Kelly Savino on tue 15 sep 09
I'm happy to say I have a nice batch of private students coming to my studi=
o, every day of the week. A few are new to clay but most are already workin=
g on wheels elsewhere, and looking to improve their skills and pots one-on-=
one.
Unfortunately, I almost ran out of bats today! I have always had enough aro=
und, but now it looks like I need to reinvest some dollars and buy more.
I have just a few plastibats (which are fine, and reliable, but take up a l=
ot of shelf space) and the brown CI bats with the waffled backs (nice and l=
ight, but when I wash them in the rain barrel's basin and then rack them, t=
he guck in the back waffles marks up the clean fronts.)
I have made myself several plywood bats in the past, including one with a d=
rop-in spot for removable square ceramic tiles, but they are cumbersome and=
take up a lot of space, and take too long to dry. I have some nice masonit=
e bats I got from Phil P, and I use them myself, but student work is awfull=
y wet and stays wrapped for a week between visits, so they would get soggy.
When trimming and glazing cycles around it will free up some bats, but it s=
till seems like time to re-equip, especially as I have room for more studen=
ts.
I'm looking for low maintenance, a good deal, a student-friendly design and=
something that won't warp!
Since clayart is the "consumer's report" for all things ceramic, I'm tossin=
g it out to you.
Suggestions?
Yours
Kelly in Ohio... teaching at the college, the guild, and in my own studio..=
. not sure which I like best. Usually the one I'm doing at that moment!
http://www.primalpotter.com (website)
http://primalmommy.wordpress.com (blog)
http://www.primalpotter.etsy.com (store)
John Britt on wed 16 sep 09
Kelly,
Two thoughts:=3D20
Have them bring their own bats. They take much better care of them when=3D2=
0=3D
they have bought them.
I also use the Pure and Simple bat system (particularly for plates) and i=
=3D
t is a=3D20
great and cheap way to make lots of bats. You cast them with plaster and =
=3D
I=3D20
think you can get about 20 - 30 bats from a bag of #1 Pottery Plaster.
John Britt
http://ncclayclub.blogspot.com
Randall Moody on wed 16 sep 09
Has anyone tried Hardibacker for their bats? I know that it is hard on the
saw blades and dusty when cutting but the center's studio has a few ware
boards made of it and they seem to work very well.
--
Randall in Atlanta
Rikki Gill on wed 16 sep 09
Hi Kelly,
Why don't you just go to Goodwill, and buy some heavy duty, used pie plates
and/or layer pans, buy some plaster and make some new bats. I desperately
need to do that myself.
Just be careful to spray some form of mold release into the pans. My bats
are very old now, but still work fine.
Best,
Rikki
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly Savino"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: Favorite bats?
> I'm happy to say I have a nice batch of private students coming to my
> studio, every day of the week. A few are new to clay but most are already
> working on wheels elsewhere, and looking to improve their skills and pots
> one-on-one.
>
> Unfortunately, I almost ran out of bats today! I have always had enough
> around, but now it looks like I need to reinvest some dollars and buy
> more.
>
> I have just a few plastibats (which are fine, and reliable, but take up a
> lot of shelf space) and the brown CI bats with the waffled backs (nice an=
d
> light, but when I wash them in the rain barrel's basin and then rack them=
,
> the guck in the back waffles marks up the clean fronts.)
>
> I have made myself several plywood bats in the past, including one with a
> drop-in spot for removable square ceramic tiles, but they are cumbersome
> and take up a lot of space, and take too long to dry. I have some nice
> masonite bats I got from Phil P, and I use them myself, but student work
> is awfully wet and stays wrapped for a week between visits, so they would
> get soggy.
>
> When trimming and glazing cycles around it will free up some bats, but it
> still seems like time to re-equip, especially as I have room for more
> students.
>
> I'm looking for low maintenance, a good deal, a student-friendly design
> and something that won't warp!
>
> Since clayart is the "consumer's report" for all things ceramic, I'm
> tossing it out to you.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Yours
> Kelly in Ohio... teaching at the college, the guild, and in my own
> studio... not sure which I like best. Usually the one I'm doing at that
> moment!
>
>
> http://www.primalpotter.com (website)
> http://primalmommy.wordpress.com (blog)
> http://www.primalpotter.etsy.com (store)
Lorraine Pierce on wed 16 sep 09
Kelly I cannot sing the praises of the new to me WonderBat from Rocky
Mountain WoodMasters, LTD. A friend came home from a Val Cushing workshop
where he was enthusiastically using one and I have seen a video of Nan
Rothwell also with one on her wheelhead. They are beautifully crafted from =
a
brown phenolic board, and act rather like plaster to use, but do not chip
etc.or warp. The pin holes are lined with a rubber like insert.They are
about 1/2"thick.
