Mary Starosta on sat 25 oct 08
I have a question about Brush strokes over or under glazes. Vince I have
your book, Clay a studio handbook suggested by Lilli and others, great
book. I am not clear on the additions of oxides tho? I found this article
as well on potter basics
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UBgDSeJP0-TFlt3HHuhi5rN5VTnIhxqPvU4emjnAK-rg08ch21x2aKKYch_q-nbfT7thkZLNf5X-W1Nr5ZOCOu7qak6M7Ju-/Colorant%20suggestions.rtf
And I am trying for a purple brush stroke. Looks like Manganese Carb is
what I should use in my oxide brush work. Do I just add that to a clear
base glaze or just with water for my brush work? I want to begin
experimenting but I need alittle direction on how to get started? Keith
Gordon had some great ideas about folks doing that but I haven't been unable
to get in contact with Steve or Matt Kemp, Cape Cod area.
So when I use an oxide do I just combine it with water or does it need to be
in a clear base glaze? Also, can I have success experimenting with it over
glazes or would a clear glaze over brush work be best. Vince fires at
reduction with his railroad stoneware. I haven't been able to see much on
Cone^6 brush work?
Mary Starosta
Colorado Potter
http://marystarosta.wordpress.com/
Mary Starosta on sat 25 oct 08
Thanks Eva, You rock! Ok so water and the oxide works. I'll try it first
on my cream glaze hoping to get a bit of purple ( I happen to like it :) and
do you think it will be more stunning on texture? That is my goal. Hummm
Northern Lights, I've only seen them once, but I guess once is enough
because I have a vivid memory of the colors there in the sky! It was In
Quebec, with the loons, and a canoe trip in a provincial park, truly
amazing!
Oh and those nasty no see ums! I swear they have HUGE TEETH.
Mary Starosta
Colorado Potter
http://marystarosta.wordpress.com/
On Sat, Oct 25, 2008 at 11:06 AM, Eva Gallagher wrote:
> Hi Mary - I used to do a lot of oxidebrush work on top of a glaze called
> Stoney White that I overfired a bit to get it more fluid. I used just the
> pure oxides in water and sometimes added some glycerine for better
> suspension and brushing. For oxidation cone 8 I used Co, Cu, Fe, Ni, and
> Rutile . I used to call the design Northern Lights - banding and zigzag
> design that ran. The Co and Cu ran, but dots of Ni and Ru were refractory
> so
> held up in the glaze and gave a really nice pattern. However I never tried
> manganese as I do not like purple. Now that I am using a gas kiln I find
> that I am having trouble getting a similar effect. The results really
> depend
> of course on the glaze - the type, and thickness of both the oxides as well
> as the glaze. I found that the oxide should not be put on so that it is
> totally opaque - sort of a semi-transparent layer for a good colour
> response.
> Hope this helps at bit.
> Eva Gallagher
> Deep River, Ontario
> http://stevenhilljourneyworkshopjuly2008.blogspot.com/
>
> Original Message -----
> From: "Mary Starosta"
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 9:24 AM
> Subject: Brush Strokes
>
>
>
> I have a question about Brush strokes over or under glazes. Vince I have
>> your book, Clay a studio handbook suggested by Lilli and others, great
>> book. I am not clear on the additions of oxides tho? I found this
>> article
>> as well on potter basics
>>
>> http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UBgDSeJP0-TFlt3HHuhi5rN5VTnIhxqPvU4emjnAK-rg08ch21x2aKKYch_q-nbfT7thkZLNf5X-W1Nr5ZOCOu7qak6M7Ju-/Colorant%20suggestions.rtf
>> And I am trying for a purple brush stroke. Looks like Manganese Carb is
>> what I should use in my oxide brush work. Do I just add that to a clear
>> base glaze or just with water for my brush work? I want to begin
>> experimenting but I need alittle direction on how to get started? Keith
>> Gordon had some great ideas about folks doing that but I haven't been
>> unable
>> to get in contact with Steve or Matt Kemp, Cape Cod area.
>> So when I use an oxide do I just combine it with water or does it need to
>> be
>> in a clear base glaze? Also, can I have success experimenting with it
>> over
>> glazes or would a clear glaze over brush work be best. Vince fires at
>> reduction with his railroad stoneware. I haven't been able to see much on
>> Cone^6 brush work?
>>
>> Mary Starosta
>> Colorado Potter
>> http://marystarosta.wordpress.com/
>>
>>
>>
--
Mary Starosta
www.StarostaTeam.com
ReMax Alliance
mary@starostateam.com
720-271-7523
Vince Pitelka on sat 25 oct 08
Mary -
Thanks for your kind words about my book. With oxides, you can only get the
limited colors they give. There is no purple. If you want purple, you
really need to brush a purple glaze overglaze, try doing underglaze or
overglaze brushwork with purple Mason stain, or else work with purple
underglaze under a clear glaze. Manganese carbonate will give you a very
light amber tint when mixed with a clear glaze. You need to just experiment
with the colors that oxides and stains will give, and find out from
experience, rather than deciding on the color you want ahead of time.
