celia hirsh on thu 10 sep 09
Hi,
I've encountered the same problem as Melissa with my pug mill pitting
due to the composition of the porcelain I've been using (Colema's
Porcelain made by Aardvark). It has been a nightmare. First, I had
figure out what was causing these bits of metal to appear in my clay
and second, I tried the changing the PH with Epsom salts and then
vinegar. This hasn't worked and my aluminum is still corroding.
So, I'm ready to change clays, but before I do, here's my question.
Is anyone using a cone 10 white clay from Tucker's Pottery, or Pottery
Supply House in Canada and also using a pug mill without any pitting
issues? I don't want to make the switch if the same problem will occur.
Thanks,
Celia Hirsh
www.hirshpottery.com
Birgit Wright on thu 10 sep 09
Hello Celia=3D3B I too am having this problem with my pugmill=3D2C I have =
also=3D
now the reason why the finish is coming off my new wheelhead=3D2C which i=
d=3D
iscovered happened when I removed the clay pad for holding bats. I had bee=
=3D
n working in a friends studio and at a local pottery school in Owen Sound w=
=3D
hich used red stoneware. My friend uses cone 6 porcelain but his wheels ar=
=3D
e old and broken in for a long time=3D2C and he has been in the habit of re=
cl=3D
aiming by hand. Since mine was not a formal education on pottery (Fine arts=
=3D
Printmaking from sheridan college back in the early 70's)=3D2C this chemis=
tr=3D
y question never came up and was a little surprise when I had a chance to s=
=3D
tart my own studio after 5 years of sharing.=3D20
Is yours a Peter pugger or another brand? Is it time for them to come up=
=3D
with a stainless body for the VPM-9=3D2C and would it be an afordable ret=
ro=3D
fit. I personally don't want to be forced to cone 10=3D2C or to white sto=
nw=3D
are=3D2C although that would be my next choice. how is it to work with=3D2=
C ca=3D
n anyone tell me how different they are to work with. Thanks Birgit=3D20
=3D20
> Date: Thu=3D2C 10 Sep 2009 08:37:11 -0400
> From: hirshpottery@ROGERS.COM
> Subject: Pugmills=3D2C pitting and porcelain
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>=3D20
> Hi=3D2C
>=3D20
> I've encountered the same problem as Melissa with my pug mill pitting
> due to the composition of the porcelain I've been using (Colema's
> Porcelain made by Aardvark). It has been a nightmare. First=3D2C I had
> figure out what was causing these bits of metal to appear in my clay
> and second=3D2C I tried the changing the PH with Epsom salts and then
> vinegar. This hasn't worked and my aluminum is still corroding.
>=3D20
> So=3D2C I'm ready to change clays=3D2C but before I do=3D2C here's my que=
stion.
>=3D20
> Is anyone using a cone 10 white clay from Tucker's Pottery=3D2C or Potter=
y
> Supply House in Canada and also using a pug mill without any pitting
> issues? I don't want to make the switch if the same problem will occur.
>=3D20
> Thanks=3D2C
>=3D20
> Celia Hirsh
> www.hirshpottery.com
_________________________________________________________________
New: Messenger sign-in on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=3D3D9677403=3D
celia hirsh on thu 10 sep 09
Hi Birgit,
I"m curious, have you complained to the manufacturer, or to the
Pottery Supply that sold it to you? Because, everyone I speak to
expresses surprise. It's not that they've never encountered this
problem, but not as often as I would think. I'm using a Bailey, and
they've been helpful, but I'm not sure why they're not including a
warning sign that this can happen. I would have liked to know that
this could happen before I bought it.
I am currently using Cone 10 porcelain, so don't assume that the
change of clay will make the difference.
Also, I have not heard good things about retro-fitting the insides;
whatever coating is applied inevitably comes off.
