Lee Love on thu 23 oct 08
Reduce water content.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://togeika.multiply.com/journal
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
John Rodgers on thu 23 oct 08
Dear Clayfolk,
I am about to undertake something which I have never tried but once -
and the last time I tried - it was a disaster. Slip trailing.
My problem is how to make a trailing slip that won't go flat! Has anyone
any experience with making up a slip that works? One that stands up?
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Mary Driever on fri 24 oct 08
I have been trying that too, need to absorb the water out fast, try using a
piece of muslin over lots of layers of newspaper, then cut out the muslin
when it is leather and fire with the cotton still on, hope it works for you,
I am still working on the idea. using porcelain slip
In a message dated 10/23/2008 8:53:28 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
inua@CHARTER.NET writes:
Dear Clayfolk,
I am about to undertake something which I have never tried but once -
and the last time I tried - it was a disaster. Slip trailing.
My problem is how to make a trailing slip that won't go flat! Has anyone
any experience with making up a slip that works? One that stands up?
Thanks,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
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ooter)
Ivor and Olive Lewis on fri 24 oct 08
Dear John Rodgers,
To get a trailable slip that retains its profile or vertical
topography after it has dried requires a composition that contains a
greater volume of solids than liquid, yet has sufficient fluidity to
flow through a needle or orifice but has a high enough viscosity to
resist the force of gravity that would cause it to flow to a shallow
profile.
You will have to experiment with clay, water and deflocculants to get
optimum properties from your materials. My suggestion is to prepare a
casting slip then allow this to dewater by evaporation until you get a
mixture that will flow well but set rapidly once it contacts the
supporting clay surface.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Frank Gaydos on fri 24 oct 08
John,
I just started slip trailing and heat my platters prior to trailing and the
slip dries instantly! Gotta be careful to not overheat however, especially
the glazed ware. I use the hair dye dispensers with the pointy plastic tips.
Every once in awhile the plastic gets too hot and starts to melt! Last year
someone mentioned a pen or somesuch that will lay down a line...? Go
Phillies!
Frank Gaydos
John Hesselberth on fri 24 oct 08
On Oct 23, 2008, at 11:15 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> My problem is how to make a trailing slip that won't go flat! Has
> anyone
> any experience with making up a slip that works? One that stands up?
Hi John,
The judicious use of Epsom salts should do the trick. Make a
saturated solution. Add it drop by drop to a little of your slip
until you get the characteristics you want.
Regards,
John
John Hesselberth
http://www.masteringglazes.com
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
"I love everything that's old: old friends, old times, old manners,
old books, old wines." Oliver Goldsmith, "She Stoops to Conquer" (1773)
Donna J.S. Causland on fri 24 oct 08
Hi John:
I do alot of tube lining in my glazing.
I make a "paper clay" slip from my casting slip by adding
cellulose insulation fiber. I do this both in low fire and cone 6
porcelain.
I keep a covered tub of the cellulose soaking in water ready for use as
I make small batches at a time. I use a hand held drink blender to chop
up the fiber and mix with the slip. Quick and easy.
This stuff is amazing. I apply with pastry tubes, slip trailers or syringes
and it
keeps it's shape. Also, this is the weird part, it works on greenware or
bisque.
I like the cellulose because it doesn't stink like TP.
Donna Causland
Dillon, CO
June on fri 24 oct 08
Kanjiro Kawai mixed fine grog in with his slip. You can probably=A0see some=
of his raised slip designs if you google his name.=0AI have the mixture ra=
tio somewhere but not accessible at the moment. You can test 25% grog to st=
art and go up to 50% for test purposes. I believe it was somewhere between =
those numbers. =0A=0A=0A=A0Regards,=0AJune=0Ahttp://www.shambhalapottery.co=
m=0Ahttp://shambhalapottery.blogspot.com=0Ahttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/so=
dasaltfiring/ =0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Mary Driever =
=0ATo: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=0ASent: Friday, October =
24, 2008 1:09:14 AM=0ASubject: Re: Slip Trailing that doesn't go flat=0A=0A=
I have been trying that too, need to absorb the water out fast,=A0 try=A0 u=
sing a=0Apiece of muslin over lots of layers of newspaper, then cut out the=
=A0 muslin=0Awhen it is leather and fire with the cotton still on,=A0 hope =
it works=A0 for you,=0AI am still working on the idea.=A0 using porcelain s=
lip=0A=0A=0AIn a message dated 10/23/2008 8:53:28 P.M. Pacific Daylight Tim=
e,=0Ainua@CHARTER.NET writes:=0A=0ADear=A0 Clayfolk,=0A=0AI am about to und=
ertake something which I have never tried=A0 but once -=0Aand the last time=
I tried - it was a disaster. Slip=A0 trailing.=0A=0AMy problem is how to m=
ake a trailing slip that won't go flat!=A0 Has anyone=0Aany experience with=
making up a slip that works? One that stands=A0 up?=0A=0AThanks,=0A=0AJohn=
Rodgers=0AChelsea,=A0 AL=0A=0A=0A**************A Good Credit Score is 700 =
or Above. See yours in just 2 easy=0Asteps!=0A(http://pr.atwola.com/promocl=
k/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=3Dhttp://www.freecreditreport.c=
om/pm/default.aspx?sc=3D668072&hmpgID=3D82&bcd=3Demailf=0Aooter)=0A
Lee Love on fri 24 oct 08
On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 11:09 PM, Mary Driever wrote:
> I have been trying that too, need to absorb the water out fast,
Start with less water. With some slips, it is really difficult to
thicken them quickly, unless you put them on the stove and evaporate
them.
