Linda Mccaleb on wed 16 sep 09
=3DA0 Dear ClayFolk,=3D0A=3DA0 Mayby my bats are getting old. They wobble w=
hen I =3D
turn the wheel and center. They don't seem to wobble when I raise the sides=
=3D
, so I'm throwing some lopsided sides. How do I keep the bat from wobbling?=
=3D
I have pins 10 inches apart and the bats have holes to fit inside of them.=
=3D
I've tried a shammi, but it still wobbles when I center. What am I doing w=
=3D
rong?=3D0A=3DA0 Thank you,=3D0A=3DA0 Linda=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Snail Scott on wed 16 sep 09
On Sep 16, 2009, at 6:42 AM, Linda Mccaleb wrote:
> =3DA0 Dear ClayFolk,
> =3DA0 Mayby my bats are getting old. They wobble when I turn the wheel =
=3D
and=3D20
> center...
Yep. All the ones where I teach are like that.
Are yours the flat-backed bats, like ours?
If so, you can share our solution: smear a
dollop of slip on the wheelhead before
putting the bat on. The force of pushing down
before centering will stick it on nicely. (The
same method is used to attach bats without
bat pins, so yo could just give up the pins,
but they do make it easy to re-center stuff
for further work.)
Another option: stuff the holes with just a little
bit of paste epoxy, cover the bat pins with
a thin film of grease, and set the bat in place.
After the epoxy has set, you have all-new
tightly fitted holes.
-Snail
Jennifer Boyer on wed 16 sep 09
Try getting a new set of bat pins. They get thinner with use and
wobbles start.
On Sep 16, 2009, at 7:42 AM, Linda Mccaleb wrote:
> Dear ClayFolk,
> Mayby my bats are getting old. They wobble when I turn the wheel
> and center. They don't seem to wobble when I raise the sides, so I'm
> throwing some lopsided sides. How do I keep the bat from wobbling? I
> have pins 10 inches apart and the bats have holes to fit inside of
> them. I've tried a shammi, but it still wobbles when I center. What
> am I doing wrong?
> Thank you,
> Linda
>
>
>
***************************
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT
thistlehillpottery.com
jboyerdesign.com
artisanshand.com
***************************
Jess McKenzie on wed 16 sep 09
Our new bats--masonite bought for about $5--work fine, except
for one with one hole drilled about 1/32" off. Using the
bigger hammer method, we got it to work, but we know it'll rip
out when we pry it off.
We're only newbies (very) but we did notice the tiny hole in
the middle, obviously used to lay out the two existing holes.
We thought we'd use our own compass, lay out the original
circle, and use our cheap drill press to drill a few pairs of
holes 180 deg apart. Then we could use new pairs each time a
hole turned 'oval.'
Is that a bad idea?
~joan and jess in Sequim, WA
On Sep 16, 2009, at 6:42 AM, Linda Mccaleb wrote:
> =3DA0 Dear ClayFolk,
> =3DA0 Mayby my bats are getting old. They wobble when I turn the wheel
> and center...
Smail responded:
... Are yours the flat-backed bats, like ours?
If so, you can share our solution: smear a
dollop of slip on the wheelhead before
putting the bat on. The force of pushing down
before centering will stick it on nicely.
...
Another option: stuff the holes with just a little
bit of paste epoxy, cover the bat pins with
a thin film of grease, and set the bat in place.
After the epoxy has set, you have all-new
tightly fitted holes.
-Snail
Ellen Currans on wed 16 sep 09
About half of my masonite bats (all 35 years old at least)
have two sets of holes drilled in them. When we bought a
a second wheel (a Pacifica 400 some years ago) the bat
pin holes were drilled differently than the holes in our
older CI wheel. My husband simply drilled new holes in the
bats so now my bats fit both wheel heads, and I have
never noticed any problem with having a couple extra
holes in the bat.
I agree with John Britt that the best solution for Kelly is
to have her students bring their own bats. They won't
need more than half a dozen and they will take better
care of them if they are their own. Be sure they put
their names on them! If you want to deal with plaster
they could also spend some class time making plaster bats.
Knowing how to work with plaster is a good skill to
have.
I started using the tarpaper bats when I was taking classes
at Portland State and there were never any bats to be
found. That is another cheap solution for students. You
could buy one of those short rolls of l5 lb tarpaper and
send each student as much as they want to make as
many bats as they need.
Ellen Currans
-----Original Message-----
From: Jess McKenzie
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2009 7:47 am
Subject: Re: worn bats
Our new bats--masonite bought for about $5--work fine, except
for one with one=3D20
hole drilled about 1/32" off. Using the
bigger hammer method, we got it to work, but we know it'll rip
out when we pry it off.
