Vince Pitelka on fri 22 may 09
Randall Moody wrote:
I am getting together my images to produce cd's for galleries. It seems tha=
t
most all galleries have slightly different requirements as to resolution an=
d
file type. Most prefer .jpg but the resolution is variable. I figure that I
would shoot for medium resolution."
Randall -
Things are settling down regarding what sorts of image files are selected.
In almost all circumstances you are best off sending nothing but JPEGs with
no folders at all, and ABSOLUTELY no proprietary MAC crap from the photo
software on MAC computers. Just JPEGs, nothing else, no PowerPoints, no
TIFFs, just JPEGs. Send them 300 DPI, about 4" on the maximum dimension,
and that will only be about a 1MB file, easy to send as an email attachment=
.
There is nothing more irritating than receiving an application CD for an
exhibition or gallery and having a bunch of unnecessary crap on the CD.
Don't subject the reviewer to that, because it will bite you in the ass.
Make it simple for them. Just send JPEGs no larger than 2MB, and that mean=
s
a 300 DPI file from 4 to 6 inches maximum dimension.
I am chair of the University Art Committee in charge of the gallery on the
main campus at Tennessee Tech. We put out a call-for-entries for all art
media every two years, and we have finally got it down to where we are
absolutely clear about the image requirements - nothing but individual JPEG=
s
on the CDs - no folders, no documents, no other image formats, no
PowerPoints, no PDFs, no proprietary MAC image files, etc. If you have a
MAC, make absolutely sure that you are only loading JPEGs onto the CD. If
we get CDs with any other stuff on the CD or with other image formats, the
applicant is disqualified. If that seems at all severe, imagine yourself i=
n
the position of having to jury 500 applicants.
When applying for an exhibition or responding to a gallery call for entries=
,
NEVER send anything more than what is requested. That is very important.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
jeanette harris on fri 22 may 09
>I am getting together my images to produce cd's for galleries. It seems th=
at
>most all galleries have slightly different requirements as to resolution a=
nd
>file type. Most prefer .jpg but the resolution is variable. I figure that =
I
>would shoot for medium resolution. I was also wondering if anyone would
>recommend using a program such as PowerPoint or should the images just be
>basically individual files? Any help would be much appreciated.
Hey, Randall,
If you have the capability, shoot and export your prints onto your
computer desktop (and then into a file) in both jpeg and tiff. If you
should at a later date want to send the same picture to another
place, you won't have to go through the whole photo and exporting
process again. I use iPhoto for my digitals and in the SAVE mode,
there's a selection that rolls at the bottom of the menu page that
allows you to save in several different formats.
As I think of it now, I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to
make both a jped and a tiff for each photo. hummmmm Would eat a lot
of memory, and I don't know if it would be worth the investment of
time. Maybe your best work only......
I set my camera to shoot pictures really large. As big as my camera
will let me. Highest resolution and as sharp in focus as I can to get
the detail.
That gives you a good master to work from. I save the shots in that
size. I put them in separate files with the iPhoto program. You can
reduce an image, but you can't enlarge it. The quality goes because
you cannot add new pixels into the image. So I figure it's best to
start out with the very best quality I can get.
When you want to export a picture, to a disc, webpage, or document,
you can select how many pixels you want to save them in such as 300,
500, etc. The export program allows you to do this.
I import jpegs into my blog, with a window built into the entry
section that automatically reduces any picture to 300 dpi.
The old Apple iPhoto program lets you pick the precise dimensions in
pixels like: 300 x (whatever other pixel count that is in proportion
with the longest border.) I liked this older program better because
you had this kind of control.
The new iPhoto, that I just got with my new laptop, doesn't seem to
allow all that much hands-on control. Therefore, I may continue to
use my old computer to process photos and just a couple of older
programs when I need those functions.
A way to check the size: When you click on your photo to see is true
or actual size if the handle of a mug, for instance, is filling up
the whole screen, that's too big. I try for the largest image that
will comfortably fill the screen.
Use the click/drag of an image and move it into the disc file. After
you have transferred everything onto the disc, check each image to be
sure it made it onto the disc okay by clicking on each one and
looking at it. I also include a cover sheet from a word file that
lists the images, the dimensions, the process, title, etc. and my
name, address, phone #, etc. onto the entry disc just in case the
paperwork and the disc get separated. When you're satisfied with
everything on the disc, burn it, label it and send it off with
whatever entry paperwork they want..
I usually make a cover page for the disc box with my name and logo on
it, small thumbnails of the shots with the titles so that whoever
gets it doesn't have a problem identifying who sent it and what is on
the disc. I also send a hard copy sheet of paper that gives all the
information on the slides like entry number, title, dimensions,
medium, process, etc. And of course, you send in the entry forms
they require with the disc.