I use slips extensively. When we mix slips we tend to put in as
much water in as we do our glazes. So, measure it out to help avoid
doing this.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://togeika.multiply.com/journal
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
John Rodgers on fri 24 oct 08
Donna,
That sounds really interesting. I will give it a try.
John R
Donna J.S. Causland wrote:
> Hi John:
> I do alot of tube lining in my glazing.
> I make a "paper clay" slip from my casting slip by adding
> cellulose insulation fiber. I do this both in low fire and cone 6
> porcelain.
> I keep a covered tub of the cellulose soaking in water ready for use as
> I make small batches at a time. I use a hand held drink blender to chop
> up the fiber and mix with the slip. Quick and easy.
> This stuff is amazing. I apply with pastry tubes, slip trailers or
> syringes
> and it
> keeps it's shape. Also, this is the weird part, it works on greenware or
> bisque.
> I like the cellulose because it doesn't stink like TP.
>
> Donna Causland
> Dillon, CO
>
>
Vince Pitelka on fri 24 oct 08
John Rodgers wrote:
"I am about to undertake something which I have never tried but once -
and the last time I tried - it was a disaster. Slip trailing.
My problem is how to make a trailing slip that won't go flat! Has anyone
any experience with making up a slip that works? One that stands up?"
John -
I used to do a lot of slip-trailing and feather combing, and if you are
interested you can see examples at
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/gallery/slip%20ware/slip_ware.htm - I
realized that the page still refers to my slip-decorating workshop, and I do
not teach that workshop anymore because I do so little slip-decoration these
days. To teach slip-decoration, you really need to be on top of your game.
Getting the effect you seek is all a matter of slip recipe and consistency.
I always use flocculated decorating slips in order to minimize intermixing
of adjacent colors. Deflocculated slips intermix spontaneously. With a
thin slip applied as a thick ground and with thin slips for trailing, the
trailed layer will settle flat into the ground. To get an appropriate
consistency for that effect, a brush dragged through the container of liquid
slip should leave absolutely no raised "wake" - the slip should seek its own
level. With thicker slips, the trailed slip will leave a raised mark,
depending on the liquidity and thickness of the ground and the consistency
of the slip being trailed. With a thicker trailing slip and a very
thinly-applied slip ground, or trailing with a thicker slip on a
freshly-thrown pot with no slip ground, the trailed line will stand up in
higher relief and will stay there. Go to
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/syllabi-handouts/handouts/slip%20consistency
.htm for a decorating slip consistency chart that provides mixing ratios for
different applications, and go to
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/syllabi-handouts/handouts/decorating%20slip.
htm for my all-temperature decorating slip recipe with suggested oxide
colorant additions. Email any questions.
You must make sure that the trailed slip at least remains bonded to the
surface of the pot. For any high-relief slip trailing, I would always use a
slip with 5% 3134 frit in order to give a strong bond very early in the
firing. Otherwise there is too much chance of lifting and separation.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Mary Driever on sat 25 oct 08
I purchase ready mixed porcelain slip
In a message dated 10/24/2008 4:05:04 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
togeika@CLAYCRAFT.ORG writes:
On Thu, Oct 23, 2008 at 11:09 PM, Mary Driever wrote:
> I have been trying that too, need to absorb the water out fast,
Start with less water. With some slips, it is really difficult to
thicken them quickly, unless you put them on the stove and evaporate
them.