Celia Hirsh
www.hirshpottery.com
Birgit Wright on thu 10 sep 09
Hi Celia=3D3B I have talked to both Pottery supply house and to peter pugg=
er=3D
and to Melisssa. We both are having hard chunks form from the potassium w=
=3D
hile trying to reclaim dry scraps=3D2C and even if you just put new clay fr=
om=3D
the box in to power wedge it happens. It is the heat created by the fricti=
=3D
on that causes this. PP sent her a new pug body with a coating in it but th=
=3D
e hard chunks pull off the coating.=3D20
=3D20
PSH told me that while the Venco pugmill is stainless it only pugs and de-=
=3D
airs=3D2C the value of the PP is that it will mix any form of clay=3D2C dr=
y=3D2C=3D
powder=3D2C leather hard etc. Which was why I bought it. =3D20
=3D20
The last I heard from PP they were going to work out something out with Mel=
=3D
issa since she complained first. But really If you are having problems wit=
=3D
h cone 10 porcelain then I think I am going to have to seriously look at wh=
=3D
ite stoneware. I really like throwing thin and fine that is why I moved to=
=3D
porcelain. I also do a lot of hand building which generates a lot of scra=
=3D
p. At my stage in life I don't want to waste my hands on reclaiming clay a=
=3D
nd I don't think I can get my head around just throwing it away as someone =
=3D
suggested.=3D20
I will keep watch for any solutions you come up with=3D2C please keep me po=
st=3D
ed.
Thanks=3D2C Birgit
=3D20
=3D20
> Date: Thu=3D2C 10 Sep 2009 15:54:00 -0400
> From: hirshpottery@ROGERS.COM
> Subject: Re: Pugmills=3D2C pitting and porcelain
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>=3D20
> Hi Birgit=3D2C
>=3D20
> I"m curious=3D2C have you complained to the manufacturer=3D2C or to the
> Pottery Supply that sold it to you? Because=3D2C everyone I speak to
> expresses surprise. It's not that they've never encountered this
> problem=3D2C but not as often as I would think. I'm using a Bailey=3D2C a=
nd
> they've been helpful=3D2C but I'm not sure why they're not including a
> warning sign that this can happen. I would have liked to know that
> this could happen before I bought it.
>=3D20
> I am currently using Cone 10 porcelain=3D2C so don't assume that the
> change of clay will make the difference.
>=3D20
> Also=3D2C I have not heard good things about retro-fitting the insides=3D=
3B
> whatever coating is applied inevitably comes off.
>=3D20
> Celia Hirsh
> www.hirshpottery.com
_________________________________________________________________
New! Open Messenger faster on the MSN homepage
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=3D3D9677405=3D
"Pottery By Judy on sun 13 sep 09
Reading the statements from Paul Herman and Vince Pitelka have made
about the ingredients in clay bodies, it brings another light to the
subject of all manufactures listing ingredients For me fighting contact
dermatitis, knowing what is in the clay I use would be a great help in
narrowing down what is causing the outbreaks on the palms of my hands. I
have a known formaldehyde allergy, that is not only in so many lotions,
shampoos and cosmetics, it is also used on some new clothing, paper
products and cardboard. Recently, my hands have started breaking out
again, and although I don't believe its the clay body as I wear nitrile
gloves while working throwing and glazing, I keep coming in contact with
something new that is causing the outbreaks or something hidden that I
cant put my finger on. Manufacturers need to list all chemicals and
ingredients they use in their process regardless if it is clothing, clay
or health and beauty aides. Amounts or percentages would not be
necessary as long as allergans , chemicals and known carcinogens are
listed, basically coming clean.
Jess McKenzie on sun 13 sep 09
Judy
Have a look at:
Contact urticaria caused by latex-free nitrile gloves
IN:
http://www.contractlatex.com/swfmain/pdf/ttcfree.pdf
Sorry.
~joan worley and jess mckenzie
Date sent: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 07:55:31 -0600
Send reply to: "Pottery By Judy <('(..)')>"
From: "Pottery By Judy <('(..)')>"
Subject: Pugmills, pitting and porcelain
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
[ Double-click this line for list subscription options ]
Reading the statements from Paul Herman and Vince Pitelka have
made about the ingredients in clay bodies, it brings another
light to the subject of all manufactures listing ingredients
For me fighting contact dermatitis, knowing what is in the
clay I use would be a great help in narrowing down what is
causing the outbreaks on the palms of my hands. I have a known
formaldehyde allergy, that is not only in so many lotions,
shampoos and cosmetics, it is also used on some new clothing,
paper products and cardboard. Recently, my hands have started
breaking out again, and although I don't believe its the clay
body as I wear nitrile gloves while working throwing and
glazing, I keep coming in contact with something new that is
causing the outbreaks or something hidden that I cant put my
finger on. Manufacturers need to list all chemicals and
ingredients they use in their process regardless if it is
clothing, clay or health and beauty aides. Amounts or
percentages would not be necessary as long as allergans ,
chemicals and known carcinogens are listed, basically coming
clean.
