Randy Golly on mon 1 dec 97
------------------
I plan on building a gas kiln after the holidays and am considering =
different
enclosures. I plan on building onto the backside of my studio. Haven't
narrowed the actual design of the kiln yet either but would like the shed to=
be
able to accommodate either forced air or natural draft. I will also be =
doing
raku in the same area with a small fiber/expanded metal kiln so smoke is a
factor.
I would like to have a simple metal roof over wood rafters, not sure how =
much
side protection is needed from wind and rain. How high above the kiln top =
is
recommended? I'm in the Dallas area so winters are pretty mild here. I =
heard a
story once from another potter that built a wonderful fully enclosed shed =
he
built when he first setup his studio. It burnt to the ground several years
later from being so dried out from all the firings that it just =22burst=22 =
into
flames from the kiln heat. Dont' really want to repeat anything like that. =
Any
ideas or recommendations?
Randy Golly
Grapevine, Texas
Talbott on tue 2 dec 97
We have a wood framed kiln shed with a metal roof that houses a 45 cubic
foot gas fired car kiln. Sheds don't just burst into flame without some
wood member getting way too hot (around 45O Fahrenheit). I framed out the
roof's peak so that the rafters and ridge pole clears the galvanized metal
chimney by about 10" or so. Considering the ceiling joists that are
adjacent to the chimney (also about 10" of space between the chimney and
the joists), I placed a layer of sheet rock with a spacer between the
ceiling joists and the sheet rock, this provides additional protection
against the chimney's heat. Design the kiln shed so there is adequate
space between the kiln and the wood members of the shed, typically 36" or
more. E-mail me directly if you need more details...
.....Marshall
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I plan on building a gas kiln after the holidays and am considering different
>enclosures. I plan on building onto the backside of my studio. Haven't
>narrowed the actual design of the kiln yet either but would like the shed to be
>able to accommodate either forced air or natural draft. I will also be doing
>raku in the same area with a small fiber/expanded metal kiln so smoke is a
>factor.
>I would like to have a simple metal roof over wood rafters, not sure how much
>side protection is needed from wind and rain. How high above the kiln top is
>recommended? I'm in the Dallas area so winters are pretty mild here. I heard a
>story once from another potter that built a wonderful fully enclosed shed he
>built when he first setup his studio. It burnt to the ground several years
>later from being so dried out from all the firings that it just "burst" into
>flames from the kiln heat. Dont' really want to repeat anything like
>that. Any
>ideas or recommendations?
>
>Randy Golly
>Grapevine, Texas
101 CLAYART MUGS
2ND ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1998)
E-MAIL ME FOR AN APPLICATION
http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
Clayarters' Live Chat Room, Fri & Sat Nites at 10 PM EDT & Sun at 1 PM EDT
http://webchat12.wbs.net/webchat3.so?Room=PRIVATE_Clayarters
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Carlton on tue 2 dec 97
the kiln really needs to be enclosed as the burners tend to blow out in not
a very strong breeze. A properly insulated brick kiln doesn't give off a
lot of heat except the walls of the flue. Give yourself plenty of room
above and to walk around it. MaKE SURE WHERE THE FLUE GOES THROUGH THE ROOF
IT IS BUILT TO PROPER SPECIFICATIONS this is usually where problems can
occur. A fibre kiln on the other can emit huge ammounts of heat during a
firing and can cause serious burns if touched..
build it well
cheers
At 02:27 01/12/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>I plan on building a gas kiln after the holidays and am considering different
>enclosures. I plan on building onto the backside of my studio. Haven't
>narrowed the actual design of the kiln yet either but would like the shed
to be
>able to accommodate either forced air or natural draft. I will also be doing
>raku in the same area with a small fiber/expanded metal kiln so smoke is a
>factor.
>I would like to have a simple metal roof over wood rafters, not sure how much
>side protection is needed from wind and rain. How high above the kiln top is
>recommended? I'm in the Dallas area so winters are pretty mild here. I
heard a
>story once from another potter that built a wonderful fully enclosed shed he
>built when he first setup his studio. It burnt to the ground several years
>later from being so dried out from all the firings that it just "burst" into
>flames from the kiln heat. Dont' really want to repeat anything like
that. Any
>ideas or recommendations?
