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vince's neriage cutter

updated mon 11 aug 08

 

Hank Murrow on tue 5 aug 08


On Aug 5, 2008, at 1:12 PM, Carole Fox wrote:

> I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire
> keeps loosening. Any suggestions?
> Thanks!

Yes Carole;

Use Hank's WireTool with a single wire. Did you get one when you took
my workshop?

Cheers, Hank

Lori Leary on tue 5 aug 08


Hi Carole,

Try putting a washer underneath the hex screw and wrap the wire between
the washer and the screw. When you tighten the screw, be sure to hold
the end of the wire (I use needle nose pliers). Call me if that does
not make sense. I think you have my newer Atlanta number, if not, just
email me off list.

Lee, basically, it is a veneer slicer made using a plywood board, with
four holes drill pressed to accept small pieces of dowel glued upright
(two side by side on each side of the board). Directly below the two
outside dowels is a hex screw and a washer. Thin cut off wire (I use
Tigertail - not the nylon covered kind - you can Google it) is placed
across the board above the dowels. They are then wrapped clockwise
around the screw and tightened as I described above. The veneer slicer
is used to cut thin slices of clay, usually a neriage loaf. The
thickness is adjusted by using small pieces of mat board between the
dowels. Also, it is useful to have a piece of canvas that fits between
the two inner dowels to place the clay on and slide it through the
wire. I hope this makes sense. It's so much easier to show an image.

And to everyone, Vince is a good friend, but even if he wasn't, I would
still highly recommend his book "Clay: A Studio Handbook". It is the
most comprehensive and useful how-to clay book I have ever used. I
really mean it. My copy is is well thumbed and is covered with more
than a little clay. If I was on Clay Jeopardy, I use that book as a as
my reference. And I would win.
Okay, that's enough....I promise not to be so gushy next time. I
couldn't help myself....

Hope this helps,
Lori


Lee Love wrote:
> On 8/6/08, Carole Fox wrote:
>
>> I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps loosening. Any suggestions?
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>
> Carole, Most of us don't have Vince's book. But I do a lot with
> wire cutters. Can you describe the cutter to us?
>
>
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
>
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do.
> There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
>
>
>

Carole Fox on tue 5 aug 08


I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps =
loosening. Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net

Carole Fox on wed 6 aug 08


Lee-
The slicer can be seen here:
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/gallery/techniques/techniques.htm


I think my wire is not thin enough so I will try that first.
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Lee Love"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [CLAYART] Vince's neriage cutter


> On 8/6/08, Carole Fox wrote:
>> I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps =
loosening. Any suggestions?
>> Thanks!
>>
>=20
> Carole, Most of us don't have Vince's book. But I do a lot with
> wire cutters. Can you describe the cutter to us?
>=20
>=20
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
> http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
>=20
> "Let the beauty we love be what we do.
> There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi

Taylor Hendrix on wed 6 aug 08


Lee and others,

Look here --> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/gallery/techniques/techniques.htm

I knew I remembered his tool and I don't own a copy of his book
either. The book is a good book, I have looked at it.

Carol, perhaps your wires are stretching. It is also possible that you
need a washer around the bolt that holds the end of your wire. It
could only be slipping from there. What does Vince's book say about
attaching the wire?

It's such a good solution for slicing off such thin pieces of clay.
That Vince is sharp as a tack.

Taylor, in Rockport TX

On Tue, Aug 5, 2008 at 7:57 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> On 8/6/08, Carole Fox wrote:
>> I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps loosening. Any suggestions?
>> Thanks!
>>
>
> Carole, Most of us don't have Vince's book. But I do a lot with
> wire cutters. Can you describe the cutter to us?

James F on wed 6 aug 08


Carole...

I worked exclusively in wood for many years before being seduced by clay. =
I looked at the design of the neriage slicer on pages 303-304 of Vince's ex=
cellent book=2C and since no one has yet responded=2C I will be so presumpt=
uous as to offer a few ideas.

The only weakness in Vince's elegant design is the method of attaching the =
cutting wire to the base=2C likely a conscious concession for the sake of s=
implicity. The wire is attached to the base board via sheet metal screws=2C=
and relies on the very limited ability of the plywood to take and maintain=
screw threads.

First=2C ensure that you have wound the cutting wire clockwise around the s=
crew before tightening. If wound clockwise=2C the wire will be stretched an=
d tightened as you drive the screw home. If wound anti-clockwise=2C the wir=
e will loosen as you drive the screw.