Believe me, people on the receiving end appreciate anything that
makes the handling of your entry easier I've been on that end of that
deal and it's just amazing how the range of condition entries can
arrive in.
--
http://www.jeanetteharrisblog.blogspot.com
http://www.sa-clayartists.org go to Members, H heading
http://www.washingtonpotters.org/members/jeanette harris/wpa jeanette
harris.htm
Lee Love on fri 22 may 09
On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 2:04 PM, Randall Moody wr=
ote:
> I am getting together my images to produce cd's for galleries. It seems t=
hat
> most all galleries have slightly different requirements as to resolution =
and
> file type. Most prefer .jpg but the resolution is variable. I figure that=
I
> would shoot for medium resolution. I was also wondering if anyone would
> recommend using a program such as PowerPoint or should the images just be
> basically individual files? Any help would be much appreciated.
>
Shoot at the highest resolution and then reduce according to what the
person requires. I have never seen a gallery or competition
request powerpoint. Always the graphic files by themselves.
--
--
"The tea ceremony bowl is the ceramic equivalent of a sonnet: a
small-scale, seemingly constricted form that challenges the artist to
go beyond mere technical virtuosity and find an approach that both
satisfies and transcends the conventions." -- Rob Sliberman
Snail Scott on sat 23 may 09
On May 22, 2009, at 6:01 PM, Dan Saultman wrote:
> Presentation CDs are different than a jury CD. Power point might
> work, but what if they can't open the files?
> The best format is Flash. This is viewable on just about every
> browser and allows fade-ins, transitions etc.
Folks with older systems frequently get crashed by
Flash. It's great when it works, but I'd rather keep it
simple - no Flash for me.
If you are doing a presentation in person, on your own
equipment, go ahead. But don't use it to mail a promo
CD to anyone unless they suggest it.
> But again, most viewers want to look at the images at their own pace,
> not the pace you have set in Power Point or Flash...
Never use the function which sets up an automatic
slide-change speed. Just leave it set for manual.
And include separate jpegs anyway.
-Snail
Randall Moody on sat 23 may 09
Thanks to everyone who answered! It was actually more information than what
I got from the galleries I contacted. I shoot with a Nikon D80 and shoot in
RAW format. I do run the images through Photoshop CS3 and have a dedicated
external hard drive (100G) just for my images. I do not manipulate the
images any further than color correction and size.
Vince, you said no .docs on the CD but how do you recommend I attach my cv
(thin as it is) and my artist statement?
--
Randall in Atlanta
Vince Pitelka on mon 25 may 09
Randal Moody wrote:
"Concerning pushing the images through Photoshop. I only do cropping and
color correction. I can do both of these in camera via the menu but it is
easier to use the computer. I think that dismissing any image that has been
run through Photoshop is short sighted."
Randall -
You are correct. Not only is it shortsighted, it is completely unrealistic,
and no one does it. You are expected to run your photos through Photoshop
to crop them and correct the color balance and contrast. That's necessary
with digital photography, and a traditional photographer would do the same
thing in the darkroom. It is true that photographs can be analyzed to see
if they have been altered in Photoshop or some other photo editing software=
,
but no one does that unless they suspect you of some elaborate fakery in
international espionage.
When applying for exhibitions or gallery representation, it is a matter of
honesty to just use Photoshop to make the photograph match the work as
accurately as possible, and to not "touch up" your images so that the image=
s
look better than the work. And of course such a hoax would really bite a
person in the butt when the gallery or exhibition venue sees the actual wor=
k
and compares it to the photographs.
There is still some residual paranoia about this whole "photo-manipulation"
scenario among exhibition venues and galleries, and they sometimes have
statements in their publicity or calls-for-entry saying that manipulated
images will be disqualified. That's just current fashion, and when it come=
s
down to it, it's BS, because they do not know the difference. They are
looking for quality work, and they are not going to be magnifying every
image in order to examine the pixilation for evidence of modification. Who
has the time for that?
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Tony Ferguson on mon 25 may 09
=3D0A=3D09=3D0A=3D09=3D0ABefore anyone gets into a fight 8-))=3DA0=3D0A<---=
---double chin=3D
, big smile
1.=3DA0 Anytime you work=3D0Awith a digital image you MUST work natively.=
=3DA0 Th=3D
is means, if you=3D0Ause Photoshop, Corel, etc. you open the file with this=
p=3D
rogram and=3D0Athen save it in the program's propriety format.=3DA0 Free pr=
ogra=3D
ms=3D0Athat come with your computer are just that--a case of you get what=
=3D0Ay=3D
ou pay for.=3DA0 At the very least, please please please do=3D0Ayourself a =
favo=3D
r and get at least Adobe Photoshop Elements for=3D0Awindows or mac.=3DA0 Fo=
r li=3D
nux, get the Gimp.=3DA0 If you have extra cash=3D0Ato burn and want to have=
the=3D
best of the best, automation, some=3D0Aseriously cool things you can do wi=
th=3D
images that will blow your=3D0Amind, an extensive undo history, get Adobe =
Ph=3D
otoshop CS3 or CS4.=3DA0=3D0AFor applying to show, print mats, etc, Element=
s is=3D
sufficient.
