SUBSCRIBE clayart Anonymous on wed 13 may 09
Hello---I'm new here.
I started making pots again after an 8 year break----firing to Cone 10 is=
=3D
a
new thing for me. I've tried several Iron Red/Kaki recipes from Britt's b=
=3D
ook
(Bailey's red, Kaki), several from the web, and one that a friend gave
me(Ohata Kaki-recipe below). I've tried thin, medium, thick, etc. Firing =
=3D
in
Electric/oxidation. Most do not "go reddish," instead, they're brown, and=
=3D
sometimes "murky" greenish brown. The Ohata Kaki gets the "leopard spots"=
=3D
and turns out well on the insides of bowls, but looks brown/green/murky o=
=3D
n
the outside.
Reading through topic searches here on the forum helps, but still I don't=
=3D
understand why I'm not getting Iron Red. I use a Envirovent with my kilns=
=3D
,
except for my small test kiln. I fire up to cone 8 the usual way, and
gradually increase---taking 2 hours to reach cone 10. Then I set the
switches on medium (like 4 1/2) for a couple hours, then OFF.
Ohata Kaki version that comes closest to Iron Red for me:
Custer 48.6
Silica 21.6
EPK 6.3
Talc 6.3
Whiting 7.2
Bone Ash 9.9
Red Iron Ox 10
I've tried my test glazes over 5 different stoneware types and a porcelai=
=3D
n
with similar results, colorwise. I'm pretty sure it's an oxidizing
atmosphere---I even leave a peephole open the entire time, and let all th=
=3D
e
fumes escape out a propped lid in the beginning stages.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Calli
Steve Mills on thu 14 may 09
I was taught to use Kaki as a "glaze-on-glaze".=3D20
It is true that on its own it's a murky-brown, but in my experience, used o=
=3D
n top of a glaze with a good gloss surface, such as a good Celadon, it come=
=3D
s alive, and how!=3DA0=3D20
The recipes I use are from Mike Bailey's "Oriental Glazes" book.
Steve
Bath
UK
--- On Thu, 5/14/09, SUBSCRIBE clayart Anonymous wr=
=3D
ote:
From: SUBSCRIBE clayart Anonymous
Subject: Need help with Kaki
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 4:51 AM
Hello---I'm new here.
I started making pots again after an 8 year break----firing to Cone 10 is a
new thing for me. I've tried several Iron Red/Kaki recipes from Britt's boo=
=3D
k
(Bailey's red, Kaki), several from the web, and one that a friend gave
me(Ohata Kaki-recipe below). I've tried thin, medium, thick, etc. Firing in
Electric/oxidation. Most do not "go reddish," instead, they're brown, and
sometimes "murky" greenish brown. The Ohata Kaki gets the "leopard spots"
and turns out well on the insides of bowls, but looks brown/green/murky on
the outside.
Reading through topic searches here on the forum helps, but still I don't
understand why I'm not getting Iron Red. I use a Envirovent with my kilns,
except for my small test kiln. I fire up to cone 8 the usual way, and
gradually increase---taking 2 hours to reach cone 10. Then I set the
switches on medium (like 4 1/2) for a couple hours, then OFF.
Ohata Kaki version that comes closest to Iron Red for me:
Custer 48.6
Silica 21.6
EPK 6.3
Talc 6.3
Whiting 7.2
Bone Ash 9.9
Red Iron Ox 10
I've tried my test glazes over 5 different stoneware types and a porcelain
with similar results, colorwise. I'm pretty sure it's an oxidizing
atmosphere---I even leave a peephole open the entire time, and let all the
fumes escape out a propped lid in the beginning stages.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Calli
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
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