Lee Love on fri 29 aug 08
How about an adapter bat? One with holes to fit the existing pins
and then pins in that bat at standard spacing? I often use more than
one bat on my Shimpo, to raise the surface over the splashpan for
trimming larger platters.
--
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Suchman ceramics on fri 29 aug 08
Hi ,Drill it! to the now standard 10". You can always use David Hendley's
system as well. Try to keep as much as possible standard. You won't regret
standard size pins as an option. I even have my Giffen Grip clamped to
thick bat to fit my pins. Everything is as quick and easy as possible.
-Eric in Oceanside, California not too far from Fallbrook. email me offlist
if you wish.
-pagan by nature
Vince Pitelka on fri 29 aug 08
Gene and Latonna wrote:
"If you must drill, why not just get a brand new masonite bat with holes
already drilled. Center it, tape the bat down, recheck to make sure it is
still centered, center punch the holes, then drill the appropriate size
holes where they need to be. Make sure there are no support ribs where you
need to drill. Seems simple to me, or maybe I missed something."
Gene and Latonna -
No, you didn't miss anything. Using a nice fresh new bat as a pattern is
the best way to drill a wheelhead, and it works perfectly. But rather than
center punching, the best way to do this is to initially use a drill bit
that is exactly the size of the hole in the bat. Mount the bit in your
drill, and after you tape down the perfectly-centered new bat, use the hole
in the bat as a guide, and drill just a small dimple in the wheelhead with
the point of the drill in the center of each bat hole. Do this carefully,
making sure that the drill bit stays vertical. Once you have drilled a
small dimple, switch over to a 1/4" drill bit, and using the dimple as a
starting point, drill the actual hole to mount your bat pins. If I were at
school I could check and see what size on the bat hole, but you can do that.
If you do not have a full drill index, you might have to take a new bat to
the hardware store to get the right drill bit. It will be worth your while
even if you have to buy a new one.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Corinna Laird on fri 29 aug 08
Hi all,
I would appreciate your two-cents-worth:
I have an old kick wheel, recently acquired, which is my only wheel, and I
like throwing on it. The only problem is that the bat pin holes are 8 inches
apart which works with no bats that I know of.
Thinking I might replace the wheel head, I tried taking it off the axle, but
I couldn't get it to budge, and I don't want to break something trying
harder.
I suppose I can get custom drilled bats, but then I'm giving up on the
several nice bats I already own. Is it possible to drill good holes in
wooden or plastic bats with a hand-held drill? I don't own a drill press.
Or, I could try drilling the wheel head itself. Anyone have any advice on
doing this?
thanks,
Corinna
in breezy Fallbrook, CA where my Kapok tree is blossoming :)
Taylor Hendrix on fri 29 aug 08
Haloo Corinna.
Are you wedded to bat pins? I mean could you remove those bat pins and
use any other manner of sticking your bats to the wheel head?
I might risk drilling my wheel head with a hand drill, but that is
because I'm such a steady hand hee haw. What you will want to be sure
about though, and what the previous owner of my kick wheel failed to
do, is to take into account any ribs or other such structures on the
UNDERSIDE of your wheel head that might be in the way were you to
drill through that nice wheel head for new bat pins.
Drilling the bats would be an analogous deal. Which would be easier?
In the long run? For you?
If you have circles on your wheel head and they are accurate inch
marks, you are half way toward drilling accurate holes for your bats.
You will need to then exactly bisect the circle which is your wheel
head. Have fun because geometry is fun.
I for one prefer the Hendley Bat System (patent not pending)(( No
endorsement of David's taste in shirts is implied here, btw)) or the
good ol' clay-under-the-bat method. Both are sweeeeet.
Be good,
Taylor, in Rockport TX
On Fri, Aug 29, 2008 at 1:11 PM, Corinna Laird wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I would appreciate your two-cents-worth:
>
> I have an old kick wheel, recently acquired, which is my only wheel, and I
> like throwing on it. The only problem is that the bat pin holes are 8 inches
> apart which works with no bats that I know of.
