DJ Brewer on sat 19 sep 09
I have a chance to get a Skutt Kilnmaster 1027 single phase, cone 10.
It's from the owner who bought it 4 years ago, but was only able to use
it the first year due to health reasons. It's been in her shed in
storage since then. Seems that kilns get purchased often by hobbyists
whose interest wanes before the kiln does!
She says its pretty much in mint condition. Does anyone have any tips on
what you should do when buying a kiln from someone -- besides plug it
in? I feel like a noob buying a used car.
DJ
Snail Scott on sun 20 sep 09
On Sep 19, 2009, at 10:04 PM, DJ Brewer wrote:
> Does anyone have any tips on
> what you should do when buying a kiln from someone -- besides plug it
> in?
By all means, plug it in, let it heat for about
ten minutes on high, then check the elements
for even heating. The top and bottom elements
on that model are heavier-duty, so will take longer
to heat, but will glow more brightly in the end. The
thing to watch for is patchy black zones. Even so,
elements are consumables and you'll have to
replace then someday, so even if they are bad,
just negotiate the equivalent value off the price.
The other thing to look for is damaged bricks.
Hairline cracks are normal and almost unavoidable,
but beware of big cracks in the lid, and chunks
missing from the lip of the element channels.
Bricks, like elements, are replaceable, and not
too tough to do with that model, so don't let them
scare you off; it's just another negotiating point.
The thermocouple should not show too much
deterioration, either, but like everything else,
it's replaceable. Really, there's nothing that can
go wrong that isn't repairable. Such defects
should merely affect what you are willing to pay.
-Snail
Mary Starosta on sun 20 sep 09
DJ,
VISUAL inspection can go along way. Look at bricks,elements,even open up
the back board if you can an peek at the wiring and insulation there.
Elements will look rather new if not used much, bricks will be in good
shape, not much cracking from blow ups in the kiln. Bottom of kiln may hav=
e
slight cracking but nothing BIG and no holes in the bottom. All pieces fit
together "tight" including the lid.
That being said BUYER BE WARE always a good motto. If it's a killer deal,
and you can replace parts for less than NEW....give it a try.
Look at what they cost new in your area,plus shipping. See if you can get =
a
techie out from your supplier to help you test, most likely after purchase,
and wire it up,etc. Plus what that costs.
Always be prepared, with more money set aside, for replacement parts , that
you didin't think you would have to replace.
Good Luck, I LOVE my BIG BERTHA (skutt 1027 automatic)
Mary Starosta
Colorado Potter
http://marystarosta.wordpress.com/
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 9:04 PM, DJ Brewer wrote:
> I have a chance to get a Skutt Kilnmaster 1027 single phase, cone 10.
> It's from the owner who bought it 4 years ago, but was only able to use
> it the first year due to health reasons. It's been in her shed in
> storage since then. Seems that kilns get purchased often by hobbyists
> whose interest wanes before the kiln does!
>
> She says its pretty much in mint condition. Does anyone have any tips on
> what you should do when buying a kiln from someone -- besides plug it
> in? I feel like a noob buying a used car.
>
> DJ
>
Dawn Kleinman on sun 20 sep 09
I had bought a used kiln also, my 1st one.
He said it worked but it had sat around for a while. Took his word for it. =
I
fired it empty. Yep, it went on. Then I did a bisque fire. Took 13
hours....hhmmmm. Put new elements and relay switches on it. It then became =
a
"new" kiln. Under $100. The kiln I bought, btw, was $350 and that was about
4 years ago. I think I did pretty good.
He also had given me some shelves, posts, stains, & chemicals.
Good luck
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 11:04 PM, DJ Brewer wrote:
> I have a chance to get a Skutt Kilnmaster 1027 single phase, cone 10.
> It's from the owner who bought it 4 years ago, but was only able to use
> it the first year due to health reasons. It's been in her shed in
> storage since then. Seems that kilns get purchased often by hobbyists
> whose interest wanes before the kiln does!
>
> She says its pretty much in mint condition. Does anyone have any tips on
> what you should do when buying a kiln from someone -- besides plug it
> in? I feel like a noob buying a used car.
>
> DJ
>
--
www.DawnPottery.home.comcast.net
www.DawnPottery.etsy.com
Arnold Howard on mon 21 sep 09
From: "DJ Brewer"
Does anyone have any tips on
> what you should do when buying a kiln from someone --
> besides plug it
> in? I feel like a noob buying a used car.
------------
I would get down and look under the kiln. Has the firebrick
floor been gouged by sliding it roughly across the stand?
Ask the owner if she kept a firing log book. Anyone who
takes firing notes is the type that would take good care of
the kiln.
Look for signs of excessive rust. That indicates that wet
bisque was fired or that the kiln was stored in a humid
area. That is hard on an electric kiln.
The best indication of the care that the kiln received is
the condition of the firebricks. A dropped lid will show
cracks near the hinge. Has a shelf banged into the walls?
Check the thermocouple. Has a shelf hit it?
Fire the kiln for a few minutes to make sure the elements,
thermocouple, and controller are okay.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
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