I did not like the plastic bats that came with a little Aspire I purchase=
d
as an additional wheel and I ordered a custom made 10" bat for it ($7.75,
drilled for the unique Aspire) and am now very,very pleased with the
performance. Their cheapest bat is 8"round at $6.50 and they make them up t=
o
24"round! Also adapters and inserts. squares etc.
It seems to be a family owned cabinetry business; the owner took a clay
course, was hooked and this sideline is the outcome! They are in Colorado
and I have no business interest in the company; But it is wonderful to deal
with intelligent knowing craftsmen on the phone. the number is 303-471-1426=
.
If I chose to use canvas or tarpaper bats I can apply them to this bat and
not remove my pins.I can also cut off small pots,after I firm them up with
my hairdryer...I work with very soft clay these days. "-many ways to skin =
a
cat."Lori Pierce in Orange Park Fl.
On Tue, Sep 15, 2009 at 11:51 PM, Kelly Savino
wrote:
> I'm happy to say I have a nice batch of private students coming to my
> studio, every day of the week. A few are new to clay but most are already
> working on wheels elsewhere, and looking to improve their skills and pots
> one-on-one.
>
> Unfortunately, I almost ran out of bats today! I have always had enough
> around, but now it looks like I need to reinvest some dollars and buy mor=
e.
>
> I have just a few plastibats (which are fine, and reliable, but take up a
> lot of shelf space) and the brown CI bats with the waffled backs (nice an=
d
> light, but when I wash them in the rain barrel's basin and then rack them=
,
> the guck in the back waffles marks up the clean fronts.)
>
> I have made myself several plywood bats in the past, including one with a
> drop-in spot for removable square ceramic tiles, but they are cumbersome =
and
> take up a lot of space, and take too long to dry. I have some nice masoni=
te
> bats I got from Phil P, and I use them myself, but student work is awfull=
y
> wet and stays wrapped for a week between visits, so they would get soggy.
>
> When trimming and glazing cycles around it will free up some bats, but it
> still seems like time to re-equip, especially as I have room for more
> students.
>
> I'm looking for low maintenance, a good deal, a student-friendly design a=
nd
> something that won't warp!
>
> Since clayart is the "consumer's report" for all things ceramic, I'm
> tossing it out to you.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Yours
> Kelly in Ohio... teaching at the college, the guild, and in my own
> studio... not sure which I like best. Usually the one I'm doing at that
> moment!
>
>
> http://www.primalpotter.com (website)
> http://primalmommy.wordpress.com (blog)
> http://www.primalpotter.etsy.com (store)
>
Doug Trott on wed 16 sep 09
Go to your local home depot/lowes/menards and pick up a bunch of their
cheapest 6" or 8" tiles. Cost you maybe 60 cents each.
Doug
On Tue, Sep 15, 2009 at 10:51 PM, Kelly Savino
wrote:
> ...
>
> I'm looking for low maintenance, a good deal, a student-friendly design a=
nd
> something that won't warp!
>
> Since clayart is the "consumer's report" for all things ceramic, I'm
> tossing it out to you.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Yours
> Kelly in Ohio... teaching at the college, the guild, and in my own
> studio... not sure which I like best. Usually the one I'm doing at that
> moment!
>
>
> http://www.primalpotter.com (website)
> http://primalmommy.wordpress.com (blog)
> http://www.primalpotter.etsy.com (store)
>
Patty on wed 16 sep 09
I love those brown CI bats with the waffle backs, only I use the square
ones. They have holes for two different bat pin spaceings and take up a lo=
t
less room than the round ones. Kelly, to avoid the backs marking up the
fronts when stacked place them "back to back and belly to belly". Square
bats are distracting at first and watch out for fingers on the wheel when
those corners come around. I adjusted to them quickly, the space saved is
enormous and they never roll off the rack.
Patty Kaliher
Lis Allison on wed 16 sep 09
On Wednesday 16 September 2009, Rikki Gill wrote:
> Just be careful to spray some form of mold release into the pans. My
> bats are very old now, but still work fine.
Spray oils for cooking work very well as mold releasing agents and are
non-toxic and easy to clean up.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
www.Pine-Ridge-Studio.blogspot.com
William & Susan Schran User on wed 16 sep 09
On 9/15/09 11:51 PM, "Kelly Savino" wrote:
> I'm looking for low maintenance, a good deal, a student-friendly design a=
nd
> something that won't warp!
> Since clayart is the "consumer's report" for all things ceramic, I'm toss=
ing
> it out to you.
> Suggestions?
Kelly,
What make the most sense in your situation where space issues and longevity
are needed are the systems where a round bat that is attached by bat pins
has a 6" square cut out to accommodate a 6" square manufactured tiles.