...
David Hendley on fri 29 aug 08
Yes! My bat system is far superior to using bat pins:
large bats with 3 cleats around the perimeter of the wheelhead
for large pots, and 7" pats held on with a flat pad of clay for
small pots.
I am out the door - Look up "Bat pins stink" in the archives
for the reasons why.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david(at)farmpots(dot)com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
>
> If you have circles on your wheel head and they are accurate inch
> marks, you are half way toward drilling accurate holes for your bats.
> You will need to then exactly bisect the circle which is your wheel
> head. Have fun because geometry is fun.
>
> I for one prefer the Hendley Bat System (patent not pending)(( No
> endorsement of David's taste in shirts is implied here, btw)) or the
> good ol' clay-under-the-bat method. Both are sweeeeet.
>
> Be good,
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
James F on fri 29 aug 08
Corinna...
It would be much easier to drill one wheel head than to drill a whole pile =
of batts. The process is not difficult=2C and can be done (carefully) with=
a hand drill.
First=2C remove your existing batt pins. With your wheel rotating=2C locat=
e the exact center of your wheel head with a Sharpie or similar pointed mar=
ker. As with finding the center of your clay=2C the center of the wheel he=
ad will be the point where the Sharpie makes a dot rather than a tiny circl=
e. Once you have located and marked the exact center=2C lay a straight edg=
e on the wheel head with one edge just touching your center dot=2C and not =
too close to your existing batt pin holes. This process will automatically=
exactly bisect your wheel head.
Check the underside of your wheel head to ensure the straight edge is not o=
ver any stiffening ribs. If it is=2C rotate it to a new=2C clear position =
while maintaining contact with the center dot=2C Draw a bisecting line acr=
oss your wheel head along your straight edge. Measure the center to center=
distance between the pin holes on your new batts=2C usually 10". Measure =
half of this distance=2C probably 5"=2C from the center dot in both directi=
ons along the bisecting line you just drew=2C and mark these locations. In=
dent these two locations with a center punch. If you do not have a center =
punch=2C a hammer and nail will work in a pinch. A good crisp center punch=
indentation is critical to accurate drilling.
Locate a drill bit that just fits your existing batt pin holes. Using this=
bit=2C and using your center punch indentations as a guide=2C slowly and c=
arefully drill through your wheel head. The center punch indentation shoul=
d hold the tip of the drill bit in place. Use only moderate pressure or th=
e drill bit will wander. If the bit does not seem to want to stay in the c=
enter punch indentation=2C switch to a bit about half the diameter of the o=
ne you are using and drill pilot holes through the wheelhead=2C then switch=
back to the proper bit and=2C using the pilot holes as a guide=2C redrill =
them to the correct size. If your wheel head is aluminum=2C the process wi=
ll be almost effortless. If it is steel it will take a bit longer. In thi=
s case=2C a drop of oil in each center punch indentation will ease the job.
You can now switch your batt pins at will between the two sets of holes=2C =
thereby accomodating all of your batts. If your batt pins had wing nuts=2C=
you are in business. If they had hex nuts=2C consider swapping them for w=
ing nuts.
Be brave. You can do this!
All the best.
...James
> Date: Fri=2C 29 Aug 2008 11:11:55 -0700
> From: ceylaird@GMAIL.COM
> Subject: drill my wheel head?
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>=20
> Hi all=2C
>=20
> I would appreciate your two-cents-worth:
>=20
> I have an old kick wheel=2C recently acquired=2C which is my only wheel=
=2C and I
> like throwing on it. The only problem is that the bat pin holes are 8 inc=
hes
> apart which works with no bats that I know of.
>=20
> Thinking I might replace the wheel head=2C I tried taking it off the axle=
=2C but
> I couldn't get it to budge=2C and I don't want to break something trying
> harder.
>=20
> I suppose I can get custom drilled bats=2C but then I'm giving up on the
> several nice bats I already own. Is it possible to drill good holes in
> wooden or plastic bats with a hand-held drill? I don't own a drill press.
