anything would be helpful before I mess up any more mugs!
>>
>> Thanks!
>
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Alisha Clarke
Pottery by Leesh: www.alishaclarke.com
Pottery Basics: www.potterybasics.com
Ron Roy on mon 16 jun 08
Hi Amada,
Lots have used that glaze and I have not heard that complaint until now.
What temperature do you bisque to? Do you use cones.
The reason I ask - sometimes - when clay is very absorbent the glaze in the
bucket has to be thin - this can lead to the glaze settling out fast and
hard.
If the ware is bisqued higher (we recommend 04) the glazes can be thicker
in the bucket and don't settle out the way they do when they are thinner.
The other problem may be the local water - I have to use distilled water
with my glazes now that I am on well water for instance.
If you like I can refomrulate that glaze to make it easier to manage. It is
a really wonderful glaze for painting on.
RR
>Hi All-
>
>I'm having trouble Mastering the Majolica from Mastering Cone Six Glazes.
>First of all, this glaze is settling like cement! It takes me 10 minutes to
>get it back into slurry... Thoughts? Secondly, it seems to be really
>temperamental in the application process. I've applied it too thin... To
>thick... And the only place I seem to have gotten it right was on my initial
>test tile! Does this glaze like a double dip? Really, I've made it crawl,
>I've made it show every and all thickness discrepancies... I'm looking for a
>nice satin matte white that I can fire decals on... Should I be trying
>another glaze? Anything would be helpful before I mess up any more mugs!
>
>Thanks!
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
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