Assuming the wire is wound correctly=2C the greatest likelihood is that you=
have stripped out the screw hole through over tightening. The design speci=
fied washer head sheet metal screws for holding the wire. While the washer =
head of the screw greatly simplifies the installation of the wire (you don'=
t have to play with a loose washer that you would have to thread the wire u=
nder)=2C the problem arises in that sheet metal screws have very fine threa=
ds. Plywood is not very good at holding screws anyway=2C and the fine threa=
ds of the sheet metal screw just don't leave enough "meat" between the thre=
ads. Wood screws have much coarser threads=2C so the slivers of wood left i=
n between are larger and therefore stronger. This being the case=2C the sim=
plest "down and dirty" fix would be to replace the sheet metal screws with =
pan head (domed top) wood screws and washers. Since the hole is stripped=2C=
you will have to either move up one size in screw diameter or drill new sc=
rew holes a bit back from the originals. I refer to this solution as "down =
and dirty" because it only buys you some time=2C as it too will ultimately =
fail when the hole again strips or the grip of the screw loosens through re=
peated use.

I can offer two more permanent solutions=2C both involving replacing the wo=
od or sheet metal screws with machine screws (straight sides=2C fully threa=
ded=2C like a bolt but with a screw head). What is probably the best soluti=
on is as follows. It assumes you own or can borrow a Forstner bit for your=
drill (you can see a Forstner bit here: http://www.amazon.com/CMT-537-350-=
31-Forstner-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4LLH2/ref=3Dsr_1_12?ie=3DUTF8&s=3Dhi&q=
id=3D1218022847&sr=3D8-12)=2C but could be done somewhat less elegantly wit=
hout one:

Purchase two pan head (domed top) machine screws the same length as the thi=
ckness of your base=2C likely 3/4". I would suggest 1/8" or 3/16" inch diam=
eter. Also purchase two "tee nuts" to fit (matching diameter and thread cou=
nt). You can see a picture of a tee nut here: http://flickr.com/photos/salt=
edwound/4799258/

You will see that the tee nut consists of a flat round barbed "head" and a =
protruding hollow threaded shaft. Using your thinnest drill bit=2C drill yo=
ur existing screw holes completely through the base. Flip the base over=2C =
and from the bottom=2C using your just drilled tiny holes as centers=2C dri=
ll 1/16" deep holes using a Forstner bit slightly larger than the diameter =
of the "head" of your tee nut. The flickr photo referenced above also show=
s this step. Again using the tiny hole as a center=2C now drill out your o=
ld screw holes completely through the base to a diameter just large enough =
to accept the shaft of the tee nut. Use a piece of scrap wood as a backer =
board so you don't bugger up the base as the drill bit exits the wood. Pla=
ce the tee nuts in these concentric holes from the bottom of the base=2C th=
en gently drive the tee nut into the hole=2C sinking the barbs into the woo=
d. The larger hole allows the tee nut to be recessed into the base=2C leav=
ing a flat bottom. If you do not drill the larger hole with the Forstner b=
it=2C the tee nuts will protrude slightly beneath the base=2C requiring you=
to either protect your work surface from scratches or to affix some type o=
f feet to the base=2C perhaps felt stick-on protectors sold at home centers=
.

Flip the base upright=2C thread a washer on each machine screw=2C then thre=
ad one screw into each tee nut. Attach your cutting wire as before=2C maki=
ng certain that the wire is below the washer.

The second solution is as follows:

Purchase two flat head machine screws 1/2" to 3/4" longer than the thicknes=
s of your base=2C and 1/8" or 3/16" in diameter. Purchase two washers and =
two wing nuts to fit.

Again=2C drill through your old screw holes with your tiniest drill bit=2C =
then flip the base over. From the bottom=2C drill countersink holes to acc=
ept the head of your screws so they are slightly recessed. You can see a c=
ountersink hole here: http://flickr.com/photos/markuskolb/232841438/ . Th=
e countersink hole can be drilled with a countersink bit (http://www.amazon=
.com/Mibro-589201-5-Piece-Titanium-Countersinks/dp/B0015AOAT6/ref=3Dsr_1_4?=
ie=3DUTF8&s=3Dhi&qid=3D1218024206&sr=3D1-4)=2C or less accurately by using =
just the very tip of an ordinary twist drill bit with a diameter equal to o=
r slightly larger than the HEAD of your screws. Once the countersinks are =
drilled=2C bore completely through your base with a drill bit just larger i=
n diameter than your screws=2C again using the tiny holes as a centers.

Place your screws through your new holes from the bottom=2C ensuring that t=
he countersinks are deep enough to allow the screw heads to recess ever so =
slightly into the base. Slide the screws back out approximately 1/4". Ver=
y carefully=2C apply epoxy to the UNDERSIDE of the screw heads=2C push the =
screws fully into the countersinks=2C then snug the washers and wing nuts o=
nto the screws from the top=2C just barely tight enough to hold everything =
firm. Wipe up any epoxy that squeezed out the bottom=2C then allow the epox=
y to fully cure.