>=20
> Or=2C I could try drilling the wheel head itself. Anyone have any advice =
on
> doing this?
>=20
> thanks=2C
> Corinna
>=20
> in breezy Fallbrook=2C CA where my Kapok tree is blossoming :)
_________________________________________________________________
Talk to your Yahoo! Friends via Windows Live Messenger. Find out how.
http://www.windowslive.com/explore/messenger?ocid=3DTXT_TAGLM_WL_messenger_=
yahoo_082008=
Gene Arnold on fri 29 aug 08
If you must drill, why not just get a brand new masonite bat with holes
already drilled. Center it, tape the bat down, recheck to make sure it is
still centered, center punch the holes, then drill the appropriate size
holes where they need to be. Make sure there are no support ribs where you
need to drill. Seems simple to me, or maybe I missed something.
Or use a clay pad to stick your bats down.
Gene & Latonna
mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
www.mudduckpottery.net
David Berg on sat 30 aug 08
Corinna,
I used a hand drill to make the holes in the aluminum
head on my antique Denton Vars side treadle wheel to
fit standard bat pins several years ago and it worked
well. Before I had bat pins, I used a flattened out clay
pancake to hold bats in place. That worked OK but
installing bat pins are more secure & a lot more
convenient. So, I think you should try it.
Measure very carefully and be positive of your locations
before drilling. I used a combination of the advice written
by James F and Gene Arnold. I mostly relied on using a
new bat as a template to mark where the holes should
be. If that is what you do, then just be positive that the
bat template is perfectly centered before you draw the
circles where the holes will be. The pins have to be
placed fairly accurately to fit the bats properly and there
may only be 1 mm or less of "wiggle room".
After you have the hole locations marked, it is good advice
to use the center punch to make the little indentation in
the center of each location where the holes will be. That
will keep your drill from wandering around as the hole is
first started. Also, make sure the drill bit is as close to
perpendicular to the wheel head as possible. Some hand
drills have a little bubble level on them to help make that
possible.
Good luck with this project.
David
David Berg
dberg2@comcast.net
http://bergstoneware.com/
On Aug 29, 2008, at 2:11 PM, Corinna Laird wrote:
> Hi all,
> ....
> Or, I could try drilling the wheel head itself. Anyone have any
> advice on
> doing this?
>
> thanks,
> Corinna
Michael Wendt on sat 30 aug 08
I use a device called a transfer punch.
It is a special kind of center punch with an
outside diameter the size of the hole and
a small point accurately machined dead center.
If you use a drill to create the dimple as Vince
suggested, that will work but may slightly
enlarge the bat pin hole during the process
while a transfer punch does not.
Use a drill bit the size of the shank of the
socket head cap screw you plan to install
and be sure to drill vertically.
The rest of the advice from everyone holds,
but with a helper holding a 2-3 LB hammer
firmly pressed to the under side of the wheel
head, tap the transfer punch once firmly.
The role of the hammer under the head is
to eliminate the chance of bending the head
or damaging the shaft bearings.
Aside:
If you have access to a drill press...
I would make a drill guide out of a 1" x 3/8" x 12"
piece of steel flat bar. Accurately mark and drill
a hole the size of a sheet rock nail dead center.
drill another hole that size out near one corner
to act as a anti slip aid when drilling bats.
Measure carefully out from the center hole
5" each way. Scribe a fine line through the
center point using a straight edge through each
5" mark. use a prick punch and tap a dimple
at each 5" mark, then slightly enlarge the dimple
with a fine center punch to avoid bit wander.
Place in drill press and drill 2 holes the size of
the shank of the socket head cap screws head.
Be sure to buy a transfer punch the same size as this
hole to allow you to drill the wheel head.
Now you have a bat pin maker and all bats you
make with this hole guide always fit the wheel
head you drilled with it.
for more details visit later today
http://www.wendtpottery.com/clayart.htm
I will see if can post pictures that show
these items.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
| |
|
