Melissa Schooley on sat 29 aug 09
Well, I must say I'm completely confused now.
When adding epsom salts to my clay, I'm only=3D20
adding it to clay (including reclaim) that already=3D20
has NO epsom salts in it, precisely because I would
have no idea how much to add once there's already=3D20
some in the clay. We do have hard water here, so is
that a contributing factor?
I guess I should get a pH kit and test the actual pH
of my clay and my reclaim, and probably even my water.
Also, the reason I began adding the epsom salts in the
first place was to prevent the corrosion to the barrel=3D20
of my pug mill. Even with the epsom salts, there has
been no difference. The porcelain is still sticking
to the metal on the inside (this would be the "new"=3D20
corrosion resistant coated aluminum that Peter Pugger
has). When the porcelain that is stuck to the inside
gets chipped off, it takes the black coating with it,=3D20
exposing the aluminum underneath. So I guess that since
the epsom salts aren't even doing what I had hoped they
would do in preventing the reaction with the aluminum, I'll=3D20
probably stop using them altogether.
Peter Pugger has been very good about all of this. They
called me yesterday to discuss the matter and are looking
into it further.=3D20
In the mean time, I guess I just take lots of deep breaths
and clean out the pug mill once a week.
Thanks so much everyone for all your contributions. I really
appreciate all the help and advice.
Melissa
Melissa Schooley
Raging Bowl Pottery
www.ragingbowlpottery.com
www.ragingbowl.etsy.com
www.ragingbowl.blogspot.com
Handmade Porcelain Celebrating the Art of Fine Craft
Neon-Cat on sat 29 aug 09
Hello Melissa!
=3DC2=3DA0
It seems to me the aluminium is acting normally by forming the slim black l=
=3D
ayer you are seeing. If it comes off while cleaning your pug it will just f=
=3D
orm more. The process is called passivation and this is a natural way in wh=
=3D
ich further corrosion is prevented. Protective layers are only a few atoms =
=3D
thick and the loss of a few will hardly be missed.=3D20
=3DC2=3DA0
Epsom salts will lower pH slightly but in clays it is very hard to get a tr=
=3D
uly accurate pH reading. I=3DE2=3D80=3D99m not sure you even need to mess w=
ith th=3D
is. If pieces of the black layer are not getting into your porcelain why bo=
=3D
ther?=3D20
=3DC2=3DA0
Your pug may not be the cause of your current clay body problems.=3D20
As to the bloat, try a slower and slightly higher initial firing with plent=
=3D
y of ventilation. Perhaps the organic material in one of the porcelain ingr=
=3D
edients is now increased; materials do vary. With all carbon burned out you=
=3D
should have fewer or no bloating issues at rims, etc. The other suggestion=
=3D
s made by list members also seem promising and hopefully one or a combinati=
=3D
on of them will do the trick for you.=3D20
=3DC2=3DA0
Good luck!
=3DC2=3DA0
Marian
Neon-Cat
www.neon-cat.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neon-cat/
(check out the new meltdown photos!)
=3DC2=3DA0
Melissa wrote:
Well, I must say I'm completely confused now.
When adding epsom salts to my clay, I'm only
adding it to clay (including reclaim) that already
has NO epsom salts in it, precisely because I would
have no idea how much to add once there's already
some in the clay. We do have hard water here, so is
that a contributing factor?
I guess I should get a pH kit and test the actual pH
of my clay and my reclaim, and probably even my water.
Also, the reason I began adding the epsom salts in the
first place was to prevent the corrosion to the barrel
of my pug mill. Even with the epsom salts, there has
been no difference. The porcelain is still sticking
to the metal on the inside (this would be the "new"
corrosion resistant coated aluminum that Peter Pugger
has). When the porcelain that is stuck to the inside
gets chipped off, it takes the black coating with it,
exposing the aluminum underneath. So I guess that since
the epsom salts aren't even doing what I had hoped they
would do in preventing the reaction with the aluminum, I'll
probably stop using them altogether.
Peter Pugger has been very good about all of this. They
called me yesterday to discuss the matter and are looking
into it further.
In the mean time, I guess I just take lots of deep breaths
and clean out the pug mill once a week.
Thanks so much everyone for all your contributions. I really
appreciate all the help and advice.
Melissa
Melissa Schooley
Raging Bowl Pottery
www.ragingbowlpottery.com
www.ragingbowl.etsy.com
www.ragingbowl.blogspot.com
=3DC2=3DA0
=3DC2=3DA0
John Goode on sat 29 aug 09
Melissa
I have the vpm 60 and endure the black ring syndrome associated with this
machine obviously not a stainless steel body as thought. I mix clay in it
dry then add the epsom salts to the water that is used to hydrate the clay
usually 45 grams per 50 lb batch.
When I have called the company I talked to three people who had never hear=
d
of this.That was pre NCECA.
All the questions came out and still there is no answer?
Thinking about buying anything from them ever again? This challenge posed
needs to be resolved before even thinking about it esp if they cant even
send out info an a product when asked for it twice.