We're only newbies (very) but we did notice the tiny hole in
the middle, obviously used to lay out the two existing holes.
We thought we'd use our own compass, lay out the original
circle, and use our cheap drill press to drill a few pairs of
holes 180 deg apart. Then we could use new pairs each time a
hole turned 'oval.'
Is that a bad idea?
~joan and jess in Sequim, WA
On Sep 16, 2009, at 6:42 AM, Linda Mccaleb wrote:
> =3DC2=3DA0 Dear ClayFolk,
> =3DC2=3DA0 Mayby my bats are getting old. They wobble when I turn the whe=
el
> and center...
Smail responded:
... Are yours the flat-backed bats, like ours?
If so, you can share our solution: smear a
dollop of slip on the wheelhead before
putting the bat on. The force of pushing down
before centering will stick it on nicely.
...
Another option: stuff the holes with just a little
bit of paste epoxy, cover the bat pins with
a thin film of grease, and set the bat in place.
After the epoxy has set, you have all-new
tightly fitted holes.
-Snail
Lorraine Pierce on wed 16 sep 09
WORN BATS..I also agree that asking the students to bring their own bats is
a very wise move however I remember one class where that was done to the
furious vocal dismay of a student who had already spent more than she could
afford. Be forwarned Kelly.
My first formal ceramic class started with a brown bag of measured plaster
at each student's place, one aluminum pie plate, and one mixing bowl, When
we left that day our newly made bats were drying on the old fashioned
monster radiators. This was a Boston University college class in
Occupational Therapy...still would work...cheap too. Lori Pierce in
Florida.
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 11:25 AM, Ellen Currans wrote:
> About half of my masonite bats (all 35 years old at least)
> have two sets of holes drilled in them. When we bought a
> a second wheel (a Pacifica 400 some years ago) the bat
> pin holes were drilled differently than the holes in our
> older CI wheel. My husband simply drilled new holes in the
> bats so now my bats fit both wheel heads, and I have
> never noticed any problem with having a couple extra
> holes in the bat.
>
> I agree with John Britt that the best solution for Kelly is
> to have her students bring their own bats. They won't
> need more than half a dozen and they will take better
> care of them if they are their own. Be sure they put
> their names on them! If you want to deal with plaster
> they could also spend some class time making plaster bats.
> Knowing how to work with plaster is a good skill to
> have.
>
> I started using the tarpaper bats when I was taking classes
> at Portland State and there were never any bats to be
> found. That is another cheap solution for students. You
> could buy one of those short rolls of l5 lb tarpaper and
> send each student as much as they want to make as
> many bats as they need.
>
>
> Ellen Currans
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jess McKenzie
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2009 7:47 am
> Subject: Re: worn bats
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Our new bats--masonite bought for about $5--work fine, except
> for one with one
> hole drilled about 1/32" off. Using the
> bigger hammer method, we got it to work, but we know it'll rip
> out when we pry it off.
>
> We're only newbies (very) but we did notice the tiny hole in
> the middle, obviously used to lay out the two existing holes.
> We thought we'd use our own compass, lay out the original
> circle, and use our cheap drill press to drill a few pairs of
> holes 180 deg apart. Then we could use new pairs each time a
> hole turned 'oval.'
>
> Is that a bad idea?
>
> ~joan and jess in Sequim, WA
>
> On Sep 16, 2009, at 6:42 AM, Linda Mccaleb wrote:
>
> > Dear ClayFolk,
> > Mayby my bats are getting old. They wobble when I turn the wheel
> > and center...
>
> Smail responded:
> ... Are yours the flat-backed bats, like ours?
> If so, you can share our solution: smear a
> dollop of slip on the wheelhead before
> putting the bat on. The force of pushing down
> before centering will stick it on nicely.
> ...
> Another option: stuff the holes with just a little
> bit of paste epoxy, cover the bat pins with
> a thin film of grease, and set the bat in place.
> After the epoxy has set, you have all-new
> tightly fitted holes.
>
> -Snail
>
Bonnie Staffel on thu 17 sep 09
To keep my life simple, I have never used the pins. We cut our own =3D
exterior
tempered Masonite bats years ago and when in use, I would throw a thick
donut form on the wheel head and place the bat on that. I keep the donut
covered with a wet cloth and plastic overnight so that it is ready every =
=3D
day
for a throwing session. A little patience is needed to replace it on the
donut if you need to add or attach additional work, but using this =3D
method,
my bats are about as good as new after many years. My bats are oiled =3D
with
motor oil every time the dry clay starts to look light.=3D20
By the way, when I was in a friend's studio I have used popular plastic =3D
bats
with the web backing and they have warped.=3D20
Bonnie Staffel
=3D20
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
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