Overall's on sun 19 oct 08
Regarding the shino liner for salt kilns, what is the opinion that the line=
r hard bricks be dipped completely in shino before setting them in place?=
=A0 Also, is a drier shino like Woodfire better than an satin glossy shino =
like the others in that high heat atmosphere?
My salt kiln plans are even more nebulous than Tay Tay's until Mel's book c=
omes out.=A0 I hope the Mayer still has me on the list.
Kim Overall=20
http://www.kimoverall.com=20
=20
"In God We Trust"=20
Texas Potters (R)2007=20
Texas Potters and Sculptors (R)2007
Vince Pitelka on sun 19 oct 08
Bill Merrill wrote:
"If you leave the brick uncoated, the kiln will season itself, without
the possibility of drips eventually building up on the kiln, whether it
be a salt kiln or wood kiln. Keeping wood kilns simple is often the
best way to go."
Bill -
That depends on the brick. If they are high alumina like Kruzites, before
they ever become "seasoned" they will take on a lot of sodium vapor
internally and will start to spall. A wash of thinned shino glaze to start
off helps seal the surface from those vapors.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Vince Pitelka on sun 19 oct 08
Kim Overall wrote:
"Regarding the shino liner for salt kilns, what is the opinion that the
liner hard bricks be dipped completely in shino before setting them in
place?=A0 Also, is a drier shino like Woodfire better than an satin =
glossy
shino like the others in that high heat atmosphere?"
Kim -=20
I have never considered the possibility of dipping the bricks in shino, =
and
I do not see any advantage in it. The worst degradation of brick takes
place near the inner surface, and usually manifests as spalling, where a
layer of brick cracks/peels away, often on the underside of the arch. =
So
the inner surface is the one that most benefits from sealing with the =
shino
glaze. I have also never considered the effect of different shino =
glazes in
this application, but I suppose I would choose a drier shino rather than =
a
carbon-trap. =20
- Vince=20
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Hank Murrow on sun 19 oct 08
Dear Vince and Kim;
At the U of Oregon back in the early 70s, we just painted the inside
of the salt kiln each time with aluminum paint...... often the
cheapest one in 5 gallon size at the surplus store. The binders burn
off, leaving an even coating of alumina oxide on the kiln surfaces.
not too hard to do each time, and the life of the kiln was prolonged
a great deal.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
On Oct 19, 2008, at 7:47 AM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> Kim Overall wrote:
> "Regarding the shino liner for salt kilns, what is the opinion that
> the
> liner hard bricks be dipped completely in shino before setting them in
> place? Also, is a drier shino like Woodfire better than an satin
> glossy
> shino like the others in that high heat atmosphere?"
>
> Kim -
> I have never considered the possibility of dipping the bricks in
> shino, and
> I do not see any advantage in it. The worst degradation of brick
> takes
> place near the inner surface, and usually manifests as spalling,
> where a
> layer of brick cracks/peels away, often on the underside of the
> arch. So
> the inner surface is the one that most benefits from sealing with
> the shino
> glaze. I have also never considered the effect of different shino
> glazes in
> this application, but I suppose I would choose a drier shino rather
> than a
> carbon-trap.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Tech University
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Bill Merrill on sun 19 oct 08
If you leave the brick uncoated, the kiln will season itself, without
the possibility of drips eventually building up on the kiln, whether it
be a salt kiln or wood kiln. Keeping wood kilns simple is often the
best way to go.
Bill Merrill
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Hank Murrow
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 10:01 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: He place a kiln in Tennessee...salt/soda brick liners
Dear Vince and Kim;
At the U of Oregon back in the early 70s, we just painted the inside
of the salt kiln each time with aluminum paint...... often the
cheapest one in 5 gallon size at the surplus store. The binders burn
off, leaving an even coating of alumina oxide on the kiln surfaces.
not too hard to do each time, and the life of the kiln was prolonged
a great deal.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
On Oct 19, 2008, at 7:47 AM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> Kim Overall wrote:
> "Regarding the shino liner for salt kilns, what is the opinion that
> the
> liner hard bricks be dipped completely in shino before setting them in
> place? Also, is a drier shino like Woodfire better than an satin
> glossy
> shino like the others in that high heat atmosphere?"
>
> Kim -
> I have never considered the possibility of dipping the bricks in
> shino, and
> I do not see any advantage in it. The worst degradation of brick
> takes
> place near the inner surface, and usually manifests as spalling,
> where a
> layer of brick cracks/peels away, often on the underside of the
> arch. So
> the inner surface is the one that most benefits from sealing with
> the shino
> glaze. I have also never considered the effect of different shino
> glazes in
> this application, but I suppose I would choose a drier shino rather
> than a
> carbon-trap.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Tech University
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
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