Ron Roy on sun 13 sep 09
Hi Paul,
Not my decision - I just work for Tuckers.
Anyway it's not going to happen - ever - but I have been able to solve most
problems by talking with potters - I don't think it would be the big proble=
m
solver you think it would be.
The best advice I can give to any one is to deal with a clay company that
tests each batch of clay they make - that is the only way to be sure the
natural drift of clay bodies can be dealt with.
It is still important for each potter to test each batch of clay they get -
no mater if a company mixes it or they mix it themselves.
In the mean time - why don't you publish your recipes so that others can
order your clay body from their local mixers? That would help a little and
perhaps encourage others to do the same - and perhaps Vince could do the
same.
RR
On Sat, Sep 12, 2009 at 12:06 AM, Paul Herman w=
rote:
> Hi Celia, and Melissa,
>
> I use an aluminum Peter Pugger for a white stoneware and a brown one,
> and have experienced no pitting, bloating or chunk problems. I love
> that little machine, if one can love machinery.
>
> WARNING-rant to follow.
>
> Something that comes to mind is that that the chunks and bloating
> problems seem to be coming from pre mixed wet clay bodies, and not
> from bodies that are formulated and mixed at the studio. The wet clay
> body makers don't share their recipes with us lowly folk (who ONLY
> supply the skill and the money), so we can't even begin to think about
> the problem. This is something that has always pissed me off. Do the
> clay body makers really think their "SECRET RECIPE" gives them some
> advantage over their competition? I don't. Probably the way they mix
> and package their product has a lot more to do with producing a usable
> material.
>
> Vince, the company that makes Coleman porcelain adds a polymer and who
> knows what else to that body. Open a bag and take a big sniff
> sometime. That ain't clay you're smelling. Probably some soluble
> materials too, don't you think? But you are not allowed to know,
> because they might lose their stupid fantasy of an "ADVANTAGE" over
> their competition.
>
> I have found a way to avoid the problems of "SECRET" premixed clay.
> Make your own. Cut the clay mixers out of the loop unless they publish
> the recipe, and just don't buy their secret mysterious crap. And I am
> calling out the clay body mixers to publish their formulas so we can
> better use their secret products. Come on Dave, come on Jon, come on
> Ron, publish the recipes and quit being such cowards. Dave basically
> told us what is special about their clay, and it's the mixing process,
> which produces a clay with a firing range of FIVE CONES. Beak the ice!
> Cowardice does not befit you clay mixers well, in fact I find it's
> kind of disgusting. If one of you gets brave and publishes, the others
> will feel obliged to follow, maybe.
>
> Because of this very condition, I quit using pre mixed bodies decades
> ago, and boy am I glad I did! If there is a problem with my clay
> bodies, it's relatively easy for me to track down and remedy. With
> premixed clay, it's damn near impossible. You can write to the clay
> maker, you can write your hind end off, but you will get no reasonable
> results. They will not change the clay for you, and if they do change
> it for some secret reason, they won't tell you what they did.
>
> A quote from Celia's post: "Considering the time I've spent on this, the
> hundreds of pounds of garbage clay I now must discard, and the ruined
> work emerging from my glaze kilns, I find this almost laughable."
>
> I'm not laughing. There comes a time when one must "cut one's losses"
> and take back control of one's own work.
>
> Take back the control of your own work! Imagine that. MAKE YOUR OWN
> CLAY! Are you autonomous potters, or are you helpless consumers?
>
> best wishes,
>
> Paul Herman
>
> Great Basin Pottery
> Doyle, California US
> www.greatbasinpottery.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 11, 2009, at 5:06 AM, celia hirsh wrote:
>
>
>> But, back to my original question. Is anyone using a pug mill and a
>> Cone 10 white body, porcelain or stoneware, and having NO problems?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Celia
>>
>
--
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario, Canada
K0K 1H0
Ingeborg Foco on sun 13 sep 09
> Paul Herman said"
> >
> > I have found a way to avoid the problems of "SECRET" premixed clay.
> > Make your own. Cut the clay mixers out of the loop unless they publish
> > the recipe, and just don't buy their secret mysterious crap.
Paul,
Your comments are well taken. I have often wished and wanted to mix my own
clay but....it always comes down to another piece of machinery that I have
to purchase on top of the pug mill that I already own. Where do I stash th=
e
mixer and how much does it cost to buy one? Other than the benefit of
knowing your own body, is there ultimately a savings? I think boxed clay
has about 20% water so I know I am paying to have water trucked in. But
does it make sense economically to make your own?