>
>Randy Golly
>Grapevine, Texas
>
>
raycarlt@valylink.net.au
Ray Carlton
McMahons Creek Victoria Australia 3799
kinoko@junction.net on tue 2 dec 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>I plan on building a gas kiln after the holidays and am considering different
>enclosures. I plan on building onto the backside of my studio. Haven't
>narrowed the actual design of the kiln yet either but would like the shed to be
>able to accommodate either forced air or natural draft. I will also be doing
>raku in the same area with a small fiber/expanded metal kiln so smoke is a
>factor.
>I would like to have a simple metal roof over wood rafters, not sure how much
>side protection is needed from wind and rain. How high above the kiln top is
>recommended? I'm in the Dallas area so winters are pretty mild here. I heard a
>story once from another potter that built a wonderful fully enclosed shed he
>built when he first setup his studio. It burnt to the ground several years
>later from being so dried out from all the firings that it just "burst" into
>flames from the kiln heat. Dont' really want to repeat anything like that.
Any
>ideas or recommendations?
>
>Randy Golly
>Grapevine, Texas
>Randy, Without knowledge of the kiln dimensions and the wall and roof
thickness,it would be difficult to assist you...however, our last kiln,which
was quite large,allowed four-and-one-half-feet to the bottom of the rafters
which meant that the peak was nearly nine-feet above the kiln. The side
walls were eight-feet from the kiln center-line and the roof overhang,app.
18". For the sake of safety,it is usually better to overdesign.(Electric
kiln installation usually requires a minimum of 18" all around the kiln,but
few people will have less than 24". ) for exterior walls,we always tend to
install heavy hinges on each wall section to allow air circulation by
oppening-out the walls in hot weather,as well as to allow for the
possibility of fire and/or explosive gasses. One reason there were so many
kiln fires in the old days was simply that the roof and walls were built far
too close to the kiln in the interests of conserving heat which was often
used to temper the frigidity of the work rooms.
good luck, Kinoko
*****************************************
*****************************************
** Don and Isao Morrill **
** Falkland, B.C. **
** kinoko@junction.net **
*****************************************
*****************************************
Michelle McCurdy on tue 2 dec 97
You could try building the frame out of angle iron. I personally think
wood structures over kilns are not very safe unless you build them way high.
Have Fun!! My shed is built from angle iron and works fine.
Michelle in Colorado
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Lesley Alexander on tue 2 dec 97
Hi Randy, It happens I'm just building a metal cover (6'x 7') for my
outdoor kiln (Santa Barbara). I'm using inexpensive metal studs from a
building supply company which are ordinarily used in drywall installations.
The roof is corregated metal; the center flat piece is a stronger sheet
metal with a short stack in it, and is being made to my specifications by a
welding shop. This may work for you but it has to be cross-braced and
unfortunately they don't make corner fittings. Good luck. Lesley
jjcat on tue 2 dec 97
Unless its going to be block or brick you don't want to close the kiln in.
Metal roof, closed in on three sides with 6' stockade fence is fine, 8 feet
clearence around. Let it breath. Roof could be 4' from top of kiln. Simple
and open. Roof and walls do not have to join. Roof should over hang walls
to keep rain out.
jjcat@kilnray
At 02:27 PM 12/1/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>I plan on building a gas kiln after the holidays and am considering different
>enclosures. I plan on building onto the backside of my studio. Haven't
>narrowed the actual design of the kiln yet either but would like the shed to be
>able to accommodate either forced air or natural draft. I will also be doing
>raku in the same area with a small fiber/expanded metal kiln so smoke is a
>factor.
>I would like to have a simple metal roof over wood rafters, not sure how much
>side protection is needed from wind and rain. How high above the kiln top is
>recommended? I'm in the Dallas area so winters are pretty mild here. I heard a
>story once from another potter that built a wonderful fully enclosed shed he
>built when he first setup his studio. It burnt to the ground several years
>later from being so dried out from all the firings that it just "burst" into
>flames from the kiln heat. Dont' really want to repeat anything like that.
Any
>ideas or recommendations?
