L. P. Skeen on sat 9 aug 08
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread; I am forwarding =
your responses to my friend.
L
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Overall's=20
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=20
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: uneven firings with Axner conversion kit
She needs to install a baffle shelf
in every load is my first suggestion.
When loading, she needs to allow 1-1/2" to
2" air space by placing kiln shelves above her
highest shelf. To accomplish this I have marked
up a storyboard? (don't know the right word).
(Carpenters do this when framing)
I cut a strip of wood to the height of my kiln's
interior. I drew circles where the peeps are
located by inserting it into the kiln up against
the peeps and marked with a permanent marker.
I drew lines where the top of the first shelf is -
and marked where the top baffle shelf goes.
This tells me the maximum height of work
allowing for shelves' thickness, too.
You could even mark the woodstrip in inches for
ready reference.
Other things I do in my itty bitty updraft
I learned mostly from Dale Cochoy:
My first shelf is 4" from the kiln floor.
Shelves are 4" diameter smaller
than kiln's inside diameter.
This should make a space two inches
from kiln interior wall to kiln shelf edge.
Flames and heat have ample room to
move throughout the kiln.
I also baffle the flames to get more even
temps from top to bottom. If you have more
than two burners, try only two opposing ones
at first. Keep the kiln posts about 6" above
the flame/kiln base then experiment.
If she just does the top baffle shelf first,
she should see a big difference. Then
she might have to try other things to
tweak it changing it a little at a time.
It took me about twenty-four firings
on my kiln to 'get it' and then something
always seems to happen to try and figure
out what to do to either fix it or make
it work.
Best of luck and successful firings.
Kim in Houston
Overall's on sat 9 aug 08
She needs to install a baffle shelf
in every load is my first suggestion.
When loading, she needs to allow 1-1/2" to
2" air space by placing kiln shelves above her
highest shelf. To accomplish this I have marked
up a storyboard? (don't know the right word).
(Carpenters do this when framing)
I cut a strip of wood to the height of my kiln's
interior. I drew circles where the peeps are
located by inserting it into the kiln up against
the peeps and marked with a permanent marker.
I drew lines where the top of the first shelf is -
and marked where the top baffle shelf goes.
This tells me the maximum height of work
allowing for shelves' thickness, too.
You could even mark the woodstrip in inches for
ready reference.
Other things I do in my itty bitty updraft
I learned mostly from Dale Cochoy:
My first shelf is 4" from the kiln floor.
Shelves are 4" diameter smaller
than kiln's inside diameter.
This should make a space two inches
from kiln interior wall to kiln shelf edge.
Flames and heat have ample room to
move throughout the kiln.
I also baffle the flames to get more even
temps from top to bottom. If you have more
than two burners, try only two opposing ones
at first. Keep the kiln posts about 6" above
the flame/kiln base then experiment.
If she just does the top baffle shelf first,
she should see a big difference. Then
she might have to try other things to
tweak it changing it a little at a time.
It took me about twenty-four firings
on my kiln to 'get it' and then something
always seems to happen to try and figure
out what to do to either fix it or make
it work.
Best of luck and successful firings.
Kim in Houston
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