I also have a bluebird that is very dependable.
The stress of having to make ends meet with clay to satisfy customers and
family is tremendous.
It is only a matter of time till everyone finds the solution and shares it
so the stress level can be normal.
Hang in there! Peter pugger seems to care as they are small and need us too=
.
John Goode
watermarktile.com
handmadeceramictile.com
On Sat, Aug 29, 2009 at 11:59 AM, Melissa Schooley <
melissa@ragingbowlpottery.com> wrote:
> Well, I must say I'm completely confused now.
>
> When adding epsom salts to my clay, I'm only
> adding it to clay (including reclaim) that already
> has NO epsom salts in it, precisely because I would
> have no idea how much to add once there's already
> some in the clay. We do have hard water here, so is
> that a contributing factor?
>
> I guess I should get a pH kit and test the actual pH
> of my clay and my reclaim, and probably even my water.
>
> Also, the reason I began adding the epsom salts in the
> first place was to prevent the corrosion to the barrel
> of my pug mill. Even with the epsom salts, there has
> been no difference. The porcelain is still sticking
> to the metal on the inside (this would be the "new"
> corrosion resistant coated aluminum that Peter Pugger
> has). When the porcelain that is stuck to the inside
> gets chipped off, it takes the black coating with it,
> exposing the aluminum underneath. So I guess that since
> the epsom salts aren't even doing what I had hoped they
> would do in preventing the reaction with the aluminum, I'll
> probably stop using them altogether.
>
> Peter Pugger has been very good about all of this. They
> called me yesterday to discuss the matter and are looking
> into it further.
>
> In the mean time, I guess I just take lots of deep breaths
> and clean out the pug mill once a week.
>
> Thanks so much everyone for all your contributions. I really
> appreciate all the help and advice.
>
> Melissa
>
>
> Melissa Schooley
> Raging Bowl Pottery
> www.ragingbowlpottery.com
> www.ragingbowl.etsy.com
> www.ragingbowl.blogspot.com
>
> Handmade Porcelain Celebrating the Art of Fine Craft
>
gary navarre on sun 30 aug 09
Back in Kalamazoo I worked at Bowers Manufacturing in their new anodizing =
plant and 40% of our business was Mag-Lite. We turned them black and sent t=
hem back for machining the contacts and assembly. Have you seen a well used=
Mag-Lite? I think part of their guarantee was when the finish got worn you=
could send it back to Ontario, California and they re-anodize it for you. =
My intuition tells me even the finer grained porcelain would eventually abr=
ade the anodizing.
Gary Navarre
Navarre Pottery
Navarre Enterprises
Norway, Michigan, USA
http://www.youtube.com/GindaUP
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/
--- On Sun, 8/30/09, ivor & olive lewis wrote:
> From: ivor & olive lewis
> Subject: [Clayart] My patience and my porcelain
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Sunday, August 30, 2009, 1:00 AM
> Corrosion problems with Aluminium
> Alloys can be prevented by a surface
> treatment that generates a coherent, hard, non reactive
> coating on the
> surface using a process called Anodising. This is an
> electrolytic process
> creating a thicker, impervious, tenacious film of Aluminium
> Oxide whose
> hardness promotes resistance to abrasive wear.
>
> Ask if this is the process being used by the manufacturer.
> A recommended
> thickness would e of the order of 40-50 microns.
>
> Regards,
>
ivor & olive lewis on sun 30 aug 09
Corrosion problems with Aluminium Alloys can be prevented by a surface
treatment that generates a coherent, hard, non reactive coating on the
surface using a process called Anodising. This is an electrolytic process
creating a thicker, impervious, tenacious film of Aluminium Oxide whose
hardness promotes resistance to abrasive wear.
Ask if this is the process being used by the manufacturer. A recommended
thickness would e of the order of 40-50 microns.
Regards,
Melissa Schooley on sun 30 aug 09
Thank you Ivor, for that information.
The "corrosion resistant coating" that is currently on the new pugmill
appears to
be some sort of plating. It doesn't look the same as an anodized
coating. It's a=3D20
flat black/grey that's over the entire barrel, inside and out.=3D20
I'll look into that process.=3D20
thanks again,
Melissa
Melissa Schooley
Raging Bowl Pottery
www.ragingbowlpottery.com
www.ragingbowl.etsy.com
www.ragingbowl.blogspot.com
=3D20
Handmade Porcelain Celebrating the Art of Fine Craft
=3D20
=3D20
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: My patience and my porcelain
From: ivor & olive lewis
Date: Sat, August 29, 2009 11:00 pm
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
=3D20
Corrosion problems with Aluminium Alloys can be prevented by a surface
treatment that generates a coherent, hard, non reactive coating on the
surface using a process called Anodising. This is an electrolytic
process
creating a thicker, impervious, tenacious film of Aluminium Oxide whose
hardness promotes resistance to abrasive wear.
=3D20
Ask if this is the process being used by the manufacturer. A
recommended
thickness would e of the order of 40-50 microns.
