Dinah Snipes Steveni on fri 30 oct 09
Hi Clayarters=3D20
I'd like to second May's suggestion=3DC2=3DA0that Hyplas ball clay=3DC2=3DA=
0is a go=3D
od sub for OM4 and vice versa. =3DC2=3DA0Maybe Jim from Bath Pottery will w=
ade =3D
in with a "why this is so".Hyplas is=3DC2=3DA0what we used for years and ye=
ars =3D
at ^8/9 ox.=3D20
When I was researching=3DC2=3DA0OM4 from my Seattle Pottery Supply raw mate=
rial=3D
s list, I was able to research ball clays on line. Useful exercise.=3D20
I am going to have another go at ^6 in a few days. I tried to be clever by =
=3D
following certain very well documented and highly touted potter-authors' fi=
=3D
ring schedule at ^6 ox=3DC2=3DA0which was disappointing. So, now on to Mach=
II.=3D
Let my whinging tale be salutary for those of you who don't test at variou=
=3D
s temps with various bodies. I've merely eliminated one strand of enquiry. =
=3D
Use Orton cones to verify your heat work which I did. So the highly touted =
=3D
firing schedule has perhaps had some soak time left out.... What are others=
=3D
' experiences is using firing schedules as an initial road map?=3D20
=3DC2=3DA0=3D20
Dinah=3D20
http://www.dinahsnipessteveni.com=3D20
http://www.dianthusceramics.blogspot.com=3D20
http://www.skagitartiststogether.com=3D20
Steve Mills on fri 30 oct 09
I did respond to May's post, but it hasn't appeared on Clayart yet as far a=
s
I know!
Hyplas as we knew it is no more; as the UK Tile makers have purchased ALL
production of it.
It is still listed, but is in fact a substitute which bears more than a
passing resemblance to WBB's Hi-Mod ND, and behaves quite differently in
some areas.
What made HP71 so unusual was it formed the foundation of the majority of
all white stoneware clays in the UK.
It could also be used as a slip without any additions at any temperature on
any clay!
However as a white slip for stoneware use, a bit of opacifier was needed, a=
s
on its own it became translucent at high temperatures.
UK Clay makers have got round the problem now, but it caused some headaches
initially
I have a comparative analysis if needed.
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 5:12 AM, Dinah Snipes Steveni <
jd.steveni@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi Clayarters
>
>
>
> I'd like to second May's suggestion that Hyplas ball clay is a good sub f=
or
> OM4 and vice versa. Maybe Jim from Bath Pottery will wade in with a "why
> this is so".Hyplas is what we used for years and years at ^8/9 ox.
>
>
>
> When I was researching OM4 from my Seattle Pottery Supply raw materials
> list, I was able to research ball clays on line. Useful exercise.
>
>
>
> I am going to have another go at ^6 in a few days. I tried to be clever b=
y
> following certain very well documented and highly touted potter-authors'
> firing schedule at ^6 ox which was disappointing. So, now on to Mach II. =
Let
> my whinging tale be salutary for those of you who don't test at various
> temps with various bodies. I've merely eliminated one strand of enquiry. =
Use
> Orton cones to verify your heat work which I did. So the highly touted
> firing schedule has perhaps had some soak time left out.... What are othe=
rs'
> experiences is using firing schedules as an initial road map?
>
>
>
>
> Dinah
> http://www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
> http://www.dianthusceramics.blogspot.com
> http://www.skagitartiststogether.com
>
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
May Luk on sat 31 oct 09
Hello Steve;
Thanks for the update and the added information. No wonder I used to make
slip with Hyplas 71 by itself and it worked on both earthenware and
stoneware clay and it worked gloriously.
At any rate, I have found that there is no quick way to "translate" recipes
cross continents. They never look the same, naturally, and adjustments are
always required. If it is easy, then everybody will be doing it, innit?
Not that it means anything after a glaze is fired, OM-4 feels very greasy
when cleaning up.