I mixed a small quantity of clay once, a recipe given to me by Wally
Schwab. It was wonderful to use and throw. It didn't need ageing and once
mixed, was ready to use. It had a great feel and was wonderful to throw
with. I am presently going thru the same questioning because the last ton =
I
purchased had some problems.....It's not the first time either. The clay
supplier found nothing wrong and so here I am once again stuck.
What do you mix with and how much do you mix at a time? Do you store large
quantities and age your clay?
Sincerely,
Ingeborg
http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
Paul Herman on sun 13 sep 09
Hi Ingeborg,
I'm sure it doesn't make sense economically for me to make my own
clay, and I can't recommend it on those grounds. The pros can mix a
ton in less time than I take to make 50 pounds probably. I use a Peter
Pugger VPM 30 and it cost a bundle, just over 4k some years ago. I
blend the dry clay in a cement mixer (25 lbs at a time) and then put
35 lbs in the Pugger with a measured amount of water. It makes
wonderful de-aired clay that throws beautifully. I have a big back
room for dry clay storage, As Vince noted. One of the nice things
about dry clay is it never goes bad or gets hard while you aren't
paying attention. But it is WAY more work to make one's own.
One of Vince's points was that even if the clay makers did get brave
and publish their recipes, very few potters would take the recipe and
start making their own clay because it's too much work and mess. I
suppose some of their clay mixing competition might rip them off. Of
my circle of wood firing potter friends that fire here, only one other
makes his own clay. So it really is an activity for fanatics and
control freaks I guess. One of the best parts for me is that I can
make subtle changes in any of my clays as the mood strikes me. It's
easy to change colors and textures and glaze fit. If I'm unhappy with
some pre-mixed clay, I have the choice of trying some other mystery
material and seeing if I happen to like that one. That just kind of
sticks in my craw. So I kicked the clay makers off the bus, about 33
years ago.
However, I DO recommend you make up some more of Wally Schwab's clay
body that you liked so much.
Best wishes,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
www.greatbasinpottery.com/
On Sep 13, 2009, at 11:18 AM, Ingeborg Foco wrote:
>
> Paul,
>
> Your comments are well taken. I have often wished and wanted to mix
> my own
> clay but....it always comes down to another piece of machinery that
> I have
> to purchase on top of the pug mill that I already own. Where do I
> stash the
> mixer and how much does it cost to buy one? Other than the benefit
> of
> knowing your own body, is there ultimately a savings? I think boxed
> clay
> has about 20% water so I know I am paying to have water trucked in.
> But
> does it make sense economically to make your own?
>
> I mixed a small quantity of clay once, a recipe given to me by Wally
> Schwab. It was wonderful to use and throw. It didn't need ageing
> and once
> mixed, was ready to use. It had a great feel and was wonderful to
> throw
> with. I am presently going thru the same questioning because the
> last ton I
> purchased had some problems.....It's not the first time either. The
> clay
> supplier found nothing wrong and so here I am once again stuck.
>
> What do you mix with and how much do you mix at a time? Do you
> store large
> quantities and age your clay?
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Ingeborg
>
> http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
Michael Wendt on sun 13 sep 09
Mixing your own clay need not take a lot of time or cost a
lot of money. I built a small lab mixer 15 years ago out of
stainless steel scrap from the local paper mill. Since it is
designed to mix the clay under a vacuum, it produces 50 LB
batches of the highest quality clay possible in a footprint
no larger than a Brent potter's wheel.
see: http://www.wendtpottery.com/deairmixer.htm
The real reason mixing your own clay shines is it puts you
in control of things like softness, texture, color and other
desirable properties.
Units like this are better than pug mills because they mix
in a vacuum for 15-20 minutes per batch, getting virtually
all the air out of the clay which lowers cracking losses and
increases plasticity dramatically.
Additionally, you can recycle clay better because a batch
unit allows you to get uniform properties throughout while I
have found a pugmill requires several loops while adding dry
clay to get the consistency relatively even.
Downside: you still have to wedge the clay. That's why I am
still a fan of the Peter Pugger design since it operates
much the same as my mixer but when reversed, extrudes the
clay out of the barrel for use.