=3D20
Regards,
Larry Kruzan on sun 30 aug 09
How do your cones look? I was having blistering issuses a couple years =3D
ago that caused all kinds of greif on just two glazes - after I finally =3D
put cones into a load I discovered that I was overfireing by 1/2 cone. =3D
The problem was that the thermocouple was bad - replaced the =3D
thermocouple - problem solved.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
=3D20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Melissa =3D
Schooley
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 12:00 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: My patience and my porcelain
Well, I must say I'm completely confused now.
When adding epsom salts to my clay, I'm only=3D20
adding it to clay (including reclaim) that already=3D20
has NO epsom salts in it, precisely because I would
have no idea how much to add once there's already=3D20
some in the clay. We do have hard water here, so is
that a contributing factor?
I guess I should get a pH kit and test the actual pH
of my clay and my reclaim, and probably even my water.
Also, the reason I began adding the epsom salts in the
first place was to prevent the corrosion to the barrel=3D20
of my pug mill. Even with the epsom salts, there has
been no difference. The porcelain is still sticking
to the metal on the inside (this would be the "new"=3D20
corrosion resistant coated aluminum that Peter Pugger
has). When the porcelain that is stuck to the inside
gets chipped off, it takes the black coating with it,=3D20
exposing the aluminum underneath. So I guess that since
the epsom salts aren't even doing what I had hoped they
would do in preventing the reaction with the aluminum, I'll=3D20
probably stop using them altogether.
Peter Pugger has been very good about all of this. They
called me yesterday to discuss the matter and are looking
into it further.=3D20
In the mean time, I guess I just take lots of deep breaths
and clean out the pug mill once a week.
Thanks so much everyone for all your contributions. I really
appreciate all the help and advice.
Melissa
Melissa Schooley
Raging Bowl Pottery
www.ragingbowlpottery.com
www.ragingbowl.etsy.com
www.ragingbowl.blogspot.com
Handmade Porcelain Celebrating the Art of Fine Craft
John Goode on sun 30 aug 09
Ivor and all
One wonders if this has to be done at the manufacturers shop or at the
studio.
The thought of shipping this 1700 miles each way over the manufacturers
ignorance is appalling.
If anyone ever buys a pugmill they should ask this question to any
manufacturer.
Thanks for your advice
John Goode
watermarktile.com
handmadeceramictile.com
On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 1:00 AM, ivor & olive lewis
wrote:
> Corrosion problems with Aluminium Alloys can be prevented by a surface
> treatment that generates a coherent, hard, non reactive coating on the
> surface using a process called Anodising. This is an electrolytic process
> creating a thicker, impervious, tenacious film of Aluminium Oxide whose
> hardness promotes resistance to abrasive wear.
>
> Ask if this is the process being used by the manufacturer. A recommended
> thickness would e of the order of 40-50 microns.
>
> Regards,
>
Ron Roy on sat 5 sep 09
Hi Melissa,
I think you had better talk to the people you buy your clay from - see if
you can find out if there are any unusual materials in that clay and ask if
they have absorption numbers for different cones - explain your problems -
they may be able to help.
Did you mention the kind of clay you are using and where it came from? It
may be others are using it as well. It may help to solve your problem.
RR
On Sat, Aug 29, 2009 at 12:59 PM, Melissa Schooley <
melissa@ragingbowlpottery.com> wrote:
> Well, I must say I'm completely confused now.
>
> When adding epsom salts to my clay, I'm only
> adding it to clay (including reclaim) that already
> has NO epsom salts in it, precisely because I would
> have no idea how much to add once there's already
> some in the clay. We do have hard water here, so is
> that a contributing factor?
>
> I guess I should get a pH kit and test the actual pH
> of my clay and my reclaim, and probably even my water.
>
> Also, the reason I began adding the epsom salts in the
> first place was to prevent the corrosion to the barrel
> of my pug mill. Even with the epsom salts, there has
> been no difference. The porcelain is still sticking
> to the metal on the inside (this would be the "new"
> corrosion resistant coated aluminum that Peter Pugger
> has). When the porcelain that is stuck to the inside
> gets chipped off, it takes the black coating with it,
> exposing the aluminum underneath. So I guess that since
> the epsom salts aren't even doing what I had hoped they
> would do in preventing the reaction with the aluminum, I'll
> probably stop using them altogether.
>
> Peter Pugger has been very good about all of this. They
> called me yesterday to discuss the matter and are looking
> into it further.
>
> In the mean time, I guess I just take lots of deep breaths
> and clean out the pug mill once a week.
>
> Thanks so much everyone for all your contributions. I really
> appreciate all the help and advice.
>
> Melissa
>
>
> Melissa Schooley
> Raging Bowl Pottery
> www.ragingbowlpottery.com
> www.ragingbowl.etsy.com
> www.ragingbowl.blogspot.com
>
> Handmade Porcelain Celebrating the Art of Fine Craft
>
--
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario, Canada
K0K 1H0
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