Bill Merrill on thu 23 jul 09
There is a frit, Fusion 69 that using small amounts of it will help with =
=3D
crazing. You can use another brand if you cross refderence with the =3D
Fusion 69. Using high amounts will change your glaze, wso using other =3D
methods of fixing the crazinf may need to be done.
=3D20
Bill
________________________________
From: Clayart on behalf of Ron Roy
Sent: Tue 7/21/2009 5:33 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Misc: Crazing, Navy Blue
Hi Lili,
Actually celadons can be made to not craze - I have 45 year old pots =3D
with
celadon that are not crazed - and I see some in our famous Royal Ontario
Museum from centuries ago that are still not crazed.
Quite a feat considering the technology then - the clay had to be =3D
properly
vitrified to start with or they would be crazed.
RR
On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 12:18 PM, lili krakowski =3D
wrote:
> Certain glazes will craze, no matter what. Is that a true fact? Well, =
=3D
it
> is more like this: some color effects cannot be achieved, not really, =3D
in a
> glaze that is built correctly. Celadons--I am told--ALWAYS craze. =3D
You can
> "fake" that celadon color but a true celadon apparently crazes. It is =
=3D
a bit
> like pizza with everything on it giving people heartburn. If you want
> "everything on it" the tradeoff is heartburn. If you do not want the
> heartburn, skip the "everything." A friend used to say : "Life is a =3D
series
> of unfair choices!" Well, there you have it.
>
> Now glazes that craze will ping--and it is fun to come into a studio =3D
where
> a kiln was unloaded a few hours earlier and listen to the music!
> (Pots are SO talented!)
>
> So if you have a glaze that crazes BUT when you correct the glaze you =3D
loose
> the specific effect you wanted--trade off. Obviously the glaze cannot =
=3D
be
> used for certain purposes; but you might use it for others...
>
> One of the too-little studied aspects of glaze is their--I think this =3D
is
> the correct word--"refraction". We all have seen glazes that puddled =3D
and
> the effect was wonderful, if impractical, and the same glaze applied
> "properly" was plain blah. Part of the total effect of a glaze comes =3D
from
> our seeing through it; its transparency or semi transparency.
>
> So to Lis: the navy glaze might have worked on the body you formerly =3D
used
> because when the clay "was seen" through the glaze that was the =3D
optical
> effect. Now when you look through the same glaze on the new body, you =
=3D
do
> not get that optical effect.
>
> I do not know what the previous body was. Maybe you still have a =3D
sample of
> it? If so make it into a slip, put on test tile, test the good old =3D
navy
> blue on it--and see how it looks.
>
> Otherwise test your navy blue over some slips...also test it over some
> washes. Hopper's "The Ceramic Spectrum" is a great guide to color
> possibilities. As is Constant and Ogden's "The Potter's Palette" =3D
which now
> is so costly it makes my head spin, but your library may be able to =3D
get it
> for you....
>
> Anyway. Many a "glaze effect" actually comes either from the body or =3D
a
> slip underneath the glaze. SO many people knock their heads against =3D
the
> wall trying for a glaze effect by putschkeying with the glaze--when =3D
actually
> its the body/slip beneath the glaze that
> creates the look.
>
>
> Lili Krakowski
> Be of good courage
>
--
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario, Canada
K0K 1H0
| |
|