Once the epoxy is FULLY cured=2C loosen the wing nuts=2C thread on your wir=
e (again=2C be sure it is underneath the washers)=2C and tighten the wing n=
uts.


If any of this is unclear=2C just let me know and I shall attempt to explai=
n it better. I hope this helps.

...James



> Date: Tue=2C 5 Aug 2008 16:12:10 -0400
> From: asilverfox@COMCAST.NET
> Subject: Vince's neriage cutter
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>
> I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps loo=
sening. Any suggestions?
> Thanks!
>
> Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
> Elkton=2C MD
> silverfoxpottery@comcast.net

_________________________________________________________________
Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia=
Contest
http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=3DTXT_TAGHM=

Lee Love on wed 6 aug 08


On 8/6/08, Carole Fox wrote:
> I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps loosening. Any suggestions?
> Thanks!
>

Carole, Most of us don't have Vince's book. But I do a lot with
wire cutters. Can you describe the cutter to us?


--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/

"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi

Vince Pitelka on fri 8 aug 08


Carole Fox wrote:
"I tried to make the neriage slicer in Vince's book but the wire keeps
loosening. Any suggestions?"

Dear Carole -
In such a case it is usually best to go right to the source. Did you make
the slicer from plywood, rather than particle board? That is necessary in
order for the screws to get a good bite and to continue working through many
loosening and re-tightenings. Did you wrap the wires one full wrap around
the screw in a clockwise direction and pull gently on the loose end while
you tightened the screw? The latter acts like a "capstan" on a ship and
will tighten the wire as you tighten the screw. If you are using the
prescribed #10x1/2" sheet-metal (preferably the hex-washer-head sheet-metal
screws) in plywood you should be able to get them to grab sufficiently to
really tighten the wire, so there will be minimal slippage. I still need to
re-tension my wires occasionally, but they stay pretty tight.

Hope this helps.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sat 9 aug 08


Hi Vince,



Where can I see images of this device?


Phil
l v

Vince Pitelka on sat 9 aug 08


Phil in LV wrote:
"Hi Vince, Where can I see images of this device?

Phil -
I have a short blurb about my techniques at
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/gallery/techniques/techniques.htm, and it
includes a few images of the veneer slicer that should give you some idea of
how it works. The requirement is that it slice perfect veneers as thin as
1/32" from a loaf of patterned clay. It works very well.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

Hank Murrow on sat 9 aug 08


On Aug 9, 2008, at 7:34 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:

> Hank Murrow wrote:
> Yes Carole; Use Hank's WireTool with a single wire.
>
> Dear Hank -
> Your wire tool is a wonderful tool for fluting and all sorts of
> other tasks
> in altering thrown and handbuilt clay, and every potter should have
> one, but
> it is not at all appropriate for the task of slicing colored clay
> veneer
> from patterned loaves.

Having seen pics of your slicer now, I agree heartily.

Hank

Vince Pitelka on sat 9 aug 08


Lori Leary wrote:
"Try putting a washer underneath the hex screw and wrap the wire between
the washer and the screw. When you tighten the screw, be sure to hold
the end of the wire (I use needle nose pliers). Call me if that does
not make sense. I think you have my newer Atlanta number, if not, just
email me off list."

Lori -
You are a dear friend and I think the world of you, but of course that will
not stop me from asking you and the entire Clayart audience to stop
second-guessing my veneer slicer. I designed that slicer while in grad
school at U-Mass in the mid-1980s, and have been improving it ever since.
For the reasons explained in other email messages I have sent, a washer is a
bad idea because it creates a metal-to-metal contact that will break the
slicing wire almost immediately.

And thanks dear Lori for your kind comments about my book -
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

Vince Pitelka on sat 9 aug 08


Hank Murrow wrote:
Yes Carole; Use Hank's WireTool with a single wire.

Dear Hank -
Your wire tool is a wonderful tool for fluting and all sorts of other tasks
in altering thrown and handbuilt clay, and every potter should have one, but
it is not at all appropriate for the task of slicing colored clay veneer
from patterned loaves.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

Vince Pitelka on sat 9 aug 08


James Freeman wrote:
"The only weakness in Vince's elegant design is the method of attaching the
cutting wire to the base, likely a conscious concession for the sake of
simplicity. The wire is attached to the base board via sheet metal screws,
and relies on the very limited ability of the plywood to take and maintain
screw threads."