2.=3DA0=3D0AAs you work, make adjustments (color correction, sharpening, et=
c.)=3D
=3D0Aand when you are done, you save it as a NAMEedit1, if you make more=3D=
0Ach=3D
anges, NAMEedit2, etc as you make changes--this way you can=3D0Abacktrack w=
it=3D
hout having to start all over if need be if you really=3D0Amess something u=
p.=3D
=3DA0 This way you have not saved over your=3D0Aoriginal jpeg and whatever =
you =3D
do will be first generation as you are=3D0Aworking natively.=3DA0 Every tim=
e yo=3D
u save over your jpeg (which is=3D0Aa no no) it becomes a next generation.=
=3DA0=3D
Tiff or any other format=3D0Ais really un-necessary.=3DA0 Work natively, w=
hen =3D
you are done, save=3D0Aas jpeg or gif or special format for the web dependi=
ng=3D
on what you are doing, need transparency, create animation, etc.=3DA0 For =
95=3D
% of us, jpeg is all we need.
3.=3DA0=3D0APlease note:=3DA0 this entire time, your original is still pris=
tine=3D
=3D0Aas it was when you first took it.=3DA0 Leave the original alone and=3D=
0Ain a=3D
backup folder in case you need it--off your computer on an=3D0Aexternal ha=
rd=3D
drive.=3DA0 As me what happens when you don't back up=3D0Ayour 100's of ho=
urs =3D
of work and your system crashes and you can't get=3D0Ait back.=3DA0 If you =
are =3D
editing/managing your own images, please please please, get yourself a $90 =
=3D
500+ gig external hard drive as a back up device and save yourself future h=
=3D
eadaches and higher costs.
4.=3DA0 ON RAW,--save your raw files if you shoot in=3D0Araw in the same wa=
y as=3D
I suggested in jpeg--that is, of course, after=3D0Aa lot of tweaking--or n=
ot=3D
.=3DA0 You will figure out your own work=3D0Aflow but there is no substitut=
e fo=3D
r having a folder that says=3D0A"Original Feb Shoot."=3DA0 Raw is mostly ab=
out =3D
tweaking=3D0Ayour photos in ways never imagined, correcting mistakes in the=
o=3D
riginal shoot, AND if you want to print very=3D0ALARGE.=3DA0 Otherwise, wor=
k in=3D
jpeg, its easier.=3DA0 Most people=3D0Acan't tell and don't care.=3DA0 You=
will =3D
however, be able to tell in=3D0Aa large scale you print.=3DA0 Jpeg has arou=
nd 2=3D
56 levels of tonal=3D0Acontrast and Raw has about 4096 which means RAW has =
wa=3D
y more=3D0Ainformation regarding your image and this is evident in a histog=
ra=3D
m=3D0Awhich means more photo geek talk.=3DA0 The levels of tonal contrast=
=3D0Amea=3D
ns your lightest of the lights to the darkest of the darks and=3D0Aeverythi=
ng=3D
in between--this is also related to dynamic range which=3D0Akeeps expandin=
g =3D
as digital photography technology develops and is=3D0Aaltogether another di=
sc=3D
ussion.
There are many paths and how=3D0Aever you get the best image quality, more =
po=3D
wer to you. Like clay, I=3D0Aexplore many many variations to gain understan=
di=3D
ng through=3D0Aexperimentation. As in clay, the proof is in the pudding.=3D=
A0 T=3D
his=3D0Ais what I have learned.=3DA0 As a shameless plug, Dale Neese has=3D=
0Akind=3D
ly organized a 2 day Digital Photography workshop in Texas this=3D0ASeptemb=
er=3D
5, 6 where I will be giving 2 workshops.=3DA0=3D0A
http://www.daleneese.com/index.html
http://www.tonyferguson.net/news.htm
If=3D0Athat doesn't fit your schedule, shoot me an email.=3DA0 I also have=
=3D0Aan=3D
online digital photography course where I teach you how to edit=3D0Acorrec=
t =3D
and multiple ways.
Cheers,
=3D0A=3D0ATony Ferguson
Artist/Educator...Clay,=3D0AWeb, Photo, Video, Digital=3D0A...where the sky=
mee=3D
ts the lake... =3D0A=3D0Ahttp://www.tonyferguson.net
Now=3D0Aoffering Digital Photography Training, Online =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=
=3D0A
Arnold Howard on tue 26 may 09
From: "Vince Pitelka"
> Bottom line, unless you can come up with sound information
> that disproves so
> much of the accepted protocol today, for archival storage
> and stability of
> your most important images it still seems that you are
> best off shooting and
> saving them in RAW or TIFF file formats, and then changing
> them to JPEGs
----------
Is there any advantage in shooting photos in RAW format
instead of TIFF?