I use slips extensively. When we mix slips we tend to put in as
much water in as we do our glazes. So, measure it out to help avoid
doing this.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://togeika.multiply.com/journal
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf
ooter)
Linda White on sat 25 oct 08
Vince: Thank you so much for sharing your information about slips
and slip consistency. Maybe I've learned why the slip I use peels up
off the clay sometimes! I appreciate your generosity.
Linda White
LickHaven Pottery
Dushore PA
Lee Love on sat 25 oct 08
On Fri, Oct 24, 2008 at 10:45 PM, Mary Driever wrote:
> I purchase ready mixed porcelain slip
For slip casting? That is deflocked. Maybe that is the problem.
Try flocculating it like Vince recommends or mixing up your own and
adding flocculant.
Check out Vince's fine handouts.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://togeika.multiply.com/journal
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Lee Love on sat 25 oct 08
>
> Try flocculating it like Vince recommends or mixing up your own and
> adding flocculant.
>
> Check out Vince's fine handouts.
>
I buy Super White dry claybody for slip. That might work better than
slip casting slip.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://togeika.multiply.com/journal
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
http://claycraft.blogspot.com/
"Let the beauty we love be what we do.
There are hundreds of ways to kneel and kiss the ground." --Rumi
Vince Pitelka on sat 25 oct 08
If anyone has trouble with those clickable links on my previous post, just
remember to always check any website link on an email message or a
discussion list post to see if part of the message is un-highlighted on the
following line. That happens a lot.
To access the handouts you can just go to my website (address below) and
click on "syllabi/handouts" and then click on "handouts/info" and take your
pick.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Vince Pitelka on sat 25 oct 08
Please note that on some of the websites in my post on slip decorating, the
".htm" was abandoned as a cyber-orphan on the following line, so the links
will not be clickable. In order to access the website you need the WHOLE
ADDRESS. Why the f--k does this happen? Why can't a website address appear
as a clickable link without part of the address appearing un-highlighted on
the following line? Considering how long the Internet has been in use, I
would think that this would have been figured out.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Kathy Forer on sun 26 oct 08
An Internet address is no different than any other. Consider
2112 Appalachian Way, Newtown, N
=ACD
(and the rest is broken on the next line). Is it ND or NC? Or even NA?
Unless the software knows how to interpret extended characters and
line feeds they appear just as other characters.
So the issue is one of mime type and line wrapping, similar to the
=A0s and such substituted for members of an extended character set. It
can possibly be addressed in the list software, eliminating linefeed
characters while still allowing line wrap.
Kathy Forer
On Oct 25, 2008, at 8:05 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> Please note that on some of the websites in my post on slip
> decorating, the
> ".htm" was abandoned as a cyber-orphan on the following line, so the
> links
> will not be clickable. In order to access the website you need the
> WHOLE
> ADDRESS. Why the f--k does this happen? Why can't a website
> address appear
> as a clickable link without part of the address appearing un-
> highlighted on
> the following line? Considering how long the Internet has been in
> use, I
> would think that this would have been figured out.
Ivor and Olive Lewis on sun 26 oct 08
Dear Lee Love,
You suggest <your own and adding flocculant.>>
Though this will cause the deflocculated clay to change its
consistency and seem stiffer it is difficult to do successfully. The
trick is to get the flocculating agent evenly and rapidly distributed
through the mass of fluid clay slip before clay gels in the immediate
vicinity of the additive, creating a lumpy curd.
It is possible that Magnesium sulphate, Epsom Salt, may be too
aggressive in its action and Sodium Chloride would be a better option.
However, I still believe deflocculated slip that has been thickened by
evaporation is the better material to use.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
Ron Roy on mon 27 oct 08
Hi John,
I have done a lot of raised slip trailing in the past - you can see some
examples in Mastering Cone 6 Glazes - if you google my name and sort
through you will find some slip decoration under tenmoku - it was a
specialty of mine. Trouble is there is a childrens author with the same
name you will have to sort through his stuff.
I used throwing slip - deflocculated - I tried it without defloccing it and
the lines cracked up. It's tedious the first time - dewater the slip till
it's thick and start adding drops of Darvan - till it goes thin - then add
dry clay to thicken again - add more Darvan - when it no longer goes thin
when adding Darvan you are done. It's easy to tell if it's thick enough -
just squirt some on a paper towel. Keep track of how much clay, water and
Darvan and it will be a lot easier next time.
Let me know if you need more.
RR
>Dear Clayfolk,
>
>I am about to undertake something which I have never tried but once -
>and the last time I tried - it was a disaster. Slip trailing.
>
>My problem is how to make a trailing slip that won't go flat! Has anyone
>any experience with making up a slip that works? One that stands up?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Rodgers
>Chelsea, AL
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
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