James -
Thanks for your kind compliment about my book, and your reference to my
design as "elegant." And you are right about winding the wire around the
screw in a clockwise direction (just one wrap) and allow the tightening
screw to help tighten the wire.

But I am afraid that your other recommendations are not at all appropriate
for this slicer. The design I have come up with is the result of many years
of experimentation using every possible means that I could come up with to
attach and adjust the wires. The sheet-metal screw might seem like a cheap,
improvised solution, but it is what works best in this case for some simple
reasons I will explain. I have been designing and building tools and
equipment for most of my 59 years, and I know just about every kind of
fastener and attachment device that is out there. In my book I may have
recommended (I am out in California at the tail end of my summer travels
with no copy of my book at hand) a #10x1/2" pan-head sheet metal screw, but
I have gone to a #10x1/2"hex-washer-head sheet metal screw because it is so
easy to loosen and tighten with a standard nut-driver (like a screwdriver,
but with a 5/16" socket on the end that fits the hex-head on the #10 screw).


Do not use a screw and washer, and do not use a machine screw with the
barbed threaded female component you refer to (I cannot remember offhand
what they are properly called). With the wood-screw and washer, the wire
will easily get trapped between the screw and the washer, or between the
washer and the wood-screw threads, both metal-to-metal contacts that will
quickly snap the wire on the second or third time it is adjusted. This will
happen even with a brass wood screw and washer. In the case of the machine
screw setup it is even worse, because the wire is between the screw head and
the other metal part, which snaps the wire almost immediately. If you use
two hard plastic washers under the machine screw to protect the wire, there
is still the chance of the wire getting up in the threads between the screw
and "nut," which will quickly cause it to break.

The hex-washer-head sheet metal screw has good threads, bites effectively
into the plywood, and the built-in "washer" flange holds the wire securely.
For the best slicer, use the high-quality birch plywood with many
laminations. 1/2" or 5/8" plywood is fine, and the 1/2" sheet-metal screw
is the right length to work effectively with those thicknesses. As long as
the screw is not over-tightened, it will last indefinitely.

I'd love to see someone come up with an even better solution, and I am sorry
to discredit your suggestions, James, but as I said, I have been at this a
very long time, and I have always had a knack for mechanical solutions using
almost any kind of hardware.
- Vince

Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

Karin Givon on sun 10 aug 08


Hank--where did you see pics of Vince's cutter? Online? Did I totally
miss it? I'd love to see photos of his, and of your cutter--is there
one to be seen?
Karin
On Aug 9, 2008, at 9:21 PM, Hank Murrow wrote:

On Aug 9, 2008, at 7:34 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:

> Hank Murrow wrote:
> Yes Carole; Use Hank's WireTool with a single wire.
>
> Dear Hank -
> Your wire tool is a wonderful tool for fluting and all sorts of
> other tasks
> in altering thrown and handbuilt clay, and every potter should have
> one, but
> it is not at all appropriate for the task of slicing colored clay
> veneer
> from patterned loaves.

Having seen pics of your slicer now, I agree heartily.

Hank

Vince Pitelka on sun 10 aug 08


I would like to apologize to James Freeman for at least partially
misinterpreting his suggestions regarding my colored clay veneer slicer. It
was my understanding that both of his suggestions involved a metal-to-metal
contact that would have resulted in quick failure of the thin, vulnerable
stainless steel cutting wire. It is essential that the wire be trapped
between a screw head and the wood, with no other metal parts that could
damage the wire. I had an experience where someone was making veneer
slicers for one of my colored clay workshops and took the liberty of
designing some improvements that would have rendered them non-functional,
and thus am perhaps a little sensitive about people suggesting changes to my
tried-and-true design. I received a very nice off-list message from James
further explaining his suggestions and his interest and involvement with
machinery and hardware, and while the first suggestion does involve a wood
screw and washer that would be problematic, in the second one, the "nut"
portion s mounted on the back side of the plywood, and the wire would be
trapped between the machine screw head and the wood, with the threads
recessed out of harm's way down in the hole through the plywood.



James told me about his early years, where he had the opportunity and
apparently the encouragement to collect and tinker with machines freely, and
he was very fortunate in that regard. It is obvious that he too has a broad
knowledge of machinery and tools. My dad was a scientist and college
professor, and cleanliness and order in our home were strictly enforced. I
was not allowed to collect things and bring them home, but I had a little
refuge in the crawl space on the way down to the basement where my dad
rarely ventured, and secreted things into my "inner sanctum" for my
tinkering and experiments. My mother would occasionally bring things home
for me from her lab at UC Berkeley without my dad's knowledge. She
understood me, and bought me art supplies while I still thought I was going
to be a scientist.



