Veena Raghavan on tue 4 nov 08
I have also been using a wooden board for wedging for the past eight years or
so, and it works very well, is easy to clean, does not dry out the clay, as
Mike says, and as he also says, the clay does not stick. I use lots of
different clays, use one side for porcelain, and the other for stoneware. It's great.
Veena
In a message dated 11/4/2008 9:51:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mike@KARATSUPOTS.COM writes:
>
> Hello Mary,
> Good old fashioned wood works great. My studio has a wedging table
> (24''x 40") made from two pieces of 8" thick pine, joined to make the
> work surface. Doesn't dry out the clay as quickly as plaster, and clay
> doesn't stick to it, even if it's pretty soft.
>
> Mike
VeenaRaghavan@cs.com
Mary Adams on tue 4 nov 08
I am creating a pottery studio (my second go-round as we recently moved) =
and I'm wondering if you have an opinion on the best surface upon which =
to wedge. I found that the table I built and poured plaster was great =
for recycling but dried my clay on quickly on wedging. I went to a =
building supply place and found a piece of granite and am about to build =
a base for that. I'm not sure what to adhere it with (epoxy?) If I do =
go with the granited, I would still wnat to pour a slab of plaster to =
recycle clay. But, have any of you used granite to wedge? How does =
that work for you? Is there a particular height at which you should =
place the work surface of the wedging table to be ergonomic?=20
Any suggestions on pug mill for a small shop?
Thanks for good info.
Mary
DRB Seattle on tue 4 nov 08
Mary
=A0
"used granite to wedge"
Nope- I believe Cardew had slate slabs. I think I'd go with concrete.=A0 If=
=A0your slab has a polished front and rough back I'd use the rough side.=A0
=A0
"Is there a particular height for the work surface to be ergonomic? "
The texts say low so your weight bears down on the clay. I've had neck prob=
lems so I'm trying out having my work surfaces at belt to navel high. The v=
isual Image I got from my MD was to imagine my head as a cannon ball=A0with=
a stick for a neck=A0(for me it's a ball of clay the size of my head on a =
stick) his rhetorical question that followed was "Do you want to spend your=
work day carrying that weight with the stick straight up or with the stick=
bent over at 45 degrees?"
=A0
That description was graphic enough for me.=A0=A0With a high work surface I=
'm finding I can still use my body weight through the momentum of moving fr=
om my back foot to my front.=A0 I also put a scrap of board under my front =
foot,=A0by lifting the toe's this keeps me from leaning over the clay.
=A0
DRB
Seattle
=0A=0A=0A
William Perrine on tue 4 nov 08
Epoxy would work well for adhering the granite. As far as for wedging, the clay can't be too wet or it will stick to it as you probably know.? The best height for the surface is about inseam height. That gives you a slight "spread your feet apart for more power" height for bigger clay balls. Also a slight downhill away from you is easier on the joints.?I tried standing next to different height tables stc. and imagined wedging on it to find the best height for me. I just built a new studio too.? Good Luck.?? Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Mary Adams
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 10:11 am
Subject: Building a workshop--questions
I am creating a pottery studio (my second go-round as we recently moved) and I'm
wondering if you have an opinion on the best surface upon which to wedge. I
found that the table I built and poured plaster was great for recycling but
dried my clay on quickly on wedging. I went to a building supply place and
found a piece of granite and am about to build a base for that. I'm not sure
what to adhere it with (epoxy?) If I do go with the granited, I would still
wnat to pour a slab of plaster to recycle clay. But, have any of you used
granite to wedge? How does that work for you? Is there a particular height at
which you should place the work surface of the wedging table to be ergonomic?
Any suggestions on pug mill for a small shop?
Thanks for good info.
Mary
The Fuzzy Chef on tue 4 nov 08
Mary Adams wrote:
> I am creating a pottery studio (my second go-round as we recently moved) and I'm wondering if you have an opinion on the best surface upon which to wedge. I found that the table I built and poured plaster was great for recycling but dried my clay on quickly on wedging. I went to a building supply place and found a piece of granite and am about to build a base for that. I'm not sure what to adhere it with (epoxy?) If I do go with the granited, I would still wnat to pour a slab of plaster to recycle clay. But, have any of you used granite to wedge? How does that work for you? Is there a particular height at which you should place the work surface of the wedging table to be ergonomic?
Personally, I'm a big fan of heavy (awning-grade) canvas, over wood or
concrete. One particularly useful feature of canvas is that if you
switch regularly between red and white clays, you can make a system
where the canvas is removable, by attaching it with grommets, screws and
washers.
--Josh
Lee Love on wed 5 nov 08
In Mashiko, we wedged on our throwing platforms which are much lower
than our wedging tables here. The low table requires less muscling.
If we used an iron clay, we would sometimes put a different board
down. If you put a length of wood on the edge of one side of the
board, it acts as a stop to keep the board sliding away from you,
which might happen if your table is slippery.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://togeika.multiply.com/journal
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Myth is cultural DNA, the software, the unconscious information, the
program that governs the way we see 'reality.'" --Sam Keen
Mike on wed 5 nov 08
Hello Mary,
Good old fashioned wood works great. My studio has a wedging table
(24''x 40") made from two pieces of 8" thick pine, joined to make the
work surface. Doesn't dry out the clay as quickly as plaster, and clay
doesn't stick to it, even if it's pretty soft.
Mike
in Taku, Japan
www.karatsupots.com
karatsupots.etsy.com
karatsupots.blogspot.com
blogs.yahoo.co.jp/karatsupots
Mary Adams ????????:
> I am creating a pottery studio (my second go-round as we recently moved) and I'm wondering if you have an opinion on the best surface upon which to wedge. I found that the table I built and poured plaster was great for recycling but dried my clay on quickly on wedging. I went to a building supply place and found a piece of granite and am about to build a base for that. I'm not sure what to adhere it with (epoxy?) If I do go with the granited, I would still wnat to pour a slab of plaster to recycle clay. But, have any of you used granite to wedge? How does that work for you? Is there a particular height at which you should place the work surface of the wedging table to be ergonomic?
>
> Any suggestions on pug mill for a small shop?
>
> Thanks for good info.
>
> Mary
>
>
Ron Roy on wed 12 nov 08
Hi Mary,
I recommend wood - it is slightly absorbent if not painted or oiled - but
the best part is - you can keep it dust free - which is hard to do with
canvas.
I know canvas is wonderful to work on but - all I can think of are the
clouds of silica that rise up whenever you work on it.
RR
>Mary Adams wrote:
>> I am creating a pottery studio (my second go-round as we recently moved)
>>and I'm wondering if you have an opinion on the best surface upon which
>>to wedge. I found that the table I built and poured plaster was great
>>for recycling but dried my clay on quickly on wedging. I went to a
>>building supply place and found a piece of granite and am about to build
>>a base for that. I'm not sure what to adhere it with (epoxy?) If I do
>>go with the granited, I would still wnat to pour a slab of plaster to
>>recycle clay. But, have any of you used granite to wedge? How does that
>>work for you? Is there a particular height at which you should place the
>>work surface of the wedging table to be ergonomic?
>
>Personally, I'm a big fan of heavy (awning-grade) canvas, over wood or
>concrete. One particularly useful feature of canvas is that if you
>switch regularly between red and white clays, you can make a system
>where the canvas is removable, by attaching it with grommets, screws and
>washers.
>
>--Josh
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
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