>
>Randy Golly
>Grapevine, Texas
>
>
Carolynn Palmer on wed 3 dec 97
In 1978 I built a Nils Lou flat-top style gas kiln in my side yard and
enclosed it in a very cheap all metal shed which I purchased at the local
lumber yard. It came as a kit and was composed of all thin sheet metal,
including the roof, and was put together with metal screws.
Anyway, I sold that kiln, and the people who bought it, moved it, shed and
all into their backyard - and it is still firing away inside that metal shed.
So, you might scout your local lumber-yard, garden type place for that kind
of all metal shed. If I had it to do again, I would have beefed up the
structure with some angle iron.
Carolynn Palmer, Somerset Center, Michigan
Arturo M DeVitalis on wed 3 dec 97
A pole barn frame covered with metal ..with of course a proper slab to
support the kiln..not expensive or difficult to build..the slab can be
much smaller than the perimeter of the shed if you desire.
David Hendley on wed 3 dec 97
Randy,
%&*#NO,
don't use wood rafters. Wood burns.
Metal rafters don't burn and don't cost much more.
In Texas you don't want an enclosure, just a roof.
Things will get a little wet in a windy rain storm,
but it's better than sweltering in August.
A 4 foot high wall, just to block the wind from
interfering with the burners, would be OK, and
would still allow heat and smoke to escape.
May I say it again?
Use metal, not wood.
David Hendley,
who knows about sweltering Augusts and
charred rafters in Texas.
At 02:27 PM 12/1/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>------------------
>I plan on building a gas kiln after the holidays and am considering different
>enclosures. I plan on building onto the backside of my studio. Haven't
>narrowed the actual design of the kiln yet either but would like the shed
to be
>able to accommodate either forced air or natural draft. I will also be doing
>raku in the same area with a small fiber/expanded metal kiln so smoke is a
>factor.
>I would like to have a simple metal roof over wood rafters, not sure how much
>side protection is needed from wind and rain. How high above the kiln top is
>recommended? I'm in the Dallas area so winters are pretty mild here. I
heard a
>story once from another potter that built a wonderful fully enclosed shed he
>built when he first setup his studio. It burnt to the ground several years
>later from being so dried out from all the firings that it just "burst" into
>flames from the kiln heat. Dont' really want to repeat anything like
that. Any
>ideas or recommendations?
>
>Randy Golly
>Grapevine, Texas
>
>
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
John Johnson on wed 3 dec 97
another design that i'm considering uses matal studs which are really more
economical than wood studs. There is also a portland based product available
in 4 x 8 sheets thats about 1/4" thick that is fire proof that can be used as
wall material. The roof can also be framed with metal studs and covered with
an attractive pre-painted metal roofing , again fireproof.
hope this helps....contact me directly if you need any additional info
John Johnson in WV
Jjohn98942@aol.com
Evan Dresel on wed 3 dec 97
I have two ideas from opposite ends of the macho to rinky-dink spectrum. My
neighbor is putting up a huge shop that is steel girder construction. The
price of the kit was about the same as the price of the materials for a
stick built structure or at least not a lot more. Don't know the company
but there are a number around that make these things and the will do lots of
different sizes. Now there may be an economics of scale thing -- wood frame
or pole construction may be a lot less for something smaller. The really
nice thing is that there is no waste space with joists and beams or whatever
across the top.
On the small scale end -- if your kiln isn't very large we have a 12 ft x 12
ft hay shed that is constructed out of welded pipe like the portable panel
corrals that ranchers use. The panels clamp together: two sides with a 1 in
12 pitch, I think, a back, a front brace up high, and three sections across
the top. The steel roof is secured to the top panels with self tapping
screws. No foundation, no permanence, no permits. So far it hasn't blown
away (it really is quite beefy when set up). You could put metal on the
sides if you wanted.
Got this from a panel-fence company near Spokane Washington. Shipping could
be add a bit to the expense. It was only about $250 - $300 for the frame parts.
Just some thoughts -- haven't made a kiln shed but if I ever make a
minni-flat top...
Evan in E. Washington fighting a cold. (sniff)
Carole Honeycutt on fri 5 dec 97
How are you attaching the metal supports to the metal roof.?
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