Because of my father's restrictive attitudes, as soon as I moved away from
home for college I over-compensated and began collecting tools, machinery,
hardware, equipment, etc., with a vengeance. Almost twenty years later,
When my wife, son, and I left Northern California to go to graduate school
in the mid-1980s we sold 90% of everything we owned, including quite a few
tons of antique machinery and equipment. I guess by my late 30s I had
finally gotten it out of my system, because I was glad to see it go. I kept
a few special items, including a 1915-vintage DeLaval Dairy Supply 2-HP
one-cylinder gas engine with low-tension make-and-break ignition, twin
flywheels, and brass drip-oilers. The unit weighs about 750 lbs., and is in
storage with a friend in California. I will tinker with it once again after
I retire. Isn't that fascinating?



I miss my DeLaval.

- Vince



Vince Pitelka

Appalachian Center for Craft

Tennessee Tech University

vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu

http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

Hank Murrow on sun 10 aug 08


Dearest Vince; (well, I only know one!)

I loved your response here and the lovely personal details that
infuse it. A very generous posting!

Thanks, Hank


On Aug 10, 2008, at 9:03 AM, Vince Pitelka wrote:

> I would like to apologize to James Freeman for at least partially
> misinterpreting his suggestions regarding my colored clay veneer
> slicer. It
> was my understanding that both of his suggestions involved a metal-
> to-metal
> contact that would have resulted in quick failure of the thin,
> vulnerable
> stainless steel cutting wire. It is essential that the wire be
> trapped
> between a screw head and the wood, with no other metal parts that
> could
> damage the wire. I had an experience where someone was making veneer
> slicers for one of my colored clay workshops and took the liberty of
> designing some improvements that would have rendered them non-
> functional,
> and thus am perhaps a little sensitive about people suggesting
> changes to my
> tried-and-true design. I received a very nice off-list message
> from James
> further explaining his suggestions and his interest and involvement
> with
> machinery and hardware, and while the first suggestion does involve
> a wood
> screw and washer that would be problematic, in the second one, the
> "nut"
> portion s mounted on the back side of the plywood, and the wire
> would be
> trapped between the machine screw head and the wood, with the threads
> recessed out of harm's way down in the hole through the plywood.
>
>
>
> James told me about his early years, where he had the opportunity and
> apparently the encouragement to collect and tinker with machines
> freely, and
> he was very fortunate in that regard. It is obvious that he too
> has a broad
> knowledge of machinery and tools. My dad was a scientist and college
> professor, and cleanliness and order in our home were strictly
> enforced. I
> was not allowed to collect things and bring them home, but I had a
> little
> refuge in the crawl space on the way down to the basement where my dad
> rarely ventured, and secreted things into my "inner sanctum" for my
> tinkering and experiments. My mother would occasionally bring
> things home
> for me from her lab at UC Berkeley without my dad's knowledge. She
> understood me, and bought me art supplies while I still thought I
> was going
> to be a scientist.
>
>
>
> Because of my father's restrictive attitudes, as soon as I moved
> away from
> home for college I over-compensated and began collecting tools,
> machinery,
> hardware, equipment, etc., with a vengeance. Almost twenty years
> later,
> When my wife, son, and I left Northern California to go to graduate
> school
> in the mid-1980s we sold 90% of everything we owned, including
> quite a few
> tons of antique machinery and equipment. I guess by my late 30s I had
> finally gotten it out of my system, because I was glad to see it
> go. I kept
> a few special items, including a 1915-vintage DeLaval Dairy Supply
> 2-HP
> one-cylinder gas engine with low-tension make-and-break ignition, twin
> flywheels, and brass drip-oilers. The unit weighs about 750 lbs.,
> and is in
> storage with a friend in California. I will tinker with it once
> again after
> I retire. Isn't that fascinating?
>
>
>
> I miss my DeLaval.
>
> - Vince
>
>
>
> Vince Pitelka
>
> Appalachian Center for Craft
>
> Tennessee Tech University
>
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
>
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka

Hank Murrow on sun 10 aug 08


On Aug 10, 2008, at 10:33 AM, Karin Givon wrote:

> Hank--where did you see pics of Vince's cutter? I'd love to see
> photos of his, and of your cutter--is there
> one to be seen?
> Karin

Dear karin;

Vince's slab cutter can be seen at http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
gallery/techniques/techniques.htm just scroll down to "My Approach".

Hank's WireTool may be seen at http://www.murrow.biz/hank/kiln-and-
tools.htm

& there is a tutorial here: http://www.murrow.biz/hank/
wiretool.htm that shows how I use it.

Cheers, Hank

www.murrow.biz/hank