Like this:
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Phoenix Rising Farm on wed 16 sep 09
I love mine. I made a bunch of 14 inchers years ago.
Almost indestructible, clean easily, freeze proof, wick
moisture almost as good as plaster (pots pop right off
after about an hour.)
No, they are not easy to cut, but would I ever go back to
those plastic things, particle board, plywood? HAIL no!
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Randall Moody wrote:
> Has anyone tried Hardibacker for their bats? I know that it is hard on th=
e
> saw blades and dusty when cutting but the center's studio has a few ware
> boards made of it and they seem to work very well.
>
>
>
> --
> Randall in Atlanta
>
>
Vince Pitelka on wed 16 sep 09
Kelly Savino wrote:
"I'm looking for low maintenance, a good deal, a student-friendly design =
=3D
and something that won't warp!"
Kelly -=3D20
Leaving pots wrapped up in plastic on a bat for long periods of time =3D
rules out many options. We have plywood bats sealed with marine spar =3D
varnish, and Medex MDF bats sealed with nothing, and both are still in =3D
excellent condition after many years of heavy use. We made them =3D
ourselves, with just a bandsaw and a drillpress and some simple jigs =3D
that are described in the "Make your own tools" section at the back of =3D
my book. The whole process is explained there. After the bats are cut =3D
and the bat-pin holes drilled, we place each one on the wheel, start the =
=3D
wheel, and bevel the upper edge with a sanding disk on an angle grinder. =
=3D
=3D20
Medex is waterproof 1/2" MDF, and needs no added finish, but if a pot is =
=3D
left on a Medex bat for a long period of time, the bat will warp. We =3D
have never had one really break down, even after being left in the damp =3D
box or under plastic for months, abandoned by someone who forgot about =3D
it. =3D20
For student work such as you describe, you could also purchase 4'x8' =3D
sheets of 1/4" PVC and make your own, but all that plastic dust would be =
=3D
pretty obnoxious. I guess that the Medex dust isn't much better.
You have to do some searching to find Medex. It is produced =3D
specifically for use in outdoor signs and other such applications. You =3D
should be able to find it in any big city. We had the Medex shipped up =3D
from a specialty lumber supplier in north Florida, but it was still a =3D
real bargain, considering that you get 48 12" bats out of each 4x8 =3D
sheet. =3D20
Personally, I do not like plastic bats except for the CI bats that are =3D
less shiny on the surface, and I have never cared for plaster bats. The =
=3D
1/2" Medex bats are by far the best I have ever found in 40 years of =3D
serious clayworking.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Bonnie Staffel on thu 17 sep 09
Kelly, one of the lessons you could teach all of your students would be =3D
to
show them how to remove a pot from the wheelhead or bat and place it on =3D
a
ware board. If you don't know the process, this is as how I learned to =3D
do
it.=3D20
Always make a bevel cut starting about 1/2 to 3/4" high at the base of =3D
the
pot with the wooden bevel tool, wire under the pot, best done while =3D
slowly
rotating to get the seashell pattern, remove the waste using the needle
tool, which leaves a fingertip wide undercut in order to lift it easily =3D
onto
a ware board. Spread the fingers on both hands and use the second and =3D
third
fingers V shape palm side up to place under the bevel.
If the newly thrown pot is a bowl or wide form, just cut a piece of =3D
paper
wider than the pot and place on the rim which will hold the form in its =3D
nice
(?) round shape while lifting and placing on the ware board. This =3D
method
would save you the expense of buying new bats.
This is a time proven method used by many potters. If there are any
questions, email or ask me via a Clayart post. I believe that I have
demonstrated this on my DVD's.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
Russel Fouts on thu 17 sep 09
Kelly,
When we were learning to throw, we were also taught to throw directly
on the wheelhead and taught how to lift most pots off with our hands.
Mainly the technique is to cut the piece off the wheelhead and then
pick it up by cupping your hands around the pot conforming your hands
to the shape of the pot
For instance, you rarely need a bat for a mug or anything relatively
cylindrical up to about 8 inches in diameter.
We learned to take bottle shapes, even fairly large, rounded ones off
by using a piece of newspaper to seal the opening, trapping air
inside and then lifting with the above method.
Lay the piece of newspaper over the opening and then run your finger
around the top side over the edge of the opening using the moisture
in the clay to dampen the paper and make the seal.
If you leave it on, can also help keep the opening round as it dries.
It's a useful skill and could save a lot of bats.
I've seen people take plates and bowls off with their hands as well
but that's trickier.
Then have the student's put their pieces on 'their' board and cover
it with plastic.
I also like John's idea of them buying their own bats.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
http://www.mypots.com
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