I make the following proposal:
Bring me a Peter Pugger and I will build a stainless steel
mix chamber and nozzle for it as well as the roll away
cleaning cart system that lets you take the machine apart
and clean it easier.
I realize not everyone wants to mix their own clay so I also
sell mixed clay on demand anywhere in the US 48, Alaska and
Hawaii for the same flat rate PLUS
you can use the same recipe I use at your end if you prefer
to buy locally.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Lewiston, Idaho
Ingeborg Foco on sun 13 sep 09
> Hi Paul,
>
I would agree that even if people knew the SECRET of boxed clays they would
still buy them boxed. That's the hard part about understanding the
secrecy. As for other companies knocking off their recipes, well, we all
just admitted it is clay and this and that. So....who cares they all know
that and if they wanted to hire Ron, he could probably figure it out in
great detail.
As for Wally, when he gave me his recipe (a very simple recipe) I asked hi=
s
permission if I could give the recipe to a clay company to have it mixed
for me. His comment was sure but you're now back to boxed clay since you
have lost control over the process. True.
I appreciate your honesty saying making your own is way more time
consuming. Everyone makes it sound so romantic. Not having the
equipment/space and thinking of the time spent, I usually put up with the B=
S
of boxed clay like I am right at this moment testing three new boxed
bodies. Then too, I think you are much younger than me and most likely hav=
e
a lot more energy :). It does, however, cost me a few bucks to have a ton
of clay trucked in by a semi and dropped onto my parking lot where I then
have to haul it into the studio box by box...not a fun job in the blisterin=
g
heat and humidity of SW Florida. If I bought 50# bags of chemicals I could
drive 2.5 hours to St. Petersburg (one way) and pick up the required number
of bags needed to mix my own. That doesn't sound economical either. Livin=
g
out on an island in the middle of nowhere is the main problem.
We have a lot of natural beauty and I guess that's why we moved here.
Seeing Eagles is a regular daily occurrence. Dolphins swim, fish and play
in front of our house and occasionally the dolphins fish down the canal
where my studio sits. Manatees swim close by and do their mating in one
of the lagoons not far from the house. I can fish right off the dock. A
variety of wading birds concregate in the water filled ditches and bathe in
our open pool. But when it comes to buying undies or clay, well, not much
around within close driving distance.
Life's a bitch or is it a beach!
Ingeborg
One of Vince's points was that even if the clay makers did get brave and
publish their recipes, very few potters would take the recipe and start
making their own clay because it's too much work and mess. I suppose some o=
f
their clay mixing competition might rip them off. Of my circle of wood
firing potter friends that fire here, only one other makes his own clay. So
it really is an activity for fanatics and control freaks I guess. One of th=
e
best parts for me is that I can make subtle changes in any of my clays as
the mood strikes me. It's easy to change colors and textures and glaze fit.
If I'm unhappy with some pre-mixed clay, I have the choice of trying some
other mystery material and seeing if I happen to like that one. That just
kind of sticks in my craw. So I kicked the clay makers off the bus, about 3=
3
years ago.
>
> However, I DO recommend you make up some more of Wally Schwab's clay body
> that you liked so much.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Paul Herman
>
> Great Basin Pottery
> Doyle, California US
> www.greatbasinpottery.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 13, 2009, at 11:18 AM, Ingeborg Foco wrote:
>
>
> Paul,
>
> Your comments are well taken. I have often wished and wanted to mix my o=
wn
> clay but....it always comes down to another piece of machinery that I hav=
e
> to purchase on top of the pug mill that I already own. Where do I stash
> the
> mixer and how much does it cost to buy one? Other than the benefit of
> knowing your own body, is there ultimately a savings? I think boxed clay
> has about 20% water so I know I am paying to have water trucked in. But
> does it make sense economically to make your own?
>
> I mixed a small quantity of clay once, a recipe given to me by Wally
> Schwab. It was wonderful to use and throw. It didn't need ageing and on=
ce
> mixed, was ready to use. It had a great feel and was wonderful to throw
> with. I am presently going thru the same questioning because the last to=
n
> I
> purchased had some problems.....It's not the first time either. The clay
> supplier found nothing wrong and so here I am once again stuck.
>
> What do you mix with and how much do you mix at a time? Do you store lar=
ge
> quantities and age your clay?