Ceramics is like that. You will get different results painting oxide/water
mixtures underglaze or overglaze, stain/water mixtures underglaze or
overglaze, and oxides or stains mixed with glaze painted underglaze or
overglaze. There are no easy answers here. You need to do a LOT of
experimentation.
You will have a lot of fun with this experimentation. I wish you good luck
-
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Eva Gallagher on sat 25 oct 08
Hi Mary - I used to do a lot of oxidebrush work on top of a glaze called
Stoney White that I overfired a bit to get it more fluid. I used just the
pure oxides in water and sometimes added some glycerine for better
suspension and brushing. For oxidation cone 8 I used Co, Cu, Fe, Ni, and
Rutile . I used to call the design Northern Lights - banding and zigzag
design that ran. The Co and Cu ran, but dots of Ni and Ru were refractory so
held up in the glaze and gave a really nice pattern. However I never tried
manganese as I do not like purple. Now that I am using a gas kiln I find
that I am having trouble getting a similar effect. The results really depend
of course on the glaze - the type, and thickness of both the oxides as well
as the glaze. I found that the oxide should not be put on so that it is
totally opaque - sort of a semi-transparent layer for a good colour
response.
Hope this helps at bit.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River, Ontario
http://stevenhilljourneyworkshopjuly2008.blogspot.com/
Original Message -----
From: "Mary Starosta"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 9:24 AM
Subject: Brush Strokes
>I have a question about Brush strokes over or under glazes. Vince I have
> your book, Clay a studio handbook suggested by Lilli and others, great
> book. I am not clear on the additions of oxides tho? I found this
> article
> as well on potter basics
> http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UBgDSeJP0-TFlt3HHuhi5rN5VTnIhxqPvU4emjnAK-rg08ch21x2aKKYch_q-nbfT7thkZLNf5X-W1Nr5ZOCOu7qak6M7Ju-/Colorant%20suggestions.rtf
> And I am trying for a purple brush stroke. Looks like Manganese Carb is
> what I should use in my oxide brush work. Do I just add that to a clear
> base glaze or just with water for my brush work? I want to begin
> experimenting but I need alittle direction on how to get started? Keith
> Gordon had some great ideas about folks doing that but I haven't been
> unable
> to get in contact with Steve or Matt Kemp, Cape Cod area.
> So when I use an oxide do I just combine it with water or does it need to
> be
> in a clear base glaze? Also, can I have success experimenting with it
> over
> glazes or would a clear glaze over brush work be best. Vince fires at
> reduction with his railroad stoneware. I haven't been able to see much on
> Cone^6 brush work?
>
> Mary Starosta
> Colorado Potter
> http://marystarosta.wordpress.com/
>
>
June on sun 26 oct 08
Mary, that links doesn't work.
I once had a commission for an off white tea set with lavendar accents, and the best color after testings stains, etc, was using a wash of cobalt carb and tin, over a high magnesia, white glaze.
Most cone 6 glazes don't contain a lot of magnesia, but you might try the highest mgo c6 glaze recipe you can find and test it over that.
Regards,
June
http://www.shambhalapottery.com
http://shambhalapottery.blogspot.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sodasaltfiring/
----- Original Message ----
From: Mary Starosta
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 9:24:12 AM
Subject: Brush Strokes
I have a question about Brush strokes over or under glazes. Vince I have
your book, Clay a studio handbook suggested by Lilli and others, great
book. I am not clear on the additions of oxides tho? I found this article
as well on potter basics
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/UBgDSeJP0-TFlt3HHuhi5rN5VTnIhxqPvU4emjnAK-rg08ch21x2aKKYch_q-nbfT7thkZLNf5X-W1Nr5ZOCOu7qak6M7Ju-/Colorant%20suggestions.rtf
And I am trying for a purple brush stroke. Looks like Manganese Carb is
what I should use in my oxide brush work. Do I just add that to a clear
base glaze or just with water for my brush work? I want to begin
experimenting but I need alittle direction on how to get started? Keith
Gordon had some great ideas about folks doing that but I haven't been unable
to get in contact with Steve or Matt Kemp, Cape Cod area.
So when I use an oxide do I just combine it with water or does it need to be
in a clear base glaze? Also, can I have success experimenting with it over
glazes or would a clear glaze over brush work be best. Vince fires at
reduction with his railroad stoneware. I haven't been able to see much on
Cone^6 brush work?
Mary Starosta
Colorado Potter
http://marystarosta.wordpress.com/
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