Best Regards
May
Brooklyn NY
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 7:47 PM, Steve Mills <
original.mudslinger@googlemail.com> wrote:
> I did respond to May's post, but it hasn't appeared on Clayart yet as far
> as
> I know!
>
> Hyplas as we knew it is no more; as the UK Tile makers have purchased ALL
> production of it.
> It is still listed, but is in fact a substitute which bears more than a
> passing resemblance to WBB's Hi-Mod ND, and behaves quite differently in
> some areas.
>
> What made HP71 so unusual was it formed the foundation of the majority of
> all white stoneware clays in the UK.
> It could also be used as a slip without any additions at any temperature =
on
> any clay!
> However as a white slip for stoneware use, a bit of opacifier was needed,
> as
> on its own it became translucent at high temperatures.
>
> UK Clay makers have got round the problem now, but it caused some headach=
es
> initially
>
> I have a comparative analysis if needed.
>
> On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 5:12 AM, Dinah Snipes Steveni <
> jd.steveni@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Hi Clayarters
> >
> >
> >
> > I'd like to second May's suggestion that Hyplas ball clay is a good sub
> for
> > OM4 and vice versa. Maybe Jim from Bath Pottery will wade in with a "w=
hy
> > this is so".Hyplas is what we used for years and years at ^8/9 ox.
> >
> >
> >
> > When I was researching OM4 from my Seattle Pottery Supply raw materials
> > list, I was able to research ball clays on line. Useful exercise.
> >
> >
> >
> > I am going to have another go at ^6 in a few days. I tried to be clever
> by
> > following certain very well documented and highly touted potter-authors=
'
> > firing schedule at ^6 ox which was disappointing. So, now on to Mach II=
.
> Let
> > my whinging tale be salutary for those of you who don't test at various
> > temps with various bodies. I've merely eliminated one strand of enquiry=
.
> Use
> > Orton cones to verify your heat work which I did. So the highly touted
> > firing schedule has perhaps had some soak time left out.... What are
> others'
> > experiences is using firing schedules as an initial road map?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dinah
> > http://www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
> > http://www.dianthusceramics.blogspot.com
> > http://www.skagitartiststogether.com
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
> www.mudslinger.me.uk
>
--
http://twitter.com/MayLuk
http://www.flickr.com/groups/handmade_mugs/
Ron Roy on sat 7 nov 09
Hi Dinah,
All I need is an analysis of what clay you care to use - even a Kaolin - an=
d
I can calculate a recipe to duplicate that glaze. It will only take a few
minutes - be happy to do it
RR
On Fri, Oct 30, 2009 at 12:12 AM, Dinah Snipes Steveni <
jd.steveni@comcast.net> wrote:
> Hi Clayarters
>
>
>
> I'd like to second May's suggestion that Hyplas ball clay is a good sub f=
or
> OM4 and vice versa. Maybe Jim from Bath Pottery will wade in with a "why
> this is so".Hyplas is what we used for years and years at ^8/9 ox.
>
>
>
> When I was researching OM4 from my Seattle Pottery Supply raw materials
> list, I was able to research ball clays on line. Useful exercise.
>
>
>
> I am going to have another go at ^6 in a few days. I tried to be clever b=
y
> following certain very well documented and highly touted potter-authors'
> firing schedule at ^6 ox which was disappointing. So, now on to Mach II. =
Let
> my whinging tale be salutary for those of you who don't test at various
> temps with various bodies. I've merely eliminated one strand of enquiry. =
Use
> Orton cones to verify your heat work which I did. So the highly touted
> firing schedule has perhaps had some soak time left out.... What are othe=
rs'
> experiences is using firing schedules as an initial road map?
>
>
>
>
> Dinah
> http://www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
> http://www.dianthusceramics.blogspot.com
> http://www.skagitartiststogether.com
>
--
Ron Roy
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario, Canada
K0K 1H0
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