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Ingeborg
>
> http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
>
>
>
--
Sincerely,
Ingeborg
http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
Neon-Cat on sun 13 sep 09
Regarding the problem pug -- are the pug and circuit wired and grounded pro=
=3D
perly and working correctly? Small stray currents (those flowing outside no=
=3D
rmal channels) can induce metal fatigue, pitting, corrosion, and eventual f=
=3D
racture or failure. A small fault can sometimes be hard to detect and won=
=3D
=3DE2=3D80=3D99t trip a breaker or give outwardly dramatic signs like shock=
s, spa=3D
rks, arcing, or other signs. Weld tacks might be visible upon inspection. T=
=3D
his might be worth checking if the problem is encountered on every run rega=
=3D
rdless of clay body.=3D20
As to clay body faults as a possible chemical culprit, I'm with Paul -- it'=
=3D
s pointless to keep guessing about causes and remedies when we're missing i=
=3D
mportant clues by not having the clay body ingredients.=3D20
Sorry you all are having these problems and I wish you a speedy "recovery".=
=3D
But it sure is making me feel grateful I have only pure and perfect native=
=3D
clay to work, no chemicals, and no pug (although the cute new little power=
=3D
wedger from Peter Pugger did tug a little at my heart strings). I've been =
=3D
reading about materials processing and the array of chemicals that go into =
=3D
making up some of our ceramic materials and clay bodies and it's like readi=
=3D
ng about an environmental disaster. Eye-opening to say the least even if I =
=3D
do exaggerate just a bit.=3D20
Marian=3D20
Neon-Cat
Des & Jan Howard on mon 14 sep 09
Ron
White body
local kaolin 51
local rhyolite 47
silica 2
Unity form.
Na2O 0.28 Al2O3 3.97 SiO2 19.55
K2O 0.60 TiO2 0.12
MgO 0.10 Fe2O3 0.04
CaO 0.03
Generic materials
plastic kaolin 55
potash feldspar 25
silica 20
Grey body
local volcanic ash 60
local kaolin 30
local altered rhyolite 10
Unity form.
Na2O 0.14 Al2O3 6.61 SiO2 27.21
K2O 0.55 TiO2 0.10
MgO 0.30 Fe2O3 0.22
CaO 0.02
Generic materials
plastic kaolin 77
potash feldspar 11
silica 13
The grey recipe is unlikely to work with generic
materials because the form of the minerals in the
ingredients produces the nature of the body.
I don't think the problem is in the varying recipes
used, but in the additives used to promote or alleviate
characteristics of ingredients. To alter pH in certain
Oz clays Ivan McMeekin recommended "...only 1cc of 10N
hydrochloric acid per gallon of slip of average pint
weight". He said this amount would lessen its
corrosiveness!!??
Check out the old usage of the expression 'to
sophisticate'.
Des
Ron Roy wrote:
> In the mean time - why don't you publish your recipes so that others can
> order your clay body from their local mixers? That would help a little an=
d
> perhaps encourage others to do the same - and perhaps Vince could do the
> same.
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
Dave Drake on tue 15 sep 09
My Blue Bird is all stainless until the end where the nozzle is. The
compaction nozzle does pit, but I haven't had any "bits" come out.=3D20=3D2=
0
PP claims its the end all for mixers + puggers. I've had too many
professional shops say that they simply do not mix the hard chunks. Hard=
=3D
chunks must be slaked as with any mixer. Secondly, their pound/hr claims =
=3D
are
a dream. I don't like a company that makes claims to sell their product
that simply are not true. Buyer beware--DD
Ingeborg Foco on tue 15 sep 09
I have a Bluebird 440V which I purchased in l980 or l981. Regardless, I
have had it for a long time and it has served me well. I have replaced the
vacuum pump motor and some other things; ball bearing twice and of course
the spider gears and some other things inside the vacuum chamber. I wouldn'=
t
know what I would do if it went "Kaput" and totally died.
My barrel is aluminum and the auger is stainless. Unfortunately, my barrel
is badly pitted and at some point in the near future some of the pits will
make a real hole. Presently, it isn't a problem. The pits fill up with cla=
y
and the extrusion comes out smooth.
I know you can send it in to have it refurbished and supposedly it will be
like new. It is quite costly and I'm not sure it's worth the expense and
hassle of crating and shipping it from Florida to Colorado. I may try to
give it some more life by pouring epoxy into the pits/holes. Will it hold
up, a good guess. In the meantime, I keep my fingers crossed that it will
run another 20 years.
Sincerely,
Ingeborg
http://www.thepottersworkshop.com
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