David Martin Hershey on mon 1 sep 08
Hi Kathy,
In the "old" days, before carpenters changed to mostly steel and
fiberglass hammers, there was a fix for hammer heads that would get
loose because the wood handle had shrunk from the heat of a dry summer
outside job site.
We would take the hammer and put it in a tray or container filled with
linseed oil, and let it soak for a few days. The ash hammer handle would
soak up the oil, and expand enough to make the head tight again. Any
checks in the handle would usually close up too. Probably would work on
your paddle.
Just be careful with linseed oily rags laying around. This is a recipe
for spontaneous combustion. Just ask me how I know... ;^)
Congratulations on your show!
Best, DMH
David Martin Hershey
DMH Studio + Design
2629 Manhattan Ave #137
Hermosa Beach CA USA
90254-2447 310.379.6890
http://www.dmhstudio.com/
Kathy Forer wrote:
>Is oil the best way to treat an incipient split in a not-
always cherished but essential hardwood paddle or is there anything
else to do in addition?
Kathy Forer on mon 1 sep 08
On Sep 1, 2008, at 12:35 AM, Kelly Savino wrote:
> I even wash all my wooden and wood-handled tools, and soak them
> overnight in Weleda calendula baby oil, a favorite smell from baby
> days.
Which reminds me... I left a favorite paddle outside before it rained
and I was away and didn't recover it until it had dried and reopened
an old split or check. Something similar happened with my wood-turned
salad bowl. Neither is bad enough to use epoxy and clamp, which
wouldn't do with the salad bowl anyhow, warmed olive oil seems to help
the bowl. Is oil the best way to treat an incipient split in a not-
always cherished but essential hardwood paddle or is there anything
else to do in addition?
Thanks
Kathy Forer
Kathy Forer on tue 2 sep 08
On Sep 2, 2008, at 12:39 AM, David Martin Hershey wrote:
> We would take the hammer and put it in a tray or container filled with
> linseed oil, and let it soak for a few days. The ash hammer handle
> would
> soak up the oil, and expand enough to make the head tight again. Any
> checks in the handle would usually close up too. Probably would work
> on
> your paddle.
Thanks David, that's sounds just right.
I'm not sure if I should round out the albeit short thread with a
public acknowledgement, thank you, or just leave it dangling and write
you privately. Different lists seem to have different etiquette. Is
Thank you the same as "me too!" or does it add anything?
Kathy Forer
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 2 sep 08
Hi Kathy, all...
Generally speaking, 'Water' is the enemy of any Wooden item, unless the item
is
meant to be continuously immersed, and then allowed to be continually
immersed without periods of drying...and even then, if not made right and of
the right Wood kinds,
things may not go well.
Being wet or saturated, expands the cell structure approximately to that
once enjoyed by the Living Tree...expands the Wood itself
or any item made of Wood...and, the expansion is differential, according to
the lay of the Grown Rings...so it expands more on one direction, than the
roughly perpendicular of that direction.
And if then,
desiccating, if drying, it then shrinks of course, differentially, and if
wetting and drying occur over
and over, this inevitably causes stresses and deteriorations to occur,
which,
depending on the shape and section of the item, and it's grain orientations,
this can or will occasion fissures or cracks to begin opening up and
enlarging.
Probably, any Wooden Tool which is going to be subjected to periods of
Water
saturation or even moderate wetness, to then dry or desiccate...should be
well Oiled with Natural Oils which will Oxidize in the Wood's pores, and
over successive
applications, will ultimately occupy and
fill the otherwise Sponge-like pores as much as possible.
One way to do this, would be to heat a 'cocktail' of whatever Drying Oils,
in
a Double Boiler of some kind ( empty Tin Can in a Pan of Water ) with no
'open' Flame...
And, to immerse the Tool for five or ten minutes or more, in the hot
solution, and then
let it dry...rubbing off briskly any remaining excess on the surface after
it
has dried for an hour or so.
..and, to repeat this every few months or so.
Linseed Oil, or Tung Oil, some Turpentine, and Japan Drier, make a very nice
'cocktail' for this.
Larger items can be saturated with a 'hot' solution using a Brush...
Polyethyleneglycol will also work very well for preserving Wood against
desiccations or subsequent hydrations, if it is a little less romantic than
Linseed and Turpentine.
Phil
l v
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathy Forer"
> On Sep 1, 2008, at 12:35 AM, Kelly Savino wrote:
>
>> I even wash all my wooden and wood-handled tools, and soak them
>> overnight in Weleda calendula baby oil, a favorite smell from baby
>> days.
>
> Which reminds me... I left a favorite paddle outside before it rained
> and I was away and didn't recover it until it had dried and reopened
> an old split or check. Something similar happened with my wood-turned
> salad bowl. Neither is bad enough to use epoxy and clamp, which
> wouldn't do with the salad bowl anyhow, warmed olive oil seems to help
> the bowl. Is oil the best way to treat an incipient split in a not-
> always cherished but essential hardwood paddle or is there anything
> else to do in addition?
>
> Thanks
> Kathy Forer
>
Kathy Forer on fri 5 sep 08
Great explanation Phil -- Time for cocktails! Thanks, Kathy
On Sep 2, 2008, at 4:19 PM, pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
> Probably, any Wooden Tool which is going to be subjected to periods
> of Water
> saturation or even moderate wetness, to then dry or
> desiccate...should be
> well Oiled with Natural Oils which will Oxidize in the Wood's
> pores, and
> over successive
> applications, will ultimately occupy and
> fill the otherwise Sponge-like pores as much as possible.
>
>
>
> One way to do this, would be to heat a 'cocktail' of whatever
> Drying Oils, in
> a Double Boiler of some kind ( empty Tin Can in a Pan of Water )
> with no
> 'open' Flame...
>
>
> And, to immerse the Tool for five or ten minutes or more, in the hot
> solution, and then
> let it dry...rubbing off briskly any remaining excess on the
> surface after it
> has dried for an hour or so.
>
> ..and, to repeat this every few months or so.
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