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Tony Ferguson on tue 26 may 09
Hey Arnold,
=3D0A
=3D0AThere is nothing better than shooting in RAW if you camera allows, and=
=3D
=3D0Alike I said in my last post, for most people, most people don't need t=
o=3D
=3D0Aworry about it just shoot in jpeg.=3DA0 If your camera's options are T=
iff=3D
=3D0Aand jpeg, shoot in both so you have both.=3DA0 However, after I learne=
d th=3D
e=3D0Avirtues of RAW, I now shoot simultaneously in jpeg and RAW incase I g=
et=3D
=3D0Aan image I want to adjust in a way I can't in the jpeg format.=3DA0 An=
d=3D0A=3D
when people say, "the space..." I say get a larger flash card--they are=3D0=
At=3D
hankfully inexpensive now.
=3D0A
=3D0AWhen I copy my photos to my computer, I make a RAW folder and a jpeg=
=3D0Af=3D
older, label them, etc.=3DA0 The RAW I move to my external hard drive=3D0Ai=
mmed=3D
iately.=3DA0 If I have an image that needs some serious adjustments, I=3D0A=
use =3D
the RAW where one can make just about any adjustments.=3DA0 That said,=3D0A=
I pr=3D
imarly work with the jpeg images because they are easier and less=3D0Atime =
co=3D
nsuming.=3DA0 The RAW are "there" if need them or when I have a=3D0Aphoto s=
how =3D
and need to print large, I can pull the numbers (the jpeg=3D0Aand RAW are n=
um=3D
bered the same) from the RAW folder.=3DA0 Remember, RAW are=3D0Anearly 4000=
lev=3D
els of tonal contrast whereas jpeg is 256.
Cheers,
Tony Ferguson
Artist/Educator...Clay, Web, Photo, Video, Digital
...where the sky meets the lake...=3D20
http://www.tonyferguson.net
Now offering Digital Photography Training, Online=3D20
=3DA0
--- On Tue, 5/26/09, Arnold Howard wrote:
From: Arnold Howard
Subject: Re: cd's, images and resolution
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Tuesday, May 26, 2009, 10:07 AM
From: "Vince Pitelka"
> Bottom line, unless you can come up with sound information
> that disproves so
> much of the accepted protocol today, for archival storage
> and stability of
> your most important images it still seems that you are
> best off shooting and
> saving them in RAW or TIFF file formats, and then changing
> them to JPEGs
----------
Is there any advantage in shooting photos in RAW format
instead of TIFF?
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Randall Moody on tue 26 may 09
On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Arnold Howard wro=
te:
> ----------
> Is there any advantage in shooting photos in RAW format
> instead of TIFF?
>
>
>
I think that it depends on the camera. My Nikon gives me the choice to shoo=
t
JPEG (normal, basic, fine), RAW (normal, basic, fine) or both JPEG and RAW
(normal, basic or fine). My Fuji offers the the choice of JPEG or RAW at
different resolutions.
Good information on JPEG vs. RAW
--
Randall in Atlanta
Vince Pitelka on tue 26 may 09
Arnold Howard asked:
"Is there any advantage in shooting photos in RAW format instead of TIFF?"
Arnold -
Hopefully someone with substantial knowledge about this will be able to
answer your question for both of us. TIFF and RAW formats are both
non-lossy, and it just makes sense to shoot and store your most important
images as TIFF or RAW files. My Nikon DSLR will shoot in RAW, but not in
TIFF. I think that is pretty much the protocol for newer high-end cameras.
Mea said something about RAW and TIFF files using up too much storage space=
,
but that's far less of a problem now. You can purchase accessory external
or internal hard drives in 1 or 2TB sizes for very little money. Costco
currently has a tiny 500GB Western Digital portable hard drive on sale for
less than $100. So storage really is not an issue any more.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Joan Hoyt on wed 27 may 09
In a message dated 5/27/09 1:35:07 PM, mea@GOODELEPHANT.COM writes:
> (just as a side note, Photoshop is a $700 software. It might seem normal
> for a designer
> or photographer, or if your employer will buy it for you, but I don't
> think it makes sense
> to expect everyone to own it.)
>
> Mea
>
Mea,
Photoshop Elements is a good alternative for anyone not doing major
manipulations of photos. It runs about $89.00 usually, and has much more th=
an
the basics. You can look at the adobe site to compare the two programs to
see how they fit your needs. Lightroom 2.0 is also highly recommended by
professional photographers for managing work flow if you keep a lot of phot=
os.
Joan
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